526 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 11, 1890. 
Fruit Bushes and Birds. —Already bullfinches have commenced 
destroying fruit buds, those on Red Currants being the first to suffer. 
Either the birds must be destroyed or the trees protected in some way, or 
the chances are a great failure with small fruits may happen next 
season. Permanent wire net-covered structures are the most economical. 
in the long run, these protecting first the buds and then the ripe fruit 
from birds. Now is a good time to set about covering in a fruit quarter, 
and if the uprights are made of oak and the rafters of pitch-pine, all 
being duly coated with black varnish, this will remain sound for many 
years. Only f-inch mesh galvanised wire netting should be used, small 
birds finding their way through a coarser mesh, and some provision 
should also be made for opening che ends when it is desirable to let in 
those birds that prey on caterpillars. Black thread somewhat thickly 
sprung among the branches lias a deterrent effect on birds ; so also 
does a coating of limewash, this being mixed rather thin, and freely 
svringed over the main branches after the pruning has been completed. 
If one application is not enough it should be repeated till the bushes 
*ire thoroughly whitened, more also being syringed over them after much 
wet weather. In the case of Gooseberry bushes the good old plan of 
bringing all the branches well up together in the form of a pyramid, and 
keeping them there with the aid of tar-twine, never fails. It is a some¬ 
what rough job, but two pairs of willing hands wearing leather gloves 
can do it easily enough. Tbe birds cannot penetrate this dense mass of 
prickly branches, and these should not be opened out and pruned tid 
the buds are out of danger. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Teaches and Nectarines. —Earliest Forced House .—Up to the 
buds swelling and advancing for flowering the atmosphere may be kept 
rather close and moist, but not by any means warm. After the buds 
show colour syringing shoul 1 be discontinued, the trees being given plenty 
of time to develope a strong flower, perfect in all its parts, therefore the 
flowers must be brought forward gently and steadily. Admit a little 
air constantly, about an inch by the top ventilators, and at and above 
50° it should be increased correspondingly with the temperature, but 
not allowing the heat to fall below 50° in the daytime, maintaining 
that by artificial means, allowing an advance to G5° with sun heat and 
full ventilation, closing for the day at 55°. Though syringing the trees 
is not advisable after the anthers show, a moderate amount of air mois¬ 
ture is essential to health. This can readily be secured by damping 
available surfaces, as borders and paths, in the morning and early 
afternoon. Avoid a moist, close, stagnant atmosphere with a high 
temperature at night. In frosty weather 40° to 45°, and 50° in mild 
weather, is ample. Let there be no mistake in respect of moisture in 
the inside borders. If necessary supply tepid water or liquid manure, 
making sure that the soil is thoroughly moistened through to the 
drainage. Surface waterings are little better than waste of time. 
Weakly blossoms are the result of imperfect nourishment, very often 
through the trees being kept in a dripping atmosphere whilst they 
have not sufficient moisture at the roots. Superabundant blossoms are 
a source of weakness, therefore remove those under or on the back of 
the trellis where they are too redundant, drawing the hand contrary 
way of the growth. This materially assists the swelling and strengthens 
the remaining flowers. 
Second Early Forced House .—In many, in fact most cases, this will 
be the first. It is that from which fruit is to be gathered in late May 
or early June, where such varieties as Hale’s Early, Early York, Early 
Alfred, &c., are grown ; but where Alexander, Waterloo, and Early 
Beatrice are cultivated the fruit will ripen a fortnight to three weeks 
in advance of the first named. These matters must have consideration in 
starting the trees. Although fire heat is not to be applied until the 
new year the house must be closed at once, just excluding frost, and 
ventilating abundantly at 50°. Sprinkle the trees morning and after¬ 
noon, allowing time for them to become fairly dry before night. Trees 
are greatly weakened by keeping them constantly dripping with 
moisture, especially at night. Soak inside borders with tepid water or 
liquid manure, and protect those outside with dry leaves or bracken 
and a little long litter, allowing a slope to the front, so as to throw 
off cold rains and snow. Some tarpaulin or spare lights are an 
advantage, but avoid using fermenting materials, as they cause 
wood growth too early in the tree for satisfactory progress in the 
fruit. 
Succession Homes .—Let no opportunity pass of attending to pruning, 
cleansing the house and trees. It not only improves appearances, but is 
better for the trees, through the longer and more complete rest assured. 
Ventilate to the fullest possible extent in all but very severe weather. 
It is better, however, to remove the roof lights, exposing the trees to the 
elements for the winter, but trees that have not well ripened wood must 
not be exposed, for the unripe growths retain sap and are liable to have 
those vessels ruptured in severe weather. This is the cause of unfruit¬ 
fulness in many trees. Bloom buds, however, fall from an opposite cause 
—over-excitement, premature and over-development, with a deficiency of 
nutrition or lack of water at the roots. Lite houses, also unheated, are 
best unroofed in winter ; the trees seem to like our mists, drizzling rains, 
and the continued rains moisten the soil down to the drainage, the soil 
being enriched. Exposure ensures complete rest, the flowers attain to 
finer development than attends trees that are kept constantly evaporat¬ 
ing from the young wood through the time they are at rest by fixed 
roofs. It also retards the flowering, which is of great importance in the 
ease of late houses, and unheated or wall cases. 
Pines. —Ripe fruit is generally in greatest demand in May and June, 
and the plants for that purpose not now showing fruit will need to have 
the tendency to growth checked, which causes the plants to concen¬ 
trate the strength on reproduction. Select, therefore, from the plants 
started last March, and having made a good sturdy growth, such as 
show the best indications of starting into fruit growth when subjected 
to a higher temperature both at the roots and in the atmosphere. Those 
only that have completed a sturdy growth, formed a stout base, and are 
now at rest, are any use for this purpose. If the plants can be accom¬ 
modated in a house by themselves it will be an advantage, but failing 
such they should be placed in a light position in the fruiting house. 
Such as are not likely to throw fruit at once should be kept cool and 
rather dry for a month or six weeks, after which they will generally 
throw up fruit when subjected to a brisk temperature at the roots and 
atmosphere. It is not desirable to start more plants now than can be 
helped, as the fruit will come up more readily a month hence, and be 
much stronger. Necessity often causes recourse to expedients in small 
places that are not needed in larger. Cultivators with few plants have 
difficulty in maintaining an unbroken supply of fruit ; their tens or 
twenties are not as good for successional purposes as the hundreds of 
the larger grower. But judgment and the acquirement of considerably 
more skill often enable the grower with limited means to maintain a 
better successional supply of ripe Pine Apples throughout the year. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
French and Fancy Pelargoniums .—Young plants in 2\ and 3-inch 
pots that are well rooted should be placed into 5-inch pots. If the 
watering is carefully attended to one crock at the base will be ample. 
Use for a compost good fibry loam, one-seventh of decayed manure and 
sand. If the manure has not been properly prepared by being stacked 
under cover for some time dispense with it and use artificial manure 
instead. Do not use leaf mould, which encourages soft growth, and pot 
firmly to insure sturdy growth. Pinch the points out of the shoots, and 
place the plants where they can have abundance of air. 
Zonal Varieties .—These rooted in 3-inch pots at the end of August 
or early the following month will be ready for 5-inch pots. If they 
have been pinched the shoots may be allowed to extend until they 
flower. For the present keep them on a shelf close to the glass where 
the temperature does not fall below 45°. Admit air freely on all 
favourable occasions. Bushy plants of the Vesuvius type that have 
flowered, if kept cool and dry, will flower freely again if introduced into 
a temperature of 55° early in January. Keep those that have grown 
tall rather dry, so that they can be cut back soon a f ter the new year, 
and cuttings may be inserted where stock is needed. 
Petunias.—Young bushy plants in small pots maybe placed into 
4-inch pots. For these plants add one-third of leaf mould to the com¬ 
post advised for Pelargoniums. Pinch the points of any shoots that 
need it, and place the plants close to the glass where the temperature 
does not fall below 40°. 
Mignonette .—Mignonette for spring flowering must have abundance 
of air. It has a tendency to grow quickly and weakly at this season of 
the year if the houses or frames are kept close. This must be avoided, 
or puny spikes of bloom in spring will result. Standards or pyramids 
that have flowered should be pinched out and placed in some airy 
position where they are free from frost. Under these conditions they 
will break again strongly into growth and flower profusely a few months 
hence. Do not practise feeding, it does more harm than good at this 
season of the year. When the days lengthen and growth is more rapid 
it will be beneficial. Soot water acts quickly and imparts a fine dark 
hue to the foliage. Artificial manure applied to the surface of the soil 
encourages the roots to the surface and keeps them active, which is the 
secret of growing good Mignonette. 
Lilium eximium .—Bulbs of this Lilium imported from Japan are 
generally to hand this month. This is a useful Lilium for pot culture, 
and with us it has given greater satisfaction than the popular L. Harrisi 
for late flowering. The bulbs potted last year averaged seven flowers 
each, and did not exceed 20 inches in height. The bulbs should be 
placed singly into 5-inch pots in a compost of loam, leaf mould, one- 
seventh of manure, and sand. The bulbs should be just covered and 
the pots stood in a cool vinery or Peach house. Cover the pots 1 inch 
deep with cocoa-nut fibre refuse or other similar material, and leave 
until their growths are just visible. If the suil is in a proper state of 
moisture, and the plunging material is kept moist, no water will be 
needed until they are ready for removal. When taken from the ashes 
place them in a cool airy structure close to the glass on a base of 
ashes or other moisture-holding materia'. When they commence grow¬ 
ing watch for aphides, and directly they appear fumigate with tobacco. 
When 8 or 9 inches high the plants will have abundance of roots, and 
artificial manure may be applied once a fortnight to the surface of the 
soil. 
Calceolarias .—Watch for slugs, as they quickly injure these plants. 
The earliest should be placed into 5 inch pots. Use for a compost fibry 
loam, leaf mould, and old Mushroom bed refuse and sand. Be careful 
to place the plants on a moi9t base where they can enjoy abundance of 
air. If placed on dry shelves over hot-water pipes that have to be 
heated to keep out frost the plants will do no goo 1. It is too dry for 
them, and they soon become a prey to aphides. Repot plants as they 
need more root room, and place those still in boxes into 3-inch pots. 
Primulas .—Late seedlings that are now in 2^-inch pots may be 
placed into 4-inch pots, and kept perfectly cool. Tney will grow strong, 
and towards the end of April flower profusely. These plants are also 
good for seed bearing, and will often produce double the quantity of 
seed that plants raised earlier in the year will afford. 
I Lihonias.—lt given greenhouse treatment only these plants in- 
