400 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 6,1890. 
safest course is to lift and treat very much as advised in the case of 
Dahlias. They keep exceptionally well on the floors of fairly light freely 
ventilated cellars, but commence growing again far too early if stored 
in close warm cellars. If packed closely together under greenhouse 
stages, as they often are, some method of warding off drip from pot 
plants above must be adopted, or otherwise either decay or premature 
growth will be the result. 
GRAPE GROWING AND GRAPE KEEPING. 
A pew words on the above subject at this season may not be 
out of place, and the method I am about to advocate may interest 
some of your readers, especially young gardeners who have lately 
taken on themselves the responsibility of a head place. I will 
commence with Vines which have been cleared of their fruit, and 
are intended to be started about the new year. These should have 
then had their shoots shortened as soon as the Grapes were cut, 
and this shortening should be continued at intervals up to the time 
the Vines receive their final pruning, by which means the eyes are 
strengthened and larger bunches secured. A good watering is also 
advisable at this period. Keep the Vines syringed daily, and 
should they be infested with insects syringe with the following 
in the evenings, washing the dead insects off in the morning :— 
Place 1 lb. black soap in a wooden, earthen, or tin vessel, add 
sufficient water to dissolve it; add 1 pint petroleum ; mix all 
together, and when in a thick liquid add sufficient water to make 
6 gallons. 
The next point is the final pruning. Now no one cares to see 
long ugly spurs ; but where Grapes are the principal object I advise 
that three, or even four, eyes be left, especially on old Vines. This 
gives choice of selection when the Vines are well started. Pruning 
completed, all cuts should be cemented in case of bleeding. This 
being done, commence removing the loose bark, not scraping the 
Vines, as is sometimes done, except in the case of insects ; then it 
is necessary. Also the canes should be washed with the solution 
before mentioned, and dressed with a mixture of cow manure, 
soap, clay, sulphur, and petroleum, the house being washed pre¬ 
viously. The rods may be tied in their proper places, except the 
Vines are young ; then it would be necessary to tie them down to 
insure an even break. Commence now, and take all exhausted soil 
or manure off the border down to the roots, for if the borders 
hive been properly treated roots will be near the surface, and if 
not the only way to bring them up is to supply a fresh soil, which 
ought to consist of fibrous loam, shells or bones, soot, and some 
lime—that is, if the soil does not contain sufficient. The 
border may be dressed with 3 inches depth of this, and it will then 
require a good dressing of cow manure, after which a thorough 
watering is essential. A little soil thrown over the manure gives 
the house a cleaner appearance. 
We will suppose the new year has arrived. Commence by 
closing the house at night for the first week, in the second week 
close earlier still, in the third week about midday, and the follow¬ 
ing week introduce some long litter and leaves, which will main- 
t lin the temperature at from 40° to 60° by night, according to the 
weather. Ventilate by day very carefully from that time onwards, 
avoiding cutting winds or sudden falls of temperature. Close 
about 1 pm, as by so doing in fine weather the temperature will 
rise to about 65°. When the fermenting material is nearly ex¬ 
hausted fire heat must be resorted to, the temperature requiring to 
be gradually raised, so that by the time the leaves are expanding 
it should not be below 58° at night and 65° by day. Admit air at 
68°, allowing it to rise 75° to 80° by sun heat, and when the Vines 
are in bloom it will stand by night at 65°, by day at 72°. Admit 
a little air as early as possible. In mild weather run the tempe- 
perature up to 85° or higher. Tap the bunches several times 
throughout the day, and give a good watering previous to flowering. 
Thin as soon as possible, and when the berries are stoning keep 
the temperature steady and the atmosphere drier, which will 
necessitate less fire heat. I never employ front ventilation until 
after the fruit is ripe. Still, I do not protest against others doing 
so; but think the method I adopt is the best. When the berries 
are colouring give another supply of water, also using Thomson’s 
Vine or other manure, adding a good quantity of soot, which 
not only assists the colouring, but is also of great service to the 
foliage. Sometimes shanking is caused by too much water. I find 
that three thorough waterings, except surface waterings, are suffi¬ 
cient from the time the Vines are started until the Grapes are 
ripe ; but supposing the borders were loose or shallow the above 
waterings would not suffice. Before entering on Grape keeping I 
must state that a Muscat of Alexandria house when in bloom 
should have a night temperature of 68° to 70°, day 70° to 75°, 
running up if possible by sun heat to 90°. Provided the canes are 
healthy the bunches will set as free as any other variety. 
When the Grapes are finished, fire heat can be dispensed with in 
the house started at the beginning of the year ; but late houses 
will require some at times to prevent the berries damping, and the 
temperature must be kept as steady as possible. Many seasons 
Grapes can be kept better in a fruit room than on the Vines. A 
proper fruit room is so situated that the sun cannot strike on it 
after it is required for fruit, pipes being placed in it to supply heat 
if required and keep it airy ; 45° to 50° is a good temperature to 
maintain. Ventilators should be opened at intervals, having a 
suitable heat at the same time in the pipes to avoid damp. I have 
known the late Mr. Tillyard, late gardener to the Earl of Yar¬ 
borough, under whom I served as foreman, keep Black Hamburghs 
fresh in the fruit room from the month of October till March. 
Bottles filled with water and a little charcoal placed therein should 
be arranged ready. Cut the bunches with sufficient length of 
shoot to reach well into the water. A strict watch must be kept 
for berries damping, for one berry will soon ruin a whole 
bunch. 
There are many points in Grape growing I have not touched 
upon ; but what I have written I practise, and if any unsuccessful 
Grape grower will carefully follow what I have written he will 
find the results satisfactory. —S. Scott, Belfast. 
Events of the Week.— The Chrysanthemum shows are the 
special cause of horticultural activity just now, the present and 
succeeding week being remarkably busy ones for all concerned with 
exhibitions. To-day (Thursday) the Portsmouth Show continues, closing 
on Friday. There are also shows at Putney, Chiswick, Pembroke, 
Taunton, Stroud, Isle of Sheppey, Ascot, and Tottenham. On Friday, 
November 7th, the annual Show will be held at the Crystal Palace, 
Sydenham, which is expected to be of unusual interest, and there 
will also be a show at Exeter on the same day. On Monday, 
November 10th, the St. Neots’ Society (Hunts), have their annual 
exhibition, one of the few held on that day. Tuesday, November 11th, 
is the opening day of the National Society’s Show at the Pioyal 
Aquarium, Westminster, particulars of which are given in another 
paragraph. The Koyal Horticultural Society’s Fruit, Floral, and 
Orchid Committees meet on the same day at the Drill Hall, James 
Street, at twelve noon. The Kingston Show will also open on 
Tuesday, as well as Brighton, Lewes, Eastbourne, and Truro, all of 
which are two-day shows. Wednesday, November 12th, is another 
busy day, for besides those continued from Tuesday, shows will be 
held at Bournemouth, Croydon, Northampton, Tunbridge Wells, 
Birmingham, and Hampstead. 
-TheWeathee around London has been variable. Two or three 
days were extremely mild with continuous rains, but brighter weather 
has followed, though not cold for the time of year. The leaves are 
hanging late on many trees, but the first severe frost brought down all 
on the Mulberries, the Catalpas, and other tender trees. 
- Chrysanthemum Shows. — We shall be obliged if secre¬ 
taries or friends who favour U3 with reports of shows at which our 
representatives are unable to attend, will give the names of varieties 
in first prize stands in the chief open classes. We much prefer even 
very short accounts of shows written by officials or gardeners to lengthy 
newspaper reports, which can seldom be used. The co-operation that 
may be accorded in this matter will be much appreciated by the 
Editor. 
- Gardeners’ Orphan Fund.—A t a meeting of the Committee, 
held on Friday night last, it was decided to call a special general meet¬ 
ing of subscribers with the object of making a slight alteration in the 
rules, so that the financial year shall terminate at the end of December 
instead of at the end of June, for the convenience of subscribers and in 
the interests of the Fund. The meeting is to be held at the Cannon 
Street Hotel, London, at six o’clock p.m. on December 9th. It was also 
decided to close the Deal Memorial Fund on the 22nd inst. The 
response has been very good, but the Committee are anxious to raise a 
few more pounds for completing the sum they wish to raise for worthily 
