1870 .] 
363 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
best kept in cellars, mangels and beets are equally 
well stored iu pits in tbe open ground where it is 
dry. The pits should have abundant ventilation 
provided by bundles of straw or drain tiles set in 
the tops, which may be for the most part removed 
when the weather becomes severe. 
Tobacco is liable to injury by hanging too close ; 
and there is no little temptation, as it dries some¬ 
what, to crowd it to make more room. It is best 
for it to hang closer than at first, so that the wind 
shall not have too free a sweep through it, for 
thus many of the dry leaves may be broken, and 
too rapid drying is undesirable. On windy days 
close many of the shutters, and when it rains, have 
all shut up. Tobacco sheds are often very handy 
places to store corn fodder in, but this must never 
be done to the injury of the crop. 
Com Husking should take place as soon as the 
grain is bard. Look to the stooks and see that 
none are partly overthrown by the wind, and that 
no ears lie on the ground where they will become 
musty, or perhaps grow. Save no ears for seed 
which are not of medium size, fair, even, of the 
standard color, and borne at least two on the stalk. 
The sooner corn is garnered, the fewer rats, field 
mice, and crows you keep as boarders. 
Soiling Crops .—Where the winters are not more 
severe than on Long Island, and southward on the 
coast, and inland west of the southern line of Penn¬ 
sylvania, we think milkmen would do well to try 
Winter Rape, Kale, and Winter Vetch, or Tare; 
sown early in the month, we are inclined to think 
they will all be found to give excellent early forage 
on heavy land, iu good tilth, and well drained. 
They are highly esteemed in Germany, and the 
seed may doubtless be obtained in small quantities 
of our best seedsmen. 
Winter Crain .—It is rather late, but not too late 
for wheat, if the ground is in first-rate order, not too 
heavy, and if we have rain enough. The earlier rye 
is sown this month, the better—no variety is superi¬ 
or to the New Jersey White. If sowing he unavoid¬ 
ably delayed, apply a fine compost of well-rotted 
and mixed hen manure, or of guano mixed with 
fine earth. Stable manure which has been mingled 
with dry earth while being collected, or with saw¬ 
dust, is equally good, if used in proportionate 
quantity. This dressing should be harrowed in for 
wheat at the rate of about 250 pounds of Peruvian 
guano, or strong hen manure compost, to the acre, 
at the time of sowing; ior rye, 150 pounds would 
probably do. Wheat and rye may still be sown for 
soiling. Sow double the quantity and enrich highly. 
Plowing .—Do all the fall plowing possible. Even 
plow for corn if the laud is heavy or very weedy. 
Weeds.—No weeds that have ripened their seed 
should be thrown to hogs now. Give them sods, 
etc., to work over. Cut weeds, when wet, with the 
scythe, and move them gently into heaps or wind¬ 
rows away from dry grass offences, and, when dry, 
burn them. Biennial weeds, which will blossom 
next year, mulleins, thistles, teasels, and multitudes 
of perennial ones, may be easily detected in the dry 
grass and cut up with a hoe or spade. 
Muck digging will furnish employment for hands 
not occupied with more important work, and 
Braining and ditching fall into the same category. 
Animals of all kinds should be prepared for win¬ 
ter while the weather is mild, yet frosty enough to 
give them sharp appetites. A judicious use of tur¬ 
nip tops, cabbages which do not head well, green 
pumpkins and squashes, with nubbins and mouldy 
ears of corn, will save more valuable fodder. 
Horses at pasture will need no other protection 
than a shed, if they have enough to eat. 
Beeves should be warmly stabled, and fed well with 
ground feed, if possible, steamed. 
Milch Cows get little good in the pastures, and 
should be out but a few hours daily, unless it is 
more'important to save fodder thau to have milk. 
Young Cattle may have all the range they desire ; 
but it is well to feed them something daily, roots, 
corn, pumpkins, or a “mess” of ground feed; to 
get them in good condition before cold weather. 
Sheep .—The rams are put with the ewes for March 
lambs. Fattening sheep should be pushed forward 
and ripened off rapidly, if they are not to be win¬ 
tered. Secure the stock for wintering in as good 
condition as possible, being more careful to have 
healthy sheep than to have fat ones. 
Swine grow and fatten very fast in October. The 
cold weather of next month will check them if they 
are not already fat. Feed charcoal and some wood- 
ashes frequently; give pure water until they become 
fat; after that withhold water altogether, except 
what they get in their semi liquid, cooked feed. 
Poultry .-—Give more or less meat, pork scraps, 
etc., to help fowls through with their moulting. 
Wash henneries with carbolic soap; whitewash and 
provide dry soil and ashes for dusting when wet 
weather comes, as it probably will some time. 
Vermin .—-Wage a perpetual war against them in 
barns and out-buildings with traps, eats, and dogs. 
Work iri the Horticultural Departments. 
The gathering of crops and the preparations for 
the approach of cold weather, make October one of 
the busiest months. The days, it is true, are short¬ 
er, but the weather is usually so glorious that one 
can do more work than under the oppressive heat 
of the longer summer days. The soil is usually in 
the finest condition for working, and it can be pre¬ 
pared to the best advantage at this season for the 
fall or spring planting of trees. A notice in large 
type attached to a nurseryman’s catalogue, has just 
caught our eye; as it quite coincides with what we 
have frequently enforced, we give it: “ Send your 
orders for Bulbs, Trees, Plants, Vines, etc., for fall 
planting, Now, and thus avoid the deiay usual in 
the busy packing season—you cannot be too early, 
but may be too late.” 
Orchard, and Nursery. 
Apples .—The abundance of the crop in most local¬ 
ities renders it especially necessary to send only 
selected fruit to market, if satisfactory prices are 
looked for. Hand-pick and barrel carefully. Late 
varieties to be stored Should be kept as cool as pos¬ 
sible. Make poor fruit into 
Cider and Vinegar , as this is the most profitable 
way of disposing of it. Cider-making is usually de¬ 
ferred until cooler weather, as it is better when 
the fermentation goes on slowly. Perishable fruit 
may be ground up and pressed for vinegar at once. 
Pears .—The unusually warm and dry summer has, 
in many eases, caused the late varieties to mature 
earlier than usual. This may affect their keeping- 
qualities. They must be kept at as low a temper¬ 
ature as possible. Do not mix varieties ; and store 
all in such a manner that they may be readily in¬ 
spected from time to time. 
Planting of all except stone fruits, is advisable in 
those localities where the autumns are mild. The 
soil is in much better condition than in spring, the 
trees are usually more promptly procured from the 
nurseries, and the work is not so apt to be hurried. 
Prepare the land and stake the places for the trees, 
so as to be ready to put them out as soon as they 
arrive. In planting an orchard, put trees of the 
same variety together, for greater convenience in 
gathering the fruit. In planting, see that the 
Labels attached by the nurseryman are not so 
tightly wired as to injure the tree. Do not trust 
to labels, but make a record of the position of the 
trees at planting time. 
Nursery Stock may be trimmed into shape. Good 
cultivators manure between the rows of young trees. 
Fruit Garden. 
Planting may be done in all localities where the 
season is mild; we except strawberries, which are 
now better left until spring. 
Grapes , except for wine, win nave oeen mostly 
gathered. Fruit to be kept until winter should be 
in a cool, dry room, packed in small boxes. Isa¬ 
bella, Catawba, Diana, and Iona, are good keepers. 
Concord very poor, and Delaware nearly as bad, 
though this will keep for weeks if carefully handled. 
Grape-vines are to be pruned when the leaves have 
fallen. In the vineyards it is customary to give 
a shallow plowing to cover up the leaves and kill 
the late weeds. Tender varieties are to be removed 
from the trellis and covered with earth. Vines may 
he planted; draw up the earth around them and 
mulch with leaves. Make cuttings, which are to be 
tied in bundles and buried in the cellar or out-doors 
where the water will not stand. 
Strawberries .—If plants have been struck in pots 
they may be set now, but otherwise spring plant¬ 
ing is preferable. 
Blackberries and Raspberries may be set out, cut¬ 
ting the stems off to the ground. The nurserymen 
send out canes with the roots, but these are of no 
use save to serve as a handle in planting. These 
are readily propagated from pieces of the root, 2 or 
3 inches long, which are to be packed in a box with 
alternate layers of earth; bury the box where 
water will not stand, and out of the reacli of frost. 
Currants and Gooseberries. —Prune, removing old 
stems if the bush is crowded, and shortening the 
new growth one-half or more. Make cuttings of 
the new wood, about 6 inches long, and set 4 inch¬ 
es apart in trenches, with one bud above tiie sur¬ 
face. Press the earth well against the cuttings and 
mulch with leaves or litter when heavy frosts come. 
Kitchen Garden. 
Plowing should be done, or in small gardens, 
spading, on lands not occupied, previously spread¬ 
ing on a good supply of manure. 
Draining is another work of preparation that is 
best done this month. Plank drains, described on 
page 378, are better than none. 
Asparagus .—The bed is to be cut over when 
growth has ceased. It is best to burn the tops and 
not allow the seeds to go into the manure. 
Beets should not receive heavy frosts as it detracts 
from their sweetness. 
Cabbages and Cauliflomrs .—The plants from seed 
sown last month are to be set in cold frames. Put 
them 2% inches apart each way and set them down 
to the leaves, covering the stems with earth. The 
sashes should not be put on until freezing weather. 
Celery .—The drouth killed the planting in many 
places, and celery is likely to be scarce. Even that 
which stood the drouth is likely to be small. Keep 
it growing as long as possible, but bank up before 
severe frosts. 
Lettuce .—Plants intended for forcing or for early 
spring planting are to be put into cold frames, the 
same as directed for cabbages. In mild localities 
the plants will endure the winter if slightly covered. 
Rhubarb .—See article on forcing on page 381. It 
is better to make new plantations now than in 
spring. Manure freely, and, if seedling plants are 
not to be had, cut up old roots, leaving a bud to 
each piece. Set three feet apart each way. 
Spinach will need thinning; use for the table the 
plants that are removed, or market them. Stir the 
soil between the rows. 
Squashes.— Gather whenever there is danger of 
frost, place in piles and cover with vines at night; 
give them a few days’ sunning before storing. Han¬ 
dle as carefully as if they were eggs, as the least 
bruise will be followed by decay. Store where they 
will be cool aud dry, and not freeze. Large grow¬ 
ers have a house devoted to storing them, iu which 
a fire can be made in very cold weather. 
Siveet Potatoes .—-Do not wait for a severe frost be¬ 
fore digging, or the potatoes will not keep. Take 
up the crop as soon as the leaves show that they 
have been touched ; selecting, if possible, a warm 
day for digging, and allow the potatoes to dry in 
the sun. Pack in perfectly dry leaves or cut straw. 
The essential point in keeping them is to not allow 
them to become cooler than 60 degrees. 
Flower Garden and Lawn. 
This is the most favorable season for grading, 
draining, road-making, transplanting deciduous 
trees and shrubs, aud doing much of the work that 
is usually left until spring. 
House Plants .—The treatment of those that were 
