August 14, 1890. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
143 " 
three parts fall of drainage broken rather small, then a 
layer of peat fibre, then a mixture of peat and silver sand, 
then half an inch of well-washed silver sand, the whole well 
watered. The cuttings are small shoots about an inch long, taken 
as near the collar of the plant as possible and the lower leaves 
stripped off. They are dibbed into the sand with a very small 
dibber, and a little water is allowed to drip on them to settle the 
sand about them. A bellglass is then put over them, and they are 
set in a shady part of a warm greenhouse ; no sun is allowed to 
shine on them, and the inside of the glass is wiped every day.— 
Bud Formation. 
Plants of Chrysanthemums grown by the method most generally 
practised for the production of large blooms are this season forming 
their flower buds in a somewhat irregular manner. In a general way 
cuttings that were struck from the end of November until the middle 
of January make the first, or natural “ break,” from the beginning of 
May until the middle of June, according to the variety and the time 
the cuttings wmre inserted. Some sorts make this first break at 1 foot 
high, while others will not start into additional growth until the stem 
is 4 feet high, so variable is the manner of growth in different varieties. 
When what are known as crOwn ” buds form at the right time they 
invariably produce the best blooms, although they may not always be 
suitable for every person alike, and available just at the time required 
for any particular date. It is an utter impossibility to lay down rules 
for bud formation which will suit every person and district. Expe¬ 
rience will teach individuals what modification is necessary from the 
general principles in their own case. The subject of bud selection 
requires more study than does any other phase in the. culture of the 
plants. 
From complaints by growers in different parts of the country of late 
I find there is a great disposition of plants to set their buds this season 
at what I will call awkward dates. The Queen family appears to be 
giving the greatest trouble in this respect. The cause of this premature 
formation of flower buds is no doubt due to the excessive heat experi¬ 
enced during the latter half of the month of May. On six successive 
days here the thermometer registered 80° and over. This great heat 
coming at a time when the plants were in 5i-inch pots, and many of 
them full of roots, would conduce to premature bud formation instead 
of free growth. I never remember seeing plants which have made so 
many flower buds nor lost so many of their bottom leaves as I have wit¬ 
nessed this season. This will cause some anxiety to growers regarding 
the selection of the best buds for their purpose in the various districts. 
My advice to those persons is not to be in too great a hurry to secure the 
buds, especiallyiof early flowering varieties, but where the plants appear 
to be stunted and very much lacking vigour and freedom of growth, 
to apply some quick acting stimulant to push them on to the next bud. 
There is nothing better for the purpose than nitrate of soda, which is 
very quick in its effect ; but if there is any doubt about a scarcity of 
roots in the pots, the soda should not be applied, as the stimulant would 
do more harm than good. There ought, however, to be scarcely any 
plants now lacking in root action, and if there be, the results next 
November cannot reasonably be expected to be very satisfactory. 
There are two ways of applying nitrate of soda—in the dry state and 
in the form of liquid manure. If the former plan is chosen, a small 
portion of soil, loam, and leaves, in about equal parts, should be laid on 
the surface soil in the pot, pressing it down firmly. Into this the sur¬ 
face roots will run, and prove advantageous in receiving other supplies 
of stimulative food later on. On the added soil sprinkle finely ground 
nitrate of soda, half a teaspoonful to each plant, afterwards watering it 
in with clear water. The object of first placing the soil over the roots is 
to prevent their being killed by direct contact with the nitrate of soda. 
By dissolving half an ounce of nitrate in one gallon of clear water the 
stimulant can be safely applied by those who prefer to use it in this 
way. Before mixing with the water in bulk the soda should be dis¬ 
solved thoroughly in a smaller portion of water, which may be warm 
for convenience, before adding to the bulk to be used. This stimulant 
will expedite the growth of both stems and leaves, and will render these 
plants, in a better condition to receive other support later on, when the 
flower buds have set and are swelling evenly. 
Some varieties, such as Boule d’Or and some other naturally late- 
flowering sorts, are forming their buds now in a regular manner. 
These, which require a long season of growth, must be “ taken ” 
as fast as they form, as if they were to be rejected, and the next 
buds waited for, the blooms in November would not only be too late but 
inferior in quality. Early-flowering sorts, if “ taken ” now, would lose 
much of their freshness before the time required in November ; also the 
colour of the petals is very much paler than from later-chosen buds ; 
and as colour in the flowers is an important point to study, in close com¬ 
petition especially, it behoves exhibitors to obtain the best possible? 
shades of it in the respective kinds.—E. Molyneux. 
Classes Wanted for Amateurs. 
I write a few lines on what I think shows the unfairness of Chrys¬ 
anthemum Show schedules to amateurs. In all the schedules I have 
seen the classes for cut blooms are divided into two divisions only, one 
“ open ” and the other limited to growers within a certain radius. This- 
leaves the amateur no resource but to oppose big growers who have five 
or six times the number of plants that he has. If there were classes for 
persons who employed only one gardener, I think it would be better. I 
grow about a hundred Japanese for exhibition, but I cannot see a 
chance of getting in anywhere without going in the open classes, which. 
I think is unfair, as I have to work all day at my trade. It is very 
expensive growing specimen blooms, and I for one shall have to give in 
up unless I can see some small chance of recouping myself.— Novice. 
ALEXANDER PEACH. 
I WAS very much pleased in reading Mr. J. Austen’s remarks 
respecting this early Peach, page 93, and can fully endorse all that he 
says respecting it. Here we grow many Peaches and Nectarines of all 
the best sorts, both early and late, but do not force any, and Alexander 
is always ready to gather about the second week in July. It is highly 
coloured and good flavoured, and the tree is a heavy cropper. Alexander 
is earlier by a fortnight than any other Peach that I am acquainted 
with. It has often surprised me that it is not more frequently mentioned 
in gardening journals ; and when looking over gentlemen’s gardens I 
seldom, if ever, see it—at least, not in this neighbourhood. I feel sure 
that those who give this Peach a trial will be highly satisfied with it.—- 
W. Shepherd, Grenehurst Gardens , Gapel, Dorking . 
Our outside walls are not well furnished with Peach trees, nor does 
the fruit ripen so early as the position of the garden might justify us in 
anticipating. We shall not gather Hale’s Early much before the middle 
of August. We are thus comparatively late with Peaches, as I saw 
ripe fruit of Early Beatrice in a Kentish garden on July 20th, and at 
Wilton House Mr. Challis was gathering fine fruit of Early Alexander 
at much the same time, Hale’s Early and Early Beatrice being from a 
week to ten days later. At Witley Court, Stourport, Mr. Austen began 
gathering handsome fruit of Early Alexander on July loth. Nursery¬ 
men, whether purposely or not, are in the habit of supplying Alexandra 
Noblesse for the Early Alexander, one being totally distinct from the 
other. No less than four instances of this unfortunate practice have- 
come under my notice, and in each case great disappointment was 
expressed. Alexandra Noblesse is undoubtedly an improvement on the 
good old Noblesse, but it is far from being an early variety, and those 
who plant a tree under the impression that they will eventually be 
rewarded with richly coloured early fruit are to be condoled with in 
their deception. — W. I. 
[We much regret to learn of the practice indicated, and trust it will 
cease, for the two Peaches are wholly dissimilar.] 
THE ECONOMIC U3E3 OF LEAVES. 
Every part of plants and trees is more or less utilised by savage- 
and civilised men—the roots, stems, sap, bark, fruit and seeds, and 
leaves. If we take the foliage, apparently the most insignificant part 
of the plant, how dependent are we on these for food, clothing, medicine, 
dyes, stains and various comforts. In tropical countries especially the 
domestic uses of leaves are almost innumerable. 
The leaves of many Palms are largely employed for making hats.. 
Those best known are Panama hats, made from the finely plaited fibre 
of the leaves of a South American Screw Pine (Carludovica palmata). 
The tree occurs only on the slopes of the Andes. About 200,000 dozens 
of these hats are made in Ecuador and different States of South America,, 
and they are distinguished from all others by consisting only of a single 
piece and by their lightness and flexibility ; they may be rolled up and 
put in the pockec without injury. The plaiting of the hats is very 
tedious and troublesome ; the coarse ones may be finished in two or 
three days, but the fine ones take as many months to plait. They vary 
in price, according to fineness and quality, from five dollars to a hundred 
dollars. The unexpanded fronds of Livistonia australis, prepared by 
being immersed in boiling water, are dried, and the fibre thus obtained 
is much valued for the manufacture of hats in Australia, which much 
resemble the celebrated Panama hats. 
The rough leaves of the Chumico (Curatella americana) and of 
Davilla lucida are used for cleaning iron and polishing and scouring 
wood. Curatella alata is used in the West Indies for polishing bows, 
sabres, &c. ; and in Brazil C. sambaiba serves all the purposes of sand¬ 
paper to the Indians for polishing their blow-pipes and war clubs. The- 
leaves of Celtis orientalis are used for polishing horns in the East 
Indies. 
The foliage of Guaiacum officinale is frequently used in the West 
Indies to scour and whiten floors, which it is said to do better than 
soap. Leaves sewn together are much used in India as substitutes for 
the plates and dishes of more civilised life. It is not always poverty 
that leads natives to use them in preference to metal or porcelain, 
articles as caste or custom has often some influence in the matter. The- 
