AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
227 
Beets—Thin those sown last month. Early ones are 
ready for use. Pull from the thickest parts of the bed. 
Blackberries are in the hight of bearing and require 
daily picking. 
Cabbages—Cauliflowers and Brocoli—Plant, ff, for late 
use, if they were not all put in last month. Keep grounds 
well stirred about former plantings. Seed may be sown, 
f, m, for collards or greens for Fall use. 
Celery—Put out the remaining crop, if, wetting both the 
trenches and the plants after setting. The early plantings 
may be earthed up slightly, 11. 
Corn Salad—Sow, 11, for Winter. 
Currants and Gooseberries—Prune, m, or as soon as the 
crop is gathered, cutting out old decaying wood. Head 
back, and shape to a tree or good bush form. 
Cucumbers, melons, squashes, &c.—Head back those 
running too much to vines. Pick cucumbers for pickles. 
Shingles or straw placed under the finest melons, will as¬ 
sist them in ripening and keep away worms. 
Espalier or Wall trees—Regulate branches, and prune 
if necessary. 
Grapes—Keep the leaders well tied, and continue to 
nip back the bearing shoots, always preserving two or 
three leaves beyond the bunches. Hand pick or scissors 
the worms as they continue to hatch out. 
Herbs—Complete gathering, ff, m. 
Hops—Pick during dry weather as they ripen, spread¬ 
ing until perfectly dry when they may be put in bags and 
hung away for use. 
Lettuce—Continue to sow and plant out for Autumn use. 
Mushroom beds may be made, m, 11. Collect mate¬ 
rials, f, m. 
Onions—Many of the early sowings will soon show 
signs of ripeness and may be pulled, m, 1. Sow, 11, for 
pips to leave out over Winter. 
Peas will fill for late use if sown, fif. Clear ground 
from early crops and resow with peas or turnips. 
Potatoes—Dig for early use and for market, using the 
ground for a second crop of some sort. 
Preserving or Canning Fruit and Vegetables—Put up a 
good supply for next Winter, now while they are abun¬ 
dant and can easily be spared. See articles in past and 
present numbers. 
Radishes—Sow, f, m, for late use. Sow Black and 
White Spanish or Winter radishes, f, m. 
Raspberries—Cut out bearing canes which have ripen¬ 
ed their crop. Collect and house the stakes. Give the 
new canes good tillage, as upon these depends the next 
crop. Where inclined to grow very tall, head back so as 
to induce side branches, which will give a greater fruit 
bearing surface. 
Rhubarb—A moderate quantity may still be pulled, 
which if taken from near the center of the Linnaeus, and 
some other improved tarielies, w ill be quite tender for a 
month yet. 
Seeds—Carefully collect all that are now ripening and 
dry and clean for another year. Label them, and note 
the year of raising upon each package. 
Spinach—Sow, f, m, 1, for Autumn use, and, 11, for a 
Spring crop. Scatter a little lettuce seed among it. 
Strawberries—See full directions on a following page. 
The runners of those intended for hill culture will require 
clipping now. 
Tomatoes—Tie to trellises or frames, f, m. Brusli laid 
upon the ground answers a tolerable purpose for them to 
run upon. If growing rankly they will bear a moderate 
pinching in, 11. 
Turnips—It is rather late to sow the ruta baga family, 
except at the South. Flat or round White sorts may be 
sown, ff, m, and will pruduce a good late yield. 
Water—Give slops, wash water, etc., to currant bush¬ 
es, strawberry beds, and newly planted vegetables. Soap 
suds should be used for such purposes rather than thrown 
away. 
Weeds—Raise vegetables instead of a crop of weeds to 
impoverish the soil, and leave seed for future toil or labor 
to exterminate. 
Winter Cress—Sow, m, 1, for "Winter and Spring crop. 
Flowea.’ CnaFcleia sinad ILawsE. 
The season has been favorable for nearly all varieties 
of flowers, and the grounds should now show a fine bloom 
of choice annuals, interspersed with the later perennials. 
Many of the directions of last month are equally applica¬ 
ble now. 
The present is a favorable time to perfect plans for new 
grounds, so that the grading may be done, drives, aven¬ 
ues, and walks laid out, and everything be in leadiness 
for Fall and early Spring planting. 
Budding—Roses, Oranges, Lemons, and many of the 
flowering shrubs may now be budded. 
Bulbs—Lift, ff, any to be reset this season. Most of. 
them do quite well without moving more than every third 
year. Sow seeds to originate new varieties. 
Dahlias should now show a fine bloom of choice colors. 
Keep well tied up and prune where growing too thickly. 
One, or at most two good flower stalks, per root, is suffi¬ 
cient. Frequent waterings and a mulch about the roots 
in dry weather will benefit them. Cut away the dried 
flowers as fast as they lose their beauty. 
Flower Stalks of all kinds should be removed as soon 
as they have completed their bloom. 
Fuchsias—Keep partially shaded to lengthen out the 
period of bloom. 
Gravel Walks—Hoe or weed often, raking smoothly 
and rolling. 
Hedges—Clip, m, 1, unless it was done during the latter 
part of last month. Cut mainly from the top, so as to 
thicken up the bottom. 
Hoe often all cultivated grounds, walks, etc., removing 
the weeds with the rake. Even if there are no weeds the 
soil should be stirred to keep it from crusting and prepare 
it to absorb all the dews. 
Hydrangeas may now be increased by cuttings and lay¬ 
ers. 
Insects—Do not allow them to increase even if they are 
not as troublesome as earlier in the season. Continue 
the Whale Oil Soap mixture for slugs on rose bushes. 
A dusting of lime or wood ashes will accomplish the 
same purpose, though less effectually. 
Lawn and Grass Edgings—Mow evenly every two 
weeks and rake off. Sow seed, m, 1, on bare spots and 
new grounds. A sprinkling with manure water will both 
refresh and enrich them. 
Mignonette sown, ff, will form fine plants for Autumn 
and Winter blooming in doors. 
Pansy seed may be sown, f, m, for Spring bloom. Con¬ 
tinue to layer and separate rooted plants. 
Pelargoniums—Propagate by cuttings, ff, [m. Head 
back straggling plants. 
Perennials—Fibrous rooted, such as Sweet William, 
Scarlet Lychnis, Ragged Robin, etc., may be parted and 
transplanted, m. 1. 
Potted Plants placed in the grounds during the Sum¬ 
mer, require almost daiiy waterings. Loosen the surface 
soil, and remove weeds and dead leaves. 
Prune Shrubs and Trees upon the Lawn, or borders, if 
necessary, always using the knife sparingly upon shade 
trees, although where it is to be done, this is a suitable 
month for the operation. Almost any desired shape may 
be given to a lawn tree by heading back in one place, 
tying in another, and pinching elsewhere. Fantastic 
forms are sometimes given evergreens by shearing to the 
shape of animals or other-objects. 
Roses—Continue to bud and layer, ff. Use the oil soap 
recommended last month, as long as the slug is to be seen. 
Verbenas and Petunias—Layer, ff, m, for Winter and 
Spring blooming in houses. 
Water—Give to potted plants especially, and those new¬ 
ly planted out. Ifverydryan application both morning 
and evening will be beneficial,to those which absorb rap¬ 
idly. It is better to mulch the ground before w atering. 
Weeds should only be found in the Flower Garden in 
the shape of native wild flowers, many of which are wor¬ 
thy of a place here, and now is a good time to search for 
them, w'hile they are in bloom. 
€Sl’CCEE EiBBdl Blot IIOIBSOS. 
So many of the ordinary Green-House plants are now 
in the open grounds, and treated of under •* Flower Gar¬ 
den ” that little need be said here. Those remaining will 
need abundance of air each day when the weather is fa¬ 
vorable. The houses will require putting in order and 
other arrangements completed for taking in the plants 
next month. A large quantity of prepared mold should 
also be in readiness for changing and potting off plants. 
Budding—Complete, f, m. 
Bulbs—Pot a few, m, 1, for Winter forcing. 
Callas—Repot, f, m, watering moderately. 
Cammellias—Complete repotting and bud, or inarch 
those plants which are to be changed. 
Cuttings of a large number of plants should r.ow be 
made and put in to get up a good stock for Winter. 
Earth in Pots—Loosen or stir, renewing where neces¬ 
sary. Top dress, or give liquid manure to plants which 
need a more rapid growth. 
Grapes—Some of the early houses have already ripened 
their crops, and the vines want hardening off, by throw¬ 
ing open the doors and ventilators. Later plants need 
some pinching and watering. Watch the approach of 
mildew, using sulphur to check it. 
Houses—Commence early to put them in order, before 
plants are brought in. Repair shelves and beds, glaze 
windows, cleanse the whole house thoroughly, have ropes, 
weights and pullies in working condition, look to the 
heating apparatus, and lastly paint those houses requiring 
it. being careful to empty them from all tender succulent 
plants at the time, else the poisonous gas from new paint 
will cause defoliation. 
Insects—Allow none to increase as the brooding sea¬ 
son draws to a close. Fumigate, syringe with pure wa¬ 
ter and the .Whale Oil Soap mixture. 
Layering and In-arching—Continue as directed last 
month. Some of the early layers have become rooted and 
may be separated and potted off. 
Potting—This is the appropriate season for shifting gen¬ 
erally, and potting off seedlings. Complete early, that 
they may become established before Winter. See that 
a good heap of properly prepared potting soil is in readi¬ 
ness, as large quantities will be wanted before all the 
plants receive their final change for the Winter. 
Seeds—Watch the ripening of and collect, ff, m. Sow 
calceolarias, cinerarias, mignonette, sweet alyssum, Chi¬ 
nese primroses, pansies, pelargoniums, clarkia, etc., m, 
1, to get up a stock for Winter bloom. 
Tender Plants, and some of those intended for early 
Winter bloom should be taken to the houses, 11, before 
chilly nights come on. 
Verbenas, Petunias, Geraniums, etc.—Laver and make 
cuttings, ff, m, for Winter flowering. Pot off those made 
last month. 
Water—Give abundantly inside, and to pots in the bor¬ 
der. Syringe the foliage and walls of the house both 
morning and evening, sprinkling the floors at the same 
time. 
Apiary Ibb Aisgaist, 
BY M. QU1NBY. 
If the weather is favorable, about the middle of this 
month, Buckwheat swarms may be expected in many 
sections. There is much more Buckwheat sown this 
season than usual, on account of frosts killing other crops, 
and these late swarms may be. numerous in proportion. 
These swarms when hived seldom get stores enough for 
Winter, and the old stock is left with a feeble colony that 
requires much extra care to pass the Winter safely. It is 
the best economy generally to take away the queen, and 
let the swarm return to the parent stock. To find her 
readily, take three or four empty hives—more would be 
still better—if these are not at hand, any boxes or meas¬ 
ures that will hold a few quarts may be used. With a 
dipper put a quart or so of bees into each ; turn them over 
to represent a hive ; raise one edge half an inch, that the 
bees may pass, and place them about tw o feet apart. The 
bees will soon begin to leave all, and assemble in the one 
containing the queen. As soon as it is ascertained which 
they enter, cover it to prevent the queen being found, 
when the search will soon be abandoned and the bees will 
return to the old hive. Look now among those lhat were 
covered for the queen ; if there are so many bees in the 
hive or box that she can not be found readily, shake them 
out and divide again, until so.few are left that she is easi¬ 
ly seen. The swarm will not issue again, till a young 
queen matures, and by that time these flowers are so far 
advanced that they seldom undertake it. But should they 
do so, they must be returned again, but in this case, no 
till next morning—for reasons that I will not take room 
now to explain.If any stock is yet unsupplied with a 
queen, and is uninjured by the worm, it might have the 
quoen and a few quarts of bees given it, in case of a swarm 
as atiove. Continue to watch stocks that have thin¬ 
ned their colonies by over swarming, for the appearance 
of the worms, and assist to get rid of them, as long as 
there is a prospect of saving the stock.. .. Young small 
swarms that have only partly filled their hives, will be in¬ 
fested with worms much more than larger ones. Keep 
the floor board of such swept off clean ; look into the cor¬ 
ners of the hive below' the combs for cocoons, they are 
readily scraped out. In turning back a hive for this pur¬ 
pose, which is not full, be cautious and turn it so as to 
have the edges of the combs rest on the side of the hive, 
otherwise they may break.. ..Continue to set sweetened 
water about the hives at evening to catch the moth.... 
Surplus boxes containing honey taken from the bees, to 
be kept till cool weather, must be in a dry place, if cool, 
all the better, as it will prevent the moth eggs hatching. 
If any should appear, the first indications will be white 
powder like lines on the surface of the combs; they must 
now, before they do much injury, be subjected to the 
fumes of brimstone. Make the matches by dipping rags 
or paper in melted sulphur—put a few pieces in an old 
cup in a close box or barrel, together with the boxes to 
be smoked—ignite the matches and cover close, and 
let them stand six or eight hours. 
■ . ■ i. ->-a»- 
Stone Drains. —In reply to the queries of N. 
N. Hartzell, Hancock Co., Ill., we answer: 
Ditches three and a-half to four and a half feet 
deep, partly filled with loose stones, the larger 
ones being laid at the bottom, will answer a very 
good purpose for draining during many years, 
and will also profitably dispose of the surplus 
stone upon the surface. But there is always 
danger of such drains being choked, and we ad¬ 
vise in all cases to construct a continuous open 
passage; unless the stones be so small and so 
round as to absolutely prevent this being done. 
