390 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 30,1890. 
character, but possessing no beauty. An interesting contribution came 
from the Royal Gardens, Kew, comprising flowers of the trumpet like 
Solandra grandiflora, the rosy Ipomcea Briggsi, the peculiar mauve 
coloured Cleome heptaphylla, the bluish Solanum Seaforthianum, and 
Philodendrons Simsi and dolosum. Mr. T. H. Crasp, gardener to Lord 
Wimborne, Canford Manor, exhibited an imposing stand of incurved 
and Japanese Chrysanthemum blooms, arranged on a steep high stage 
(silver medal). Mr. W. Taylor, Isleworth, had a small leaved, silvery 
edged Cyclamen, and a number of the ordinary type with large 
abundant flowers (silver medal). Messrs. Paul & Son, Cheshunt, 
showed specimens of hardy trees and shrubs, amongst which Berberis 
Thunbergi, with bright red leaves, was very conspicuous. Messrs. J. 
Laing & Sons, Forest Hill, had a small group of Chrysanthemums, 
including several new varieties, for which awards of merit have been 
granted. 
Orchid Committee. —Present: Dr. M. T. Masters in the chair ; 
and Messrs. J. O’Brien, C. Pilcher, J. Dominy, De B. Crawshay, H. M. 
Pollett, A. H. Smee, S. Courtauld, and J. Douglas. 
Conspicuous amongst the Orchids shown were the plants and varieties 
of Cattleya Warocqueana from M. Linden, Brussels, the varied forms 
and colours proving this to be a useful and beautiful Cattleya. A 
fig. 52,— MR. r. Parker. (See page 384.) 
variety of C. granulosa named Eusselliana was also shown, together with 
C. Lindeni, for which an award of merit was adjudged. Other plants 
and varieties of C. Warocqueana came from R. Young, Esq., Liverpool; 
W. J. Thomas, St. Helens ; A. C. Coombes, Dudley ; and W. C. Atkin¬ 
son, Aigburth. Mr. R. Young also sent three racemes of Yanda 
Sanderiana with from seven to twelve flowers each produced by one 
plant. The flowers w r ere dark in colour and of good size. Messrs. 
Seeger & Tropp, East Dulwich, showed flowers of Lafiia Perrini in 
several varieties. 
certificated plants. 
Berberis Thunbergi (Paul & Son).—An effective shrub, the leaves of 
which turn to a brilliant red colour before falling. 
Chrysanthemum Duchess of Westminster (R. Owen).—A Japanese 
Anemone with a dense centre of rosy bronze tubular florets, and rather 
thin guard florets, blush, or nearly white. 
Chrysanthemum Miss Anna Hartzliorn (R. Owen).—A fine white 
Japanese, already noted. 
Chrysanthemum Eugenie Gait (H. Cannell & Sons).—A Japanese 
variety, with flat florets, rich deep crimson, very effective colour. 
Chrysanthemum W. Tricher (H. Cannell & Sons).—A Japanese, 
with broad pink florets, slightly incurved at the tips. 
Chrysanthemums Miss Violet Tomlin, Miss Ilaggas, Viviand Morel, 
and Mdlle. Marie Iloste (J. Laing & Sons).—Awards of merit were 
granted for the above varieties, the first two incurved, and the others 
Japanese, which have been previously described. 
Cattleya Lindeni (M. J. Linden, Brussels).—A handsome and grace¬ 
ful Cattleya, with flowers of medium size, the lip of an intensely 
rich magenta colour margined with gold, and veined with the same in 
the throat. The petals are of a delicate rosy mauve tint veined with 
white, the sepals pale blush or nearly white. 
Tuberous Begonias and Dahlias. —Frosts have spoilt these as 
far as their beauty this season is concerned in most gardens, but the 
tubers being taken good care of will be available for next summer. 
Old tubers, or any three years and upwards in age, usually succeed 
very much better in the open beds than in pots under glass, and seeing 
that many of them can be split into several plants in the spring, 
none but tubers of inferior varieties should be thrown away. It is 
to be hoped the various seedlings have been duly marked, both the 
colour and habit of flowering being taken note of. Stored accordingly 
masses of one colour can be made next season, these quite eclipsing 
either mixed beds of Begonias or any other bedding plants near them. 
All ought to be lifted before very severe frosts intervene, a small 
portion of soil being left about the roots. Pack them closely in shallow 
boxes of fine moderately moist soil, remove decaying stalks when 
necessary, and keep cool and dry. Stored in a potting shed or outhouse 
it is advisable to cover the boxes with mats whenever a severe frost is 
anticipated. Dahlias keep well in a cool dry shed or loft, the roots 
being set rather closely together and well surrounded by fine and not 
too dry soil or sand. The more vigorous varieties, including some of 
the singles, will frequently survive an ordinarily severe winter left 
where they are. It is advisable, however, to protect the collars of the 
plant with a bank of ashes, and this should be done early. 
|p WORK^fo^the WEE' 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest Forcing House. —The trees 
having been at rest some time, the roof lights removed, the house 
thoroughly cleansed, the trees untied, pruned, dressed with an approved 
insecticide, re-arranged and tied on the trellis, the border surface 
dressed, and all prepared for a start when the time arrives, nothing 
further is required. If, however, the roof lights have not been re¬ 
moved, care must be taken not to allow the soil to become dry at the 
roots of the trees, as this is often a cause of the bloom buds falling. 
If the trees are weakly, or with a great quantity of buds, a supply of 
liquid manure whenever vrater is required will be of great benefit. 
The surface soil also should be removed down to the roots, not disturb¬ 
ing them, applying 2 to 3 inches thickness of good loam, and if the 
soil be light add a fourth of pounded clay or clay marl, with a bushel 
each of steamed bonemeal and wood ashes to every cartload of soil, 
thoroughly incorporated, making it firm, and giving a good watering. 
Borders that are rich in humus through heavy dressings of manure will 
be benefited by dressing with quicklime, a peck per rod being a suitable 
quantity, mixing with the surface soil as deep as practicable without 
disturbing the roots to any great extent, omitting the top-dressing 
before named. In treating borders, it should be practised on both the 
outside and inside. Lose no time in completing the pruning and dress¬ 
ing, cleansing the house, and admitting air to the fullest possible 
extent. The outside border being thoroughly moistened, it may be 
covered with a few inches thickness of leaves, with a little litter to 
prevent their blowing about. 
Second Early Forced House. —The trees being leafless should be 
pruned after untying, dressed, and re-arranged on the trellis. This, 
with a thorough cleansing of the house, makes an end of insects before 
they became ensconced in the cracks and crevices of the structure. In 
pruning early forced trees it is not desirable to cut away much wood, 
but where weakly and crowded it should be judiciously thinned, re¬ 
moving any useless parts that have escaped the knife at thinning after 
the fruit was gathered, and any long unripened shoots may be cut back 
to a triple bud, making sure that the central bud is a wood bud, or to 
a wood bud on well ripened wood. Shoots, however, that are well 
ripened need not be shortened under any circumstances, having usually 
a few wood buds at the base and one at the extremity, the rest being 
fruit buds. It is, however, a great mistake to retain much wood, which 
weakens the trees in flowering, and there is not space to train in the 
young growths without crowding. Treat the trees in other respects as 
regards the house, and borders as advised for the earliest house. 
Succession Houses. —The trees will be casting their leaves and should 
be pruned when they are all down, the house and trees being dressed. 
If the trees are too vigorous and do not set and stone the fruit satis¬ 
factorily they should be lifted, which is preferably done whilst the 
leaves are upon the trees, keeping the lights over the trees until the 
leaves have fallen. Where the roof lights are not moveable care must 
be taken to prevent the soil becoming dry. 
Late Houses. — Where the trees are assisted in spring and as 
required during growth in cold periods, the wood ripening well, there 
will be nothing required but to admit air freely, but where green 
