AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
Nasturtiums—Sow, m, 1 
Oltra—Sow, 11. 
Onions—Sow, m, 1, and put out sets or bulbs at the same 
time. See prize article in last Agriculturist, 
Parsley—Sow, f, m, 1. 
Parsneps—Sow, f, m, 1, on deeply worked rich soil. 
Peas—Sow, f, m, 1, to have them in succession. De¬ 
stroy weevil by scalding. Stick when up a few inches. 
Potatoes—Plant early sorts, f, m. Sow seed from balls 
last year, 1. 
Radishes—Sow at intervals from, ff, to 11, in unoccupied 
corners, and between beets, vines, etc. for early use. 
Light sandy soil is best. 
Raspberries—Set out new roots, and uncover buried 
canes, f, m. Head back, and stake up. Fork in top-dres¬ 
sing of stable manure, ff. 
Rhubarb—Uncover, ff, and fork in manure around 
roots. Divide and reset for new plants, ff. Plant the 
Linnmus variety. 
Salading—Sow at intervals of 10 or 12 days seeds of 
plants for salad, as lettuce, endive, cresses, rape, etc. 
Salsafy—Sow', m, 1, on trenched ground well manured. 
Sage—Sow seed and divide roots, f, m, 1 
Sea Kale—Sow, f, in. 
Seeds—Test those on hand. Procure new'. Make am¬ 
ple provision to raise your own in future. Set out se¬ 
lected Winter vegetables for this purpose, 11. 
Soil—Improve if needed by adding sand to lighten, or 
clay to make more compact. 
Spinach—Uncover Winter, ff. Sow for successive 
crops, f, m, 1. 
Squashes.—Plant distant from other vines, 11. 
Strawberries—Remove covering if neglected till now, 
ff. Set out new beds, m, 1. See article “ How to Raise 
Strawberries,” on following page. 
Thyme—Sow, m, 1. 
Tomatoes—Sow seed, f, m, 1. Take from hot-beds, 11. 
Tools—Clean well and put in place after using. Keep 
in repair. 
Trench part or all of garden before planting. It wiil pay. 
Turnips—Sow early growing sorts, f, m, 1, 
Flower Garden and ILnwn. 
Transplanting flower roots, shrubs and deciduous trees 
and preparation of borders, renewing gravel walks with 
the remaining preparatory work which has been left from 
last month, will all need attention now. Unless the sea¬ 
son is quite forward or the border very warm, few seeds 
will do well, sow n before the latter part of this or the first 
of the succeeding month. 
Annuals—Some of the hardier may very properly be 
sown, m, 11, especially such as asters, balsams, candy¬ 
tuft, coreopsis, clarkia, coxcomb, escholtzia, hibiscus, 
larkspur, lavatera, marygold, mignonette, nasturtium, 
phlox, portulacca, scabious, etc. 
Biennials and Perennials—Transplant, f, m, dividing 
the roots to increase the supply. Sow seed, m, 11. Among 
these are carnations, pinks, daisies, chrysanthemums, 
lillies, sweet williams, yuccas, peonies, columbines, 
hollyhocks, dielytras, etc. 
Borders—Prepare, ff, m, for sowing and planting. Dig 
deep and manure well. 
Box and Grass Edgings—Set new and repair old, f, m, 1. 
Trim the old evenly. 
Bulbs—Hyacinths, tulips, crown imperials, etc., will 
remain longer in flower if shaded from the sun. They 
should show a fine bloom, m, 11. 
Carnations—Pot and transplant, ff. Keep well watered, 
and the surface loose around them. 
Dahlias and Gladiolas—Place in boxes, m, 11, for start 
ing. Expose during mild days ; take in when cool. 
Dielytra—Plant out, m, 1. The border is incomplete 
without it. 
Drain all wet grounds if a good garden soil is expected. 
They may be worked much earlier, and are warmer. 
Evergreens—May be planted, m, 11, but better during 
the early part of May. If other work will prevent 
planting, do it the latter part of this month rather than 
not at all. 
Frames and Pits—Transplant from them, m, 11, if the 
weather is sufficiently settled, otherwise ventilate freely. 
Gravel—Renew the old and make new walks, f, m. 
Hedges—Set deciduous hedge plants, ff, m, and ever¬ 
green, m, 11, or later. 
Labels for marking the flowers, and stakes and dahlia 
poles should all be procured at once. 
Lawn—Put everything in a neat, attractive order, rak¬ 
ing and rolling the turf, sowing seed cm bare spots, or re- 
sodding. Sow new grounds, f, m, the earlier the better. 
Top dress with guano, bone-dust or fine manure. 
Prune, ff, any vines or shrubs neglected last month 
Petunias and Verbenas—Sow seed, m, 1, and set or bed 
rooted plants, 11. 
Roses—Plant, ff, m. Tie pillar and climbing varieties. 
Shade Trees—Plant deciduous kinds, ff, m. 
Shrubs—Plant, ff, m, the althea, flowering almond, 
azalea, chionanthus, flowering currant, deutzia, euony- 
mous, holly, Japan quince, laburnum, lilac, philadelphus, 
rose acacia, snowberry, snowball, spiraea, tree poeony, 
weigelia, etc. 
Vines and Climbers—Plant, ff, m, bignonia, clematis, 
honeysuckle, ivy, trumpet flower, Virginian creeper, wis¬ 
taria, moneywort, etc. 
Greesa Iloaasc. 
Very little if any artificial heat will be required this 
month, but the rapidly growing shoots will need abund¬ 
ance of air. Without this they w ill be weak, and unfit 
for transplanting to open border. Let the house remain 
open the whole day when clear and sufficiently mild. 
Bedding Plants—Increase stock of verbenas, petunias, 
geraniums, daisies, pansies, etc., by dividing roots, layer¬ 
ing and cuttings. Gradually harden for out door growth. 
Bulbs—Give plenty of air and water to those in bloom, 
and shade from too strong light. Plant out those that 
have shed their flow ers. 
Callas—Water freely, keep free from dust and turn to 
the light. 
Camellias—Syringe freely and insert cuttings. 
Cuttings—Continue to make new, from well ripened 
wood. Insert them thickly in prepared soil and plunge 
the pots in the bark bed for a bottom heat. A bell or 
other glass placed over them w ill facilitate their rooting. 
Grapes—Vines are in different stages of forwardness 
according to the heat of the house. Disbud, train up 
shoots and syringe freely, mixing a little sulphur in the 
water to prevent mildew. 
Head back and pinch in plants with ill shaped heads. 
Inarching—Oranges, lemons, limes, etc., may now be 
inarched. (See full description and illustration of the 
process, page 184, Vol. XVI.) 
Insects—Watch carefully for and destroy as previous¬ 
ly recommended. 
Mildew—Dust plants and flues with flour of sulphur, 
where there is any appearance of mildew. 
Pot off annuals sown last month. 
Seeds—Sow annuals early, for planting in the borders. 
Vegetables may be forwarded by sowing in pots in the 
Green-house and afteiward transplanting to the garden. 
Shifting—Continue to re-pot all whose rapid growth in¬ 
dicates a w-ant of more room. Give fresh earth to others. 
Water more freely as plants are growing more rapidly. 
Mot House asEnl CoBBsoi-vatory. 
Less heat will be necessary than during last month; 
a sufficiency of air is important. A moderate fire must be 
kept in the evening and during cold windy days. Care¬ 
ful ventilation when the weather is mild w ill be beneficial. 
The temperature should range from 60° to 72°. The 
warmer the weather and the larger the plants, the great¬ 
er the amount of air required. 
Cuttings—Make and treat as in Green-House. 
Flowers in Pots—Bring in from the Green-House for 
blooming. 
Fuchsias—Water more freely as they approach the 
blooming season. Increase the stock by cuttings. 
Grapes—Thin bunches of the early forcing -, rub off 
superfluous shoots, and confine branches to wires. Use 
sulphur to prevent mildew. 
Insects increase rapidly this month, if not kept in 
check. Fumes of tobacco, syringing and hand picking are 
the destroying agents. 
Pines are now setting fruit—Maintain a natural tropi¬ 
cal atmosphere by evaporations, to produce dews at night 
Seeds—Sow the different varieties of hot-house plants, 
to keep up the stock. 
Shiftings—A large number of plants will need more 
room at this season. Shift to larger pots, ff. 
Syringe freely towards evening, both to dislodge insects 
and promote a humid atmosphere. 
Water—An increased supply will be necessary, as the 
plants are now growing rapidly. See that the drainage 
is perfect 
Apiary in ApiriS. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
If bees are fed in the Spring, care must be taken not to 
discontinue the feeding too soon as they will then be more 
likely to starve than if no supplies had been given them. 
A colony of bees having storesjust sufficient to take them' 
through, would be likely to rear but little brood : if through 
fear of their starving a few pounds of food are given them 
they are encouraged to undertake the rearing of a large 
orood. If now further feeding is withheld, and the flowers 
in consequence of a cold turn of weather, yield nothing— 
the bees to prevent this brood from perishing, feed all the 
stores of the previous season ; and then without a timely 
intervention of favorable weather, must starve. It is bet¬ 
ter to feed moderately and continue it till sure they obtain 
sufficient from the flowers ; which in some seasons, is not 
till white clover appears. A colony that is fed, should be 
closely watched. It sometimes happens that pillaging 
bees carry off the food given them, and they starve in 
consequence. For directions for feeding, see Apiary for 
March. It is bad economy to feed by setting refuse or 
other honey in the open air, for all to partake of promis¬ 
cuously. The moth worms during this month may be 
found under the bees nearly every morning, and are easi¬ 
ly destroyed. Each female now matured, is capable at a 
low estimate of producing one hundred others the first 
generation! these in turn as many more each, through 
four or five generations in the course of the Summer, 
when the number multiplies to thousands—an induce¬ 
ment for present action and care on the part of the bee¬ 
keeper... .The strength of a colony may be ascertained 
on a cool morning by turning back the hive far enough to 
get a view of the cluster of bees ; all weak ones should be 
specially guarded by nearly closing the entrance—allow¬ 
ing only one bee to pass at a time. This, although not a 
sure preventive, is a great protection against robbing bees, 
which otherwise are quite certain to find out the weak and 
defenceless, the first real warm day, and carry off all their 
stores. Before flowers appear, bees are very restless, and 
are quite sure to get into mischief. When engaged in 
pillaging, if the weather is warm, they continue opera¬ 
tions till dark. Should they be neglected through the day, 
take a look at them after sundown, when honest bees 
should be at home; if at work now, it is out of season, and 
very suspicious, even for bees, to keep such late hours. 
This habit of taking what does not belong to them—rob¬ 
bing—“ is sure to lead to some bad end,” and must be 
broken up. If the hive being robbed has a queen, and is 
all right except its w eakness ; sprinkle some flour on the 
robbers as they issue from the hive, and see w hat hive 
they enter—most likely it will be some thrifty strong 
stock, w hose stand may be exchanged with the weak one. 
But should the robbers belong to some neighbor, then it 
will be necessary to carry the hive to some dark cool 
room or cellar, until several warm days have passed, 
when it may be returned to its stand. If it could be taken 
off a mile or two on the first attack of the robbers for a 
few days, it would be better, as no time would be lost in 
the house. Graduate the entrance of all the hives pro¬ 
portionate to the bees that are to pass.... All hives that are 
to be painted, should now receive attention, that they 
may lose the rank smell of the paint before used... .Do 
not forget the box for the little wren. He will assist in 
destroying the worms—will be on the lookout when you 
are away... .If nothing breaks the force of the prevailing 
winds; erect a close board fence for the purpose_In all 
moderate weather it will be an advantage to allow the 
sun to shine directly on the hive. It is important to 
hasten forward the brood at this season, and warmth 
is needed for the purpose. 
Motes ©aa SSae CaBltm’e of tlie Seeds 
m ®m* DistB'ilmtiosa ]Lt§t. 
.[We are, from time to time, giving, in separate articles, 
descriptions, and frequently illustrations, of the several 
garden, field and flowering plants embraced in our list 
for distribution, as well as of many others, and also the 
mode of culture. As a guide to the time and manner of 
planting or sowing, etc., we throw together here some 
brief notes, to be referred to by those not acquainted with 
all the seeds they have received from us this year.] 
The time of sowing or planting given below refers 
to latitude 41°. Further South the season is of course, 
earlier, and further North later. 
Field Seeds. 
No. I. White Sugar Beets —Adapted mainly to feeding 
stock—Sow about May 1st, or earlier, if the ground be in 
good condition. For Winter feeding, the latter part of 
May is better. A deep, rich soil is required. Put in drills 
2 feet apart, dropping a seed every 5 inches, and after¬ 
wards remove every other plant where all the seeds vege¬ 
tate. Cover the seed t to 1 inch deep. 
No. 2. Improved King Philip Corn .—Plant like other 
corn. It will mature earlier, and when necessary, may 
be planted later. No corn should go into the ground be¬ 
fore warm, settled weather, even should it be necessary 
to wait until the first week in June. 
No. 3. Stowell's Sweet Corn —May be planted in field or 
garden, as early as the ground will allow. It ripens very 
slowly, continuing a long time in the milk state, and has 
hence been called evergreen. To secure pure seed, it 
must be planted early, and at a distance from other corn. 
Really pure seed is quite as difficult to be had now as 
four years ago. 
No. 4. White Poland Oafs.—Those who get our packages 
this year, should plant and preserve the seed with care. 
Oats of all kinds did so poorly last year, that it was with 
the greatest difficulty we could get any seed of this kind. 
Those we send out weigh over 40 pounds to the bushel, 
but those of this weight are exceedingly scarce the pre¬ 
sent Spring. It will be worth while to sow our little mail 
packages in drills, say one foot apart, dropping the grains 
