Oct., 1859 . 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
805 
better to give ail trees and plants abundant depth ; 
to prepare the soil under them so that they can 
send down roots where moisture will always 
abound, no matter how parched or dry the sur¬ 
face soil. To secure this it is advised to dig a 
large deep hole and till with rich surface soil. 
With a single, but very common exception, this 
rule is a good one. We refer to those localities 
where the subsoil is clay or hard-pan of so com¬ 
pact a texture as to retain water. Even on these 
the large-deep-hole method is best, if proper drain¬ 
age be provided ; but in most cases tree planters 
will not take this trouble or expense. If on such 
retentive soils the tree be planted in a deep mass 
of rich earth, its roots will be invited downwards, 
and they-will literally stand in a basin of water. 
We advise, therefore, that in planting trees, the 
soil in which they stand he loosened and prepared 
only to the depth to which it may be kept free 
from standing water. If a thin surface soil rests 
upon a retentive subsoil, break up the latter as 
deeply as possible by suhsoiling, and loosen it 
where the tree is to stand but little deeper than 
elsewhere. A deep porous soil is always best for 
fruit trees, but such a soil can not be found in 
every locality, and where not found, let it be imi¬ 
tated by preparing the soil at hand as deeply as 
may lie. If plowed nine or ten inches deep, and 
subsoiled six or seven, it will then be loosened 
fifteen or sixteen inches deep, and the hole for the 
tree may be made to that depth, filling it always 
with surface soil naturally rich, or made so by 
the addition of rotten manure, or muck, decayed 
leaves, etc. We have this week examined-apple 
and pear trees fifty to a hundred years and more 
old, which stood over a clay subsoil, but the roots 
were spread out in the surface soil thirty to sixty 
feet in every direction. Usually these old trees 
are found on limestone soils, loose and porous 
deeply down, and they are most frequent upon 
knolls, hillocks or slopes, having a dry, deep, 
loamy or stony subsoil. 
On wet soils good success has been attained by 
preparing the ground, setting the tree directly 
upon the surface—no hole being dug—and then 
placing soil around and upon the roots, up to the 
collar or point where the soil reached in the orig¬ 
inal locality. The tree then stands upon or in an 
artificial hillock, and sends its roots out into the 
dry surface soil thus prepared. A general rule 
may be stated thus : Plant the tree on as deep 
a soil as possible, but avoid putting it where its 
roots will be far down in a barren subsoil beyond 
the reach of air and warmth, surrounded with 
stagnant cold water. 
In transplanting all trees, they should usually 
be planted only as deep as they grew in their 
original positions. Heaping the earth around the 
trunk higher than this often proves fatal. In 
planting in holes, let there be ample room for the 
roots to be spread out naturally, and drop in the. 
loose soil around them, packing it down carefully. 
That Wonderful Tree in Oregon. 
Much was said, several years ago, about a new 
and beautiful tree, then lately discovered near 
Olympia, in Oregon. Travelers declared that it 
resembled the pear-tree somewhat in foliage, but 
had a clean, smooth trunk like the orange-tree. 
The upper side of the leaf was polished and a 
little oily to the touch, and the foliage was fra¬ 
grant, like bergamot. It had flowers resembling 
the white jessamine. The trunk, branches, fo¬ 
liage, and flowers were all such as to recommend 
it particularly for planting on highly- finished 
lawns and near the windows and doors of a house. 
One of its most remarkable characteristics was 
that it was an evergreen. A broad-leaved ever¬ 
green tree growing in a cold climate! It was 
said to be not a very common tree in tliat vicin¬ 
ity, and was not known to exist elsewhere. 
What has become of this famous tree 1 We 
have searched for it in a multitude of nursery 
catalogues, in vain. Has any one got it 1 If it 
actually possesses the excellences claimed for it, 
the nurseryman who should bring it out would 
realise a handsome fortune from its propagation 
and sale. 
-- ---*-W- 
Laying Out Grounds- 
Several months ago, we discoursed upon the 
“Choice of a Site” for a country home; and 
later, upon the “ Preparation of Ground ” for 
planting and building. We now propose to add a 
few words upon the Laying out of Grounds. 
And here, we frankly say, that if any one of 
our readers has no time or taste for such work, lie 
would do better to employ a professed landscape 
gardener to do it for him ; since all we can say 
will not supply so great a deficiency. But it. 
may be presumed that most of the readers of the 
Agriculturist have some tastes of this sort which 
they wish to cultivate, and that they consider 
their time well spent in improving their homes. 
For the sake of definiteness in our remarks, we 
will suppose that the grounds to be laid out, are 
from one acre to four or five acres in extent, such 
building-lots being common in the outskirts of our 
villages and towns, as well as on country farms. 
The position of the house within the premises 
will be determined somewhat by circumstances. 
If there is a rise of ground upon it, only a short 
distance from the street, that will undoubtedly 
be the best spot for the house, because it will af¬ 
ford good drainage and a good view of the sur¬ 
rounding country. If the ground is level, the 
A, Fruits— H, Vegetable Garden— C, C, C, Ornamental 
Grounds— D, D, Hedges— E, Stable— H, House. 
house may be set near the street and near one 
corner, so as to devote the other.side to orna¬ 
mental planting, and the rear to fruit trees and 
kitchen garden ; or it may be set near the middle 
of the front line, but retired several rods from the 
street. The sketches herewith may just indicate 
the two styles. The first (fig 1) is quite common 
among the English, the other (fig. 2) prevails 
more in this country. Whatever method is chosen 
there are certain general principles always to be 
regarded. 
First, it is important to give one’s house and 
the premises an air of protection and seclusion. 
If they are swept by every rough gale in Winter 
and Summer, and if they are open on all sides to 
the gaping curiosity of every passer-by, they are 
sadly wanting in some of the important features 
of a home. Therefore, let the place be encircled 
with trees and shrubbery, deciduous and ever¬ 
green commingled—not stiff rows like a battallion 
of soldiers, but waving lines, now running up 
close to the boundaries, and now out into the 
premises, now high trees, and now low, and ol 
all sorts together, just as they are seen in natur¬ 
al landscapes. We by no means, advise the plant¬ 
ing of trees so as to hide any desirable views ol 
neighboring scenery. Set them thickest where 
there are no views worth saving, and where there 
are offensive objects visible, and where the winds 
blow most violently. Even on those sides where 
the views are finest, they may be skillfully set so 
as to form picture-frames for the landscape. For 
it should be remembered that a fine view is more 
striking when seen through a vista of grand trees 
in the foreground, than when it lies unrelieved, in 
one fiat, monotonous scene. Nor, let it be for¬ 
Fig. 2. 
1. House—2. Fruits—3. Vegetable Garden—4. 4. 4, Orna 
mental Grounds—5, 5, Hedges—6, Sutble. 
gotten that a house and grounds are more inter¬ 
esting to the spectator, when seen only in snatch¬ 
es and at favorable points, than when all is spread 
open to the sight at once, for the imagination al¬ 
ways pictures greater beauty in what is conceal¬ 
ed. It is an excellent plan to surround one’s 
premises with a hedge, to be kept the usual higlit 
of a fence. Il'ihe right kind of hedge plant is 
chosen, it will often be more economical than any 
other kind of fence. It is at least very desirable 
on the score of taste, as it may be so managed 
as to conceal the exact limits of one's premises, 
and to give an appearance of indefinite extent to 
the pleasant scene it encloses. To secure this 
effect, flowering shrubs and low trees should be 
set, here and there, in masses near the line of the 
’hedge, to relieve its stiffness. 
Having planned the boundaries, let us now take 
another step. A carriage road and a walk will 
be needed from the street to the house, and to 
the garden and out-houses in the rear. Walks 
may also be wanted to lead to a flower-garden, 
and to other parts of the ornamental grounds. As 
a general rule, these should not he laid in straight 
lines, because they will not harmonize with the 
graceful forms of the foliage, nor with the gener¬ 
al air of ease and freedom of gardenesque scenes. 
And besides, if the carriage road is to be used fre¬ 
quently for heavy teams, it will, if straight, be 
more liable to be cut up into ruts, than one which 
is a little curved. (A little reflection will show 
why this is so) Yet even straight roads and 
walks are more sensible than the zig-zag, per¬ 
petually winding lines sometimes seen in fash¬ 
ionable grounds. Both extremes should be 
avoided. Of course, these roads and walks 
should be made thoroughly. It will not answer 
to spread a little gravel over a rich mold full ot 
the roots and seeds ol weeds, to he a perpetual 
annoyance to the proprietor. The top soil should 
he taken off, at least six inches deep, the space 
filled with old bricks, or cobble, <'r broken stone 
