52 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
The Hollyhock. 
Does any body fully appreciate this flower 1 
The poetical and domestic associations connect¬ 
ed with it are a part of its recommendations. It 
lias long been cultivated in the gardens of our 
fathers. The poets have loved it and sung its 
praises. It was Wordsworth’s pet among the 
flowers ; he had groups and rows of them in his 
garden, where he walked with great delight. And 
then, it is a robust flower, asking no tender nuis- 
ing, and blooming profusely without any care. 
So much for the old-l'ashioried, single sorts ; 
hut much more for the newer and double varities 
These have been so much improved of late by the 
English and French gardeners, that they are now- 
advanced to the rank of “Florists' Flowers.” 
Some amateurs even prefer them to the Dahlia. 
The old, bell-shaped blossoms have given place to 
“ semi-spherical flowers, exceedingly 
double, with closely serried petals, 
and a flat, regular guarded leaf—the 
blossoms so thickly packed around 
the stem that green leaves can 
scarcely peep between them.” So 
says Beck’s Florist. Every color is 
represented, too, from fine white to 
nearly black. The flowers last, as all 
double flowers do, much longer than 
single ones. 
The common and simplest way of 
propagating the hollyhock, is by di¬ 
vision of the roots. But as this would 
not satisfy the yearly demand for the 
choice varieties, it is propagated ex¬ 
tensively by cuttings. These are 
made in the Summer, as soon as the 
blossoming season is over. The cut¬ 
tings, each two inches long and con¬ 
taining a single bud, are split in two, 
the pith taken out, and then they 
are placed in propagating pans of 
sandy soil about an inch and a half 
deep, and covered with a hand-glass. 
In a few weens roots are formed, 
and the plants are potted and ready 
for sale. The hollyhock will live and 
grow almost anywhere, but to attain 
perfection, it should be planted in a 
deep, strong soil well manured and 
worked. Good treatment of any 
plant is always well repaid, 
-o- 
Dalilia Culture 
amateur’s troubles. 
To the Editor of the Amer. Agriculturist: 
I must differ from your remarks in 
reply to the letter of “crest fallen ” 
dahlia raiser in the Jan. Agricultur¬ 
ist, (p. 20). All dahlias of one color 
should be planted in deep rich loam, 
well mixed with decayed cow ma¬ 
nure—the ground being dug to the 
depth of 15 inches. All those of two 
or more colors, striped or shaded, should be 
planted in soil not as rich, and without manure. 
Light loam-(not “sand”) is preferable. If the 
soil be very rich, the deepest color will predomi¬ 
nate, and the bloom will not be of distinct colors 
and shades. Such has been my experience. 
I do not believe in planting dahlias in the 
shade, or on the north side of houses or fences. 
They should be in the sun, and where the air can 
circulate freely under the branches. The soil 
over the roots should be loosened often, but 
without injuring the tubers. If the plants droop 
••n a hot day, supply them liberally with soap sud¬ 
or manure water, using it in the evening. In a 
dry season water two or three times a week. 
As soon as the blossoms begin to fade, cut 
them off, thereby obtaining an earlier and freer 
bloom. When the top has been killed by the 
frost, cover the root to prevent freezing, and let 
them stand and mature until there is danger of 
their being frozen in ; then cut the stalk about 10 
inches from the root, take up, label, and hang in a 
room where they will not freeze and not dry too 
fast. As soon as dry, pack them in dried sand 
and place them where they will not freeze. In 
the spring the tubers should be put into a hot bed 
or heating manure, and as soon as well started, 
cut out each sprout with the whole or part of a 
tuber attached, and plant as before stated. 
Your “ crest fallen ” friend will be able to crow 
next year if he follows this course. E. D. 
Mittincaquc, Massachusetts, Jan. 1859. 
Chrysanthemums. 
During this winter, so far, we have greatly en¬ 
joyed the flowers of these plants, which have sur¬ 
vived the heavy frosts of Autumn, and even now 
challenge the snows to deprive them of their fresh¬ 
ness, and we feel moved to speak of them to our 
readers. The old fashioned sorts, (the large-flow¬ 
ering, or Indian varieties,) are still desirable in a 
collection, although many cultivators now prefer 
the Pompor.es or Chinese, especially for house 
and pot culture. We present above a beautiful 
engraving of the Vespa, one of the finest of the 
large flowering sorts. It is a free blooming pure 
white variety, scarcely known in this country. 
The sketch, of which the above is an engraving, 
was taken from a flower blooming in October last, 
in the “Temple Gardens” of London, (Eng.l 
The Pompones were imported from China, 
some twelve years since, by Mr. Fortune, dur¬ 
ing his first visit to that country. They are 
called by the Chinese, the Chusan Daisy; and 
are said to be their favorite flower. Some one 
writes that the Chinaman bestows great pains 
upon their cultivation, and they reward his pains: 
“ they seem to meet him half-way, and grow 
just as he pleases. They are in great request 
among the people, and are used in the decoration 
of court-yards, halls and temples. They are every¬ 
body’s plant, blooming alike in the garden of the 
lowly Chinese cottager, and in that of the blue- 
buttoned Mandarin.” 
The flowers are about the size o. 
an American quarter of a dollar, 
formed somewhat like the mountain 
daisy, double and compact, and ot 
almost every color and shade. Alas ! 
with perhaps one or two exceptions, 
they are without fragrance. Still, 
they nearly atone for this by the 
symmetry, perfection and brilliancy 
of their blossoms, and by the length 
of time they remain in bloom. Their 
foliage also, is dense, and pleasing 
to the eye. They are as hardy as 
the majority of herbaceous plants, 
often wintering out of doors un¬ 
harmed, and at most needing only 
slight protection. They are best 
adapted, however, for blooming in¬ 
doors, their period of flowering ex¬ 
tending from October to January, 
The fact that they blossom at this 
season, when most plants are flower¬ 
less, enhances their value. We can 
not now recall any plant which blos¬ 
soms so freely and so abundantly 
with so little care. 
CULTURE. 
About the middle of May, in this 
latitude, take cuttings from the ole 
roots, and set them in the open bor¬ 
der. If the soil has a plentiful ad 
mixture of sand, they will strike 
more freely. Keep the ground moist 
around them by a mulching of cut 
grass, and an occasional watering in 
dry weather. They will form roots 
and begin to grow in a few weeks 
After they have grown two or three 
inches, pinch out the top, so as to 
cause the lower branches to break 
and to give the plants a broad base ; 
for nothing looks worse in a chrysan¬ 
themum than a lean and naked stem. 
If they have grown three or four 
inches more, pinch again ; but do not 
pursue this operation after August. After that 
time, they should be allowed to form their flower- 
buds. About July, commence potting them, using 
a good loam mixed with one-third rotten dung. If 
you have time and patience to give them the best 
possible culture, begin with very small pots and 
shift them several times until the first of Septem¬ 
ber, when they should receive their final shill in 
quart pots, or a size larger. If you have not pa¬ 
tience, defer potting until August, and then give 
them quart pots at once. 
Formerly, it was recommended to strike the 
cuttings and to grow the plants during Summer, 
