August 7, 1890. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
125 
Suckers started in June will soon fill their pots with roots, and must 
be shifted into larger pots before the roots become closely matted 
together. Queens may have 9 and 10-inch pots, and those of stronger 
growth 11-inch pots. Water immediately after potting, and plunge in a 
bed having a temperature of 90° to 93°. There is no greater mistake in 
growing Pines than crowding young plants. The plants become drawn 
and weakly, instead of having a sturdy base. Attend to the bottom heat 
of beds that have recently been disturbed by the removal of plants, 
not allowing the heat to exceed 95° at the base of the pots without 
immediately raising them, as too much heat will disastrously affect 
plants with fruit or those having the pots filled with roots. Examine 
the plants about twice a week, and maintain a moist well-ventilated 
atmosphere. The climatic conditions are now so favourable that Pine 
plants grow luxuriantly ; therefore, discontinue any shading such as may 
have been employed for an hour or two at mid-day, when the sun was 
powerful. Admit air plentifully when the temperature ranges from 85° 
to 95°, affording to fruiting plants a night temperature of 70° to 75° and 
succession 65° to 70° at night. Reserve another batch of suckers on 
the stocks for starting at the commencement of September. 
Figs. — Early-forced Trees in Pots. —As soon as the second crop is 
cleared examine the trees, keeping them somewhat drier at the roots, and 
the drier condition of the atmosphere, consequent on a free circulation 
of air, tends to an increase of red spider and scale. Those pests are in¬ 
separable from Fig culture in heated houses. Still, the enemies steal a 
march whenever they get the chance, as cannot well be prevented 
during the ripening of the fruit ; therefore, when that is cleared off the 
trees recourse must be had to cleansing ; and as the foliage and wood are 
far advanced in ripening, destructive agents may be used at a strength 
which would not be safe earlier. If, therefore, these pests, and espe¬ 
cially scale, have made undesirable progress, syringe the trees with some 
insecticide, of which there are many advertised, and all good when the 
instructions are strictly followed. The mixture may be kept from 
saturating the roots by tying a handful of dry moss round the stem and 
then raising a sort of pyramid of the same placed about the plants. 
Badly infested wood should be brushed to dislodge scale, and repeat the 
syringing in a few days ; afterwards sponge thoroughly with tepid 
water. The trees will not need much further attention, but watering 
must be attended to, so as to prevent the foliage becoming limp, venti¬ 
lating to the fullest extent day and night; but protect the trees from 
heavy rains, which have a tendency to keep the roots active, instead of 
inducing that rest so necessary for trees subjected to early forcing. 
Placing trees outdoors, as formerly practised, is not desirable, as the air 
moisture causes growth, whilst trees kept under glass have complete rest 
through dryness. If placed outdoors they must be in a sunny position, 
the pots stood on a layer of ashes, with similar material about them ; and 
though the trees must not suffer from dryness, material must be in readi¬ 
ness to apply so as to throw off heavy rain, in order to prevent the soil 
becoming sodden. Whether kept under g'ass or placed outdoors they 
cannot have too much light and air. 
Early Forced Planted-ant Fig Trees. —Second crops ripening will 
need a circulation of air constantly, more, of course, by day than at night. 
If dull weather prevail a gentle heat in the pipes makes a great difference 
in the quality of the fruit, and prevents splitting. Watering at the roots 
must be diminished, syringing discontinued, but a moderate air moisture 
must be allowed for the benefit of the foliage. A light sprinkling of 
available surfaces will afford the needful moisture for the benefit of the 
foliage. If red spider is present, heat the pipes to over 140°, or so hot 
that the hand cannot endure the heat, and then coat them with a thin 
wash of sulphur and skim milk, keeping the house closed for an hour or 
two, then allow che pipes to cool and admit air as usual. By close 
gathering the fruit syringing may be resorted to, but it is a bad 
expedient, as a free circulation of warm rather dry air is essential to 
perfection in Figs, and it acts beneficially on the foliage and wood. 
Unheated Houses. —In all but favoured locations and exceptional seasons 
Fig crops cannot be relied on outdoors. Glass structures for entrap¬ 
ping and retaining sun heat are indispensable, lean-to structures with a 
southern aspect are best. Success also depends on restriction. Roots 
allowed to ramble far and deep cater too freely, are not amenable 
to control. Narrow borders one-third the width of the tree3 are ample, 
well drained, and 18 inches to 2 feet deep. That depth of compost will 
grow more fruit than greater areas. Calcareous matter is essential. 
Where natural calcareous loam does not obtain, old mortar rubbish to 
the extent of a sixth will supply calcic matter in a useful form, or chalk 
may be used with an addition of one-sixth of road scrapings. Figs like 
lime, also grit, hence marl is a useful application, and for light soils may 
be used to the extent of a fourth, but it must be a clay marl. The soil 
must also be firm, not a caked impervious mass, but such that air and 
water can enter gradually : this will ensure steady supplies of nutrition, 
and short-jointed wood. Unobstructed light and free ventilation are 
principles in securing Figs of the choicest description, careful atten¬ 
tion being given to details of culture ; one of the most important is 
watering through a mulch of rather lumpy manure. Thin the growths 
so as to ensure solidified wood through the assimilation of matter 
elaborated in the leaves fully exposed to light. The finest fruit is 
had on extensions kept renewed by cutting out worn out and replacing 
with young. The fruit now is advanced for ripening, therefore spare 
no pains in freeing of red spider by syringing in the morning and early 
afternoon. Admit a little air early, increasing it with the sun heat, 
maintaining through the day a temperature of 80° to 85° with free 
ventilation, closing early so as to increase to 90° or 95°, and when the 
sun power is declining a little air may be admitted at the top of the 
house, so as to allow the pent-up moisture to escape, the temperature 
gradually cooling. Water or liquid manure will be required once 
or twice a week, according to circumstances, in order to keep- the soil 
moist and supply nutrition. Directly the fruit begins to ripen s-yringing 
must cease, water be gradually diminished at the roots,a circulation of air 
secured constantly, freely ventilating when favourable, and husbanding 
sun heat, not by closing, but by lessened opening of the ventilators, as 
it is a confined atmosphere that does the mischief, a little ventilation, 
preventing the moisture condensing and the fruit cracking. 
Melons. —Damp and cold weather has been against frame plants* 
It has favoured those in houses which have been assisted with a gentle 
warmth in the pipes, and they are finer than usual both in thicknesa- 
of flesh and quality. Late crops in frames are not setting well ; they 
grow too luxuriantly in moist weather, and set indifferently. The 
growths should be kept thin, and a little air given constantly, 
maintaining the warmth by manure or grass mowings placed around 
the frame, and renewed at intervals. A quantity to create a radical 
change is.not good, but a gentle warmth favours a good set and the 
swelling of the fruit. Do not neglect to fertilise the flowers daily 
on plants now in bloom, and go over them frequently for the removal 
of superfluous growths. Keep the atmosphere dry when the fruit is 
ripening and setting. Maintain a bottom heat of 80° to 85° ; top heat 
70° at night and 75° by day. In dull weather admit a little air at 75° if 
the day is likely to be fine, allowing the heat to rise to 80°, and keeping 
it through the day at 85° to 90°, closing so as to increase to 90° or 95°. A 
free circulation of rather dry air greatly improves the finish and flavour 
of Melons when ripening. If fruit be wanted very late make a last 
sowing now. Plants for fruiting in October should be planted at once, it 
being highly important that they have a light and well heated structure. 
Cherry House. —The buds are as plump as they need be, therefore 
undue excitement must be guarded against by exposing the trees to the 
influence of the atmosphere so far as the house will admit, which is the 
best means of arresting premature growth, to which the Cherry is liable 
when forced year after year successively. The border must not be 
allowed to become parchingly dry, but must have copious supplies of 
water ; and if the trees are weak afford liquid manure. To subdue red 
spider give an occasional washing with the syringe or garden engine* 
Black aphides attack Cherry trees ; keep an eye to them, and whenever 
they appear promptly assail them with tobacco water. Trees in pots- 
must be regularly watered and syringed to maintain the foliage in good 
order, for though it may not be capable of much further effort ii> 
elaborating sap and storing food it has some, and it is necessary that 
the leaves perform their functions to the last. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The Failure op the Carrot Crop. —As the season advances the- 
failure of the Carrot crop is more and more apparent. It is likely to- 
prove one of the worst Carrot years on record, the grub having done 
great damage. Many will find themselves deficient in roots during the 
winter and next spring unless they try to secure another young crop. 
It is late for sowing in the open ground, as the roots would not attain a 
good size before the winter, but wherever there are spare frames some 
might be profitably devoted to raising late Carrots. A gentle hotbed 
would be advantageous. In our case we have sown seed in the long 
frame that is devoted to early spring Carrots, in the same soil after 
cleaning and stirring it. The French or Early Horn are the only kinds- 
to sow now. Our crop sown in the open three weeks ago is well up, but 
the snails are troublesome, and they must be dusted with lime or soot 
every damp morning until the plants are large. 
Parsley. —This is almost as bad as the Carrots, and immediate- 
attention should be given to providing a young stock. Unfortunately 
Parsley is slow in growing, and the young plants require a long time to- 
become ready for use, and if sown now, even with the aid of a frame, it 
will not be very luxuriant by November. 
Late Kidney Beans. —We have only this week gathered the first 
of our dwarf Beans in the open air. They are later this year than we 
ever had them, and the runners have been unseen in July, but should, 
the autumn prove fine the late crop may partially compensate for the 
tardy returns. As all know, the plants are exceedingly tender ; they 
will not bear the slightest frost, and those intended for the latest crop* 
should be sown in frames, or where frames can be placed over them. 
They require a soil only moderately rich, as a dwarf not over-luxuriant? 
growth is the best for late bearing. The variety Ne plus Ultra is one of.' 
the best amongst dwarf Beans. 
Shallots. —These should be drawn from the soil and laid. ou>t on a- 
walk or some dry place in the sun to mature before storing for the 
winter. They are very hardy, never being affected, with, grub or 
disease, and it is surprising that not more of the Potato Onion is grown* 
as they are prolific and remarkably good keepers. At present they/ 
are chiefly a cottager’s vegetable, but they should be grown in all gentle¬ 
men’s gardens as we 1. Garlic we never store,, but dig it from the 
ground as it is required. 
Herbs. —Notf is the time to cut and dry for the winter. There is 
little or no art in it, but many omit to cut in time, and when the? 
leaves begin falling from Mint it is of little usefor drying. Mint, Sage,, 
and Thyme are the leading herb3, but all others should also be secured. 
They may be cut while dry and placed in a cool airy shed, but. 
do not lay them out in the sun, as this will make the dry leaves very/ 
brittle ; when dried in the shade the leaves become tough and will hang- 
on the stems for twelve m nths or more. When dried in a spread-out 
form they should be tied up in handfuls and suspended' from the roof of 
a dry shed. 
