September 11 , 1890. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
235 
Strawberries in Pots. —la the earliest plants the crowns are 
becoming plump, sufficiently so, at least, for the detection of plants 
that will not be available for early forcing, and which should be re¬ 
moved at once, even those about which there is a suspicion of being 
barren, making good the deficiency from surplus stock. These should 
be given plenty of space and the warmest position. Worms and runners 
are troublesome, also weeds. Lime water will expel worms, but the 
drainage must be seen to afterwards and put right, putting down more 
ashes to prevent others entering the pots. Runners and weeds must be 
promptly removed. The pots in all cases should be wide enough apart 
to allow of the sun and air having free access to the foliage. The crowns, 
which are numerous in some varieties, particularly Vicomtesse Hericart 
de Thury, should be reduced to the central or strongest one, not de¬ 
ferring it until they have attained to a considerable size, but as soon 
as they can be taken hold of with the finger and thumb and lifted clean 
out of the socket. This will concentrate all the vigour in the main 
crown ; those will afford strong flower spikes, and then by selecting the 
largest and best formed flowers a crop of fruit will be ensured large 
and creditable to the grower. Any late runners may yet be potted, and 
with good attention they will be serviceable for late work in 5-inch 
pots, and may afford very good fruit. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Propagating Pelargoniums. — It is not yet too late to take and 
root the requisite quantity of Zonal Pelargonium cuttings, but if longer 
delayed the result may prove disappointing. Cuttings this season are 
very soft and sappy, and more than ordinary pains must be taken with 
them or there will be many failures. After they are duly cut to a joint 
and freely trimmed all ought to be laid in the full sunshine or in an 
open place to flag. In this manner much superfluous sap will be 
removed and the wounds partially healed over. Nor ought water to be 
given for several days after the cuttings are inserted, only enough being 
given at any time to prevent their shrivelling badly. At this late 
date none should be left in the open exposed to all weathers, a dry cool 
staging or shelves in a house or pit being the best place for these newly 
inserted cuttings. 
Pots versus Boxes. —Where extra large quantities of Pelargoniums 
are still bedded out the ordinary boxes must be largely used for their 
storage. If carefully watered and kept in dry airy houses the per¬ 
centage of losses is usually small ; but boxes are by no means the best 
receptacles in all instances where the house room is either limited or of 
an unsuitable character. It is surprising what a quantity can be 
packed away on a few shelves, swinging or otherwise, if the cuttings are 
inserted somewhat thickly in 3-inch or rather larger pots. Each small 
pot will hold five or six cuttings, and these being potted singly in 
the spring make fine plants by the time they are wanted for the beds. 
The more delicate variegated varieties frequently damp off extensively in 
boxes, but they keep well in pots. If, therefore, boxes must be used 
place the common green-leaved varieties in these and place the bicolors 
and tricolors in either pans or pots. In any case only common sandy 
soil should be used, the boxes especially being well drained, while ail 
ought to be firmly fixed in the soil. 
Tuberous Begonias. —The beds of these have quite eclipsed the 
Pelargoniums this season, and in many cases they would pay well 
if protected from early frosts. A light framework and either mats, 
scrim canvas, or cotcon blinds would ward off a moderately severe 
frost and prolong the display considerably. Sturdy isolated plants 
could be potted, and would flower for a time in a conservatory or green¬ 
house. As far as keeping the roots is concerned, there is no necessity 
to lift the plants before frosts have crippled the tops, only very severe 
cold ever reaching or injuring the tubers. Mixed beds are very effective, 
but masses of one colour are even more so ; and for this reason it is ad¬ 
visable to place a label bearing the description of colour and habit to 
each plant, and next season it will be a simple matter to group the dif¬ 
ferent colours. The erect flowering forms are the most effective in 
flower beds, and during the weeding-out of inferior forms the prefer¬ 
ence might well be given to those with bold erect blooms. Cuttings 
inserted in either boxes or the open ground, similarly to Zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums, will eventually die down, but not till most of them have 
formed tubers at their base. 
Verbenas. —On the whole these have been a failure, the rains dash¬ 
ing the blooms as fast as they opened. Nor have the more delicate 
named varieties formed much healthy growth, good cuttings being 
scarce. Hard young shoots rarely strike freely, and even if they can be 
rooted they seldom grow vigorously. Select succulent young flowerless 
shoots, shorten to the third joint, and insert rather thickly in 5-inch 
pots, water-in, and place them in a frame over gentle hotbed. They 
must be kept rather close and shaded till well rooted, when the plants 
ought to be stored on shelves in a cool house. Old plants can seldom 
be potted with advantage, and flowering or insect-infested shoots are 
useless for propagating purposes. 
Lobelias. —These have revelled in the dull showery weather, and were 
never gayer for so many weeks together. Nowadays seedlings are so 
good as regards evenness of growth, colour, and floriferousness that 
there is little need to propagate from cuttings or division. Nor do old 
plants that have been flowering all the summer succeed in pots. Cut¬ 
tings are also scarce unless the plants have been prevented flowering. 
If they can be procured they may be rooted, and the plants wintered 
much as advised in the case of Verbenas. 
Heliotropes, Petunias , and Ageratums. —All have done well this 
season, the first and last named especially so. Cuttings do not 
strike particularly well. The surest way of having a stock of 
either is to keep a number of young plants growing strongly in 
pots all the summer, these flowering freely in the autumn, and 
produce cuttings in abundance from the ripened growth the follow¬ 
ing spring. This precaution not having been taken in the case of 
Heliotropes, the attempt should be made to root some cuttings in gentle 
heat, and a few old plants ought also to be potted before frost 
injures them. Petunias and Ageratums may be treated in a similar 
manner, though good strains of both can be had from seeds sown next 
spring. 
Tender Bedding Plants. —Healthy or not starved plants of Coleases, 
Alternantheras, and Iresines kept all through the summer in pots are 
better for storing for stock purposes than any that can be potted up, but 
if these are not available then must cuttings be inserted and old plants 
lifted before any more frosts are felt. Soft cuttings of either of the. 
kinds named usually strike freely in a brisk heat, while if plants are 
lifted not much rich garden soil should be left about the roots, or other¬ 
wise it will become sour during the winter. A light compost ought to- 
be used, and good drainage given. The shelves of stoves or forcing 
houses are the best positions for wintering these plants, and rather 
small pots are better for them than either pans or boxes. 
Protecting Masses of Flower. —Many good and serviceable border 
plants are flowering exceptionally well this season, plenty of moisture at 
the roots evidently suiting them. Masses of Stocks, Asters, Zinnias, 
Marigolds, Gaillardias, and the taller-growing Japanese Anemones, 
herbaceous Sunflowers, Pyrethrum uliginosum, Heleniums, late Gladioli, 
and any other showy plants might be preserved from frosts and heavy 
rains without much trouble, and their usefulness greatly prolonged 
with the aid of a few stakes, benders, rods, and either mats or good 
blinds. Everything should be kept in readiness for covering the plants, 
and be put on before frosts cripple them. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Gloxinias.— There is no difficulty in having these in flower through¬ 
out the year. Plants that flowered early and have just started again 
into growth should be shook out and repotted. Introduce another 
batch of plants into a temperature of 60°. It is a good plan to shake 
them out and place the tubers amongst leaf soil in pans or boxes until 
they commence growing and rooting. Do not dry off too quickly plants 
that have flowered. 
Coleus. —Cuttings should be rooted in quantity. Se’ect shoots with 
large bold foliage, and insert them singly in small pots. Small, well 
furnished, highly coloured plants are invaluable for table and other 
forms of decoration. Root also a good batch of cuttings in 5 and 
6-inch pots for stock purposes, and keep them where the tempera¬ 
ture ranges 60°. These, if allowed to grow without pinching, will 
yield valuable cuttings for rooting in small pots at intervals of a 
month. 
Medinilla magnijica. —If grown in the stove, where shading has been 
employed, it should now be removed to a cooler and drier atmosphere, 
and fully exposed to the sun. It will be safe in a night temperature 
of 55°. Do not diminish the supply of water at the root, and the 
syringe should be used freely once a day. Thrips are very troublesome, 
and once they are established they soon destroy the fine foliage of this' 
plant. 
Fpiphyllums. —These should have completed their growth ; expose 
them fully to the sun in a cool dry atmosphere. Do not keep them dry 
at their roots. Water carefully, but do not allow them to suffer by an 
insufficient supply. Plants that have not done growing should be kepk 
fully exposed to the sun in a temperature of 60°. Where the Pereskia. 
has been grown strong for stocks the shoots may be cut into lengths of 
9 inches or a foot, the eyes removed, and then inserted singly in small 
pots. Portions of Epiphyllums may be secured to the stocks as soon as 
they are inserted, and by the time they are rooted the stock and scion, 
will have become united. 
Stephanotis. —Plants that flowered early have completed their 
growth, and should be placed where the temperature does not fall 
below 50°. Admit plenty of air during the day and maintain a dry 
atmosphere about the plant. The principal object now should be to 
harden and ripen the wood thoroughly, then abundance of flowers 
another season may be anticipated. 
Poinsettias. —If not removed from cold frames these should be 
removed without delay to some light structure where the temperature' 
will not fall below 55° to 60°. Ventilate freely during the day to 
prevent the plants again starting into growth. This must be avoided, or 
else their brilliant bracts will be small in comparison to what they 
should be. 
Caladiums. —It is not safe to keep these much longer in a cool con¬ 
servatory. They should be removed to a temperature of 60° and allowed 
to go gradually to rest. Do not dry them off too quickly, or else the 
tubers will rot ; gradually decrease the supply of water, and allow them 
to die off naturally. The tubers will then remain sound for another 
year. 
Adiantum cuneatum, —Seedlings that are well established in 3-inc’ri 
pots will if placed into 5 or 6-inch at once continue to grow and yield 
fronds for cutting throughout the winter. Place the plants in a 
temperature of 60° and grow them fully exposed to the sun. Use for a 
compost leaf mould and loam in equal proportions, and add a liberal 
quantity of sand. Lime rubbish broken up moderately fine and 
incorporated with the soil is also very suitable for these plants. Plants- 
from which all the best fronds have been removed may be cut over,, 
rested for a short time in a cool place, and then started into growth by 
placing them in the temperature advised for young plants. 
