J aly 10, 1890. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
37 
and there may a glut of Peas shortly. Readers often ask, “ Do you con¬ 
sider this a good season for Peas and other crops'?” and as regards the 
early Peas at least the reply is not the best. Some who have omitted 
to sow their late Peas may be encouraged to know that we are this 
week sowing several rows of our latest. Should the autumn prove 
unfavourable these may not be very remunerative, but if good they will 
yield freely in October and probably November. 
Winter Greens. —These are not all planted out. Like many others 
we are deficient of space. Some large quarters of Brussels Sprouts, 
Savoys, and Broccoli have been put out, but not in sufficient quantities 
to keep up with our demand, and as the plants are inclined to become 
tall and to be spoiled in the seed beds, the largest will at once be drawn 
out and planted a few inches apart in spare corners. The planting will 
check them a little, they will soon assume a more sturdy form, and they 
will be in good order for planting out in their bearing quarters by the 
time early Potatoes, Turnips, and Peas are cleared off. That will be 
towards the end of July, which is not too late to plant out the last 
crops. 
Pests. —These have been somewhat troublesome ; snails have been 
destructive to the young Greens, the Turnip fly on the Turnips, while 
some of the Savoys, Cauliflowers, &c., have lost their centres, the plants 
in consequence becoming “ blind.” Our only remedy for all is to dust 
the plants frequently with fresh lime or soot. 
Cauliflower and Broccoli for Autumn.— These are distinct 
from the summer or winter varieties, and like many others we have 
ceased to experiment with other sorts, and now confine our culture to 
Veitch’s Autumn Giant Cauliflower and Self-protecting Autumn 
Broccoli. The Cauliflower is a useful one for the end of summer, but 
particularly so in September and October, and all who desire a certain 
supply of heads at that time should place out plenty of plants at 
present. It takes them from three to four months to form heads, and 
when they once begin to “ turn in,” the same plants will furnish heads 
for six weeks or two months. The Broccoli is equally useful, as it heals 
with unvarying regularity in November, and when the frost is not too 
severe it is in season all through December, and for November and 
December it may always be relied on. It requires a little longer to 
produce flowers than the Cauliflower, but if both are planted together 
early in July they will follow each other in giving a supply. Both pro¬ 
duce large heads in heavy rich soil, but medium-sized heads are often 
more valued, and these may be grown in light soil, with the plants at a 
distance of 18 inches from each other. 
Carrot and Onion Grub. —Of late we have noticed Carrots and 
Onions a little yellow in the foliage. This is a sure indication that the 
grubs are beginning to attack the roots, and prompt efforts should be 
made to check this before they are in full possession of the crop. We 
have had considerable experience and annoyance in former years with 
this, and after trying every imaginable remedy, nothing equalled gas 
lime in stopping the plague and allowing the plants to resume their 
perfect growth. The gas lime should be sifted fine and sprinkled 
between the rows and over the top of the plants. We neither measure 
nor weigh it, but sprinkle it on at a rate we regard as safe, applying 
it rather thin, and repeating the application if necessary. 
Turnips for Autumn. —Much of the Turnip seed sown in the 
spring produces plants that develop a seed stem before the roots have 
grown much, but this rarely occurs with autumn Turnips, and if a large 
quarter is sown now to give a supply in September the same will 
remain sound and good until well into winter. Yeitch’s Red Globe or 
Carter’s Jersey Lily are excellent varieties for present sowing. The 
latter is one of the most handsome Turnips in cultivation and one of the 
best for exhibition. The soil for the present sowings must not be too 
sandy, but moderately well warmed. We have sown 1 lb. of seed to-day 
on a piece of ground just cleared of spring Spinach and Potatoes. The 
soil was merely forked over without adding manure, and the rows opened 
at 1 foot apart. 
Vegetable Marrows and Ridge Cucumbers.— These have not 
taken kindly to their mounds this year. The weather has been too sun¬ 
less of late for them. This causes them to produce a thin flabby growth 
of a most unfruitful kind, and the plants intended to produce early 
fruits of both should either have their main shoots tied up to stakes or 
place some Pea stakes or latticework under them to keep them up from 
the damp cold ground. If dry air can reach the flowers when they 
are open the fruit will set, but if the flowers are under large leaves and 
in the shade, or exposed in such a way that the rain fills them, week 
after week will pass without a fruit forming. Keep the shoots 
freely thinned, and if the plants are later than usual, try and place 
a frame and light over some of them for a few weeks, to secure early 
fruits. 
Leeks. —The main crop of these should be planted out. Although 
of little importance now, they are extremely useful as winter vegetables, 
and after a severe winter they are often amongst the few crops that have 
survived. Then they are acceptable on the best tables. In private 
gardens there is often a deficiency of them, and they should be planted 
more extensively. Large specimens, such as are seen at shows, are not 
the best for standing a severe winter. Plants that some would consider 
small are the best, and these are of a suitable size for cooking whole. 
Do not, therefore, dig deep trenches for the main crop of Leeks, but 
apply manure to a piece of ground, dig it, and open drills 3 inches deep 
and 12 inches apart. Into these dibble the Leeks at a distance of 
6 inches apart, and the result will be a useful crop. 
IHBJBEE 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Tiie Weather. 
The weather during the past week has been more wintry than- 
ever. With the exception of Sunday, the 29th June, sunshine has 
never been more than of a few minutes duration. On that day the 
sun shone for about twelve hours, but a little east and west of us 
the thunder rolled and the rain poured in deluges. Rain has fallen 
more or less every day since the 4 th of May. It is the wettest 
season I ever experienced, and probably the lowest temperature. 
On Friday, the 27th June, the temperature rose suddenly from 
55° to 65° for a few minutes, then sank as suddenly to 48°, when a 
storm of hail came on with the strong north wind. July the 4th 
was dull, but more genial than since June came in. The tem¬ 
perature rose for about five minutes on the 1st to 70°, but at 
other times was between 50° and 60°. The barometer is now 
standing at 29’50°, but I dare not predict what the next hour will 
be. The Poppies and other flowers have expanded, which gives us 
hope that an improvement in the weather is near. These short 
glimpses of sunshine induce the young queens to take a flight, but 
the drones are not so venturesome, and are becoming rapidly 
fewer in number by the bees killing them. This has continued 
since the middle of May, and why is it ? Have the bees the fore¬ 
knowledge of the coming weather for weeks to come ? Theii? 
conduct seems to point to this, and the same has been observed by 
many people and for many years ; even those hives that made much 
weight from the Sycamores are no exception, nor whether the 
queens are fertile or not. We know that bees apprehend the 
coming storm for some days previous to it, and everything goes to 
prove they know what is coming for weeks together. 
The wet weather is telling seriously on all crops, and without 
an improvement and feeding most bees will become extinct-. 
Probably, however, it is doing good for time to come by the 
extermination of many moths, and caterpillars may not be so 
numerous as they have been. Although the mercury is low, whil® 
I write the aspect of the sky is brighter, the bees are venturing 
out, and if we had a little more heat and sunshine than we have 
had all would be benefited thereby. 
Do Bees Pay ? 
We answer the question in the affirmative, but not in the sense 
that our contemporaries have taught, that bees will “ pay ” with 
honey selling at from 3d. to “ Gd. per lb. ; ” nor dare I support 
the statement that “ £7 can be made on an average annually from 
one hive.” While encouraging all w 7 ho have an opportunity to 
keep bees, I must specially warn them against starting bee¬ 
keeping on an expensive and extensive scale. I have evidence 
before me of more than one who has made a good deal of money, 
but it has been from bee-keepers, and not from the bees. There 
is as much in saving as in earning, and bee-keepers as well as 
others might study this to their advantage. One of the first 
lessons is important. I give it cheerfully and gratis. Put more 
confidence in yourself and in your own doings than in those who 
pose as benefactors. By practising that you will be the gainers. 
One dealer and writer to the press on bee matters advises “ all to 
keep bees.” If one in a hundred were to start bee-keeping on 
the lines he proposes they would never get a drop of honey, or 
if they did it would be at an enormous expense. Ample informa¬ 
tion is given in these pages to enable anyone to start bee-keeping; 
with little outlay at first, and but little expense after if the beu 
keeper only exercises a little forethought and judgment. 
Tiie Shallow Hive. 
The hive I have used so long, and which has been claimed 
by so many, is not only the best hive for every phase of bee- 
-KEEPER. 
