544 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 18,189f. 
sets off the table) then let it be specified in the schedule whether that 
background is to be dressed or not. As the schedule was worded one 
would conclude everything was to be exhibited on the table in a space 
of 36 square feet. I do not for one moment wish to question the merit 
of this exhibitor’s display, but were not others in this class placed at a 
disadvantage? and would they not have been enabled to have competed 
more fairly if conceded a similar space ?— George Newman, F.N.C.S. 
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 
Scientific Committee, December 9th.—Present: Dr. Masters, in 
the chair ; Mr. McLachlan, Mr. Michael, Rev. C. Wolley Dod, Professor 
Church, Dr. Scott, Dr. Oliver, and Mr. Blandford, Hon. Secretary. 
Diseased Grapes. —Grapes received from Mr. Barron were exhibited, 
attacked with fungoid disease. Dr. Masters pointed out that the 
disease has been described by Mr. Worthington Smith, and called atten¬ 
tion to its resemblance to and possible connection with “scald,” a 
much commoner complaint in which no fungoid growth has been 
described. 
Soil for Alpine Plants. —The Rev. C. Wolley Dod showed samples of 
burnt clay, which he had found the best soil for Alpine plants. It pre¬ 
vented the growth of Hepatic®, and was soft and friable, and far 
superior to broken brick. The cost of burning was about a shilling a 
ton. Professor Church undertook to determine the chemical composition 
f the earth used. 
Effects of Frost. —Dr. Masters showed leaves of Aucuba blackened 
and killed by exposure to a temperature of — 2° Fahr, on the night of 
November 28th at Croydon. This exceptional temperature was inde¬ 
pendently confirmed. The Aucuba is among the hardiest evergreens. 
The variegated leaves appear to suffer most from frost. 
Abnormal Development of Bulbs. —Dr. Masters showed bulbs, pro¬ 
bably of Freesia, which had sent up a premature development of the 
shoots in an upward direction, bearing secondary bulbs on its sides. It 
appeared to be a converse phenomenon to what occurs in the case of 
bulbs, which send down “ droppers,” and may possibly be due to too 
deep planting. 
Banksian Rose in Fruit. —Dr. Masters also showed a Banksian Rose 
which had been cross-fertilised by another species. The carpels were 
developed, but not the hypanthus (the “ hip ”), so that the same con¬ 
dition was found as in the carpels of Potentilla or Geum, This species 
has not been previously known to fruit in this country. 
Hybrid Orchids. —Dr. Masters showed two hybrids between Cypri- 
pedium Chantini and C. , Spicerianum, whose parents were of inverse 
sex. 
Study of Plant Pathology .—Dr. Masters read a letter he had received 
from Dr. Sorauer of Vienna, inviting him to join the Internationale 
Phyto-Pathologische Commission for the study of plant diseases. This 
Commission has arisen out of the recent Exhibition of Forestry in Vienna. 
He thought that the invitation might fitly be extended to other investi¬ 
gators of such matters. After some discussion, Mr. Michael moved, 
“ That it be suggested to Dr. Sorauer that the Internationale Phyto- 
Pathologische Commission place itself in communication with the 
Chairman of the Scientific Committee of the Royal Horticultural 
Society with a view to an arrangement for the exchange of information 
and assistance between the two Societies.” 
This was seconded by Professor Church and carried. 
Fog Investigation.— Dr. Oliver proposed to present an interim report 
at Easter. This was agreed to. 
VEGETABLES FROM NOVEMBER TO MAY. 
[Prize essay read by Mr. Atkins, foreman in The Gardens, at Kelton, Aigburth, before 
the members of the Liverpool Horticultural Association.] 
To secure a constant supply of vegetables from one acre of 
garden during the winter and spring months, from November to 
May, requires considerable forethought and careful management. 
The varieties and quantity that can be grown of course depend on 
the facilities at command. For instance, where means are afforded 
for the production of Asparagus, French Beans, Mushrooms, and 
Seakale, these may be had in almost constant use during the time 
named, and will increase both the variety and quantity ; but a good 
general supply may be obtained by growing a quantity of Brassica, 
Celery, and root vegetables. 
I consider April and May the worst months for vegetables, as 
the winter stock is nearly exhausted, and the summer stock is 
hardly ready for use. For these months I should recommend a 
good supply of late Seakale, Broccoli, Spinach, and spring Cab¬ 
bages. I have endeavoured to arrange in alphabetical order the 
vegetables, natural and forced, including common salads in general 
use during winter and spring. Cauliflowers I have not mentioned, 
as they can only be depended upon during the early part of Novem¬ 
ber, being insufficiently hardy to stand very severe weather, and 
in our northern latitude the autumn sown plants are rarely ready 
for use before June. 
With regard to tbe vegetables which are most profitable for a 
garden of one statute acre, I should recommend that nearly half 
an acre be planted with Potatoes, the remaining ground to be filled 
with Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Carrots, Celery, Parsnips, 
Onions, and Salsafy. 
Artichokes (Jerusalem). — A most useful vegetable for 
winter use. To insure a good crop trench a piece of ground in 
autumn, and give a dressing of manure. In March plant good 
tubers in rows 22 inches apart and 18 inches between the tubers. 
They will be ready for use in November, and may be taken up as 
required. All the remaining tubers may be lifted early in March ; 
those that are wanted for stock replanted, and the others stored in a 
cool shed. 
Asparagus. —To obtain this vegetable from November onwards 
forcing must be resorted to. Make up a good hotbed, and cover it 
with about 4 inches of soil ; place the crowns close together, and 
cover them with 2 inches of fine soil. A little air should be given 
at all times, except the outside temperature is below freezing point. 
A steady temperature of G0° will be sufficient. A succession of 
hotbeds will be necessary to keep up a regular supply until the 
outside beds are ready for use. 
Beet. —To secure good roots of this important and largely 
used winter salad choose an open situation and a light sandy soil. 
In autumn trench the ground to a depth of 2 feet ; dig it in spring, 
and break the soil up rather fine. Sow the seed in April or May 
in drills 2 inches deep and 9 inches apart. The seeds grow more 
quicky i£ steeped in water previous to sowing, afterwards allowing 
them to become dry enough to separate from each other. When 
the plants are large enough thin them to 6 inches apart, and in dull 
weather fill any blanks that may occur. Lift the roots before hard 
frosts come, cut off the leaves to within an inch of the crown, 
place the roots in a cool shed, and cover them with sand or ashes. 
Beans (French). —French Beans for bearing during the winter 
and spring months require to be grown in a house specially adapted 
for forcing purposes. A temperature of 60° to 70°, with plenty of 
moisture and light, is essential to successful results. Successional 
sowing should be made from the beginning of September until 
March, using a compost of good loam with a little well rotted 
manure. The most useful sized pots are 8-inch ; six beans should 
be sown in each pot and covered with about 2 inches of soil. The 
first sowing may be placed in a cool house until started and brought 
into heat when required, but the later sowings should be placed 
directly in the forcing house. Give air on every favourable 
opportunity, and keep the plants free from insects. Liquid manure 
will be found very beneficial when the pots are full of roots and 
the plants are bearing freely. 
Broccoli. —This vegetable follows the autumn Cauliflower, 
and is invaluable for winter and spring use. It succeeds best in 
a deep, rich, loamy soil. Prepare the ground in autumn by trench¬ 
ing and manuring. Sow on a warm border from March till 
May, and prick off the seedlings when they are large enough. 
Choose dull showery weather for the permanent planting, which 
should be done in June or July. Allow a distance of 2 to 
3 feet between the rows, and an equal distance between the 
plants. The heads of the plants must be bent northwards before 
frost sets in, and in so doing care must be taken to disturb the 
roots as little as possible. 
Brussels Sprouts. —This is one of the most productive and 
delicious of our winter vegetables. To secure it in good form it 
should be grown in deep, rich soil, which must be trenched 2 feet 
deep and heavily manured in winter. In February and March 
sow the seed in boxes or pans of light soil and place them in a cool 
house. When the plants are large enough prick them into cold 
frames or prepared beds on a warm border. In May or June 
transplant in rows 2 to 3 feet apart, leaving a space of 18 to 24 
inches between the plants. Plant with good balls of roots and 
give a good watering that they may receive as little check as pos¬ 
sible. Keep them clear from weeds and earth up as soon as large 
enough. 
Cabbages. —To ensure a supply of good Cabbages for the 
winter and spring months it is necessary that they be planted on 
good, well manured ground. Select a somewhat sheltered situation 
for the winter and earliest spring crop, which should not be 
planted too soon in autumn, as the plants are more liable to run to 
seed. For a spring supply sow from the end of July to the middle 
of August in beds of light soil, afterwards covering the beds with 
netting to protect the seeds from the ravages of birds. Trans¬ 
plant when large enongh in lines 18 inches to 2 feet apart, and the 
same between the plants. To provide a supply during the winter 
sow Colewort Cabbages from the middle of June to the end of 
July, and transplant when large to 1 foot apart. 
Carrots. —Carrots require to be grown in soil of a good 
depth and of a light sandy nature. Ground that has been manured 
