54 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
T July 17,181». 
the ovules partook of identically the same character as the excrescences 
on the Cabbage leaves—viz., cups, funnel-shaped structures and foliar 
expansions. Such appears to explain the origin of ovules as being the 
outgrowths from the hypertrophied margins (placentas) of carpellary 
leaves. 
Plants Exhibited. —Sir Trevor Lawrence sent Bulbophyllum grandi- 
florum and Sarcopodium psittacoglossum, for which a botanical certi¬ 
ficate was unanimously awarded. A liliaceous plant with dark coloured 
flowers and two new species of Lily were sent by Mr. Ware. They 
were forwarded to Kew to be named. 
HINTS ON FORCING STRAWBERRIES. 
In some gardens Strawberries must be forced in vineries and Peach 
houses, whilst in others houses are specially provided. Fruit is required 
usually from February to June, but the great months for forced Straw¬ 
berries are April and May. Varieties.—1, To start before the new year for 
the earliest crops, La Grosse Sucrde and Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury. 
2, To start at the new year for second early crops, Auguste Nicaise and 
Laxton’s Noble. 3, To start by the middle of February for midseason 
crops, Sir Joseph Paxton and Sir Charles Napier. 4, To start in early 
March for late crops, British Queen and Dr. Hogg. For affording a full 
supply for a large establishment from March to June inclusive, I find 
1000 plants of Sir Joseph Paxton, and 500 of each of those named 
necessary. That is a minimum, as besides those strong contingents are 
also grown Sir Harry, President, and James Veitch. 
Sir Joseph Paxton has a bad character for mildew ; it always 
redered us excellent service. Sir Charles Napier is considered by some 
too “ sharp.” A substitute for Sir Joseph Paxton is provided in Auguste 
Nicaise, and for Sir Charles Napier in Noble. Auguste Nicaise is the 
brighter fruit, but both crop freely, and are fair in quality. 
Selecting Runners. —Never take a runner off a non-fruiting plant, 
and always select the first runners. Old runners, as a rule, are late and 
weak. 
Rooting Runners. —The best methods are two—viz., 1, In 3-inch 
pots firmly filled with good soil, in inverted turves of about 3 inches 
square, and a little less depth, and when well rooted transfer to the 
fruiting pots. 2, Layer at once into the fruiting pots. I prefer the 
former plan. The pots or turves being placed in suitable position half 
plunged or sunk, make an indent in the centre about half an inch deep, 
place the base of the runner therein, secure with a peg—galvanised wire 
20 guage, cut into 3-inch lengths, doubled similar to a hair pin, are best 
—and supply water at once, afterwards giving careful attention to 
induce the runners to root quickly. If layered in the fruiting pots 
leave them attached to the parent plants until thoroughly established ; 
those in small pots should be detached as soon as the pots are well filled 
with roots, and be placed on moist ashes in a shady place for a few days. 
Those layered on turves may be treated similarly, only as they do not 
make as much leaf growth, being harder with more fibrous roots, they 
may be transferred to the fruiting pots at once—that is, after they 
become well rooted. These invariably develop good crowns, and crop 
as well or better than those with a larger display of leaves. 
Pots. —For early forcing 5-inch pots are ample; 6-inch pots are a 
useful size for successional or late plants. Ordinarily 7-inch pots are 
best for late forcing, as the plants have more time to make roots and 
perfect a good crown. Some growers place two plants in 8-inch pots, 
and three in 9-inch pots. The pots should be clean inside and out. 
Hard are preferable to soft pots, as the former keep clean longer. 
Compost. —Turfy loam, rather strong and well filled with fibre, 
should form the staple. It should only have been laid up sufficiently 
long to destroy the herbage. This will be rich enough without manure 
unless poor, when a fifth part horse manure may be added ; but rich 
soil only favours a luxuriant crop of leaves. Break the turf up with the 
hand, or chop it into pieces of an inch or two square ; add to every three 
bushels a quart each dry wood ashes, soot, and dissolved bone (super¬ 
phosphate). Have the soil moderately dry. When wet it hinders the 
work, forms a soapy mass, hardening afterwards into brick-like substance, 
shrinking from the sides of the pots. 
Potting. —The hole in the pots must be three-quarters inch in 
diameter ; less is useless, larger unnecessary. One large crock, so as to 
extend over the hole, and concave side downwards, with three or four 
larger pieces of a little less size to form a layer over it, and then a thin 
layer of small pieces, sifted so as to remove the dust, or better a thin 
layer of steamed half-inch bones ; 1 inch to 1J inch depth for the 
smaller size of pot, and 14 inch for the larger size, is ample drainage. 
An oyster shell convave side down over the hole, some crushed bones 
(steamed) make capital drainage. 
Place enough of the rough compost in the pots, and ram it firmly 
with a potting stick about 9 inches long, having the soil half to three- 
quarters of an inch below the rim. 
Situation for the Plants. —Place them on a layer of ashes 6 to 9 inches 
thick, fully exposed to the sun. Shelter from winds, afforded by hedges 
or walls, not so near as to shade, is desirable. If the plants stand just 
clear it will be sufficient at first, but in about three weeks’ time from 
potting they will require placing a foot or 18 inches apart. 
Watering. —When the soil is becoming dry, and before the foliage 
flags, a thorough supply of water must be given. Examine them for 
this purpose frequently. Syringe the foliage in the evening of hot days. 
Remove all runners as soon as they show a joint. Weeds must not be 
tolerated ; but keep the soil free from moss. 
Removing Side Crowns.— Some varieties, especially Vicomtesse 
Hericart de Thury, form side crowns, and unless they are removed the 
central one is weakened. Take care in removing them not to injure the 
central bud or damage the leaves. All varieties are the best looked 
over not later than the early part of September where fine fruits are 
desired. 
Wintering. —By the middle of October the early varieties must be 
placed in pits or frames, and plunged to the rims of the pots. The 
lights need only be used in case of heavy rains, then tilted top and 
bottom, and in case of snow and frost. Whenever the temperature is 
about 35° outside withdraw the lights. All that is wanted is rest with¬ 
out heavy rains, snow, and severe frosts. Midseason plants should be 
plunged to the rim in ashes in a sheltered situation. In very severe 
weather protect them with a little dry soft straw. Late planes require 
similar treatment to the last named. Ail plants must be in their winter 
quarters before severe weather. Letting the roots get frozen in the pots 
is only courting disaster. 
Treatment of Fruiting Strawberries. 
Suitabli Structures. —These should be light, well ventilated, having 
sufficient hot-water pipes to maintain a temperature of 70° to 75° with¬ 
out hard firing. They must be provided with stages or shelves to keep 
the plants near the glass. The foliage can hardly be too near the glass 
without touching it, but they will not take harm at a distance o-f 
3 feet provided they have unobstructed light. Air is essential, and if it 
reach the plants below or above them it is preferable to coming directly 
upon them sideways. Shelves in vineries and Peach houses are not the 
best of places, but much can be effected by such means by removing 
the plants as the structures accord in temperature, <&c., with the require¬ 
ments of the Strawberries in their different stages. To force Straw¬ 
berries well two structures are required, so that a succession can be- 
maintained, as up to setting they do not require a high temperature,, 
but after the fruit is fairly swelling they need a good - heat with« 
corresponding moisture, which can hardly be accorded to Peach houses- 
and vineries without prejudice to the Peaches and Grapes. 
Preparing for Forcing. —A clean house is necessary. The glass 
clear, the woodwork well cleanssd or painted, the brickwork lime- 
washed. Plants for starting in November for the earliest crops must 
be in the frames early in October, and as they will be removed by the 
middle of November others can take their place for starting later. Pt 
is well in all cases to have the plants a month or six weeks in frames- 
preparatory to their being introduced to artificial heat. 
Remove decayed leaves, avoiding close trimming, and retain all green 
foliage. Rectify the drainage if defective. If worms are in the soil 
stop the base of the pots with clay, and soak with lime water. The 
worms will be expelled, and the drainage can then be put right. Wash 
the pots, surface dress the soil with fresh horse manure rubbed through- 
a seive. Turfy loam being similarly treated, with a quart of Thomson’s 
manure added to every bushel is first rate. The plants must have room* 
on the shelves for the expansion of their foliage without crowding. 
Temperature. —Commence with 45° to 50° as the artificial tempera¬ 
ture. Raise it in the course of a fortnight to 50° to 55° by artificial 
•means, the former the night, the latter the day temperature. Let it 
fall 5° on cold nights, but get the heat up to the artificial day tempera¬ 
ture by 8 A.M., or an hour after daybreak, or if cold and dull 5° less 
may be allowed through the day. With sun allow an advance to 60° on 
cloudy days, with occasional clear intervals, 65° with about as much 
sun as cloud alternating, and to 70° with a clear sky, in all cases closing 
so early as to advance 5° on temperatures indicated. When the fruit 
is set slightly increase the temperature, advancing 5° in the course of a 
week, and 5° more in the course of a fortnight, which wiil bring the 
night temperature up to 60° or 65°, and the fruit will then be advanced 
in swelling, and bear a much higher temperature. This stage of the 
fruit being reached, and the crop having to be finished in the same 
house, the night temperature should be kppt at 65°, falling 5° on cold 
nights, and ruling 5° higher on warm nights, 70 3 to 75° by day from fire 
heat, and 80° to 90° through the day from sun heat. This can be con¬ 
tinued until the fruit begins to ripen, when a temperature of 60° to 65° 
at night and 70° to 75° by day will be all that is necessary, admitting 
air more liberally. The fruit is found to have better flavour than when 
ripened in a hot and moist atmosphere. 
Ventilation. —Until growth is commencing little air will be required 
except when the temperature reaches the day limit. Closing should be- 
effected sufficiently early to raise the heat 5° above the maximum day 
temperature. Ventilate slightly at the top before nightfall, and let it 
remain on constantly except when the house is closed in the afternoon. 
This procedure is to be adopted througnout the whole of the forcing 
period with but two exceptions—when the plants are flowering and 
when the fruit is ripening. At those times a circulation of air should 
be maintained constantly. 
Watering. —The plants should be attended to once a day in the- 
early stages of growth, two or three times a day when they are in free 
growth and their crop swelling. After the fruit begins to ripen water 
should only be given to prevent the foliage flagging. AT water used 
should be tepid, a few degrees warmer than the house. 
Syringing. —Syringe the plants morning and afternoon up to the 
flowering period, the exceptions are when the weather is cold and dull 
and Hie foliage does not become fairly dry before night. A gentle even 
sprinkling is best. In dull weather damping available surfaces in the 
morning and afternoon will be sufficient. Avoid saturating the flowers, 
ceasing \yhen the flowers are fully expanded. After flowering have 
recourse to syringing again in the morning and afternoon, discontinuing 
it as soon as the fruit gives the least indications of ripening. Water on 
