October 23 , 1490. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
355 
which new roots are not quickly made after a shrub or tree has 
been replanted. In spite of this we annually thin many shrubs and 
trees so as to keep the shrubberies as presentable as possible. Plenty 
of shrubs and trees we move from 0 feet high to 12 feet high, and 
with excellent results, even the first year after removal. This month 
we have a good number to replant, such as Thuia Lobbi, Thuiopsis 
borealis, Picea Nordmanniana, Cedrus deodara, Abies grandis, A. 
Menziesi, and many others of the same class and size. I hope to 
have the work done with as little delay as possible, as I find the 
present is the best time for such work. The trees are in a much 
better state to resist the searching winds we experience in March 
and April than though they were not replanted until that period. 
I would strongly advise all who have shrubs of the size named 
not to destroy them, but set about replanting in the manner I 
will describe, as a few hints on the practical method of shrub 
moving may not be out of place at a seasonable time like the 
present. 
The first thing to do with any tree that has to be lifted is to 
tie up the lower branches with cords, so that they will not be in 
the way of those who have the soil to remove. The branches are 
made secure also from injury, as if left loose they might be broken 
or otherwise damaged. With four-pronged steel forks a trench is 
then dug in a circular form around the tree and 3 feet from the 
stem on all sides. A spade or small shovel is also required to 
remove the fine soil. By using forks the roots are not damaged 
nearly so much as if spades were used, in fact the latter tools 
are of little use here where so many large stones are encountered 
in lifting a tree or moving the soil in any manner. At a depth 
of 1 foot from the surface the soil is gradually worked out 
underneath the tree all round until a space of 2 feet under the 
centre of the tree remains. At this stage the tree will generally 
be ready to heel over by putting the forks underneath the “ ball ” 
of soil and roots at one side, lifting up the roots gradually ; at the 
same time someone should gently bend over the stem of the tree. 
When the tree is partly turned on its side we fix beneath the 
roots a part of what we call our lifting cloth, which consists of a 
square piece of sail cloth 5 feet over ; the sides are double thickness, 
being strongly sewn together, forming a hemmed side. Eight 
ropes, 5 feet long and half an inch in diameter, are secured to the 
cloth by fastening them to sewn eyelets in it—one at each 
corner, and an extra one between those named. 'The cloth is 
doubled in the middle, so that when the tree is bent on cne side to 
admit the canvas being placed underneath the tree, and then 
repeated on the opposite side, the remaining part of the cloth is 
pulled through with the ropes attached ; the tree is then allowed 
to assume a natural habit of erection. If the tree is properly 
balanced on the cloth the ropes afford a capital means of lifting it 
out of the hole on to a low trolley if any distance is to be travelled. 
The ropes are then made secure around the stem in such a manner 
that the cloth prevents the soil falling from the roots on the paths. 
If the weight of soil and roots is very great a stout plank is used to 
assist in removing the shrub from the hole on to the trolley and off 
it again, as it is easier to slide the mass of soil and roots up a gentle 
ascent on a plank than to lift the whole by sheer strength. The 
position which the plant is to occupy in its new quarters having 
been settled, the hole is prepared before the plant is removed from 
its old site, so that the roots shall not become dry by exposure ; 
these are kept covered as well as possible, which prevents shrivelling 
and check. For fully 1 foot around the roots the soil is removed, 
the bottom of the hole trenched 1 foot deep, which prevents water 
collecting. 
Care is taken that all shrubs are planted so that the surface 
roots will not be below the original level of the ground. The 
soil is broken fine and carefully placed about and amongst the 
roots, making the whole quite firm. Six inches from the surface 
a layer of partly decayed manure is placed on and covered 
with soil. If the soil is at all dry, a good soaking of water 
is given to the roots, and a thick mulching of manure is laid 
over them on the surface, which prevents evaporation of 
moisture from the roots Every tree that requires support is at 
once attended to. It is a bad plan to delay the staking of 
newly planted shrubs or trees ; the wind loosens the soil about 
the stems so much that a check to a quick growth is almost 
certain to take place, and in some instances results in death. For 
a 12-foot tree two stakes should be used if in a windy position. 
These are driven into the soil at a distance of 1 foot from the stem 
of the tree, a small piece of old bag or a wisp of straw is wrapped 
tightly around the stem, to prevent the bark being rubbed by 
vibration of the whole tree. Stout Hazel wythes is the best of any 
method to secure the plants to the stakes ; such wythes will last 
well for two years, and are much better than tar cord or thick 
string, which expands by exposure to the weather, which do not 
act upon the wythes in the same way, but they remain secure, and 
owing to their being stiff when twisted together, do not admit of the 
plants rocking with the wind. For a shrub 12 feet high, a stake 
5 feet out of the ground is long enough.—E. 
My experience with shrubs is very different from that of “ D. ' 
(see page 310). We have both very light and very heavy soils to 
deal with, and without exception the plants growing in the strongest 
loam and clay transplant the best. In every case the trouble of 
cutting back the roots is taken the spring preceding the autumn in 
which the shrubs are transplanted ; we thus secure a capital ball of 
soil, the outside at least of which bristles with growing points. 
I think it well to point out that your correspondent has not 
taken into account the following facts when condemning the 
practice of employing large shrubs instead of small ones. It some¬ 
times happens that the employment of specimens is absolutely 
indispensable. I often have such cases, and have ere now been at 
some trouble in securing large enough specimens from nurseries to 
meet certain requirements. Three years ago such a case occurred,, 
and again during the present year. I took the trouble to see that the 
shrubs were prepared a few months before removing them, and 
thus secured an immediate effect, which with ordinary shrubs- 
would have taken at least twenty years. 
Going back a dozen years, when the intensity of the frost 
destroyed many tender shrubs and killed others to the ground, we 
had bad backgrounds exposed which had to be concealed as quickly 
as possible. This was accomplished by removing large Yews, 
Portugal Laurels, and Rhododrendons from less important or over¬ 
crowded positions into these exposed spots. The result was im¬ 
mediate. What has followed where the injured shoots have made 
young growth has been to either remove the latter to other places 
requiring making up, or ;o take away the former and leave the old 
plants to fill their old positions. 
I prefer to remove all shrubs subject to damage by severe 
frost, from places where they cannot fail without causing a serious 
blank, and leave the quite hardy shrubs to do duty for them. At 
the present time I await an opportunity of securing a number of 
old and large shrubs, many of which must be from thirty to fifty 
years of age at the least. They all occupy positions where they 
would require to be cut back to allow other shrubs room to spread, 
but by removing them to other places which are too thinly planted, 
or where decaying plants require renewing, we feel amply repaid 
for the extra trouble. As regards Conifers, it is decidedly objection¬ 
able to buy in large plants, but when it happens that specimens are 
being damaged for want of space, there is no good reason why they 
should not be transplanted, and with ordinary care in cutting in the 
roots some months before operating, and with care in reiaaoving, 
quite as fine shoots may be made as in ordinary seasons. I find 
that the season the roots are cut, the growth is not so good, espe¬ 
cially if the weather be dry and no water given, but the next year 
growth begins to assume its normal state, and it is impossible to 
say from appearances that the specimen had been removed at 
all.—B. 
Memorial to the late Mr. William Holmes. 
A meeting of the members of the National Chrysanthemum Society 
and friends, convened by special circular, was held at the Royal 
Aquarium on Wednesday, October 15th, 1890, to consider the expediency 
of raising a memorial to the late Mr. William Holmes. 
Mr. E. Ballantine, Chairman of the Committee of the National Chrys¬ 
anthemum Society, presided, there being a large attendance of 
sympathisers. The circular calling the meeting having been read, it 
was stated that letters expressing approval of the proposal had been 
received from Mr. John McKenzie, Linton Gardens, Staplehurst ; 
Mr. J. T. West, Cornwall Gardens, Brentwood ; Mr. J. C. Restall, Broad 
Street, Birmingham ; and Mr. E. Wilson, Uffington, Stamford ; and 
a letter was read from Mr. D. B. Crane cf Ilighgate, making some 
suggestions as to the form the memorial should take. 
The Chairman opened the meeting by setting forth the objects for 
which they were met, and invited suggestions from those present, both 
as to the expediency of raising a fund to provide a memorial, and also as 
to the form the memorial should take. 
After some discussion it was moved by Mr. T. Bevan, seconded by 
Mr. Witty, and carried unanimously, “ That in the opinion of this meet¬ 
ing it is desirable to raise a memorial to the late Hon. Secretary of the 
National Chrysanthemum Society.” 
Considerable discussion followed, and suggestions were offered by 
Messrs. Shea, Doughty, Broughton, E. Molyneux, E. llarland, and 
others as to the form the memorial should assume. It was then 
