July ?, U9C. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
13 
period of two or three weeks, will insure immunity from scorching and 
sca'ding if not from the equally disastrous shanking, if the weather 
be very bright a slight shade over the roof lights is very beneficial, a 
double thickness of herring nets afEording all the shade required. 
Grapes Swelling .—Afford every encouragement; nothing assists so 
much as a genial condition of the atmosphere, which should be secured 
by a gentle warmth in the pipes, and sprinkling available surfaces in 
the morning and afternoon, particularly the latter, the border being 
mulched with a little short rather fresh lumpy stable manure, additions 
being made from time to time, so as to insure a supply of ammonia to 
the atmosphere and nitrogenous matter for washing into the soil each 
time water is required. The mulching being kept moist will aid in 
keeping the atmosphere moist, and a never failing attraction of the 
roots, but avoid a close, saturated, vitiated atmosphere, above all times in 
close, moist, dull weather. A little ventilation almost constantly will 
make all safe, but it is desirable to close the house in the afternoon, 
well damping at the same time, allowing the temperature to rise to 
90° or 95°, and aft jr the sun passes the west or at six o’clock, provide a 
little at the top of the house. It will al'owof the air changing, prevent 
excessive deposition of moisture through the night, whereby the foliage 
will not be so liable to be scalded or scorched should the sun act power¬ 
fully on it whilst wet through ventilation not being given early enough 
to expel it ; indeed, the great cause of scorching is inattention to early 
ventilation. A night temperature of 65° is ample, advancing early in the 
day to 70° to 75°, having recourse to artificial means if necessary. Increase 
the ventilation between 70° and 75°, allowing it to advance to 80° or 85°, 
between which keep through the day, and close as before stated to rise 
to 90° to 95°. Permit a steady growth in the laterals, it keeps the roots 
active, but avoid overcrowding, not allowing the laterals on any account 
to interfere with the principal leaves, so as to deprive them of light and 
air—the elaborating and storing of food in the buds at their base, those 
being the pruning buds. The outside borders should not be neglected 
where the rainfall is insufficient, and a mulching of fresh lumpy stable 
manure will lessen evaporation without depriving the soil of the bene¬ 
ficial action of air, warmth, and the moisture of dew and rain. 
Cucumbers. —Attention must be given to plants in full bearing by 
way of thinning out the exhausted growths and foliage, laying in young 
bearing wood, stopping one joint beyond the fruit, and earthing the 
roots periodically. Copious supplies of water or liquid manure will be 
required about twice a week or as may be necessary, but avoid applying 
it too strong. Syringe at closing time, and maintain a good moisture 
all day long by sprinkling available surfaces as necessary, and always 
with tepid water, attending to it more frequently in hot weather than 
when dull. Do not overcrop young plants, and do not allow the fruit 
to hang too long, as upon attention to this depends in a measure a good 
and continuous supply. A few seeds may now be sown for a late summer 
and early autumn supply of fruit. They will germinate and the 
seedlings be fit to plant in about a month. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Cyclamen .—Plants that are ripening their seed must not be allowed 
to become dry. Gather the seed daily as it ripens, and place the seed 
pods in a shallow box on a shelf where they can be exposed to the sun. 
Seedlings raised early in the year and then placed into pans and boxes 
will be ready for transferring into 2^-inch pots. After potting, place 
these close to the glass where they can enjoy a moist base and not be 
too shaded. Nothing is gained by trying to hurry the plants, better 
results will follow a dwarf sturdy growth. If kept too close the foliage 
is drawn up weakly, and the plants seldom do well afterwards. Plants 
raised last August and September that are dwarf, sturdy, and well 
established in 2J-inch pots should be placed without delay into 4 and 
5-inch size. These will seem large for the plants at first, but by careful 
attention and good treatment they will soon increase in size and make 
bold large foliage. Be careful not to allow the plants to become dry 
after potting, and syringe them two or three times daily. If the 
structure in which they are grown runs north and south no shading 
will be needed. Give liberal ventilation when the sun is hot, and if the 
plants display signs of distress syringe tl.em. 
Bouvardias .—Old plants that were cut back and started in heat 
should be in their largest pots and then graduilly hardened and placed 
outside. In any locality where they do well planted out place them 
on a sunny open border, after they have been thoroughly hardened, 
1 foot or 15 inches apart, according to the size of the plants. Place 
those raised from roots early in the y( ar into 5, 6, and 7-inch 
pots according to their size. If these plants have been well 
cared for they will have pushed up freely from the base. Stop any 
shoots that are taking the lead. Plants raised from cuttings needed for 
decorative purposes must be stopped when the shoots have made two 
joints to induce bushy liitle plants, these shoul 1 be in 5-inch pots. Any 
shoots that spring from the base should be stopped just below those of a 
weaker nature. 
Solanums .— Cut-back plants have commenced flowering freely. 
These should occupy a frame where abundance of light and air can be 
admitted. This will insure the fruits setting if the plants are given plenty 
of water at their roots, but the foliage must not be syringed. Plants raised 
from cuttings early will be bushy little plants in 3-inch pots. Tlace 
these in 5-inch and giadually harden them to cool airy treatment. Do 
not pinch them after they are potted, but allow them to flower and set 
their berries. Solanums do well in loam, sand, and one-seventh of 
manure. Pot the plants firmly. 
Cinerarias .—The earliest plants may be placed into 5 and 6-inch 
pots. Arrange them in a cold frame, and do not vershade them. 
Smaller plants may be placed i ito 60’s (3-inch), while later ones may be 
pricked into pans an I boxes 2 inches apart. A little more seed may be 
sown in a cool house or frame. 
Calceolarias .—Seed can be sown without delay. Fill a pan with 
light soil, fine and even on the surface, and then sow seed. Do not 
cover it, but water gently with a fine-rose can. Cover the pan with a 
square of glass, and shade until the seed germinates. When the plants 
are large enough prick them off into pans or boxes, and grow the 
plants perfectly cool in a frame with a northern aspect. 
Begonias. —Those intended for autumn and winter flowering should 
be repotted as they need more root room, and grown in cold frames. 
Abundance of air must be admitted during the day, closing the frame- 
early, so that the temperature will rise considerably by sun heat. Do 
not overshade these plants, they will bear more sunshine than is- 
generally given them. Begonias are frequently overshaded. They need 1 
very little shade, and then only of the lightest nature if plenty of air 
is admitted when the sun is bright. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Weather. 
The flowers are advancing, but the weather does not improve- 
On the morning of the 26th June our thermometer registered 35° 
Fahr., and in lower lying places the grass was stiff: and white. 
Only once has the thermometer been above 70°, and while I am 
writing at midday, June 27th, it is standing at 55°, but is rising. 
We are having more sunshine, but heavier downpours of rain. By 
the time this appears in print we shall have entered a new and the- 
last month for Clover honey, and not a super on yet. When the- 
barometer is high it is cold and rainy without sunshine ; when low, 
cloudy with intervals of sunshine, but of short duration. For 
three days the bees, anxious to gather from the profusion of 
flowers, have gathered a little honey, but not more than will keep* 
them alive. It is to be hoped there will be some favoured spots- 
where the bees will have revelled in sunshine and plenty, but from; 
everywhere I hear the accounts are dismal. Our own stocks and 
others are farther back than they were more than two months ago. 
Swarming. 
This may be expected out of season as it was in the autumn of 
1889, so provision must be made to prevent loss of swarms. There 
are various ways of treating hives which have swarmed at the 
moors, but as strength accompanies large honey gatherings, perhaps 
the best thing to do is to remove the old queen. After a few days 
examine the combs and destroy all royal cells, unless one appears to 
contain a queen, because many cells, although sealed, are empty. 
A proper cell is easily known by the extra attention which the bees 
pay to it. These young queens must not, however, be relied upon, 
as they may not become fertile. Every effort should be made now 
to secure the proper number of queens, so that they may be 
fertilised before July is out. My young queens are flying for the 
first time to-day. The variable seasons we have experienced 
enable us to understand things better than those who have been 
bee-keepers but a short time. Beginners should take note of all 
that passes, and particularly the phases of swarming; it will 
dispel the idea that extra room, super or nadir, will prevent 
swarming. Crowding is a cause, but is but one of many causes. 
With the rise in temperature while I am writing, the air is in a 
roar with drones and bees, quite delightful to see and hear, every 
hive being in better condition than another, and a great deal more- 
so than might have been expected after so long a time of cold, 
sunless, and ungenial weather. 
A very few days of similar weather will in all likelihood give- 
us more swarms than we wish, but all will be kept off, and as far 
as practicable two joined together, and after young queens we shall- 
turn our attention to creating strong hives for the Heather. Im 
ordinary cases we would have supered some days since, but the,- 
weather will not justify the proceeding. 
Punic Bees. 
All our hives being nearly equal in strength, two weeks’ fine- 
weather would enable us to test the Punic race. They have, so- 
far as the season has gone, given us satisfaction. All we need now 
to prove them as to their abilities for honey gathering is settled 
weather of several weeks’ duration. Everything in the shape of 
agriculture, horticulture, and the apiary requires it. We earnestly 
hope July will bring a favourable change, and brighten the spirits 
and fill the l arris and the pockets of the husbandmen. 
