July 15, 188G. ] 
j UR PAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
53 
covered walls, will well repay cultivation. In tliis case I find it best to remove 
a fairly good pitch of the Moss with the mortar to which it is attached, and 
place it on the rock work just as removed; and to keep it intact, until I 
reached home, I have found it advisable to wrap the whole mass in some 
strong paper, else the friable nature of the mortar will cause it to crumble 
to pieces in the carriage. 
“ Many of the Bryum3 are worth growing; and the large tufts of Bryum 
capillare, such as are frequent on old roofs, are easily removed and soon 
establish themselves, and if gathered when the fruit is still young and green 
will soon make a goodly show. 
“ Mnium undulatum also thrives well if removed in good-sized tufts, and 
seems to thrive better than most species in the confinement of a Fern 
shade. I have had it in beautiful fruit under such culture. Muium hornum 
will require plenty of moisture, is easily cultivated, and will give a good 
supply of fruit. 
“The wall species, such as Bryum argenteum, B. c®3piticium, and B. 
murale require but little moisture, and seem to thrive best when grown in 
shady situations. The genus Hypnum will yield a number of species that 
will amply repay any attention that may be given to them. My own 
experience will only embrace H. rutabulnm, H. prselongum, H. confertum, 
and H. d“nticulatum. But I have seen H. tamanscinum and H. loreum 
cultivated in a friend’s Moss-house with great success, the former fruiting 
freely under culture, and the latter, although always sterile, still showing a 
most vigorous growth. Hookeria lucens, too, I have seen under like circum¬ 
stances ; and here the plan adopted was that of keeping the pot in which 
the plant was growing always immersed to a fair depth in water. The 
beauty of this plant when well grown can only be realised by those who 
have seen it. 
“Fissidens taxifolius, which will be found on shady banks in heavy sods, 
may also be grown in a properly constituted soil; but with both this plant 
and the smaller species, F. bryoides, experience teaches that a Fern case suits 
best for their growth. F. adiantoides, a fine Moss growing in marshes, will do 
best with the treatm°ntgiven to Hookeria lucens, as mentioned above; and 
as it always appears to fruit best in th • dampest situations, such treatment 
would probably be productive of good results. I have never grown this. 
Many other ^species may be tried with success, such as Aulacomnion 
palustre Dicranum scoparium, some of the Rhacomitriums ; but experience 
will be a better teacher than I can hope to be.” 
T he Tourists’ Guide to the Flora of the Alps. By Professor K. W. 
Dalla-Torre. Translated and Edited by Alfred W. Bennett, 
M.A., B.So., F.L.S. London : Swan, Sonnenschein, Le Bas, & Lowry, 
Paternoster Square. 1886. 
The numerous tourists in the European Alps who wish to learn some¬ 
thing about the plants there found, to recognise and determine their 
names, will find this elegant little volume a welcome companion. All the 
most characteristic species and varieties are arranged under their 
natural orders, brief descriptions of the essential characters of orders, 
tribes, genera, and species being given. The larger genera also 
have the species classified under sections and their names thus more 
readily found. The habitats are stated, with in most cases the geological 
formation or kind of soil upon which they are growing, and the altitude 
at which they are found, all points of importance, and interesting to 
cultivators of these alpines. The Guide includes all the flowering plants 
and Ferns, and an appendix gives the names of those which are found in 
the alpine districts, but which are also natives of England or familiar 
European plants. In tbe work generally the translator has closely fol¬ 
lowed the original of Professor Dalla-Torre, but in place of the “ clavis ” 
arrangement has substituted “ diagnoses taken and abbreviated from 
those of Benthim, Hooker, or some other high authority.” The book 
comprises 392 page 5 , is printed in clear type on thin paper, an! neatly 
bound in red morocco with a tuck, exactly adapting it for the pocket. 
WORK/oiiTfffi\x/ EEK.. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The Drought. —This is becoming severe. Crops which were nearly 
mature 1 a few weeks ago are doing well, but later ones have been brought 
almost to a standstill. Early Potatoes are excellent, but midseason ones 
will be very small if rain does not come soon. We have lately had an 
opportunity of seeing many crops, and in some parts, especially in Here¬ 
fordshire and Shropshire, the drought is injuring tbe young crops to a 
great extent. It is a long time since we experienced so much hot dry 
weather at the end of June and in the early part of July. The ground 
between all growing crops should be kept well hoed, and where water is 
plentiful do not fail to use it freely. Peas may be drenched with advantage 
two or three times weekly. Kidney Beans will take large quantities. 
Vegetable Marrows, ridge Cucumbers, and Tomatoes should be kept con¬ 
stantly moist. Vegetable crops generally will pay for watering. 
Mulching. —It is now the advantage of this becomes strikingly 
a isible. Plants which were mulched before the dry weather set in are 
now fresh and healthy, and others not yet mulched will be benefited bv 
an early application of it. The term may be a gardeners’ one, but tbe 
practice is good, and consists of spreading a quantity of half-decayed 
manure over tbe surface of the ground where tbe roots are growing. This 
retains tbe moisture in the soil and keeps the roots cool. Peas, Leeks, 
Celery, Beans, Cauliflowers, &c., are all benefited by it. We have applied 
it in the following way with good results ; hoe or fork up the surface first, 
then water thoroughly, and apply the manure before the moisture has time 
to evaporate. 
Planting Winter Crops. —We have frequently had the most of 
our Savoys, Broocoli, Kale, and winter crops generally out before this 
time, but as yet very fow of them have been planted, owing to the dry 
weather. As soon as rain comes, however, planting should be the order 
of the day, and the whole of the winter crops should be placed out as 
soon as possible. Where vacant ground is scarce and some of the early 
Potatoes are matured, lift these and store them for immediate use. Full- 
grown Turnips may also be treated in this way, and where any crop is 
likely to be cleared off soon try and plant Greens between them, as they 
will grow and take their proper place when the other crop is cleared. It 
is now late to plant out Brussels Sprouts, but where this has not been done 
yet do so at the earliest opportunity. In all cases it is a good plan to 
mix a quantity of soil, soot, and lime until the mixture is the thickness of 
paint, then dip the roots in it before planting. This not only helps them, 
bat keeps grubs away. 
Leeks.—E arly-planted Leeks should receive a large quantity of 
liquid manure, then earth them up. They are of little use unless well 
blanched, and the white part cannot be too long or over-thick. Leeks are 
most useful in wint-r and. spring, and large quan'ities should be grown 
in every garden. All the late ones should now be planted out. Give 
them rich soil, and put them in 15 inches from row to row and 9 inches 
from plant to plant. 
Vegetable Marrows and Ridge Cucumbers. —The Marrows 
are now bearing freely on the top of a manure heap, and in all cases it is 
a good plan to water them freely twice a week. See that the water does 
not run off the surface of the mound without going to the roots. Thin 
the shoots and keep them well pegged out. The crop will never be good 
where it is hidden by the foliage. As soon as the fruit becomes ready for 
use cut them off, as to allow them to mature at this time would soon stop 
the formation of more fruit. September is quite soon enough to reserve 
any for seed. Tne ridge Cucumbers are not yet rea iy, but they are grow¬ 
ing fast and require attention in stopping and thinning the shoots. 
Compact growth is the best in their case, and the shoots may be pinched 
in frequently. All crooked fruit or any deformed should be cut off as soon 
as they are noticed, as it is only the straight well developed fruits that are 
valuable. Water freely with liquid manure, and cut the fruit as soon as 
ever tbey are ready. 
Turnips. —The earliest of these are over. All that are running to 
seed must be thrown away. Crops which are past using should never be 
allowed to occupy space at this season, when so many vegetables require 
planting for winter. Make a large sowing of Turnips for winter use. 
Chirk Cistle is a very hardy variety, and so is Orange Jelly and Veitch’s 
Red Globe. They must have rich soil anl a sunny position. S ime are 
inclined to think that any place is good enough for Turnips, but this is a 
mistake, as large, tender, s veet roots will never be produced in poor soil. 
Make the rows 18 inches apart, open the drills 2 inches deep, and sow 
good seed very thinly, A little rain is a great assistance to the young 
plants as they are coming through the ground and until they form their 
rough leaves ; but if the seed is sown immed atoly the ground is dug 
and before it dries it will germinate in forty-eight hours. 
Garlic and Shallots. —These are almost matured, and tbey may 
be drawn up and laid out to dry. The best place to dry them is the 
surface of a gravel or ash walk. They should be turned every alternate 
day for a fortnight, and then store them, bat do n it break them up. 
When it is wet they may be dried in a cool shed under cover. Plant the 
space with some winter crop. 
Cabbage. —The first seed of those intended for autumn planting 
must be sown. In late districts it is well to have a good quantity of seed 
in by the middle of July, but in favourable localities the end of the month 
is most suitaole. Select a piece of rich soil in which to sow the seed, and 
sow it thinly in rows or broadcast about 1 inch below the surface. The 
situation should be well exposed, as these plants should by no means be 
drawn up or p impered in any way. A dwarf, robust growth to withstand 
the winter is what is required. 
Weeds. —If these are hoed now they will not become very trouble¬ 
some this season again. If allowed to grow on, h wever, they will soon 
Seed, and then nothing will prevent their appearing in crowds in the 
autumn and next year. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Melons. — Securing Flavour. —The greatest aid to flavour is a rathi r 
dry and warm atmosphere, with thorough ventilation when the fruit is 
ripeniDg; but this will not impart high flavour to fruit wh'ch is produced 
by a plant that during the period of swelling has been neglected in the 
lemoval of superfluous growths, it being essential that the food supplies 
be thoroughly elaborated and a thick flesh secured. 
Stopping and Removing Growths. —When the fruit is set and swelled 
to the size of an egg, the laterals should be kept p nched to one leaf, and 
if this results in too much foliage, so that the leaves upon the primary 
shoots are crowded or shaded by them, thinning must be resorted to. 
removing a litt'e at a time in preference to a quantity at once, tbe 
latter giving a check unfavourable to the swelling of tbe fruit, not in¬ 
frequently causing it to cease swelling ; in that ca-e it bee mes hard in 
the flesh, and s imeiimes causes it to i xude or gangrene. The plants 
should be gone over once a week at lea‘t, and in tbe case of vigorous 
plants twi :e, for stopping and the removal of superfluous shoots, the 
principal leaves being fully exposed to light and air. 
Watering. —The plants must never lack moisture at the roots. If 
