October 9, 1890. ]J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
325 
present month, we think most, if not all, the blooms may be kept in 
good condition till the time you require them. The question of stimu¬ 
lants must be decided in accordance with the state of the plants, but 
you had better avoid the too free use of liquid manure. 
Two Peacbes for Forcing (II. C. B.). —All points considered 
there are not, perhaps, two better Peaches for forcing than Hale’s Early 
and Royal George. Alexander ripens in advance of Hale’s Early, and is 
large and of good colour, yet though brisk and juicy has not the quality 
of those named. If you want the earliest fruit you may plant Alex¬ 
ander and omit Royal George, which, however, b the surest forcer of all 
Peaches. Alexandra differs from Alexander, and is a splendid Peach of 
the Noblesse race, but not suitable for very early forcing, being subject 
to cast its blossom buds when started early in the season. 
Coe’s Bate Red (IF B.). —Dove Bank is an earlier and larger 
Plum ; yours is Coe’s Late Red, also known as St. Martin and 
St. Martin Rouge, ■which is thus described in the “ Fruit Manual : ”— 
Fruit, medium sized ; round, marked on one side with a deep suture. 
Skin, bright purple, covered with a thin blue bloom. Stalk, three- 
quarters of an inch long, not depressed. Fruit, yellowish, firm and 
juicy, with a sweet and sprightly flavour, and separating from the 
stone. A late Plum, ripening in the end of October, and hanging for 
a month or six weeks later ; this is a valuable variety. Shoots 
downy. 
White Mould in Mushroom Bed (.7. IF C .').—We suspect 
3'gu have dried the manure too much. Read carefully what is said on 
this subject in the sixth edition of 11 Mushrooms for the Million.” It is 
well also to remember what Mr. R. Gilbert says in the same work— 
namely, “ To gather horse droppings, then lay them in a shed, dry them, 
and turn them till there is no strength left in them, and then to expect 
Mushrooms, is to me something like madness.” You ought to have 
moistened the manure before making the bed. We do not know 
whether you can bring it into the requisite condition now, but you can 
try, and it would be advisable to use weak clear liquid made from fresh 
horse manure, at a temperature of 90°. The beds should be covered to 
prevent their drying. 
Iceland Poppies (TF. E. ).—Sturdy plants, the result of thin sow¬ 
ing, or early thinning, usually pass the winter if transplanted early in 
firm well-drained soil. Ours were transplanted a foot apart a month 
ago, and this work cannot be done too soon now. Too rich and wet soil, 
and plants made tender by growing them too thickly together, are the 
chief causes of the collapse of these plants. You will perhaps do best 
to transplant in a bed a little smaller than your frame, so that this can 
be placed over them in case of need in very wet and alternate frosty 
weather in winter, but avoid “ coddling.” If you state the kinds of 
fruit trees to which you refer, also about their age, size, and especially 
the length and thickness of the summer shoots, we will advise you on 
root-pruning. Your question as put cannot be answered usefully. 
Pruning- Fruit Trees (St. Jxdicn). —The advice given not to cut 
back the leaders of oblique cordon trees is sound. There is much more 
likelihood of the buds pushing fruitless growths if the leaders are 
shortened than of the stems being bare if not cut back. In nineteen 
cases out of twenty blossom buds form on the stems when not 
shortened, always provided the trees are not cr >wded by training them 
too closely. Until horizontal trained trees reach to the extent desired 
along the wires the leaders need rot be shortened, unless the ends are 
very soft or terminate in a fruit bud. If we understand the condition 
of your trees the “ leaders ” to which you allude as being 2 or 3 feet 
above the top wire come under the category of breast wood, that is they 
issue from the sides of the main branches, and are not a mere elonga¬ 
tion of the ends. In this case they ought to have been suppressed long 
ago. Cut them back at once to two or three leaves at the base of each, 
and do not let similar shoots grow so wildly another year. Perhaps the 
trees need root-pruning, but on this we cannot advise without knowing 
their age, size, and general condition. 
Peach and Vine Border Making (7. R.). —The turf is a dark 
loam, evidently of vegetable origin, containing little silicious or calca¬ 
reous matter. We should therefore mix 1 ton of quicklime with every 
ten cartloads of the turf when in good working order, mixing thoroughly. 
This for both the Peaches and Vines. Then for a Peach border add two 
cartloads of clay, dried and pounded, and one cartload of old mortar 
rubbish freed of pieces of wood to every ten of the turf. Half a bushel 
each steamed bonemeal or ground coprolites, and wood ashes may be 
added with advantage to every cartload of soil. Incorporate all well 
together, making the border in a dry time. It would be best to confine 
the roots to the inside border in the first instance,bricking up the arched 
openings. A 4 feet 6 inches width of border is ample to begin with, 
and 8 to 10 feet of border is quite sufficient at any time for trees in a 
house of the width shown on the plan, the trees we presume being 
planted in front of the house, and trained to a roof trellis about 1 foot 
from the glass. A 6 feet width of border inside and 4 feet width out¬ 
side would answer very well. If you have trees on the back wall there 
is still ample width to make a border for them, but with trees trained 
to a roof trellis trees on the back wall will do very little good after the 
first two or three years. There is no reason whatever why the Peach 
border should come up to the walk. Have that where most convenient 
or sightly, but do not make the Peach or Vine border to suit any path¬ 
way. For the Vine border add two cartloads of old mortar rubbish to 
every ten of the loam, treated as before advised, and one cartload of 
clay, as finely divided as possible, and these thoroughly incorporated 
will form a suitable compost for the Vine in your case. Half a ton of 
crushed bones may be added to the fourteen cartloads and 15 bushels 
of charcoal, but they are not necessary, especially the bones, which are 
best given as dust at the surface, or along with wood ashes as advised 
for the Peach border, doubling the proportions. The Vine border should 
be made in parts as advised for the Peach border, the inside first, say a 
6 feet width, and add a 2 feet breadth annually or biennially as re¬ 
quired, and when the inside is occupied with roots then make the out¬ 
side border, and 9 feet width of that will be better than a great mass 
of soil, which for the most part is of no practical use to the Vines, and 
does far more harm than good. 
Names of Fruits.— The names and addresses of senders of fruit 
to be named must in all cases be enclosed with the specimens, whether 
letters referring to the fruit are sent by post or not. The names are 
not necessarily required for publication, initials sufficing for that. Only 
six specimens can be named at once, and any beyond that number cannot 
be preserved. (S. and M.). —The Apple closely resembles Lord Suffield. 
(IF B .).—It is Coe’s Late Red. See reply above. (Festa).—3, Braddick’s- 
Nonpareil. 4, Hanwell Souring. 6, Boston Russet. The others not 
known. ( Constant Reader). —1, Cellini. 2, Winter Hawthornden. 3, 
Striped Beefing. 4, Sturmer Pippin. 5, Cox’s Orange Pippin, 6, 
Carraway Russet. (G. L. Court'). —Lamb Abbey Pearmain. (.7. J. 
Candy'). —16, Dumelow’s Seedling. 13, Winter Greening. 17, Red 
Autumn Calville. 7, Trumpington. 15, Quite rotten. Specimens not 
good and difficult to recognise. (IF. 7. J\lees ).—3, Golden Spire. 6 r 
Reinette du Canada. We cannot recognise the others. (A. B.). —1, 
Fondante d’Automne. 2, Beurre Capiaumont. 3, Louise Bonne of 
Jersey. 4, Manx Codlin. 5, Ribston Pippin. G, Ecklinville. You 
have sent us very deformed specimens. 
names of Plants.—We only undertake to name species of plants, 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes. 
Slightly damp moss, soft green grass or leaves form the best packing, dry 
wool the worst. Not more than six specimens should be named at once, 
and the numbers should be visible without untying the ligatures, 
it being often difficult to separate them when the paper is damp, 
( Pelargoninvi ).—1, Phytolacca decandra ; 2, Polygonum cuspidatum.* 
(II. IF IF).—1, Begonia fuchsioides ; \2, Begonia Sutherlandi ; 3, In¬ 
sufficient ; 4, Begonia ferrea ; 5, Begonia natalensis ; 6, Begonia 
weltoniensis. (Inquirer). —The Lily is Lilium lancifolium album. 
(IF. R.). —1, Davallia bullata ; 2, Davallia Mooreana ; 3, Hypoderris 
Browni ; 4, Hypolepis distans. (M. -V.).—1, Aster novie anglim ; 2, Aster 
bessarabicus ; 3, Helianthus decapetalus ; 4, Helianthus multiflorus ;. 
5, Chamrepeuce diacantha. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET. —October 8th. 
Market quiet, with no alteration. 
FRUIT. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
a. 
8. 
a. 
8. 
a. 
Apples, h sieve. 
2 
6 
to 6 
0 
Lemons, case. 
35 
0to 45 
o 
„ Nova Scotia and 
Melons, each . 
i 
0 
2 
0 
Canada, per barrel 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Oranges, per 100 .. .. 
4 
0 
9 
0 
„ Tasmanian, p. case 
0 
0 
G 
0 
Peaches, dozen. 
1 
0 
8 
0 
Grapes, per lb. 
0 
9 
3 
0 
Plums, J sieve. 
4 
0 
9 
O 
Kentish Filberts, 100 lbs. 
0 
0 
50 
0 
St. Michael Pines, each.. 
2 
6 
0 
„ Cobs „ 
0 
0 
50 
0 
Strawberries, per lb. .. 
0 
0 
0 
O' 
VEGETABLES. 
8. 
a. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
8. 
a. 
Artichokes, dozen .. .. 
0 
0 
to 0 
0 
Mushrooms, punnet 
1 
6 
to 2 
0 
Asparagus, bundle .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Mustard <fe Cress, punnet 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Beans, Kidney, per lb. .. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Onions, bushel. 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Beet, Red, dozen 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Parsley, dozen bunches 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Brussels Sprouts, £ sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Parsnips, dozen .. .. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Cabbage, dozen .. .. 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Potatoes, per cwt. 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Carrots, bunch .. .. 
0 
4 
0 
0 
„ New, per lb. .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cauliflowers, dozen.. .. 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Rhubarb, bundle .. .. 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Celery, bundle. 
1 
0 
1 
8 
Salsafy, bundle .. .. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Coleworts, doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Scorzonera, bundle . . .. 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Cucumbers, doz. 
2 
0 
8 
6 
Seakale, per bkt. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Endive, dozen. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Shallots, per lb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Herbs, bunch . 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Spinach, bushel .. .. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Leeks, bunch . 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes, per lb . 
0 
3 
0 
6 
Lettuce, dozen . 
0 
9 
1 
8 
Turnips, bunch .. .. 
0 
0 
0 
* 
CUT 
FLOWERS. 
8 . 
a. 
8 . 
a. 
8 . 
a. 
8 . 
a. 
Arum Lilies, 12 blooms ., 
2 
0 to 4 
0 
Marguerites, 12 bunches 
2 
0 to 6 
O’ 
Asters, per bunch, French 
1 
0 
l 
G 
Maidenhair Fern, dozen 
„ English, 12 bnchs. 
3 
0 
6 
0 
bunches . 
4 
0 
9 
0 
Bouvardias, bunch 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Mignonette, 12 bunches.. 
1 
0 
3 
0 
Carnations, 12 bunches .. 
6 
0 
9 
0 
Pansies, dozen bunches .. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
„ 12 blooms .. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Pelargoniums, 12 trusses 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Chrysanthemum, 12 blms. 
1 
0 
3 
0 
„ scarlet, 12 bnchs 
3 
0 
6 
0 
„ 12 bunches 
4 
0 
12 
0 
Pinks (various), doz. bchs. 
6 
0 
9 
0 
Cornflower, doz. bunches 
1 
6 
3 
0 
Primula(doublo)12 sprays 
0 
G 
1 
0 
Dahlias, dozen bunches.. 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Roses (indoor), dozen .. 
0 
0 
1 
6 
Eucharis, dozen 
2 
0 
4 
0 
,, Red (Eng.) 12 bch. 
2 
0 
8 
0 
Forget-me-not, doz. bnch. 
1 
6 
4 
0 
„ Red, 12 blooms .. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Gardenias, 12 blooms .. 
2 
0 
4 
0 
„ Tea, white, dozen.. 
0 
6 
2 
0 
Gladiolus, 12 bunches .. 
6 
0 
12 
0 
„ Yellow. 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Gypsophila, per bunch .. 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Stocks, dozen bunches . . 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Lapageria, 12 blooms 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Sweet Peas, 12 bunches 
1 
6 
3 
0 
Lavender, dozen bunches 
3 
0 
5 
0 
Tuberoses, 12 blooms .. 
0 
3 
0 
9 
Lilac (French) per bunch 
5 
0 
6 
0 
Violets (Parme) ,. .. 
2 
6 
3 
G 
Lilium, various, 12 blms. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
„ Clark) . 
1 
0 
2 
0 
„ longiflorum,12 blms. 
4 
0 
G 
0 
„ (English), doz.bnch 
1 
0 
2 
0 
