October 23, 1890. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
853 
Cypripedium Constance. 
At the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Orchid 
'Committee on August 26th, 1890, Mr. Drewett 0. Drewett, 
Riding Mill-on Tyne, exhibited three hybrid Cypripediums that 
-may be welcomed as useful additions to the list. One of these 
named Alice was raised from C. Stonei and C. Spicerianum, the 
dorsal sepal white suffused with pale purple ; the petals are greenish 
yellow dotted with brown ; the lip is in the style of C. Stonei ; it 
is a delicate and pretty flower. C. Alfred is from C. venustum 
and C. phillipinense, somewhat like an enlarged and improved form 
of the seed parent. The third hybrid was named Constance, and 
was obtained from C. Stonei crossed with C. Curtisi. A flower of 
‘this is shown in fig. 40, and indicates the combination of characters 
cross as regards form. The dorsal sepal is broad 
and white with purplish streaks, the petals are 31 inches long, 
pale yellow with brownish purple dots, and a few marginal hairs. 
The lip resembles C. Stonei in shape and colour. The plant seemed, 
to be of vigorous and free-flowering habit, and the success Mr 
Fig. 40.— cypeipediuh Constance. 
Drewett has attained should encourage him to make further ex¬ 
periments.—C. 
Peristeria elata. 
At Dove Park, the residence of Mrs. Cope, Woolton, near 
Liverpool, I recently noticed two fine plants of the Dove Flower in 
bloom. The largest was in a 10 inch pot, and had four fine spikes ; 
the second in an 8-inch pot had two grand spikes, each carrying a 
large number of blooms. Mr. Carling, the gardener, evidently has 
the right system of culture. Plenty of heat and moisture, the 
latter judiciously applied, and a thorough season of rest when 
growth is completed, are the chief elements to its successful culture. 
It is so refreshing to see this Orchid when in flower that a note 
about it is always acceptable, for it is too often met with under 
indifferent conditions.—R. P. R. 
Odontoglossum Alexandras. 
W here the temperature was kept 50° to 55°throughout last winter 
flower spikes will be showing freely from the axils of the leaves at 
the base of the newly made pseudo-bulbs. Some care is necessary 
to protect these from slugs. A little cotton wool round the leaf 
and spike will often prove effectual, but it must be kept dry or is 
useless. Every time the plants are watered it must be renewed. 
If every care has been taken throughout the season slugs should 
not be numerous, and may be kept down by examining the plants 
soon after dark with a light, after damping well amongst the pots. 
A few tender Lettuce leaves may be laid down, and will prove a 
capital trap if inspected about two hours afterwards. If left until 
morning the slugs will feed and disappear again to their hiding 
places. ° Where slugs are very numerous the only certain remedy 
of protecting the spikes from their ravages is to suspend the plants 
from the roof. 
Odontoglossum Rossi majus. 
The earliest plants are unfolding their flowers, and with judi¬ 
cious management will yield a supply until February. For cutting 
purposes this is one of the most useful Orchids grown. Plants 
later on, as at this distance the seedlings do not require pricking off, 
consequently do not receive a check. After the seed is sown give 
a gentle watering, and cover each pan with a sheet of glass, and 
over this place a layer of mos3, to exclude light and so stop rapid 
evaporation. The best position for the pans is a moist pit, where 
the temperature averages about 60°. 
As soon as the seedlings appear remove the moss and glass, and 
place the pans near the roof, so as the little seedlings receive all 
possible light, or they will become “ drawn.” As soon as the second 
leaf appears, lift the seedlings out with a label with small balls of 
soil attached, and transfer into thumb pots. Pot rather firmly, 
just covering the small corms, but not the crown or stems, or 
the base of the leafstalk will become weak and the leaves fall 
over. The plants should then be placed on shelves near the glass, 
and stand on a base of cocoa fibre refuse kept moist, or if there is 
convenience plunge the pots to the rims. This keeps the roots 
healthy, preventing rapid evaporation. The soil must be fairly 
moist. Sprinkle the foliage on fine days, and as the sun gains power 
shade from bright sun, but expose to all the light possible. Early 
in April the plants should be ready for repotting into large 60’s. 
The soil at this potting should consist of two parts fibrous loam, 
one part sifted leaf soil, and one part well pulverised cow manure, 
with sand and charcoal broken up fine, and also with the addition 
of some old lime rubbish broken up. Pot rather firmly, making 
the surface level, and return them to the same position ; 
ventilate rather freely, but not so as to cause a draught or an arid 
atmosphere. 
The plants will grow rapidly, and when they are well rooted 
transfer into 5^ inch pots. Use the soil in a rather rough state, 
but the leaf soil and manure should be sifted. Pot firmly, as this 
is very important, and elevate the crown of the plant just above the 
surface. In our case the plants are now placed in cool brick pits 
facing the south, within 6 inches of the glass, and are also half 
plunged in cocoanut fibre refuse. Keep the frame rather close, 
and shade with tiffany from bright sun. The plants should be 
sprinkled about 3 30 p.m., and the lights closed. The plants must 
be carefully watered, taking care to use soft water both at the 
roots and over the foliage. During the daytime the lights must 
be tilted at the back according to the weather. 
Shade from bright sun, but during September the plants are 
only shaded to prevent injury. If they need shading, they 
receive it, as the foliage should not become limp whatever the 
season. No rule can be laid down, so the man in charge must be 
guided by surroundings. For instance, on account of our exposed 
position we cannot ventilate so freely, and the plants also require 
more shade than in a more sheltered garden. The first week in 
October will be time enough, for housing, and this should be into 
a light span-roof. Here the temperature should range about 50° 
as a minimum. The blooms in this temperature should become 
fully developed. Just a word on watering at this stage. This must 
be performed carefully but yet thoroughly, taking care not to pour 
water into the heart, or a number of blooms will suffer by damp. 
I have not yet mentioned insect pests. Green fly is about the 
only foe to contend with in an ordinary way. Some growers recom¬ 
mend fumigation, but I prefer dipping in a solution of quassia 
-chips and softsoap. A large number of plants may be done in a 
short time, and the mixture reaches all parts. When fumigators 
-are used the fly is apt to descend into the heart of the plant, and 
•come out again in a day or two.—A. Young. 
