1 
AMEKICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
G7 
Potatoes—Plant early varieties, 11, covering pretty deep 
to protect from frost. A few may be sprouted by putting 
in boxes, and burying in the manure heap. 
Radishes—Sow at intervals, in hot-beds, ff, m, 1; and, 11, 
in the open ground. 
Raspberries—Uncover buried canes, 11, if the weather 
is settled. Stake up at once and head back to four or five 
feet in hight. 
Rhubarb—Uncover protected roots, II, and spade or fork 
in a good dressing of manure. Set out new plants on well 
prepared and rich soil, 1. 
Salsafy—Dig as wanted for use or market. Save some 
of the best roots for seed. 
Seeds—Procure and test at once. In milder latitudes 
set out roots, etc., for seed, 11. See directionson page51, 
last number relative to starting early. 
Spinach—Uncover Fall plants and sow seed, 11. Thin 
out for use. 
Strawberries—Rake off the Winter covering, 11, top- 
dress with fine, well rotted manure, hoeing it in. 
Sweet Potatoes—Plant in hot-beds, m, 1, to obtain sets 
for planting out. 
Tools of the most approved kinds are supposed to be in 
working order. Try the spade fork instead of the blade 
spade for digging. 
Tomatoes—So w in hot-beds, f, m, and in open ground, 11. 
Trellises and Arbors—See that the old are repaired and 
new ones built, before planting comes on. 
Trench garden soils, 11, if warm and dry. 
Turnips—Sow, 11, in open grounds for early use. If to 
be forced, sow in hot-beds, m, 1. 
Winter Cherries (Pliysalis) -Sow, f, in, in hot-beds, and, 
11. in open ground. The Alkekengi will rarely ripen 
without forcing. 
Flower Gardesi and Lawsi. 
An early or backward Spring will materially vary the 
labors of “ embellishing the home.” Planting can some¬ 
times be done during the latter part of March in this lati¬ 
tude, while at other seasons it must be delayed until the 
rnidd'e of April, or later. Some things however, can 
always be done by way of preparation, such as clearing 
away rubbish, renewing gravel walks, and w here the sea¬ 
son promises continued miM weather, the tender shrubs 
may be leleased from their protection of straw, and the 
bulbs and other roots uncovered. The borders may also 
be prepared and some of the hardy annuals sown, II, such 
as mignonette, portulaccas, coreopsis, petunias, e'e. 
Ollier varieties may be sown, f, m, in a hot-bed. 
Biennial and Perennial Roots—Divide and reset, 11. 
Box and Grass Edgings—Plant and trim, 11, renewing 
any defective places. 
Bulbs—If any have been kept out of ground, plant them, 
ff, if the ground admits of working. 
Carnations, Pinks, and Daisies—Admit air to those in 
(rames or pits thus hardening them for planting out. 
Drain heavy and wet soils as recommended under 
Kitchen Garden. 
Gravel—Procure a supply and replenish old, and make 
new walks. Let it be pretly coarse. 
Hedges—Set out deciduous, II, if the ground is in work¬ 
ing order. Buckthorn or privet will serve as a good pro¬ 
tection, while aliheas make a fine screen. 
Honeysuckles and other Vines—Prune, in, 1, and ar¬ 
range upon lattice w ork or trellises, 11. Plant cuttings or 
roots at l he same time. 
Hot-Beds—Make, ff', for propagating cuttings and sow¬ 
ing annuals for early flowering. 
Labels, Stakes, Dahlia poles, etc.—Provide what arc 
needed, ff, m. 
Lawn—Rake over, II, to remove the accumulation of 
leaves and decayed grass. Spread over a dressing of 
bone manure, plaster, ashes, guano, or fine barnyard ma¬ 
nure. Replace bare spots with turf or scatter on seed, 
pressing down with a heavy roller* 
New Grounds—Lay out and grade, m, 1, according to 
previously matured plans. Read hints on “Planning the 
Garden,” page 84. 
Ornamental Shade Trees—Plant deciduous, 11, if the 
ground is in working order. 
Plow lawn, 11, for early planting, manuring heavily. 
Roses—Plant cuttings and roots, 11. Prune and regu¬ 
late pillar and climbing varieties 
Shrubs—Uncover, II, those which were strawed up or 
otherwise protected, if the w-eather appears settled ; if 
not, leave till next month. 
Transplanting of trees, shrubs, flowers, etc., may be 
done, 11, or earlier where Spring has fairly set in 
Greesa ISoiasc. 
Fire heat may still be needed if the weather continues 
cold. Towmrds the end of the month it may be nearly 
dispensed with, if the houses be closed early in the after¬ 
noon. Abundance of air will be needed as the plants at¬ 
tain a more vigorous growth. It is also necessary to har¬ 
den off the plants. 
Bedding Plants—Have a stock of verbenas, petunias, 
pansies, daisies.etc., now hardening for out-door planting. 
Cleanse plants, pots, tubs and houses from dead leaves, 
moss, weeds, etc., to keep everything sweet and clean. 
Wash the leaves and syringe the foliage. 
Insects still require looking after or they will increase 
in numbers. 
Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, Myrtles, etc.—Examine, 
cutting to a good shaped head, and clearing tubs from 
w r eeds, moss, etc. Repot and dress those requiring more 
room and a richer soil. 
Pelargoniums—Pick off decaying leaves and cut away 
any branches showing mold. Give fresh supplies of pure 
air and more water as they begin to bloom. 
Seeds—Sow, m, 1, for early out-door planting. 
Water—Give moderate supplies to succulents, and more 
frequent applications to woody plants now in a fair stage 
of growth. 
Mot House and Coaaservatory. 
These still require much care through the changeable 
weather of March. A warm sunny day is often followed 
by a frosty night, with high chilling winds, making it 
necessary to watch the furnaces carefully and perhaps 
cover the glass wilh shutters at night, or during snow 
storms. The various houses or rooms will present a dif¬ 
ferent appearance and require different treatment accord¬ 
ing to the collections they contain and the amount of 
forcingthey have received. A house devoted exclusively 
to Camellias will require different care from one having 
Camellias interspersed with Epacris, Heaths, Cactuses, 
Pelargoniums, Bignonias, Cissus, Fuchsias, Gloxinias, 
Lilliums, etc., etc., which are occasionally met wilh in the 
same collection. We can only give general directions, 
observing that in every and all departments, neatness and 
order should be preserved and the whole made as attrac¬ 
tive as possible, especially at this season when an abund¬ 
ance of bloom invites frequent visitors. 
Abutilons are easily managed and succeed in almost 
any collection. Give moderate waterings, sufficient room, 
and pinch to a well shaped head. 
Acacias should show' a fine bloom. Water lightly and 
expose in an airy situation. 
Annuals—Pot off those sown last month and sow anew 
if a larger stock is needed. 
Azalias are passing out ofbloom. Head back the strag¬ 
gling growth. 
Bedding Plants—Increase the stock, unless sufficiently 
large, by putting in cuttings of the varieties recommended 
last month. Place established plants in frames, m, 1, for 
hardening off. 
Bulbs—Bring forward from the Green-House or other 
cool place for a succession of b.oom. Change the water 
in glasses twice a week. Those done blooming may be 
set away to dry off. 
Calceolarias—Shift plants requiring more room to 
larger sized pots, watering freely. Flowering plants 
should now show a fine bloom. 
Camellias are still among the most attractive flowers 
of the house where a fine collection is in full bloom. 
They require only a medium heat with a good supply of 
water at the root. Avoid wetting the flowers which 
hastens their decay. Young plants may be inarched, m, 1, 
Chrysanthemums—Increase by cuttings and layers. 
Cinerarias—Shift pot-bound plants, keeping down green 
fly with fumigations. 
Cuttings of many plants, both succulent and woody 
may be put in to good advantage. Keep moderately 
moist and cover the more delicate with hand glasses. 
Flowering Plants—Keep up a succession by potting and 
bringing to heat and light, as great a variety as possible. 
As they pass out of bloom, lay away, heading back and 
otherwise regulating as necessary. 
Fuchsias—Bring from Green-House to forward the 
flowering season. Train to a neat round or pyramidal 
form. Repot young plants. 
Hydrangeas, Pinks, Carnations and Daisies may also 
have a place in the Hot-IIouse, m, 1, to force into flower. 
Grapes—Attend to as tho stage of growth requires. 
Green-House plants are just bursting, and those in 
forcing houses may be in bloom, setting fruit, in the last 
stages of swelling or ripening off according to length of 
time fire-heat has been used. Particular directions can 
not therefore be given. Outside borders may be uncov¬ 
ered and manured, 11, if the weather is warm and dry. 
Heaths—Shift to larger pots as necessary. 
Insects—Destroy by tobacco fumes. 
Lantar.as—Repot, f, m, plants for blooming early. 
Layer w oody plants fur an increase of stock. 
Musas—Water freely w hen in agrowing state. Change 
those needing it to tubs of fruiting size. 
Peach, Fig, Orange, Lemon, and other trees in pots, 
now require an even temperature, abundance of air, and 
light. Water freely and keep down insects. 
Pelargoniums—Place in a light airy situation, watering 
j rather sparingly. 
Roses—Shift established cuttings and those intended 
for early flowering, to large pots. Harden off a portion 
for out-door planting, by putting in frames out side. 
Seeds—Sow an abundance ofannual exotics and natives. 
Syringe the walls and plants, and* sprinkitj the floors 
each morning to maintain a moist atmosphere. 
Water—Give moderately, especially woody plants. 
An excess is more to be feared than too little. See that 
the drainage is perfect. 
Apiary isa Marcia. 
BY Jl. ipiiarY. 
St. Johnsville, N. V. 
As soon as the frost about the nive is melted, scrape out 
all dead bees and dirt from under the combs, leaving no¬ 
thing that can mold and make it unhealthy for the bees. 
Turn the hive back carefully, without disturbing the bees, 
until the cluster can be seen, and ascertain if there are 
any dead ones between any of the combs ; if so, remove 
them before they putrefy—a large wire, crooked at the 
end, will answer very well for the purpose of working 
them down. If already moldy, the combs in such place 
should be cut out Keep the bees quiet with tobacco 
smoke during the operation. 
The inexperienced should avoid feeding as long as it 
will answer to wait; it is quite sure to induce rob¬ 
beries and contentions with other bees ; often resulting in 
more mischief, than to let a colony or two starve. The 
condition of the colony in respect to food, may be frequent¬ 
ly ascertained by inverting the hive carefully some clear 
morning, and getting such a position, that the sunlight 
may go, if possible, between the combs to the top of the 
hive. If any sealed honey can be seen near the top, or 
outside, there is no particular danger of the bets starving 
short of two weeks. If the movable frames are used, the 
exact quantity of honey on hand can be ascertained. If 
any colony is nearly out, some other one is quite sure to 
hav« a surplus. By changing a comb or two from the 
heavy one to the other, both may be benefitted. To feed 
bees in the common hive, take pieces of comb containing 
honey, lay them on the top, and open the holes for 
communication ; then set over a close box, to keep away 
allother bees—if practicable such box should be close 
enough to prevent others from even scenting the honey. 
A box with honey worked in by the bees is a very con¬ 
venient way of feeding. When strained honey is to be 
fed, it is best to scald and skim it, adding water to pre¬ 
vent burning. If nothing else is to be had, sugar made 
into a thick syrup, will answer to prevent starving. This, 
or the liquid honey, may be poured into a shallow dish, 
and set on the hive. Wood shavings or other light ma 
terials will float on the top, and prevent the bees from 
drowning. The bees soon learn the way, if a few drops 
are trailed over the side at first. 
Bees should occupy their Summer stand as soon 
as possible in the Spring; there is a great loss in changing 
after they commence labor, Unless to a distance of at 
least a mile. 
In sections where there are but few early flowers, and 
the stocks have a good supply of honey, a very good sub¬ 
stitute for pollen can be obtained in rye, ground and 
unbolted, and placed where bees can have access to it. 
It is said early and extensive breeding will be induced, 
and they will become strong in time to take advantage of 
the first yield of honey from the flowers. 
A light snow during this month, followed by clear sun¬ 
shine, will attract the bees from the hive more readily 
than in mid-winter, and until it begins to pack, it is gene¬ 
rally fatal to those that settle on it. If shading the hive 
will not prevent their issuing, they may be stopped in for 
a few hours. 
Bees that are in the house, may be kept tolerably quiet 
during the turns of moderate w'eather, and until a good 
day occurs to set them out, by putting snow or ice in the 
room. For setting them out, choose a clear, warm day, 
any time from nine o’clock till three. Have the stands 
all ready, and as far apart as possible. A dozen stocks 
every two hours is about the right number. Old snow on 
the ground will do no harm. 
If too many bees gather into one or more hives, and 
leave others correspondingly short, it is well to change 
them the next day, putting the weak one where the strong 
one stood, and the strong one in the place of the other ; 
it will usually set them right. 
If severe weather occurs after they are out, return the 
weaker ones, if not all, to the house. Nearly close the 
entrance as a protection against robbers, also to preserve 
the animal heat, which is needed at this season. 
-^ I im iU »P—- p <£&■ ■ ■ ■■ 
Condition oJ Farining on Westerns 
Prairies.— In December, (Vol 17, p. 364.) we published 
a letter from H II., showing the defects and the dark side 
of farming on the Western Prairies, particularly in Illi¬ 
nois. Last month, (pace 38.) G. D. Smith gave an oppo¬ 
site view of the matter. There is much truth in the 
statements of both correspondents, as we can testify from 
personal observation, and we hope what they have writ¬ 
ten may be the means of awakening inquiry and thought. 
We have a rejoinder irom II. II., in which he quotes from 
Illinois journals several passages to confirm his former 
statements If we publish this we must admit a reply 
from Mr. Smith, and the discussion would be quite likely 
to degenerate into a personal one. We have not room for 
this, and having heard both, prefer to drop the debat -’ here 
