480 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 27, 1890. 
started they will afford a closer succession, and there is nothing so fatal 
to a first crop as bringing the trees on too rapidly. Water in a tepid 
•state should be applied to the roots at frequent intervals until the soil 
is thoroughly moistened, introducing thoroughly sweetened leaves and 
stable litter in ridge form into the house to produce a moist genial con¬ 
dition of the atmosphere, and to induce gentle steady excitement, as 
well as to economise fire heat. Commence with a temperature of 50° at 
night, 55° by day, and 65° from sun heat, syringing the trees and every 
available surface with water slightly in advance of the temperature of 
the house in the morning and early afternoon unless the weather be dull 
and cold, when the morning syringing only should be practised. Admit 
air moderately whenever the weather is mild, closing the house with sun 
heat at 65°, or if it exceed that with full ventilation close the ventilators 
•when the sun heat begins to decline. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Hydrangeas .—Varieties of H. hortensis that were rooted early, and 
were thoroughly matured before the approach of frost, have lost their 
foliage. These may be placed into 41-inch pots as opportunity offers, 
and stood in a cool house ready for starting into growth. One crock 
at the base of each pot will be ample, and the compost may consist of 
loam, one-seventh of manure, sand, and a little leaf mould. The soil in 
which Cucumbers and Melons have been grown with the addition of 
leaf mould and sand will grow them well. Those rooted later and 
having plump buds with fresh foliage attached should be kept until the 
foliage ripens off naturally where the temperature will not fall below 
45°. Any of the plants that have not their buds thoroughly developed 
should be placed on a shelf close to the glass where the temperature can 
be kept 5° higher. 
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora .—Those who have well developed 
plants may lift and place them into 5 and 6-inch pots, according to 
their size. Prune these close back, and place them in cold frames. 
Plants that have been in pots throughout the year may also be pruned 
back and top-dressed with rich material or placed into slightly larger 
pots. 
Spircea jagionica .—Lift and repot the number of plants required for 
forcing. After potting plunge the pots of those not to be started forth¬ 
with in ashes. They will be better outside, and force more readily 
than if placed in frames. Any clumps that have not bold flowering 
crowns should be placed aside and cut into two or three according to 
their size and replanted again for another season. Plants that flowered 
well outside last year will be in capital condition for dividing. The 
secret of success in growing Spiraeas that will flower as freely as 
imported plants is to plant only those that have small or moderate 
crowns—that is, crowns that will not flower ; in one season they will 
develope into strong flowering crowns. Plants that flower profusely 
outside are useless for forcing, because a number of crowns spring from 
the base and they have not sufficient time to develope the same season. 
■Select a sunny position. The sooner next season’s stock are planted the 
better. If clumps for 5-inch pots only are grown they should be planted 
1 foot apart each way, if larger allow 6 inches more between the rows. 
Dielytra spectabilis .—For years we have not bought these, but 
relied on home-grown plants. Lift established plants, and divide them 
according to the size pots in which they are to be forced. Pieces with 
small weak crowns should be planted for next year’s supply of plants. 
Divide these into two batches, and plant the smallest closer together so 
that they can be grown for two years before forcing them. Once a 
stock is obtained the best plan is to lay in those that have been forced 
for division in autumn for the following season’s supply of plants. One 
good plant will often make two, or suitable ones for larger pots if 
planted without being divided. In this case they should be planted, 
after being hardened, where they are to stand the two seasons. Place 
those that are potted into cold frames for a short time, and then intro¬ 
duce them into Peach houses or vineries that are just started. Few 
plants are so easily forced as Dielytras. They naturally start early 
into growth, and being of a light graceful habit of growth are telling 
in any arrangement. The white form of this old favourite is well worth 
growing. 
French Pelargoniums .—These are frequently ruined by too close or 
■confined an atmosphere. Where houses are not specially devoted to them, 
which is seldom the case in private gardening establishments, the 
•general stock will be at home on the shelves of vineries and Peach 
houses, close to the glass and fully exposed to light. All that they need 
is protection from frost; as long as the temperature does not fall below 
35° they will be safe. The liberal ventilation at this season that these 
structures receive suits them admirably. Growth is slow, but it is strong 
and sturdy. Old plants subjected to this treatment that were cut back 
in August will be ready for pinching in February and their final shift. 
Cuttings rooted from these plants will now be growing freely and ready 
for 5-inch pots; they should have the same treatment. Use for a 
compost fibry loam, one-seventh of manure and sand ; pot firmly. 
Pinch any shoots that need it on these young plants. Earlier plants 
will be rooting freely in 5-inch pots. A little artificial manure may be 
applied to the surface of these every three weeks. Do not pinch the 
shoots again if the plants are required to flower early. Give them the 
same liberal ventilation, and keep the temperature for these from falling 
below 40°. In whatever stage of growth the plants are, be careful not 
to give them too much water ; on the other hand, do not allow them to 
become dust dry. The syringe is not needed; these plants are better 
without it. Aphides will not give much trouble if this treatment is 
followed. 
— 
/,y 
'■fcS 
By 
HE BEE-KEEPER] 
RESULTS OF HIVES. 
I promised to give “A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper ” the result of 
my hives. But thinking it may interest others have forwarded it 
to you. I have three hives, two being the Lanarkshire square hive, 
the other on the standard principle, containing eleven bars, each 
12^ by 8^ inside measurement. One of the Lanarkshire hives 
were made up last autumn by driving two skeps, uniting the bees, 
and giving them a pure Carniolian queen I obtained from Neigh¬ 
bour & Sons, and fed up with 20 lbs. of sugar, besides four bars 
I took from the other hive of the same kind. They swarmed 
June 16th, also a cast on July 1st, that I threw back when hived. 
It was my intention to have destroyed all queen cells except two 
a few days after the first swarm ; but my time being taken up 
with haymaking bees had to take their chance. At the end of the 
season they had from 10 lbs. to 15 lbs. of stores. I feed with 
20 lbs. of sugar, and expect better results next year, as they have 
a young queen at their head. They had two boxes, but did not 
work much in the lowest one ; therefore I did not give them the 
third till the end of August, when feeding for winter. 
The other two hives were equal as regards stores in the autumn 
of 1889 ; but the spring of this year the Lanarkshire hive was 
very short of stores, only about 5 lbs. I was surprised at the time, 
but now see where I was wrong. I had not used any outside 
covering, and, as explained in this Journal (No. 539, October 23rd), 
being single-cased hives, the temperature was always varying with 
the temperature outside, therefore consuming more food. I fed 
with 6 lbs. of sugar, and left them to themselves. At the end of 
the season I took 33 lbs. in sections, and 18 lbs. after being run 
from the lowest box containing the oldest combs. There was still 
left over 20 lbs. in the two other boxes. I gave them the third 
box with fresh combs, and feed with 20 lbs. of sugar for winter. 
The other (standard) hive was well up for stores, therefore had 
no feeding. I took 30 lbs. in sections and 5 lbs. of run honey ; 
there remained in hive between 8 lbs. and 10 lbs. These I also 
feed with 20 lbs. of sugar, and likewise prepared for winter. 
I have three neighbours, each about a quarter of a mile from 
here, that are bee- keepers in a small way like myself, they having 
the standard hive. One said he has very little honey indeed. 
Another took 20 lbs. in sections from two hives. The third person 
has just his hives. One in the above hive has been neglected in this 
way. The young lady in 1889 opened the hive to take off some 
sections ; on drawing one the bees appeared, the lady in her fright 
pulled down the lid and departed. At the end of the season of 
1889 the hive was visited by an outdoor servant, he found the bees 
very strong, working as much from under the lid as at the entrance 
of the hive. It happened when the lid was pulled down it rested 
on some of the coverings used in wrapping up the sections. This 
man got stung so much that he would have no more to do with 
them, so the bees were left to their own course till October, 1890, 
when they were soli, the bees destroyed. On opening the hive, 
comb was built from roof to floor, the quantity of honey being 
38 lbs. I was surprised on hearing the quantity of honey this hive 
had, as I thought it would have been much more than 38 lbs., con¬ 
sidering it was honey from two seasons.—R. A. O., Sevenoales. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Maggots in Soil (//. J. IF.).—What you send are maggots, not 
caterpillars, and in their present stage cannot be named. It is not in 
the least unlikely they have been conveyed in the manure ; but as you 
say lime kills them they will do no harm, and the application will 
otherwise improve the soil, and be of benefit to the plants. 
Potash for Cleansing ( Somerset ).—We do not find the article to 
which you refer ; possibly you have r ot given a correct reference. 
