September 18, 1890. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
25 9 
laterals rubbed off up to the height of the trellis, and then every 
alternate lateral on opposite sides of the primary, stopping it when 
two-thirds across the trellis. The laterals show fruit blossoms at the 
second or third joint, if not the laterals are pinched at the second joint, 
relying on the sub-laterals for the show of fruit. If the plants are 
weak and there is no hurry for the fruit remove all staminate and 
pistillate flowers on the laterals, stopping at the second or third joint, 
waiting for fruit on the tertiary growths or sub-laterals, which is an 
advisable plan where time is not a consideration, and a full crop and 
larger fruit is desired. By alitcle contrivance both systems may be had 
in the same house, which gives a longer succession of fruit— i.e., plants 
allowed to fruit on the first laterals ; those give from two to four fruit on 
a plant, and those that fruit on the second lateral or sub-laterals four 
to six fruits each, the latter being a fortnight to three weeks later. 
Where a succession of fruit has to be maintained from an early to a late 
period—say May to November inclusive - the plan is an excellent one. 
A rather dry condition of the atmosphere, with a little ventilation so as 
to ensui’e a circulation of air, is advisable, with a bottom heat of 
80° to 85°, and impregnating the blossoms after they become fully 
expanded is advantageous to a good set. Do net earth up the roots until 
the fruit is set and swelling. Fire heat will be necessary to maintain 
a temperature of 70° to 75° by day artificially, rising to 80° or 85° from 
sun heat, losing no opportunity of closing early, so as to run up to 
90° or 95°. Be sparing of the syringe, only use it for damping in the 
morning and afternoon, syringing the foliage on bright days, and in the 
early part of the afternoon. Water at the roots only when necessary, 
using liquid manure to assist in swelling off the crop, giving a thorough 
soaking when needed. Sprinkling with liquid manure all available 
surfaces in the afternoon is highly beneficial to the foliage, but it must 
not be overdone, and it is a good plan to sprinkle the surface of the 
border with a few fresh horse droppings arbout twice a week, and a little 
soot, just a dusting, is sufficient. A handful of superphosphate sprinkled 
on the surface of the border to each plant after the plants are earthed 
assists the swelling, fruits of plants to which it is applied being heavier 
than those the plants of which are stimulated by nitrogenous manures, 
and there is no comparison of the two in respect of quality. Manure 
is best not mixed with the soil unless it be devoid of humus, when a 
fourth of fresh horse droppings mixed with it will insure activity at the 
roots, and some lime rubbish and charcoal refuse secure a supply of 
sweet health-sustaining aliment. 
Plants with the fruit swelling require careful attention in guarding 
against canker and preventing the fruits cracking. Fresh slaked lime 
applied on the first appearance of canker will subdue it, repeating as 
necessary ; but it is aggravated by a close atmosphere, moisture on the 
stem, and too rich moist soil, A lessened supply of water both at the 
roots and in the atmosphere, particularly the latter, is the proper remedy 
for cracked fruits, or cutting the shoot half way through a few joints 
below the fruit in the case of vigorous plants. Fruit ripening should 
have a little air constantly, with a temperature of 70° to 75°, and as 
much more as can be had from sun heat under 100°, with a correspond¬ 
ing increase of ventilation. Cut the fruits as soon as there is the least 
indication of the footstalk parting from it, even earlier than that if the 
fruits are expected to keep, and place them in a light and moderately 
airy fruit room. They will have more flavour and be more mellow than 
fruits allowed to bake in the sun. The foliage of plants in pits and 
frames must not be sprinkled, but be Kept as dry as possible, watering 
only to prevent the foliage flagging. Renew or renovate the linings 
to finish off the crop directly the heat is found to be on the wane, 
and employ a covering on cold nights. In dull damp weather, and 
especially at night, leave a little ventilation ; a little tilting of the 
lights at the back will allow the pent-up moisture to escape, and it will 
keep off cracking to a great extent, as well as aid the fruit in acquiring 
quality. Keep the foliage thin and the fruit well exposed to the light, 
but a slight shade from bright sun following a period of dull weather is 
an advantage. 
Cucumbers. —Keep young plants well up to the glass to insure a 
sturdy growth, and secure the growth to a small stake. Pinch out the 
growing point at the second leaf if the plants are to be trained with 
more than one stem, and it is important whether the plants are to have 
one or more stems that all the laterals up to the trellis be rubbed off as 
soon as discernible, leaving the leaves, when they may be allowed, make 
side shoots for bearing. Continue the preparation of fermenting 
materials where such is employed for bottom heat. Manure will require 
to.be turned over every three or four days, while tan will only require to be 
turned once, and that as soon as it is fairly warmed through. In 
forming the beds whatever material is used tread it well down. Use the 
syringe sparingly, giving a light sprinkling only in the early part of the 
afternoon on bright days, but moderate moisture must be secured by 
sprinkling in the morning every available surface, and damping before 
nightfall. The temperature should be maintained at 70° to 75° by 
artificial means, falling 5° through the night, and allowing an advance 
to 80°, 85°, or 90° from sun heat, closing at 80°. 
In pits and frames the temperature must be maintained by renovat¬ 
ing the linings as necessary, and employ night coverings to prevent too 
great diminution of temperature during the night. Water very care¬ 
fully, and sprinkle the foliage only on bright days and early in the 
afternoon. Keep the foliage thin, removing bad leaves and exhausted 
growths, and husband the sun heat as much as possible by early closing. 
Ventilate early, just a little to allow of a change of air, and keep up a 
good heat by allowing a moderate amount of air when the sun affords 
opportunity, 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The Weather and the Crops. —At the time of writing the weather 
has improved considerably, but August was a bad month throughout, and 
vegetable crops are in a worse condition to withstand a severe winter 
than we ever knew them in September. The growths are soft and 
watery, and are quite destitute of a robust character, and bright dry 
weather for a month or six weeks is urgently needed to foitifv the 
winter crops. Nothing should be allowed to interfere with this, and all 
weeds, superfluous leaves, and such like, should be removed from' 
amongst the winter crops, that the sun and air may play fully upon' 
them. Some may think because they have massive leaves now that 
they are all right, but when Broccoli and other greens appear as if their 
foliage had been boiled after a few degrees of frost has occurred, it 
proves that they were not prepared to meet this as they should, and 
when once the main leaves are withered the produce will always be of 
an inferior description. 
Runner Beans. —These were unusually late in commencing to fruit 
this season, none being gathered until August, but they have made up 
for it since, having been immensely prolific. Readers generally should' 
have taken advantage of this to salt a quantity of pods. Our cook has’ 
stored many bushels, and when they come to be used at midwinter it 
will be difficult for anyone to tell that they are not newly gathered from 
the plants. As all know, the Kidney Bean is most easily injured by 
frost. So long as frost does not occur they will continue to bear until' 
very late in the season, and to insure their doing this never allow a pod 
to remain on the row that is too old for use. It is then the seed begins 
to form, and this causes all the later and very young pods to cease 
swelling. 
Potatoes. —As we have previously indicated, the greatest failure 
of the year is in the Potato crop. The best of weather will not remedy 
the evil now, but good weather will be an advantage in storing the 
tubers in dry condition, and if the soil and atmosphere are favourable 
the storing should be pushed on as rapidly as possible. Nothing is to be 
gained by waiting, but wet weather later on would make the storing in 
proper condition most difficult. Fortunately we find those stored 
several weeks ago keeping much better than was anticipated, but we 
attribute this to extra care in storing, hence our reason for again 
referring to it. 
Tomatoes. —The indoor crops have been as good as ever, but the 
open-air ones greatly deficient. A full supply can only be secured from 
the plants under glass this season, and the plants should therefore receive 
extra attention. Those that have been fruiting all up the stem may 
appear withered and unsightly on that part now, but if the points are 
green and bearing fruit, the old foliage may be cut off the stem and the 
fresh points encouraged to grow. If the pots, boxes, or beds in which 
they are growing are very full of roots and exhausted soil, give them a 
surface dressing of turf and manure in about equal parts. Water freely 
afterwards with liquid manure. Cut all the fruit off as soon as it begins 
to change colour, that the latest may have the full benefit of the energies 
of the plant. It will be found that on fine sunny days they will make 
more progress with abundance of ventilation than by keeping them close 
in a high temperature. Plenty of dry air is highly advantageous ter 
them, not only in causing the fruit to swell, but also in making it form.. 
By keeping our open-air plants strictly confined to one stem they arc 
now producing ripe fruit, but some we noticed elsewhere that were sa 
mass of foliage and shoots, had not swelled their fruit to half its size, 
and it did not give any indication of maturing. If this growth is allowed 
to remain on, the fruit will not ripen this season, but by fully exposing 
it much may still ripen before the end of October. Plants with a 
superabundance of growth are better kept rather dry. 
Birds and Late Peas. —Row after row of Peas may be grown at 
midseason without the birds doing them any great harm, but the late 
rows which are most available are often much injured by them. In 
many cases they will clear out the pods so completely that they are 
hardly worth gathering, and this is sometimes done before one is aware- 
that they have been feeding on them. It is the sparrows that are most - 
destructive on late Peas, and the protection of all late rows should be 
seen to from the time the pods are first formed, as they often attack the 
young pods whether there are peas in them or not. The only mode of" 
protecting them is to cover the rows with nets, and this should be 
done at once, and continued until the Peas are finished. 
Autumn-sown CAbbage. —The young plants placed out two or 
three weeks ago are now growing freely, and another plantation should 
be formed. The advantage of planting at two or three times and 
at intervals of a few weeks is that with a mild or severe winter some 
of the plants may suffer, or be pushed on too much and induced 
to flower prematurely ; but one or more of the plots are sure to be 
successful, probably all. By planting at two or three different times 
the most forward can also be planted, which gives the later ones, 
a better chance to become robust. All must be planted in good 
rich soil. They will never swell and heart freely in spring in poor- 
material. Those who wish to market some of their produce should 
plant these Cabbage largely so as to have them ready very early in. 
spring, as they are a most remunerative crop at that time. 
Rhubarb for Forcing. —Roots intended for early forcing should, 
have the foliage removed from the crowns as soon as any of the leaves 
die, as when the crowns are well ripened they force much easier than 
when soft and green, which they will be if the foliage is allowed to 
remain on them as it falls to the ground. 
Sweet Basil. —This distinctly flavoured herb is often called for. 
Most cooks prefer it green, and a cutting box or several 6-inch pots 
