280 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 25, 1890. 
Mushroom bed material, and half-inch bones and charred garden 
rubbish, may well be added to fresh loam, turfy if possible, and a 
portion of fresh garden soil can also be mixed with the heap if need 
be. The old roots will probably form some fresh fibres this autumn, 
and freely next summer, the rest of the roots being lifted and relaid in 
fresh soil in the autumn. 
Root-pruning Young Trees.— When young and not over-pruned 
trees are growing rankly and produce few or no fruit, this is a sure 
sign they want checking at the roots. Even those that are fairly fruitful 
will frequently be benefited by partial root-pruning, this checking 
undesirable deep root action, and tends to keep their roots more active 
near the surface. The method of procedure may be much the same as 
that advised in the case of older trees, and if the trees are fairly large 
one side only should be done this season, the other half being left for 
next autumn. Those that have only been planted two or three years 
may be worked completely round, these having fewer extra strong deep 
running roots to cut through. Nor do the latter require any fresh soil, 
but a little turfy loam will not be wasted on the comparatively large 
trees. If any flag badly after the root-pruning, syringe frequently, 
and shade from bright sunshine. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Early Forced Trees in Pots. —Examine the roots of these, 
and as it is not advisable to increase the root room, particularly in the case 
of large trees, remove a few inches of soil from the base, cutting back 
the roots, and supply fresh fibrous loam, adding a sixth of old mortar 
rubbish, and a sprinkling of steamed half-inch bones. Good drainage 
must be provided, the soil being well rammed in the pots. Remove the 
loose surface soil and supply the above compost, adding a fourth of well 
decomposed manure. Afford a good watering, and place the trees 
where they can have plenty of air with shelter from heavy rains and 
frost. When it is desirable to increase the size of the trees, or 
young trees necessitating larger pots, it is necessary to remove the old 
drainage to cut back the straggling roots, loosening the sides of the ball, 
shortening the roots a little, removing ihe surface soil, and after draining 
the pots efficiently, sprinkle over the crocks a few crushed bones, repot 
firmly, ramming the soil well. Afford a good watering, and stand the 
trees in a cool rather dry place safe from frost. 
Planted-out Trees. —Keep these drier at the roots, but avoid extreme 
dryness, and a drier condition of the atmosphere will tend to promote 
the ripening of the growths. Nothing contributes more to perfecting 
the growths and a good show of fruit in the coming season than keeping 
the points of the shoots well up to the light; therefore allow the growths 
to have their points exposed to light and air, those on roof trellises, 
which are much the best, being permitted to point towards the glass, 
the nearer they are to it without touching the better. As soon as the 
latest trees are cleared of their crops keep the soil drier at their roots 
and the houses well ventilated in favourable weather, cutting out all 
useless wood, exposing that left to air and light. Trees that grow too 
luxuriantly should be lifted directly the leaves begin falling, reducing 
their rooting area, shortening long roots, especially that are bare of 
fibres, cutting off those that strike straight down, rectifying the drainage 
where defective, adding some old mortar rubbish to the soil if deficient 
in calcareous matter, and making the soil firm, the roots being laid in 
evenly and well up to the surface. Give a good watering, keeping the 
atmosphere dry, and freely ventilate the house. 
Vines. — Houses Cleared of Grapes. —Vines from which the Grapes 
have been cleared should now be divested of laterals down to the principal 
buds, which are to be retained for next year’s fruiting, doing so, however, 
without injury to the old leaves, as upon their preservation depends the 
maturity of the buds, which should be plump and well ripened. The 
shoots, however, must not be reduced too much, allowing in each case a 
few buds or joints beyond the pruning buds to remain as an outlet for 
any surplus sap, and so prevent undue excitement or premature develop¬ 
ment of the pruning buds. A free circulation of air is necessary, and 
in the case of young Vines, or in those that are unduly vigorous, or 
where there is the least doubt about the thorough maturity of the wood, 
fire heat will be necessary. When the laterals have been removed, the 
old mulching or surface dressing should be cleared away, the border 
pointed over lightly, but not interfering with or damaging the roots, 
giving a top-dressing of turfy loam, with a sixth of sweetened horse 
droppings or farmyard manure, and a sprinkling of bonemeal. If the 
Vines do not make firm wood omit the manure and afford a good 
handful per square yard of bonemeal along with the turfy loam. If the 
roots have not penetrated the mulching or last year’s surface dressing, 
remove the soil down to them, and give fresh compost, but do not cover 
them deeply, 2 or 3 inches depth is quite sufficient. Follow in the case 
of inside holders with a moderate watering, and allow those outside to 
have the benefit of October rains, and instead of adding manure to the 
loam mulch the surface with 2 or 3 inches of fresh horse droppings, 
covering with dry litter or bracken by the end of October or early 
November. Now is a good time to add a breadth of 2 feet to the front 
of borders only partly made, using fresh collected materials, all clean 
and sweet, also in good working condition, choosing dry weather 
if possible for work of this kind, mulching with horse droppings, 
and covering with leaves and a little litter to prevent their blowing about. 
Late Grapes. —Evidence of finish in these will not always bear close 
scrutiny. Make sure that the berries are finished quite up to the 
stalk before withdrawing the needful aid from fire heat. Alicante 
invariably finishes well, and Lady Downe’s always better than Mrs. 
Rince, which requires more heat and a longer time to perfect its 
berries, and it is not as good a keeper as Lady Downe’s, the last 
being the best of late-keeping Grapes, neither shrivelling nor losing 
quality or colour like the others. Gros Guillaume well done is 
quite as noble in appearance as Gros Colman ; both have soft or 
fleshy footstalks, and though the berries colour perfectly they are not 
good keepers, the footstalks failing to keep the requisite consistence, 
often failing before the berries. Of the two Gros Guillaume is the better 
flavoured, but its bunches are too large for everyday use, and Gros 
Colman allowed to hang some little time parts with much of its 
disagreeable earthiness. Its noble appearance and usual deep colour 
and delicate bloom always command admiration. Syrian, Trebbiano, 
and Calabrian Raisin have enormous bunches, which detract from their 
usefulness, militating against good finish, and however well grown 
they are, with all white or yellow-skinned Grapes, more susceptible of 
damage from damp than black Grapes. Like all thick-skinned Grapes, 
they require a long time to mature after they are apparently ripe, 
consequently a temperature of 55° should be assured, with a rise of 
5° to 10° by day, and a circulation of air until the foliage is giving 
indications of falling, when a temperature of 50° will be sufficient. 
The inside borders must not be allowed to become too dry. Water if 
necessary early on a fine day, and cover with a dry mulch as a safeguard 
against damp and to avoid a repetition of the watering. Outside borders 
will not require watering, as they usually at this season are damp enough ; 
but it is essential to the sound and plump keeping of the Grapes that 
the soil be moist, lack of moisture at the roots being a chief cause 
of shrivelling when it does not arise from imperfect finish. If in a 
proper state of moisture they should be covered, preferably with lights, 
or some other means must be employed to throw off the wet, as satura¬ 
tion repeatedly from heavy rains is destructive of the roots, besides 
reducing the temperature of the soil needlessly. 
Late Muscats.— If these are not now perfectly finished continue 
rather sharp firing in the daytime, with a free circulation of air and 
enough at night to prevent the deposition of moisture upon the berries. 
There is danger of the Grapes shrinking if there be a deficiency of 
moisture at the roots, and when water has to be given to inside borders 
where the Grapes are in an advanced stage of ripening, there is danger of 
spot, though it may be pre vented by a free circulation of air, and covering 
the border with dry material. Indeed, moisture must be kept down by 
a buoyant atmosphere, pent-up air with a sudden increase of warmth 
from sun being sure to induce moisture to condense on the berries, 
which will cause spot, and then the Grapes will speedily decay. The 
inside borders should be covered with clean dry straw or matting to 
prevent moisture arising. When the Grapes are thoroughly matured 
a gradual reduction of temperature must take place, about 50° at night 
being necessary for Muscats after they are matured. 
Late Black Hamburghs. —These finish and colour at a late period 
better than the thick-skinned varieties. Those that are now colouring 
and advanced in ripening should have a temperature of 60° to 65° at 
night, and 70° to 75° in the daytime, with a circulation of air constantly, 
not a lowing the border to become dry, but giving a good watering if 
they are only partially advanced in ripening, and mulch with rather 
short dry material. Hamburghs like a good spread of foliage, therefore 
only restrict the laterals to prevent overcrowding ; but after the Grapes 
are finished further extension must be avoided, yet not reducing the 
foliage much, as this assists Hamburghs to keep their colour. When 
ripe a temperature of 45° to 50° must be maintained, and air freely 
admitted by day whenever the weather is favourable, never allowing 
the temperature to rise considerably before air is admitted, as moisture 
will then be condensed by the cooler surface of the berries and their 
tissue be destroyed, the epidermis parting from the flesh. 
Houses of Ripe Grapes. —Black Hamburghs and all the thin- 
skinned black Grapes lose colour by hanging. Nothing preserves them 
better than a good spread of their own foliage, and where this is scanty 
or only moderate some herring net doubled over the roof lights will 
materially assist in the Grapes keeping colour. A moderate amount of 
air moisture is beneficial to the foliage and not inimical to the Grapes, 
only the air is not stagnant, and air is given early enough to prevent 
the sun heating the atmosphere, and causing moisture to be deposited on 
the berries. In too dry an atmosphere the Grapes are liable to shrivel, 
especially when the Vines are dry at the roots, it not being uncommon 
to see Vines with their roots entirely inside ripening their foliage and 
the Grapes shrivelling, whilst Vines in outside borders have fresh foliage 
and plump Grapes. That in the same house. The Grapes should be 
looked over frequently for the removal of decayed berries, damp being 
their greatest enemy. 
Young Vines. —Those planted last spring or early summer will need 
every encouragement in keeping the foliage clean and healthy ; also 
keep the laterals away from the principal leaves in order to their free 
exposure to light and air, especially those at the base of the canes, so 
that the buds to which the Vines are to be pruned may be thoroughly 
ripened, and the wood at that part thoroughly firm and stored with 
food. A genial warmth in the pipes by day will assist the wood to 
mature, and ripening will be induced by throwing open the ventilators 
at night. Although a somewhat dry condition at the roots is desirable 
it must not be persisted in to the extent of causing the soil to crack. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Allamandas. —The growth of plants that have been used in the con¬ 
servatory has nearly ceased. If these are removed at once where the 
night temperature ranges to 60° they will soon start into growth again, 
and continue to yield flowers until Christmas. Fully expose them to 
the sun and supply stimulants liberally if the pots are full of roots. 
Plants that flowered early may be induced to rest by placing them in a 
