300 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 2, 1890. 
T->-inch pots, and covered with about half an inch of soil. After potting 
they may stand outside or be placed in cold frames, where they will 
soon start into growth. If placed outside plunge the pots in ashes, and 
just cover the surface of the soil with the same material that has been 
passed through a fine sieve. 
Liliuni candidum .—Bulbs that were potted a short time ago and 
liave started into growth should be placed in cold frames ; they will be 
perfectly safe in this position until it is necessary to force them. When 
the flower spikes appear they should have greenhouse treatment; no¬ 
thing is gained by hurrying them. As their flower stems lengthen a 
sharp look out must be kept for aphides. 
Lilium Harrisi. —These may still be potted, and placed in cold 
frames until they start into growth. Be careful that the soil is in an 
intermediate state of moisture. When placed in frames fill in between 
the pots, and cover the rim to prevent watering with c.coanut-fibre 
refuse. Directly they show through the plunging material they should 
be lifted out at once, and if required in flower early it will be necessary 
to place them where they will be safe from frost. They delight in 
standing on a moist base, and must not be hurried before the flowers 
are formed, when a temperature of 60° will do no harm. Until they 
reach this stage a temperature of 50° should not be exceeded. 
Epac rises. —Remove these from frames to give room for Cinerarias, 
Calceolarias, and other plants. Select for Epacrises a light position, 
where they can have abundance of ventilation. Stand the pots on ashes 
or some other moisture-holding material. Be careful that they do not 
become dry at their roots, or the material upon which they stand. 
Syringe the plants lightly on fine days in the morning and afternoon. 
Solanums. The earliest plants will have a number of coloured 
oerries upon them, and should be placed in cold frames or in the green¬ 
house at once. \\ hichever position is selected the base should be a 
moist one, and the plants liberally supplied with water. Soot water is 
very beneficial, and will impart to the foliage a fine dark hue. Later 
plants in pots that have set a good number of berries should be placed 
uuder cover. Lift those that are planted out, and place them for a week 
behind a north wall, give a good soaking of water, and syringe several 
times daily until they commence rooting afresh, when they may be 
placed in frames. J J 
Callus. Where these are grown in pots, and if required in bloom as 
eaily as possible, place them at once in the greenhouse or any other 
i? structure. Small plants in 3-inch pots that are well rooted 
should be placed into G-inch. Lift all that are outside, and place them 
in pots according to their strength. No harm will result from reducing 
their roots considerably provided the roots are preserved. If treated the 
same as advised for Solanums they will soon be sufficiently established 
pots for any position. In case of frost protect them with 
tiffany. 
Salvias. Those that have been grown in pots may be placed into 
10-inch if large plants are desired. Do not pinch them again. Lift 
those that have been planted out, and place them in various sized pots. 
JLhey will soon become established if given the treatment advised for 
Cal las. 
Bouvardias. Do not leave longer in cold frames ; remove them 
to a light house where the temperature at night can be prevented 
railing below 55°. Give the plants weak stimulants every time they 
need water. Large trusses will result, and be produced in succession 
tor a long time. 
!• Begonias. Plants that are still in frames should be placed in a 
tight house where a free circulation of air can be given by day, and 
where the night temperature will not fall below 50°. Keep the 
atmosphere as dry as possible. Tuberous Begonias that have done 
flowering may be allowed to go to rest; dry then gradually, or the 
tubers are very liable to decay. Seedlings and those raised from 
•cuttings that have attained fair size and have commenced flowering 
will continue to do so in the conservatory for a long time. Later plants 
should be given gentle heat, and they will soon commence flowering 
and yield suitable blooms for cutting for some weeks. Start into 
growth a few plants that have rested of weltoniensis and others of a 
similar nature. Repot young plants that need more root room. 
Azaleas. These are frequently at this season outside and in various 
positions in consequence of their different stages of growth. No time 
should be lost in training those that have been closely tied in ; the 
foliage will then turn to the light before winter. Arrange the whole of 
these in their winter quarters. Examine them for thrips, and if any are 
round wash the plants in a solution of tobacco water, 1 oz. of softsoap 
to the gallon, and a piece of common washing soda the size of a Cob 
Transplanting Evergreens. —Conifers and various evergreen 
shrubs can be moved safely at this time of the year, and for 
several reasons we prefer to do as much as possible of the work 
ot transplanting now, forming new shrubberies and re-arranging the 
old ones. At this time of year it often happens more men can well be 
spared fiom other work than is the case in the spring, and, moreover, 
the state of the ground favours the operations. When a tree or shrub 
is carefully transplanted thus early in the autumn they have time to 
partially recover from the check, and very frequently form fresh root 
nore before cold weather stops all active growth. If placed in a good 
position, and always, if possible, in rather better soil than they were 
previously rooting in, they rarely experience a great check, and form 
good growth the following season. We find that not enough rain has 
fallen to well moisten the soil near the stems of the trees, and much 
sheltered soil is still quite dry a little way below the surface. No tree 
or shrub ought to be moved in a dry state at the roots. A basin should 
be formed, opening out the soil near the stems in extent according to 
the size of the ball to be removed, and after this has been filled with 
water a few times the soil will be found well moistened to a good depth 
below. Never drag a tree or shrub out of its position. A good trench 
ought always to be opened out with forks around it, and the tree well 
undermined, nor should a very large ball of soil about the roots be 
aimed at, these very frequently breaking away in large pieces. Pick 
away with a fork all unoccupied surface soil, and flatten the ball under¬ 
neath while it yet rests on a small pedestal of subsoil. It can then be 
safely slipped on to a strong board or barrow, and carried to a fresh site, 
and which ought previously to have been well and deeply dug. Mix 
leaf soil or spent manure with the surface soil, and plant rather above 
the level.—W. I. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Home. 
After two months’ absence I am home again, but how glad 
would I be could I say that Leadhills was my home. It is truly a 
country for bees during June, July, August, and September, and 
what a resort for health and pleasure amongst the hills and dales. 
The welcome home was agreeable ; heaps of literature and letters 
awaited me, and from some of my correspondence I must beg a 
little indulgence. 
After being shut up for forty-five hours the bees reached home 
safely. A partial covering to keep off the rain for a few days 
until the manipulations are past will be given, and a thorough 
covering will be supplied later on. To prevent robbing our strong 
stocks have not more than 1 inch of doorway, no ventilation. 
Weighing the Stocks. 
I have not had time yet to weigh all my stocks, of which with 
one exception, a nucleus, all are good, and have during the month 
of September risen in weight about 50 lbs. This will give a small 
surplus from each hive, but the exact quantity will not be known 
until further on. I have, however, selected two, my best Carniolian 
and the second best Punic, and I am pleased to say that the greatest 
weight has been gathered by the Punics. They aie my two heaviest 
hives, the second best one scoring 9 lbs. more than my best 
Carniolian. The other I have not weighed yet. The nett weights 
of the two contents of these hives are 70 lbs. “ A Hallamshire Bee¬ 
keeper,” in a private letter, states, “ That unlike other breeds the 
pure Punic bees are the best honey gatherers.” Can he help us to 
secure the number of queens that may be wanted ? The test they 
have been put to is a fair one, and will be remembered. The Punics 
were mere nuclei in the spring of the present year, so that although 
first at the last were really last at the first. 
The temper of these bees appears to be very mild, and although 
I have not as yet seen nor tasted their honey, I will not be long 
until I do, as I have it for the taking. They were the first, if not 
the only ones, that secreted wax for comb building in the super, 
which the untoward season alone prevented. I have other remarks 
to make, which must be held over till a future occasion. 
Ventilation. 
It is well known that since I made public my method of 
ventilation, both British and Continental bee-keepers have taken 
the hint, but some of them, recommending a method most injurious 
to bees, by advising a very wide doorway, which creates a severe 
draught, and brings on dysentery on the bees, the cause being 
attributed to honey. When hives are ventilated in any manner so 
as to expose the contents of the hive to the direct action of the 
air, the honey is liable to ferment, and the odour at all times attract 
robber bees. This, together with a wide doorway, causes the bees 
inside to cluster closely, and the robber bees have an easy task to 
enter without opposition, and despoil the hive of its valuable con¬ 
tents. A narrow entrance, with an insensible under and upward 
ventilation, is how to winter bees successfully. I often give my 
