292 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 2, 1890. 
Kawlings Bros., for Dahlias ; Mr. J. T. West, for Dahlias ; Mr. T. S. 
Ware, for Dahlias ; and to Messrs. H. Cannell & Son, for Dahlias. 
Silver Banltsian Medal. —To Messrs. Dobbie & Co., for Dahlias ; 
Mr. Geo. Humphries, for Dahlias; Messrs. Saltmarsh & Son, for 
Dahlias ; Messrs. Heath & Son, for Dahlias; Messrs. H. Canned & Sons, 
for Begonias ; and to Messrs. Harkness & Sons, for hardy flowers. 
Bronze Band si an Medal. —To Mr. J. Tranter, for Dahlias ; Mr. W. 
Salmon, for Dahlias; Messrs. Keid & Borneman, for Chrysanthemums ; 
and to Messrs. J. Peed & Sons, for Dahlias. 
Awards of Merit. —For Chrysanthemum (Pompon) Miss Lilly 
Stevens, from Messrs. Reid & Borneman ; and Laslia Eyermanni, from 
Messrs. Pitcher & Manda. 
DAHLIA CONFERENCE. 
Certificates of merit were given to the following blooms, as shown in 
the stands of the various exhibitors Centennial (C.), from Messrs. 
J. Cheal & Sons ; Melita (C.), from Mr. T. S. Ware ; Comedian (F.), 
from Messrs. Keynes, Williams & Co. ; Beauty of Arundel (C.), from 
Mr. Burbury ; Eldorado (S.), from Mr. C. Turner; Othello (P.), from 
Mr. C. Turner; The Mikado (P.), from Mr. C. Turner ; A. W. Tait (C.), 
from Messrs. H. Canned & Sons ; Daisy (P.), from Mr. J. T. West. 
The following varieties, which have been under trial in the gardens, 
also received certificates of merit :— 
7 Cactus vars. —IPonoria, Panthea, Juarezi, Empress of India, A. W. 
lait, and Mrs. Hawkins from Messrs. Keynes, Williams & Co. ; Juarezi 
from Mr. C. Turner ; Mrs. Hawkins, Henry Patrick, Charming Bride, 
and Lady Kerrison from Mr. T. S. Ware. 
Pompon vars. — Darkness, Brunette, Millie Wood, Fairy Tales, 
Whisper, Mdlle. V. Facourt, Gem, Red Indian, The Khedive, Janet, 
Rosetta, Rosalie, Lady Blanche, E. F. Junker, White Aster, Fashion, 
Isabel, and Mabel from Messrs. Keynes, Williams, & Co. ; Ernest, 
Isabel, Fanny W einer, Anna Zachman, Dove, Princess Sophie Sofiela, 
Cupid, Lady Jane, Admiration, and E. F. Junker from Mr. C. Turner. 
Single vars. —Miss Linaker, The Sport, Sunningdale White, Mr. 
Kennett, Alfonso, Lady Monckton, Cetewayo, Formosa from Messrs. 
J. Cheal & Sons : Florrie Fisher, Miss Henshaw, and Kate from Mr. 
T. S. Ware. 
Bedding vars. —Yellow Pet, Marguerite Bruant, and Flora Macdonald 
from Mr. C. Turner. 
Show vars. —Condor, J. B. Service, George Rawlings, Ovid, Mrs. 
Gladstone, Cyprus, Royalty, Primrose Dame, Leah, Goldfinder, Royal 
Queen, Diadem, Toison d’Or, Mrs. Glasscock, Statesman, Mrs. Harrison, 
and Pioneer from Mr. C. Turner. 
Fancy vars. Grand Sultan, Queen Mab, and General Gordon from 
Mr. C. Turner. 
Grape Conference. 
Certificates of merit were awarded to the following varieties, as 
shown in the different collectionsBlack Monukka, from H. Balder- 
son, Esq., and the Royal Horticultural Society; Canon Hall Muscat, 
trom Mr. W. Roupell ; Muscat of Alexandria, from Mr. G. Wythes ; 
Muscat Hamburgh and Alnwick Seedling, from the Royal Horticultural 
Society; Gros Colman and Gros Maroc, from Mr. Hooking ; Muscat of 
Alexandria, Muscat Champion, Alicante, and Black Hamburgh, from 
Mr. J. Louden. 
Certificates of merit were also accorded to Messrs. T. Rivers & Son 
for a collection of Frontignan Grapes ; to Mr. J. Wallis for a collection 
ot Grapes. The silver-gilt cup for examples of packing Grapes for 
private use went to Mr. Dawes ; and certificates of merit in the same 
class to Mr. J. Hudson, Mr. S. Castle, Mr. C. J. Waite, and Mr 
Hookings. 
Silver-gilt Banksian medals to Mr. W. Roupell for collection of 
Grizzly and Frontignan Grapes. Silver Banksian medals to Messrs. 
1. Rivers & Son, to Mr. St. Clair, to Messrs. Parrot Brothers, to Mr. 
1 eter Kay, and to Mr. Sweet, for collections of Grapes. 
HARDY FRUIT TREES. 
Fruit trees of nearly all kinds have been late in making their 
growth. The ravages of caterpillars and other pests early in spring 
retarded the growth of the trees, so much that many varieties of 
Apples are onlv now in active growth. The caterpillars and aphides had 
early in May taken possession of the trees to such an extent that the 
prospects of a crop of fruit seemed hopeless. They devoured the flowers 
before they expanded, and had curled themselves safely into the young 
shoots and leaves. We anticipated seeing the trees leafless in a short 
time, but fortunately succeeded in checking these pests beyond our 
expectations. 
The wall trees were hand-picked, as well as many of the bush trees, 
and this proved the most satisfactory of the methods tried. It takes 
considerable time, which is its main objection, but it appears to be the 
only certain method of destroying caterpillars if neglected until the 
insects cause the leaves to curl round them. If the trees are svringed 
or sprayed liberally with hellebore powder and water when the insects 
are first hatched their destruction is certain. We used the powder at 
the rate of three 2-inch flower pots full to four gallons of water. 
Heavy rains soon clear the powder from the trees, and it i 3 necessary 
to renew the application, for the caterpillars continue to hatch over 
a considerable period. This mixture is not so good as 8 lbs. of soft- 
soap, the same quantity of quassia chips, and tobacco paper, boiled 
together and then strained. This quantity will make 100 gallons. 
The trees syringed with this were quickly freed from aphides, and the 
caterpillars soon turned yellow and died. One dressing of this solution 
cleared one flat of bush Apple trees that were very badly attacked. No 
doubt the majority of the eggs were hatched, or did so very soon after 
the application, and were consequently destroyed as soon as they 
commenced feeding. It appears to me feasible, that if this, or some 
similar mixture, that will stick to or dry upon the leaves, was applied 
before the pests established a footing, injury to the trees and the 
destruction of the crop of fruit would be averted. I have in view 
bush and pyramidal trees of moderate size only, standards and large 
examples are much more difficult to deal with. Merely spraying the 
trees may prove effectual if repeated at short intervals, but where the 
trees were thoroughly soaked the most complete destruction followed. 
My object, however, is to call attention to the condition of the 
trees of the present time, and the treatment necessary to overcome 
as far as possible the evils of spring, and give them every chance of per¬ 
fecting bold fruit buds for another year. It is a mistake to leave wood 
in the trees that is not really wanted for another season. Bush and 
pyramidal fruit trees in too many gardens are too crowded with branches, 
which exclude light and sunshine, and weak puny fruit spurs are the 
result. Fruit buds in this condition, even if the fruit sets, are often 
poorly formed, small, and inferior in quality at the end of the season. 
Trees crowded with branches may appear perfect examples of manipu¬ 
lation during winter when divested of foliage, much more so than trees 
that have their branches thinly disposed. Once the trees have been 
crowded with branches purposely to have shapely specimens, they are 
often disfigured by the removal of branches afterwards, but this is only 
of secondary importance. The primary object of all cultivators should 
be fruit of the first size and quality. This can be accomplished, and 
shapely formed trees into the bargain, if the knife is used carefully and 
judiciously from the first. It cannot be impressed too forcibly that 
every branch of bush and pyramidal trees should be so disposed that 
the sun has free access to every leaf and spur. If the main branches 
of the trees are thinly disposed, and the current season’s growths are 
allowed to crowd the interior, the evil is as bad if not worse than crowd¬ 
ing the trees with main branches. 
Trees that are properly managed are pinched while the shoots are 
tender, so that a large amount of foliage has never to be removed at one 
time, the leader that is required for extension only being allowed to 
grow until the required length has been attained. All the growths that 
issue along the branches need not be left more than three inches in 
length when first stopped. This necessitates going over the trees again 
in August, and cutting back closely all growths that are made after the 
first pinching. Trees that are thin then devote all their energies to the 
development of the fruit and the perfection of spurs for another year, 
instead of wasting their energies on wood that is eventually to be cutaway. 
Where the lateral growths are allowed to extend throughout the season 
not only is the fruit deprived of light and support, but the fruit spurs as 
well. Trees that are gone over twice during the season of growth are in 
a satisfactory condition until the fruit has been gathered. Further 
thinning is then necessary, and all wood that is not required should be 
cut clean out, so that light and air has free access to the fruit spurs. As 
soon as the fruit is gathered the trees should have their final pruning, 
except perhaps old trees that are crowded with spurs. Much may be 
done in thinning these, but the final thinning is best left until the foliage 
has fallen. All wood unneeded from late varieties is cut away as soon 
as the fruit has been cleared from the earlier fruiting varieties. 
Early pruning is not only beneficial to the trees, but is much more 
pleasant now than during the cold short days of winter. This is not 
all. Early pruning allows of cleaning the fruit garden in autumn 
long before it could be done if pruning was delayed after the foliage 
had fallen. Trees that are crowded should have their main branches 
thinned directly the fruit is gathered. The distance the branches of 
bush and pyramid trees should be apart cannot be given here, for so 
much depends upon the growth of the tree and the size of its foliage. 
For instance, the branches of large foliage kinds, such as Warner’s 
King, Blenheim Orange, Betty Geeson, and others, need to be further 
apart than such varieties as King of the Pippins, Kerry Pippin, and others 
of similar growth. Some judgment is needed in thinning out the main 
branches of a tree, and only the experienced can determine their proper 
distance after the foliage has fallen, and even then may easily be 
deceived. While the foliage is upon the trees there is no difficulty. 
Shoots that are needed for the extension of main branches may be left 
from 6 to 18 inches in length, according to their strength and degree 
of ripeness. A good many of ours were pinched when only 2 inches 
in length, and consequently are being cut close back. Lateral growths 
may be cut back to two eyes if needed for furnishing the branches 
eventually with spurs, if not they should be cut out. It is much 
better not to prune the trees after the first few years of planting than 
to allow them to become overcrowded with branches. 
There are no reasons of any weight that can be adduced why pruning 
should not be completed simultaneously with the gathering of the fruit, 
or as soon after as possible. Raspberries may have the old canes 
removed as soon as the last fruit has been gathered, and all young 
canes cut away that are not wanted for bearing fruit the next season. 
The tops of the canes may be removed after the middle of September. 
Currants are better pruned during that month than two or three months 
later. The same may be said of Gooseberries, commencing early in 
September, and completing the operation as the fruit is gathered. 
Cherries and Plums may be finally pruned as the fruit is cleared from 
the trees, and Pears as well. Morello Cherries are frequently left until 
