Amsmst 28, 1890. 1 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
175 
.soon spoil all the good ones if any delay occurs in the transit or 
.sale, and always keep everything perfectly clean and dry. 
Compensation from Landlords for Planting. —It is only 
possible to give a few general hints on this subject, as so much 
depends on the customs of the locality, the kind of fruit planted, 
length of the lease, &o., but fruit growing has one drawback to 
those who are not freeholders, as it necessitates a large outlay at 
the commencement, and the first few seasons the returns are com¬ 
paratively small. Again, there is always a certain amount of risk 
.attached to fruit growing which no care or foresight on the part 
of the grower will altogether remove. It is, therefore, necessary 
before any planting is done to have a proper agreement as to com¬ 
pensation for unexhausted improvements, drawn up by a competent 
person, and duly signed by the landlord and all parties concerned. 
A very fair way, if it can be so arranged, is for the land and trees 
to be let by auction in case of expiration of tenancy, the incoming 
tenant paying the outgoing one the auction price for the trees which 
the latter had planted or purchased, and by this means securing the 
right to sell again for what he can get, the landlord retaining the 
power of choice as to tenants, but in the case of refusing acceptance 
to pay the outgoing tenant the sum ofEered. Another way is for 
the landlord to pay for the trees and planting in the first instance, 
the tenant to pay a fair interest on the outlay as a rent charge in 
addition to the ordinary rent, or a lease may be arranged for not 
less than nineteen years, to cover the tenant’s expenses for planting 
by a low rent, and give him an opportunity of getting a return 
of his outlay. The above remarks apply principally to standard 
Apples, Plums, and Cherries, which are longest in reaching their 
full size. Bush fruits give a quicker return, and are also much 
sooner exhausted. 
Preparation of Soil and Planting. —- One great step 
towards success is to have the soil in a suitable state for fruit 
trees before planting, and this is especially the case in planting 
standard trees which will remain in the same position for half a 
century and upwards. In the first place, then, all fruits require the 
soil to be thoroughly drained. Stagnant water near the roots is fatal 
to success. Before planting, therefore, if there is any doubt on the 
subject dig a hole 2 feet deep, and if water is found in any quantity 
drains must be laid to take it away before planting is attempted. 
All drains should be laid not less than 3 feet deep, and down the 
■centres of the spaces between the rows where large trees are to be 
grown, or they will soon be choked by the roots. The distance of 
the drains from each other should vary from 10 feet in very bad 
cases and heavy soil to 30 feet in better and drier positions. All 
drains should have a good fall to prevent their choking by sediment. 
Draining will add considerably to the expense of planting, but the 
cost of this ought not by any means to fall on a tenant. It is not 
desirable, as a rule, to plant fruit trees where draining will be 
requisite, as low or flat situations are naturally cold and damp, and 
liable to be affected by late spring frosts, while hill sides, sloping to 
the east or south, or high flat lands are the best, because they are 
naturally drier and warmer. Having made sure the drainage is 
right the texture of the soil will next require attention. If it is 
very hard and firm beneath the first spit it should be trenched 
2 feet deep or ploughed with a subsoil plough, keeping the best soil 
on the top ; but as a rule, if the land has been previously under 
good cultivation, no trenching will be necessary if large holes are 
dug for planting, and the soil loosened well at the bottom. In all 
cases these holes should be large enough to spread the roots of the 
trees out flat all round. The trees should always be planted as 
■deeply as they were before, but not any deeper. Tn wet positions 
and heavy cold soils it is often recommended to plant on mounds of 
earth, but it is far better either to correct the soil before planting 
or to choose a better position, as the roots of trees will always 
•eventually work downwards. 
As a rule only Strawberries and Raspberries will require 
manure when they are planted or a short time previous to planting, 
except in a few instances where the ground is exceptionally poor, 
Mich as light sandy soils. In such a case it will be advisable to give 
a good dressing of farmyard manure for all kinds of bush fruits 
also. Strawberries require to be planted in August in order to get 
a good return the first season. All other kinds of fruit should be 
•planted early in the autumn as soon as the leaves begin to fall. 
They succeed much the best if a good mulching of litter, half 
•decayed leaves, long dry grass, short straw, or some similar matter 
is spread around the stem about 1 foot further out than the roots 
•extend, and 4 inches thick. This will keep the roots warm in frosty 
weather, and keep the moisture in the ground when the dry weather 
comes in the following summer. 
Shelter. —This is often of great service in spring when the 
trees are in flower, and much more so in autumn in the case of 
Apples that are nearly ready for gathering. The strong gales that 
are often prevalent at that time do much damage, and sometimes 
destroy all chances of profit that would otherwise accrue. In all 
places that are much exposed, therefore, it is well to plant a 
narrow belt of trees for shelter on the sides where the strongest 
and coldest winds come from. In most instances this will he the 
south-west, north-east, and north. Trees for the purpose of shelter 
should be quick-growing—thick enough to form a good screen—not 
likely to encourage insects, and sorts that will live in good con¬ 
dition as long as they are likely to be wanted. Observation of 
forest trees growing near will be the best guide for the planter. 
The Spruce Fir is often one of the best trees for this purpose, and 
will grow in most places. The Scotch Fir is also suitable on some 
soils, and a few Larch may be planted among either of these. The 
Lime should not be planted anywhere near fruit trees, as it is too 
much subject to insects. Of course in the case of small gardens 
where only a few trees are grown there will be no necessity for 
planting shelter trees, or at any rate it would be impracticable in 
the majority of instances ; but where a number of allotments are 
grouped together in exposed situations with a view to fruit culture, 
or in any plots that exceed the size of an ordinary cottage garden, 
it will pay to make arrangements for this end when the lease or 
agreement is drawn up. —W. H. Divers. 
(To be continued.) 
ADIANTUM FORMOSUM. 
This is one of our oldest and best known Adiantums. In the 
days of large specimen plants this Fern was much sought after for 
the reason that it is one of the quickest and strongest growers 
among exotic Ferns, and can by frequent shifts into lirger pots 
soon be readily grown into specimens oc any desired size. It is 
also very accommodating as to temperature and can be grown to 
perfection in an ordinary greenhouse, in fact better than in a high 
stove temperature. In a very high temperature it is apt to suffer 
if the soil be dry at the roots, which is very detrimental to its growth 
and vigour. Unlike Adiantum cuneatum it resents being cut dowr, 
nor does this need to be done very often, as it is evergreen, and for 
three parts of the year at least it is in active growth ; therefore, 
any wholesale removal of fronds in a well managed and active 
growing plant is unnecessary. The older fronds become brovn 
and shabby in time, but they should be removed gradually as 
younger fronds arise. 
Adiantum formosum was introduced from New Holland in 
1820. Its specific name, formosum, means handsome, and a well 
grown specimen, whether small or large, and in a healthy state, 
is certainly very attractive. The fronds are strong and branching 
in a vigorous plant, but smaller and lighter are also thrown up 
at the same time, and serve to hide the stipes of the taller fronds 
from view. The stipes are black, wiry in texture, and the rachides 
are the same. The leafy parts of the fronds are deep green, 
and the pinnules are prettily toothed on the margins. For any 
purpose where large, broad fronds are required this Adiantum is 
very useful, but it is not a popular Fern for cutting purposes. 
Its underground rhizomes are produced very freely round the 
edges of the pots and over the drainage. They, with their nume¬ 
rous root fibres, absorb a quantity of water at all times, hence the 
necessity of supplying plenty will be apparent when the plants are 
in free growth. Being a strong grower a stronger soil may be 
used for it than is customary with some of the weaker growing 
varieties of Adiantums. A compost chiefly made up of turfy 
loam, silver sand, and charcoal broken small, will form a suitable 
mixture for potting at any stage. Such material needs less com¬ 
pression when p itting than lighter soil does, and there is also in 
it more quality and richness in a form that is readily availible for 
the numerous small fibres to feed upon as they increase in quantity 
and demand their due share of support. When repotting, any stout 
portions of these rhizomes that are furnished with a growing point, 
and which may be accidentally broken off, or intentionally sepa¬ 
rated from the plant when shifting, may be utilised by placing them 
thickly together in a 5 or 6-inch pot, covering them with soil, and 
watering them carefully. These, if detached and potted in the 
spring, will, in the course of the season, if grown in moist atmo¬ 
sphere and gentle heat, afford some excellent bushy plants. This 
method of inc~easing the stock is quite equal to, if not better than, 
division of larger plants from the fact that fronds are produced of 
moe uniform strength, and particularly so if the portions of 
rhizomes selected are as near as possible of one thickness. 
Plants may be had of almost any size by frequent shifts into 
1 irger pots, but the larger the pot the more unwieldy the specimens 
become, though they are certainly attractive and handsome when 
through plenty of root room the fronds have attained a maximum 
height of 2 to 3 feet, and plenty are produced. A 15-inch pot will 
h old a large specimen, but more manageable plants are grown in 
smaller pots. A good shift once a year is generally sufficient to 
grow specimens under greenhouse treatment, but in a moist and 
