Octoter 2 , 1890. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
299 
for the full exposure of the foliage to light and air, which is essential 
to sturdy growth and plump well developed crowns. Late and weakly 
plants may be assisted with weak liquid manure, but stimulants must 
not be given strong plants or it may cause them to push the flower 
buds, which if only partial splits up the crowns into a number of parts 
derogatory to a good show of trusses when placed in heat. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Carnations and Picotees. —A showery season has been favourable to 
the rooting of the layers generally, and abundance of strong plants 
ought now to be available. Newly rooted plants of choice varieties, as 
a rule, are potted and stored in cold pits and dry frames, though 
whether in many cases they would not do better planted out is a moot 
point. Supposing the layers are plentiful, both plans might well be 
resorted to, a failure being thereby guarded against, and it may be the 
foundation of a greater success than usual be laid. Those to be potted 
should be separated from the parent plants with a moderate amount 
of soil about the roots, and be given well drained 3-inch, or rather 
larger sizes if need be, and a compost of turfy loam, a little old Mush¬ 
room bed manure, and plenty of sharp sand. Pot rather firmly, water, 
and set in frames near to the glass. During the winter they ought to 
have abundance of light and air, and on no account to be subjected to 
much fire heat, mats and other coverings being the best safeguards against 
severe frosts. 
Planting out Carnations. — No time should be lost in getting either 
seedlings or plants, raised from cuttings or by layering, into their flower¬ 
ing quarters. A damp or low position does not suit them. They thrive 
best in slightly raised beds, to the soil of which has been freely added a 
good thickness of sandy loam and a little short sweet manure. These 
beds ought really to have been prepared for some time previous to plant¬ 
ing, in order that the soil should be well sweetened and pulverised. Nor 
should planting be attempted in wet weather, as it is of importance that 
the soil be well pressed about the roots without causing it to bind badly. 
Slightly raised beds 6 feet wide may hold five rows of plants put out 
about 12 inches apart. A sharp look-out must be kept for slugs, fre¬ 
quently stirring among the plants serving to keep these down, and if 
the frosts loosen the plants, as they often do, then must the soil be as 
often pressed about the roots again. Much of this upheaving may, how¬ 
ever, be prevented by mulching the beds with either leaf soil, spent tan, 
or old Mushroom bed manure. 
Pinhs. —These also should be planted out in beds directly they are 
sufficiently well rooted to bear removal with a trowel. Raised beds may 
well be formed for trees, the soil being prepared much as advised in the 
case of Carnations. A distance of 9 inches apart is ample. New 
plantations are by far the most satisfactory, the very old beds producing 
a larger number of flowers perhaps, but of a very inferior description. 
They do not fill up so rapidly as do Carnations, and a bed may be said to 
be at its best when about three years old. If no steps have been taken 
to strike a number of cuttings for planting out now, old plants may be 
pulled to pieces, and the divisions, whether furnished with roots or not, 
be deeply dibbled out into well prepared soil. All should be sunk wed 
up to the young leaves, the plants rarely doing well if any portion of 
the old stems are exposed. 
Pansies. —Seedlings grow and flower the most freely, and if the 
plants are large enough to put out into raised beds before wintry 
weather sets in the chances are a grand display will be had early next 
season. Plants raised from either seed sown or cuttings inserted at this 
late date ought to remain under glass till the spring, and these will 
afford an early summer display. Pansy cuttings strike very freely, and 
now is a good time to insert them, these being selected from young 
flowerless shoots, and otherwise treated similarly to what will be advised 
in the case of Violas. 
Bedding Violas.— These have done remarkably well this season, 
plenty of moisture being what they stand most in need of during the 
hot weather. Of late years this beautiful class of bedding plants have 
been enriched by the addition of several charming varieties, and seeing 
how easily many hundreds can be wintered with very little protection 
they ought to be even more extensively grown than they now are. The 
simplest way of raising and wintering the requisite stock is to prepare 
garden frames for their reception. If these are shallow they may be set 
on an old hotbed, or a bed may be formed of exhausted heating 
materials, no bottom heat whatever being either requ’red or desirable. 
Some rough soil should be placed in the bottom, or enough to bring the 
5 inches of sifted sandy soil placed on the top of it well up to the glass. 
Deep frames can be set on bricks or flower pots at each corner, a few 
barrowloads of old heating material being placed firmly in the bottom, 
and then rough and fine soil on the top, finishing off in this and the 
other case with a surfacing of sand. The best cuttings are those just 
springing from the centres of the old plants, and failing these the tops 
of old growths will do nearly as well. Shorten to about 3 inches in 
length, and insert them that distance apart each way all over the bed. 
A watering should be given, the lights put on, kept shaded in bright 
weather, and close for some time, abundance of air being given after 
they have commenced to form roots. A very little protection will 
suffice to preserve them from severe frosts. 
Calceolarias.— These again have done very good service this season, 
and abundance of good cuttings are to be had. The firmest or most 
short-jointed flowerless shoots ought to be selected for making into 
cuttings, the soft undergrowth being discarded as much as possible. 
Cut just below the third joint, and trim off the lowest pair of leaves. 
In most other respects Calceolarias ought to be treated very similarly to 
Violas, no bottom heat being given them. Not being so hardy they will 
require more protection during the winter. If a few dozen plants only 
are needed these may either be struck and wintered in handlights or in 
boxes kept in cold frames. Calceolaria amplexicaulis is alike the most 
delicate and the most beautiful variety of all for bedding purposes, but 
even this must not be unduly coddled, fire heat, unless a little only is 
turned on in cold weather, being most injurious to this class of plants* 
Calceolaria cuttings may be put in any time before December, but if 
long delayed severe frosts might spoil them. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Onions Sprouting.—A.s we anticipated, the Onions not being wdll 
matured this season many of those drawn up about a month ago are 
sprouting again in the open shed where they were spread out to dry. 
It is chiefly those with thick necks that are doing this, and all the 
growths should be broken off them, and they should be the first used. 
Do not store them in a warm place, but keep them as cool as possible. 
On wet days the whole of the Onions may be examined. Remove the 
loose necks and skin, and store the sound bulbs in an airy loft for winter 
and spring use. 
Spring Cabbage. —These have grown well since they were planted 
in their permanent quarters. The first planted are now ready for 
earthing. Some think there is no advantage in this operation, but it 
keeps the plants firm, and prevents their shaking about in the wind, 
which they otherwise do when the heads become heavy. They are also- 
more hardy and robust in winter if the roots are growing in a firm soil,, 
and before earthing tread round each plant until the soil is as firm as. a 
road. This we have frequently proved is a sure way of securing compact 
plants, which are always the most desirable. 
Late Kidney Beans. —Runners were unusually slow in podding 
in summer, but they have been uncommonly prolific since. Some late 
rows that are beginning to form pods will prove useful in October and 
November if they escape frost. Those that have been bearing all the 
season are of little use for a late supply. Late Dwarf Beans in tho- 
open that are about to flower must have frames and glass lights placed 
over as many of them as can be protected. Place the lights over them 
every night and when it is wet, but remove them on fine days. If the 
plants are crowded they will hold too much moisture amongst the leaves 
to fruit well, and some of the plants should be thinned to avoid crowd¬ 
ing. Where Kidney Beans are desired at Christmas a quantity of seed 
of Ne Plus Ultra should be sown in small pots at once. Place them in 
a cold frame, let them remain there until they are ready for transferring 
into larger pots, and then place them into a warmer pit or house where 
the atmosphere is not too close. 
Young Potatoes in Winter. —It is surprising that those who 
devote much attention to the production of choice vegetables in and 
out of season do not grow Potatoes more generally for a supply at 
Christmas. Last October we made up a hotbed to hold a dozen lights 
or frames, placed soil into them, planted early Potatoes as if it was the 
spring crop, and we had many choice dishes at midwinter. The position 
must.be sheltered and sunny, and the bed and frames should stand at a 
sharp angle to catch the sun and escape damp. Shaipe’s Victor has 
succeeded well with us in autumn. 
Salading. —The Lettuce plants for the winter supply are now 
ready for transplanting. Some of them should be placed into frames 
at a distance of 6 inches apart, but do not protect them until it is 
necessary. They will soon establish themselves in good soil, and they 
can readily be protected from frost. At the same time plant a quantity 
at the bottom of the garden wall, or anywhere that shelter is afforded- 
Endive may be treated in the same way, and in mild localities a quantity 
may be planted in the open garden. Winter Radishes of the China 
Rose and Black Spanish types now showing should be thinned to 
2 inches apart. Mustard and cress will not grow in the open now, and 
must be sown under protection. 
Winter Spinach. —We never had this more promising. It is a 
useful winter vegetable, but those who have the plants crowded and 
without thinning will find it suffer much more from frost than when it 
is thinned in good time, so that each plant stands clear of the other. 
These will furnish more useful leaves than a crowd of plants. 
Late Sown Carrots. —In common with many others, when our 
Carrot crop sown in April was badly attacked with the grub in July 
the prospect of having our usual supply of Carrots in winter was not 
bright, but by adopting our usual practice of sowing again when a crop 
is failing we have now a large quantity of clean healthy young Carrots. 
They are not so large as the April roots would have been, but they are 
of a most useful size, and we are seriously considering whether in years 
to come it would not be better to be less anxious to sow the main crop 
in April or May. July sown crops rarely suffer from grubs, and there 
is no doubt as to their gaining a useful size by October. This matter is 
worth the consideration of growers. 
Vacant Ground. —Lifting Potatoes and clearing of Peas and other 
crops will leave some vacant quarters. These are often allowed to 
remain with the old stems and roots in the ground until midwinter 
t»r later, but this is a bad plan, and the best way is to clear all refuse 
off or burn it on the ground, and dig it roughly immediately afterwards. 
This gives the garden a good appearance, and is also most beneficial to 
the soil. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Gladiolus The Bride.— Plants that flowered during the early part of 
June in the greenhouse and have since been standing outside should be 
repotted before they start into growth. If this is done at once the old 
soil can be shaken from the corms, and then placed thickly together in 
