550 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 18, 189r, 
the under one may be nailed on the under side without checking. 
After this put in the back posts. When completed will form 
two right angles, or a front and two ends. 
To fasten this place in charred and tarred posts in the ground 
at each end, inside of upper corner parts of fram°, bore holes in 
the under plate, and nail firm to the posts in the ground, the back 
ones being the lowest for drip, if this is done acc irately will bring 
end portions right which may be strutted or not. Having the 
posts in the ground separate from the framework, and kept 
back from the corner, enables the bee-keeper to renew these posts 
easily when required without interfering with the framework, 
which lasts longer than ground parts do. 
Sheets of plain galvanised iron held by a few round-headed 
screws are all the fastenings required. I have omitted to say 
•the bottom of the shelter should not be lower than will show 
3 inches of hive from top of landing-board. It will be seen that 
the shelter is simply a small shed open at bottom, and without a 
■back. Doors may be added, but all I recommend is a curtain of 
some cheap material. 
It depends greatly where these shelters are situated as to the 
uses they may be put to. They may be as high again as advised 
above. Near fruit plantations newly gathered fruit may be 
packed and temporarily stored beneath them, and being portable 
may be moved about to shelter workers from rain. If ground 
is valuable flowers or fruit bushes may be trained, and handy for 
gardeners to shelter Chrysanthemums for a frosty night when a 
pressure of work is on. 
If fruit is to be grown on them get a few iron studs about 
3 inches long, having a hole in one end and the other pointed to 
drive into the angles, and stretch wires across or wire netting to 
train Currant or Gooseberry bushes to. The roof being almost 
■flat will be handy at times to dry herbs. The structure, although 
mot ornamental, is neat enough for shrubberies or even the flower 
garden. Its utility recommends it.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUE RECEIVED. 
G. Shrewsbury, 36, Gray’s Inn Road, London.— Price List of Hot- 
Water Apparatus. 
R. Osven, Maidenhead.— Catalogue of Chrysanthemums. 
H. & F. Sharpe, Wisbech.— List of Seed Potatoes. 
Foster & Pearson, Beeston, Notts.— Catalogue of LLorticultural Build¬ 
ings and Heating Apparatus. 
Sutton & Sons, Reading.— Amateurs' Guide in Horticulture, highly 
Illustrated. 
James Veitch & Sons, Royal Exotic Nursery, King’s Road, Chelsea.— 
Lllustrated Seed Catalogue for 1S91. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Carpet Bedding- Plans. —If you desire designs for copying you 
'will find several in the “ Parks and Gardens of London,” published at 
Ahis office, po3t free for 2s. lid. There are also some good ones in a 
.small manual prepared by Mr. A. Graham, Hampton Court Gardens, 
Kingston-on-Thames ; but we do not know whether he has any copies 
left or not. If you wish to learn geometrical drawing you will find 
lessons in Cassell's “ Popular Educator,” which you can obtain through 
a bookseller. 
Gardenias in Winter (IF. R. SC). —If the plants are swelling 
their flower buds they must not be kept in a lower temperature than 65°. 
Be careful not to give too much water, this will bring about deformity 
of the flower buds. If carefully supplied with water the same tempera¬ 
ture as the house, and artificial manure is applied in small quantities to 
the surface of the soil at intervals of two or three weeks, the roots will 
continue active, and the flower buds develop naturally. Those that are 
first showing their flower buds and intended for spring flowering will do 
very well in a temperature 5° lower, provided they are not kept too wet 
at their roots. Young plants in 2-inch pots intended for growing on 
early in the year should be placed in the first-named temperature so 
that they can be kept slowly advancing. Pinch out the points of the 
plants to prevent their running up tall. Keep these plants close to 
the glass, but be careful that the soil does not become dry about 
their roots. 
Growing- Chrysanthemums QMum). —Nine-tenths of the blooms 
that win prizes at exhibitions are produced by plants that are not 
topped at any time, though many growers top some of their plants once 
in spring, with the object of retarding the formation of the buds of 
varieties which are apt to show too soon. As you intend “ making your 
first start ” as an exhibitor next year you can scarcely expect to defeat 
experienced men in a forty-eight class, and if you succeed in doing so 
you will deserve much credit for the achievement. Most persons 
commence by showing in the smaller classes ; still, if you produce 
sufficient first-class blooms for the larger by all means enter in those 
classes if you wish to do so. Manures have different effects in different 
soils, and no one kind can be said to be the beat for all. You should read 
attentively Mr. Molyneux’s and Mr. Iggulden’s works on Chrysanthemum 
culture, both of which can be had from our office, the former for Is. 2d., 
the latter for 9^d., post free. The foregoing reply was in type awaiting 
publication when your second letter arrived. You can ask as many 
questions as you like, and answers wflll be readily given as soon as 
practicable. We answer all that we receive, but we cannot help letters 
being occasionally lost in the post ; these accidents, however, seldom 
occur when the addresses are sufficiently full, and plain for delivery. 
Rose Climbing- Devoniensis (V. J. T.). —The following de¬ 
scription of the Rose you name was given by W. R. Raillem in this 
Journal early in the current year. It gives the exact information you 
require. “ (Pavitt, 1858).—I have not noticed the-climbing sports of the 
H.P.’s, as they seem to me to be of little practical value, since the 
blooms are generally inferior to the type, and better pillar and wall 
Roses are to be found among the Noisettes, Gloire de Dijon?, Ayrshire, 
Evergreen, or Banksias. Some nine or ten are catalogued, and oddly 
enough they are mostly sports of varieties which have quite a short 
growth naturally. This Tea Rose, however, “ out-herods Herod” in 
differing from the Devoniensis type, which (as we have seen) is of quite 
moderate growth, but the climbing variety is the strongest, most untidy, 
and irregular grower we have. Growing is its strong point, and it 
sometimes nearly omits the flowering part of the business altogether. 
A strong long shoot of the Gloire de Dijon or Noisette races, if laid in 
well and uninjured by frost, will bloom freely all up the rod. But not 
so Climbing Devoniensis. Away it goes again (if well treated on a 
south wall) from the top bud of last year’s shoot, and its sole endea¬ 
vour seems to be to get to the top of the wall as quickly as possible, and 
as a plant to look as bare at the base, ugly, and lopsided as it can. The 
great pithy, thorny, flowerless shoots are very susceptible to frost, and 
are not handsome at any time. But I have seen it show better manners, 
growing moderately and blooming freely throughout the summer on a 
south wall, where no attention was paid to it; and I believe this 
desirable state of affairs was attained by simple starvation, but the buds 
were small, and only useful as passable buttonholes.” 
IVIixed laburnum (A, H ).—Your designation of the tree leads 
us to suppose that you refer to a Laburnum bearing both yellow and 
purple flowers. We have seen many of such trees, the variety being 
known as Cytisus Adami. In all probability this was originally pro¬ 
duced upwards of fifty years ago in budding Cytisus purpureus on the 
common Laburnum. In this process it is supposed that a cell of the 
one species became divided and united to a cell of tbe other, and the 
result has been a plant producing not only flowers of each species 
separately, but others partaking of the characters of both. There are 
other instances in the vegetable kingdom in which a similar union of 
cells is believed to have taken place, but Cytisus Adami is the best- 
known and best established. Mr. Fish has added the following in¬ 
teresting notes on the subject :—“ The changes produced on the 
Laburnum when grafted are sometimes wonderful and wholly unac¬ 
countable. We have rarely seen the common or Scotch Laburnum 
sport into other varieties. YVe recollect of only one instance in which 
flowers of purpurascens appeared. But if you graft either of the 
Laburnums with Cytisus purpureus or Cytisus supinus, the vagaries 
which sometimes take place are astonishing. A small standard of 
Cytisus alpinus was grafted with Cytisus purpureus, and on the same 
branch will sometimes be found small pieces of yellow and purple, and 
at the very point strong shoots of the Cytisus alpinus, the 1 blood ’ of 
the stock finding its way through the more weakly growth of the scion. 
What is remarkable is, that grafting or budding with one variety 
will frequently, as the plant grows, present you with three or four 
varieties.” 
