62 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 22 , R S6. 
berries. Ferrets and terriers are the best for these. Insects do 
not trouble much, the cuckoo spit insect is sometimes a nuisance. 
Crushing the pests with the hand is the best cure, and sometimes 
aphides infest the trusses. A softsoap solution, 2 ozs. to the 
gallon syringed over the plants before they come into flower, will 
destroy them. 
Strawberry blight or mildew is a consequence of drought. 
There is no remedy but forcible waterings, mulching, and plenty 
of moisture at the roots. A thorough rain generally clears it 
away.—G. Abbey. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND THEIR CULTURE. 
(Continued from page 37.) 
FEEDING AND TOP-DRESSING. 
Feeding and top-dressing are two points in the cultivation of 
Chrysanthemums which are of the utmost importance. The term 
“ feeding ” means the application of stimulants at a time when the 
plants are supposed to have exhausted the greater part of the 
manurial matter in the soil. When the plants are potted in new soil 
they grow freely for a time if clear water only is given, and they 
assume a colour in the leaves natural to the variety ; but after a 
time if nothing is applied to the roots but clear water the foliage 
changes to a sickly yellow, and the lower leaves fall. It is just at 
the time when the roots have taken full possession of the soil that 
feeding should commence. Many growers advise that stimulants 
be not applied until the flower buds are formed ; but after having 
fully considered the matter I think this is a mistake, because in 
some cases the flower buds do not form till the middle and end of 
September, and sometimes later than that. From this stage to the 
time the plants are in bloom is much too short a space to allow 
them a chance of deriving much benefit from the application of 
artificial support. The plants ought to be fed long before the time 
arrives for the buds to form, so as they may be strong at that 
critical period. If the plants are not sufficiently fed that they may 
retain their former vigour, how can they be expected to form strong 
and healthy flower buds ? Weakly plants never produce flower 
buds of the same quality as stronger plants of the same variety ; 
and if the buds are not produced in proportion to the necessary 
qualities of each variety, how can the flowers be properly developed ? 
When the plants are growing well do not let them deteriorate by 
lack of attention in this point, but keep them advancing ; allow no 
check to take place, or a breakdown will assuredly occur when least 
expected. Feeding should commence as soon as the pots in which 
the plants are to flower are full of roots—that is to say, as soon as 
the roots have pushed through the new soil and are being entwined 
around the sides of the pot. When in this condition the roots 
appear to be searching for fresh food, and that is the best description 
I can give of the time to begin the use of stimulants. The 
time that the plants were potted, the size of the pots, and 
the kind of soil used, the manner in which potting was per¬ 
formed, and what varieties are grown, all tend to alter the time 
when feeding is required. No one can make a mistake by doing as 
I advise, for he can easily convince himself as to how the rooting 
process is going on by turning a few of the plants carefully out. 
The strongest growing varieties always make roots most quickly, 
and the more delicate growers most slowly ; therefore select some 
of the medium-habited plants and judge from these the manner in 
which the remainder is progressing. 
The best stimulants, and how to apply them, are the next con¬ 
siderations. Local circumstances, in some instances, must be taken 
into account, as well as the means at the disposal of the cultivator. 
Various kinds of liquid manures, such as the drainings from the 
cow houses and stables, are excellent. I prefer the former as 
being cooler than the latter. Where liquid manure cannot be had 
from tanks direct from the places named, a very good substitute 
may be had from a heap of manure by throwing clean water over it, 
allowing it to soak through the manure, and collect in a pit at the 
side of the heap. Sheep manure gathered fresh from the fields may 
be placed in a bag to prevent the manure dissolving and mixing 
with the water, which renders it too thick. Place the bag in a 
tank or tub of water, allow it to soak for twelve hours, when the 
water will be ready for use, and by moving the bag about in the 
water occasionally a regular supply maybe maintained until the 
qualities of the manure are exhausted. Liquid manure made in the 
same way from deer droppings or cow manure, all make excellent 
stimulants for the plants. Soot is almost indispensable to the 
growth of these plants. Applied in a liquid form it soon produces 
a change in the colour of the foliage of pale-looking plants. Some 
place a quantity in a waterpot of water, stirring it to dissolve, then 
pour it on to the soil in the pots ; but this method is wrong, as the 
sediment remaining on the top of the soil seals at once the passage 
way for future watering. The correct method of using soot in a 
liquid form is to place as much as is required into a sack sufficiently 
close to prevent the soot being washed out, the water soaking 
through the soot within the bag becomes charged with the manurial 
properties. Water used in this manner may be given to the plants 
at every time they require watering, for a week after which time 
it is better to withhold soot water for three weeks, then give them 
another course of soot water. One bushel of soot in a bag will be 
ample in a tank holding 100 gallons of water along with other 
manures given at the same time. 
It is difficult to define the quantity of manure to use for 
making liquids, as so much depends upon the requirements of 
the cultivator. A safer guide is to use the liquid made from 
animal manures about the colour of brown brandy. Guano finds 
favour with some growers ; it is easily prepared, and its efficacy is 
undoubted. A 4-inch potful to thirty-six gallons of water is a safe 
quantity to use. Nitrate of soda applied at the rate of a half tea¬ 
spoonful to a 10-inch pot, and watered in, has a remarkably quick 
effect on the foliage and growth of the plants. No doubt if used 
once or twice in a season it is beneficial ; but given in excess of the 
quantity named it would be positively dangerous, tending, as it 
does, to force the growth too rapidly at the expense of solidity and 
maturity. Sulphate of ammonia in careful hands is an excellent 
manure, perhaps unequalled ; but the per-centage of ammonia 
contained in the different samples varies so much that it is 
decidedly risky to use it. I have seen plants killed by one or two 
doses, given of course without judgment as to its safety ; but, as 
before stated, when applied properly excellent results are obtained. 
Before using any the cultivator must be positive that his plants 
are thoroughly well rooted. The pots should be full of roots. 
The best way to apply it is as follows :—Dissolve one tablespoonful 
in four gallons of liquid manure and apply it"*to the plants once a 
week. The alteration in the colour of the leaves after its appli¬ 
cation can be quickly discerned if they were pale before. The main 
veins or arteries quickly assume a deep green, which rapidly spreads 
all over the leaf ; the colour of the blooms is much improved also. 
The pinks, lilacs and darker shades are rendered much richer by the 
use of this manure. Some growers sprinkle the ammonia on the 
surface of the soil and water it in, but this is dangerous to the 
surface roots of the plants. 
The only matter now remaining is to note the time it should 
be applied. The time it should commence I pointed out. It is not 
wise to give the plants the same kind of stimulant continually ; it 
should be varied, using one sort for, say, a week, then make a change 
in favour of another. To the strongest growing varieties stimulants 
should be applied every time they require water, commencing the 
application in a weak state, increasing the strength gradually until 
the maximum is reached. Some growers advise that feeding be 
discontinued as soon as the bloom buds show colour, but in my 
opinion that is just the stage when assistance is required to develope 
the blooms. Continue to feed the plants until the blooms are three 
parts expanded. For the weaker-growing sorts possessing fewer 
roots than the more robust varieties feeding should continue until 
the flowers are in the same stage as before named, but the liquid 
must not be given quite so strong nor so often, occasionally giving 
clear water only. 
Top-dressing means placing on to the surface of the soil some¬ 
thing to encourage root action. Various kinds of materials find 
favour, such as bonemeal, turfy loam which has been previously 
well soaked in liquid manure, decomposed cow manure, fresh horse 
droppings, leaf soil, and dissolved bones. Where the soil in which 
the plants are growing is of a strong retentive nature a covering of 
half an inch thick of leaf soil and finely crushed bones, two parts of 
the former to one of the latter, may be used with advantage ; but 
where the soil is inclined to be sandy two parts of turfy loam, with 
only the fibre retained, and that soaked as advised, to one of bones 
laid on three-quarters of an inch thick and pressed down firmly is 
excellent. If there was not sufficient space left at potting time to 
allow of this quantity being added, build up around the edge of the 
pot with thin pieces of turf to make space for the application of 
water after the top-dressing is laid on. This should be done when 
the roots appear on the surface of the soil after the final potting, 
which will be some time during August.— E. Molyneux. 
MADRESFIELD COURT GRAPE CRACKING. 
My advice was recently requested concerning the cause of this Grape 
cracking. A friend brought me a few cracked berries, the finest fruit I 
have ever seen, just beginning to colour as usual. The advice I gave him 
was to provide tree ventilation at front and top, the front to be lelt open 
a little all night, and to cover the roots with a shutter to keep them dry, 
most of the roots being outside. However, to completely satisfy him, I 
returned with him, and I will just note down a few fuitber particulars 
which may prove of benefit to someone. The Vine is planted at the west 
