August 14, 1890. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
147 
engine, also, if necessary, the more efficient application of an insecticide 
for cleansing the trees of red spider, brown aphides, and scale. It is 
essential that the foliage be kept clean and healthy as long as possible. 
Water must be given as is necessary at the roots, but avoid needless 
applications, especially where the trees are vigorous and lifting is in¬ 
tended. Admit air to the fullest extent, especially at night. 
Houses loitli Fruit Ripening. —A free circulation of air will enhance 
the quality of the fruit, and water need only be given to prevent the 
foliage becoming limp. Secure air moisture by an occasional damping 
of the house for the benefit of the foliage, also fruit, which in an arid 
atmosphere is liable to become mealy, whilst it ripens prematurely if 
the trees suffer by want of water. Ants are often troublesome. They 
take to treacle greedily. Bits of sponge held tightly in the fingers, then 
dipped in the syrup and there relaxed, will absorb some, and a gentle 
squeeze on withdrawing will leave enough in the sponge to entice the 
ants. These laid in their haunts will rid any place of the active 
creatures by immersing the sponges occasionally, with the ants in them, 
in boiling water. Cleanse the sponges each time and repeat the dipping. 
Late Houses. —Trees which have the wood thin have a better chance 
to ripen, and the foliage to elaborate the sap, than those with the summer 
growths laid in so closely as to impede air and light. Upon the assimi¬ 
lation of the food depends its storing in the buds and wood for the sup¬ 
port of the blossom and embryo fruit in the ensuing season. Gross 
growths tend to impoverish the weaker, appropriate an undue amount 
of sap, and tend to gumming and unprofitableness. They must be 
stopped or removed. An even spread of moderately strong short-jointed 
wood is desirable. Ventilate the house early in the morning, allowing a 
good heat by day, and closing so as to increase to 85° or more, for sun 
heat after evaporation has been going on for some time will not do any 
harm if care be taken to admit a little air before nightfall, and the tem¬ 
perature to gradually cool down, thereby securing rest. The night and 
early day ventilation tends to the solidification of the growth and its 
ripening. Syringe to keep down red spider. 
Vines.— Early Houses. —Though the wood may be ripe and some 
foliage falling, there must not be any attempt at removing it, nor to cut 
the laterals close in, as that may cause the principal buds to start; 
therefore remove the laterals by degrees, and shorten some of the long 
shoots, preserving, however, some growth, especially when the leaves are 
down, above the buds to which the Vines are to be pruned, the final 
pruning being deferred until the early part of next month. The old 
surface soil should be removed and forked from amongst the roots, 
taking this advantage to raise any that are deep, and laying them in 
fresh material near the surface. Good calcareous loam is the most suit¬ 
able, with an admixture of steamed bonemeal and wood ashes ; about a 
thirtieth part is ample, or a good handful per square yard. If the soil 
be light add a sixth of clayey marl, or if stiff a similar proportion of old 
mortar rubbish. Give a moderate watering, and the roots will push from 
near the collar into the soil at once, and the Vines will be in capital 
condition for starting when the proper time comes round. When reno¬ 
vating or lifting is deferred until the leaves fall the start is not nearly 
so satisfactory. 
Midseason Houses. —Fire heat is necessary when the Grapes are 
ripening to insure a circulation of air, and make high quality and finish 
certain. Air moisture is essential to the full swelling of the Grapes, and 
will not do any harm provided the atmosphere is not close. Good feeding 
is necessary. A supply of liquid manure and surface mulching of rather 
short yet dry material, to keep down superfluous moisture, is valuable 
for such varieties as Madresfield Court, one of the finest midseason 
Grapes. A rather low night temperature will assist Vines in carrying 
heavy crops. 
Late Houses. —Full supplies of nourishment should be given until 
the Grapes are well advanced in colouring. Most late Grapes take a 
long time to perfect thoroughly, and some appear ripe when they are 
really not so, as is proved afterwards by their shrinking. All late 
Grapes require ample time for ripening. They ought now to be colour¬ 
ing, and then with a circulation of warm, rather dry air finish well. 
Afford a temperature of 70° to 75° by day artificially, 80° to 90° with 
sun, and close sufficiently early to increase to 90° to 95°. When the 
sun is losing power open the top and bottom ventilators to insure a 
circulation of air, and increase the ventilation early in the morning. A 
gentle warmth should be maintained in the pipes to prevent the tem¬ 
perature falling below 65°. 
PLA.NT HOUSES. 
Erica hyemalis. —Do not crowd these too closely together, or the lower 
foliage will turn brown and eventually fall. If thoroughly hardened, 
these plants are better standing on a bed of ashes outside in an open 
sunny position. Partially plunge the pots of the front row and the 
plants will afford sufficient shade to the others. Be careful they do not 
suffer by an insufficient supply of water. Keep the material moist on 
which they stand, and syringe the plants in the afternoon of dry days. 
Where they are protected in frames it is a good plan to raise these from 
the ground, so that a good circulation of air can play amongst the plants. 
The lights should be drawn off during the day. 
Erica melanthera. —As these flower late they will now be in active 
growth, and should be kept in frames for some weeks. Encourage them 
to make their growth by closing the frame early in the afternoon. This 
species is benefited by this treatment, and is not liable to be attacked by 
mildew. Give plenty of air during the day, syringe morning and even¬ 
ing in dry weather, and give liberal supplies of water. If any of these 
plants need repotting it should be done at once. Do not disturb the old 
toil further ithan is necessary to remove the drainage ; press the soil, 
peat and sand, firmly, and give water with caution for some time after¬ 
wards. A light shade over the frame during the hottest part of the day 
will prove beneficial. 
Azalea amcena. —Plants that were assisted to make their growth 
early, and have been gradually hardened by abundance of air and 
exposure to light, may be stood outside. If the plants have been growing 
under Vines and Peaches thin tiffany should be arranged so as to shade 
them for a few hours during bright sunshine, or the foliage will be 
unduly browned by sudden exposure. Protect the front row of pots, the 
same as advised for Ericas. Syringe the plants freely, and do not 
allow them to become dry at their roots. 
Epacris. —Those that flowered early and were assisted into growth 
by gentle warmth, will be sufficiently advanced for standing outside, se 
that air and sunshine may ripen their growths, for upon this depends 
whether they flower profusely or the reverse. Do not turn them out 
before the plants have been carefully prepared by exposing them to the 
sun. Plants in active growth should still remain in frames, and be - 
pushed forward by early closing in the afternoon, and syringing at the 
same time. Air should be admitted freely during the day, so that their 
growths are sturdy and strong. A too confined atmosphere soon draw& 
them up weakly. 
Camellias. —When these have completed their growth syringing 
should be stopped for a time until the flower buds are set. Plants in 
vigorous growth if kept close and moist are liable to start again into 
growth ; this can be prevented by the admission of more air, a drier 
atmosphere and the gradual exposure of the plants to light. The latter 
is most important where strong growth has been made, for if not 
thoroughly matured the flower buds may fall prematurely. Plants that 
are swelling their buds should be kept moist at the roots and syringed 
freely. If confined in pots or narrow borders stimulants may be given. 
If these plants are placed outside they must have a position where they 
will receive partial shade, and must be well watered, also syringed during: 
bright warm weather. 
Primula obconica. —The earliest plants may be placed in 5-inch pots 
and stood in a shady corner outside. Bright sunshine is detrimental' 
to their well being. Later plants may be potted ; they need more root 
room, and to be kept in frames that have a northern aspect. 
Lilium candidum. —Where these are appreciated in pots, imported 
bulbs should be potted as soon as they can be received. Large bulbs 
may be placed singly in G-inch pots, or three or four may be placed into 
10-inch. Drain the pots liberally, and pot in a compost of good loam, 
one-seventh of decayed manure, and sand. The bulbs should be covered 
with about 1 inch of soil. Stand the pots outside or in cold frames until 
growth commences. 
Gladiolus The Bride.— Where a number of bulbs have been flowered 
in 5-inch pots and stood outside for the past few weeks they should be 
placed at once into pots 2 inches larger. Remove the drainage, and pot 
them without disturbing their roots. Plunge the pots and just cover 
the rim with ashes. They can remain in this condition until October, 
when the corms will have commenced growth, and the plants may be 
removed to the greenhouse. 
Kalosanthes. —Plants that have flowered may be cut back and placed 
in frames to break, when they should be repotted. Shoots that have not 
flowered may be rooted singly in small pots, or a number placed together 
in 5 and 6-inch pots. These plants, if rooted quickly and then fully 
exposed to light and air, will flower freely another year. If wanted only 
for the season following, root them singly, and then remove the point to' 
induce them to branch. Plants cut back last season should be placed 
outside fully exposed to the sun to ripen, which will induce every shoot 
to flower freely. 
Veronica Andersoni variegata. —Young shoots of this variety may be 
inserted thickly together in pots and placed in the propagating frame ; 
they will soon root, and will be found useful in small pots for furnishing 
during the winter. This plant grows quickly, and for the purpose in 
question should not be stopped. 
Beqonia manicata. —This species, and B. hydrocotylifolia, which for 
conservatory decoration is the more useful of the two, should be placed, 
if not already done, into 5 and G-inch pots, their flowering size. They 
do well in a mixture of loam, one-third leaf mould, one-seventh of 
Mushroom bed refuse and sand. Place them in fold frames, where they 
will be perfectly safe until the end of September. Shade them lightly 
from the sun. 
Begonia Lnqrami. —Place ajnumber of plants in 5-inch pots and grow 
them cool. Cuttings may also be inserted singly in small pots. Strike: 
cuttings also of B. semperflorens, B. carminea, B, ro3ea, as well as 
B. nitida and its rose coloured form. 
Euonymus latifolius variegatus. —This is equally as ornamental in 
the greenhouse or conservatory during the autumn and winter as the 
Croton is in the stove, and plants of various sizes may be used with 
effect. Low standards on stems from 1 foot to 18 inches high are very 
useful. Cuttings of young wood should now be inserted thickly to¬ 
gether in pans of sandy soil, well watered, and then placed in a coldi 
frame where they can be shaded from the sun. Nearly every one will 
root in this position, and may be potted singly early in the year. They 
can be rooted in heat, but are less certain, and entail more than double the. 
labour. By rooting a few annually there need be no deficiency of stock,. 
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums. —Young plants intended for autumn and' 
winter flowering that have been rooted late and are now only in 3-inch 
pots should be placed in 5-inch, gradually hardened, and stood outside, 
where they will make firm sturdy growth, and in due time flower. 
profusely. 
