December 18, 1S90. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
549 
all white-fleshed winter Turnips, does not require this treatment, as the 
bulbs naturally bury themselves so deep in the soil that they are never 
injured by frost. 
Forcing Asparagus.— We place our first roots in on November 
15th, and cut the first dish on November 2Dth. We find the roots 
force very freely and yield heavily. It is a much valued vegetable 
at all times, more especially at midwinter, and the dates given show 
that it can be produced in a fortnight or thereabouts ; that in question 
was forced in a bed of a Cucumber pit with a bottom heat of 80° and a 
top temperature of 65° to 70°. All who can command these tempera¬ 
tures will readily secure Asparagus ; strong fully matured crowns only 
should be forced. A few leaves may be placed under them with the roots 
packed close together, and a layer of soil to the depth of 3 inches on 
the top. We have forced the roots on ordinary hotbeds, but not so 
quickly or successfully as in the pits, particularly at midwinter. The 
roots are of no further use after being forced and should be thrown 
away. Two dozen good roots will give several dishes, and for 
maintaining a constant supply the requisite number of roots should 
be put in every fortnight. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Selaginella Krausseana. —Where these are appreciated for the 
margins of groups and other decorative purposes some 3 to 5-inch pots 
may now be made up. The pots should be filled a little above the rim 
with any light compost in which leaf soil forms nearly one half, small 
pieces pricked evenly over the surface. The smaller the pieces and the 
closer they are dibbled in the better they succeed, and the sooner they 
cover the surface. If the moss is taken from a cool house it will com¬ 
mence growing freely in a vinery or Peach house that is kept about 50°. 
The moist atmosphere of the former will suit the best. Other small 
growing varieties may be treated the same. 
Panioum variegatnm. —Cuttings of these may be inserted thickly 
together in 3-inch pots and placed in handlights in a warm house. 
They will soon be rooted and ready for decorative purposes early in the 
season. Few plants form a neater or more effective margin to a house 
of Palms or other foliage plants than these ; a few plants dotted here 
and there are not particularly pleasing, but a good row adds materially 
to the appearance of the structure. 
Gardenias. —Young plants that were rooted in thumb pots some 
time ago should be placed at once into 3-inch pots. They will continue 
to grow slowly, and will be ready for 5-inch pots early in the season. 
Keep the young plants in a temperature of 60° to 65°. Pinch the points 
out of the shoots to induce them to branch. 
Veronica Andersoni variegata. —For large conservatories where 
flowering plants do not do well this will be found a useful plant during 
the winter months. Soft growing shoots will root freely now if inserted 
in sandy soil and placed in handlights in a heated structure. In one 
season they will grow into nice bushy plants if potted on, as they need 
root room and their shoots are pinched occasionally. They are also very 
effective grown as small standards with legs about 18 inches high. 
They grow into decorative plants quicker than Euonymus latifolia 
variegata, and are nearly as effective amongst other plants. 
Libonias. —Where good plants of these are appreciated 1 foot high 
and as much through them, cuttings should be rooted early. If one or 
two plants are cut over now and placed into heat they will soon produce 
good cuttings, which should be inserted and rooted at once. If potted 
on as they need root room, and the shoots pinched occasionally until the 
plants are placed into 5 and 6-inch pots, they will be fine bushes by 
autumn, and if well ripened they will flower profusely. 
Solanums. —To do these well cuttings should be rooted eaily. To 
obtain these, introduce a plant of two that has not berried well into 
heat to induce growth. Soft-growing ends should be taken off and 
inserted into sandy soil and potted singly as soon as they are rooted. 
The shoots should be pinched from time to time, and the plants repotted 
until they are placed into 5 or 6-inch. Grow them inside in an 
intermediate temperature until May, then gradually harden and place 
them in frames. 
Cyperus distans. —Plants raised from seed sown some time ago and 
pricked ofE into boxes may be placed into 3-inch pots. Grow them on 
in a temperature of 50°, if kept too warm they draw up weakly. Plants 
that have flowered may, if wanted, be cut over and placed in heat, they 
will soon throw up again from the base and be useful for groups. They 
never make such good plants as those raised from seed. Seed may be 
sown on the surface of a pan of fine soil and placed in heat. If well 
watered and covered with a square of glass germination will soon take 
place. If the seeds are covered with soil they are a long time before i 
they germinate, and often fail to do so if buried too deep, unless they 
are brought again to the surface. 
Grevillea rolusta. —Plants that have become damaged may be cut 
close back to the surface of the soil. If placed in a temperature of 50° 
they will soon break again into growth, and make good plants long 
before those raised from seed. They can be grown on with two or three 
shoots if preferred to those with a single stem. The latter are best for 
most purposes, and if the roots are carefully reduced after they 
have broken into growth and the plants repotted, they will grow 
rapidly after they are once started. Plants of Aralia Sieboldi that have 
become bare may be subjected to the same treatment, while the head 
may be taken off where the wood is soft, and re-rooted under a bellglass 
in heat. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Tiie 'Weather. 
Few if any dead bees lie about, unlike 1889, after the first 
spell of frost, when at some hives a few were carried out. 
Being all well covered and provided with stores there will be no 
apprehension that any will either succumb to the cold or from 
want, although the weather may become severe. Snow being the 
greatest enemy when the temperature rises above freezing, atten¬ 
tion must be paid to closing the entrances and lowering the venti¬ 
lators. So long as the temperature keeps under 30° they will be 
left undisturbed. 
Section Crates. 
For some years I have been using a contrivance for sections 
that pleases me so well that may now be given to the public. It 
possesses all the advantages claimed for the working of sections. 
They can be removed en masse from the case when full, and as 
they can be pressed firmly and closely together by blocks propo- 
lising is reduced to the minimum, and as these blocks are easily 
slackened the removal of the sections become easy. By placing 
the crate containing them upon a loose board a little less in size 
than the inside crate upon a box of the same dimensions the crate is 
pushed downward telescope fashion, and sections are left upon the 
top ready to be examined, and removed to a place of safety. The 
device is simply a piece of tin the exact length of the inside of the 
crate, and about If inches broad ; both edges are folded a quarter 
of an inch, and then again doubled ; this gives extra strength, and 
the right distance between top of the hive and the bottom of the 
section. A strip of tin about an inch deeper than the crate is 
soldered to the under side of the bearer, allowing half an inch for 
that purpose, and the other half inch is turned at right angles at 
the other end to form an “ ear ” for resting upon the top edge of 
the crate, which should be sunk at each rest the thickness of the 
tin, so that the upper edge is level. These end pieces should also- 
have their edges turned. 
The crate is simply an outer rim of the desired size, and about 
three-eighths of an inch deeper than the section. It will be observed 
these rests suit any size of section, and from one to any number 
can be wrought upon any hive, as in one compartment, and tho 
tins are cheap, and can be made by anyone. If a small staple 
be driven underneath the rest at the bottom and side of crate 
it will keep them in place, and will not interfere with the easy 
removal of sections. 
Shelter for Hives. 
The bee-keeper and the beginner should, as in other matter Sr 
have the stand and shelter prepared beforehand, that is before 
swarms appear. There are many forms of cases and houses for 
bee hives already described which may be left to the choice of the 
individual. The following is not an expensive shelter, and is 
lasting, and is meant for three or four hives. Four scantlings for 
corner posts, 2 feet 3 inches by 3 inches by 3 inches. For the 
front from say 7 feet to 8 feet long is a suitable size for three or 
four hives, and from 2 feet 6 inches to 3 feet wide, which the bee¬ 
keeper may determine for himself, and which must be the length 
of the scantlings, 3 inches by 1^ inch. The top scantling or the wall 
plate should be half checked, so that it may be flush on the top,, 
the roof to have a slight hang to the back, it being of corrugated 
galvanised iron. Two scantlings, 2 inches by 2 inches, are all the 
framing required. These are held to the iron by screws, is hinged 
to the wall plate, and rests upon the posts at the back, and held 
down by a hook and eye. When a square frame has been formed 
by nailing two scantlings on the ends of two posts it is finished, 
unless the bee-keeper has a mind to put in struts and diagonals. 
Now nail the top plate of the ends as described to the front, bub 
