August 14, 1890. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
141 
cipated. The grub was seen no more, the Onions, the Carrots, and 
Parsnips were good. Without the dressing there was no hope of 
a crop. 
2, I had 1500 Celery plants on a plot of ground added to the 
garden the previous year ; % it is the virgin loam so much prized. 
The trenches were well manured. The Celery grew for a time, 
but afterwards came to a standstill. Guano alone was applied, but 
it did not improve anything but the colour of the plants ; at last 
they were heavily dressed with the guano mixed with salt, and the 
Celery grew well. I had a like number of plants on old ground, 
and they grew well from the first, and were dressed with guano 
mixed with salt. I contrived to give it so as to keep it from the 
hearts. 
3, Club, ambury, and all the grubs seemed to combine to pre¬ 
vent my Cabbages hearting, Cauliflowers heading, or Turnips 
forming. They were dressed with the guano and salt, and they 
reared their heads and were soon quite free of any grubs or pest 
of any kind. 
Lastly, in a greenhouse I had some climbers in a border ; they 
seemed to grow and flower finely up to June, when they came to a 
standstill. They were Passifloras and Tacsonias. Guano water, 
&c., had no beneficial effect, but I gave them about a peck of 
guano and salt broadcast over the border (30 feet by 3 feet), and 
then washed it out of sight with water from a hose. The effect 
was all that could be wished. 
I am convinced that guano and salt in the proportions named 
will prove good for Vines, especially those that have a tendency to 
mildew; also for Peaches, which never do so well as near the sea or 
within reach of its influence. It will also be good for all plants 
subject to mildew. Salt and lime are the most destructive of all to 
fungoid life. 
Ferns are speedily destroyed by guano and salt, but it is remark¬ 
able that if freestone be. sprinkled with it that the stone in a few 
days becomes quite green from the growth of moss ; hence it may 
be of value in newly formed rockwork.—G. 
CULTIVATION OF HEATHS. 
Several correspondents have requested some information 
respecting Heaths, and we therefore give the following notes from 
an experienced cultivator, who has secured a large measure of 
success with these plants 
Heaths are reputedly difficult to cultivate, but happily there are 
some species which will stand a greater amount of rough treatment 
than others, and it is always advisable for beginners to ascertain 
which they are, and commence operations with them. Erica 
gracilis is very useful for flowering in the autumn, winter, and 
spring, there being two varieties—one called autumnalis, the other 
vernalis. I have had the first in flower from October to February, 
and the latter from February till April. The flowers are smail, 
but come in abuudance, and are of a bright pink colour, and highly 
ornamental at a time of the year when flowers are somewhat scarce. 
This I have found to be of the easiest culture, and also readily 
propagated, as it strikes very easily from cuttings, which cannot be 
said of some sorts. But more of propagation presently. E. hyemalis 
is another sort that I consider easy to grow, and a very pretty kind, 
but it does not last in bloom so long a time as gracilis. I have had 
it regularly in bloom from November until February, so that I may 
consider it truly a winter-flowering sort. E. colorans I have 
usually in bloom about the same time. It lasts in bloom rather 
longer than hyemalis, is more erect in habit, and not quite so free 
in growth. The flowers are nearly white at first, but change to a 
reddish-pink when past their best. E. mammosa pallida I have 
generally had in flower late in the autumn. E. cerinthoides has 
often flowered with me in the winter. E. Willmoreana is a spring¬ 
flowering sort, and a very strong grower. These are what I have 
found to be free growers, and such as I believe are suitable to 
begin with, supposing anyone wished to begin cultivating Heaths. 
The treatment I have usually given them is very simple—merely 
cutting them down after flowering, and standing them out of doors 
in May, fully exposed to sun, wind, and rain, housing them in 
September, and giving them ordinary greenhouse treatment from 
that time until the beginning of May. 
But this treatment will not do for most Heaths. E. caffra, for 
instance, is winter flowering, at least so I have found it ; but it is 
of a more delicate constitution, and will not stand the rough treat¬ 
ment described. E. mutabilis I have in bloom the whole year 
round ; but this also requires careful management, but the treat 
ment of these is the same as what is necessary for what I call the 
choice varieties ; and as I intend to give the details of my own 
method of treating them I will here merely remark that the time 
of flowering with certain varieties varies much, and that variation 
depends considerably on the treatment, but sometimes on the 
season. E. fastigiata, E. lutescens, and E. Yernoni have flowered 
with me this season in March and April. The latter is now in full 
bloom, being the second flowering this season. E. vestita coccinea 
I have usually known to flower in the spring, but this season I have 
seen it flowering in August. This variation in the time of flower¬ 
ing frequently happens, but a good grower can generally keep them 
to the proper season. What I consider to be the better Heaths are 
mostly summer flowering, and are often grown for exhibition ; but 
at present I will merely name such as are my own favourites, and 
what I have had to deal with. 
E. ampullacea major, compact growing, flowers in July and 
August ; the flowers of a light colour, changing to a reddish hue as 
they pass their best. This is a characteristic of several others, if 
not most light coloured ones. E. Cavendishiana.—A close com¬ 
pact grower of fine habit and foliage, with deep yellow flowers, 
which open in May and June. This is a general favourite. 
E. eximia.—One of the very best ; a close compact grower, first- 
rate habit, and exquisite in the form and colour of its flowers, and 
usually lasts in bloom a long time. Flowers in June and July. 
E. Hartnelli.—Flowers about the same time as the last ; flowers 
fine and full, not quite so full and free in habit as the above- 
named, but good for exhibition. E. jasminiflora alba.—Rather 
free in habit ; one of the best white ones. Flowers same time as the 
last. E. Massoni.—This I like as well as any Heath grown, both 
from its habit of growth—the shoots always putting me in mind of 
the ascent of a rocket—and also on account of its fine flowers, 
which it produces in June and July. E. metukeflora bicolor.— 
Another favourite, which, when well grown and flowered, is second 
to none for beauty ; but it is not quite so profuse a bloomer as 
some—at least, so I have found it. Flowers in June and July. 
E. retorta major.—A most profuse bloomer, of excellent habit, 
compact, and free, hanging over the sides of the pot, and flowering 
at every point. June and July. E. tricolor rubra.—A good sort, 
as it shows up the flowers well ; but rather spare than otherwise in 
habit, E. tricolor Wilsoni.—Good both in flowers and habit. 
These flower in June, July, and August, consequently are good to 
grow for exhibition. 
The above are known to Heath growers as good sorts, and there 
are others equally good ; but what I have named would be a good 
selection though a small one, and it is always advisable to begin 
with a few, as before said. Those who have had little to do with 
this genus had better use a little caution and begin with the strong¬ 
growing Ericas, for after a little practice with such they will acquire 
a certain amount of confidence that may soon enable them to handle 
choicer kinds, it being a consideration that while a small plant of 
gracilis may be bought at a nursery for Is., a plant the same size of 
Massoni would most likely cost 5s., perhaps more. 
Most growers differ on several minor points of detail. Almost 
every Heath grower has his own peculiar ways and opinions, and I 
will confess that I have mine ; but then nothing suits me better 
than to learn the exact methods of other growers, so that, if I find 
their ways better than mine, I gladly adopt them. My object in 
penning these notes is simply with the idea that others may like to 
learn from my practice as much as I should like to learn from 
theirs ; I will therefore give my experience in detail, and begin 
first with 
Soil. 
When in the neighbourhood of London I have used a peculiar 
kind of peat or heath soil such as I have not seen elsewhere. This 
peat, with the addition of a little more silver sand than it naturally 
contained, made a most perfect soil for Heaths, and they were sure 
to thrive in it ; but then this peat may not be obtainable every¬ 
where, so that we must do what we can with the best within reach. 
Peat earth of some kind it must be, but the more fibry the better— 
just the mere turf pared off if possible ; the tougher it is and the 
harder to chop up the better. But even fibry peat may not be at 
hand, and then, when it is for growing the choicer sorts of Heaths, 
great care is necessary, and I will just explain how I bring it into a 
condition that I can trust the roots of Heaths in it. I first chop it 
up with a spade, and then rub it through a sieve. The latter 
operation is not necessary, but I prefer doing it for the sake of the 
rougher fibre, which I consider an important ingredient in the 
drainage ; if white moss can be obtained that will answer the 
purpose, and the peat need not be sifted. Whether sifted or not 
sand must be added ; I add about a third of silver sand. If silver 
sand is not to be had drift sand or any other sand may be used ; 
but it should be well washed of all earthy matter. The way I have 
done this is to nearly fill a pail or bucket with sand, fill up with 
water, stir well, pour off the water, add more, repeat the process 
until the water runs off clear, then dry the sand, and it is ready to 
be well incorporated with the peat. Peat itself without sand, or 
with very little, is a very unsuitable soil for putting any plant in. 
When wet it soon turns sour, and if it once becomes thoroughly 
dry it is difficult to make it properly moist again. Plenty of sand 
