76 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
t July 22, 1886. 
torily on account of the exposed situation of the garden. It is different 
with the trees on the walls, which grow vigorously and mature heavy 
crops of fruit in good seasons. There is a good Peach wall here with a 
projecting framework of glass under the coping, which affor Is protection 
toa fiDe lot of trees in the best of health, and at the time of my visit were 
ladened with fruit the size of pigeons’ eggs. The varieties consisted of 
Lord Palmerston, one of the best of the large late varieties which ripen in 
the end of September ; Prince of Wales, another excellent late variety, 
fruit tender, melting, and juicy ; Barrington, an old standard variety that 
should be grown in every collection ; Early Alfred, which ripens in the 
beginning of August ; Dr. Hogg, an excellent variety ripen'ng in August ; 
and Hardwick Nectarine, which is one of the hardiest and most prolific 
in cultivation. The different quarters in the kitchen garden were cropped 
systematically, each bemg filled with vegetables of one kind, the 
dwarfer and choicer sorts by themselves, and the cooler and stronger- 
growing kinds were treated in like manner, a quarter being devoted to 
Rhubarb, Artichokes, Asparagus, Peas, &c. The smaller fruits—Goose¬ 
berries, Currants, Raspberries, and Strawberries—were grown on the same 
principle. 
The Melon ground is one of the best I have seen for some time. It is 
convenient to the forcing and plant houses, and is completely shut in and 
sheltered by high hedges. It contains a good many pits and frames for 
bedding and other plants, and plenty of open space for growing and 
plunging plants during the summer, and for storing hardy plants in winter. 
It is here that the seedling Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and coniferous plants 
are grown in boxes until they are sufficiently large to be bedded out in 
nursery lines. Mr. Warmington had growing here an excellent assortment 
of Liliums in 11-inch pots, amongst which were L. Fortunei.jL. speciosum, 
L. longifl irum bicolor, L. marmoratum, L. sanguineum, and others. They 
were growing in a oompost of equal parts of peat and loam, which seemed 
to suit them admirably. 
After leaving the Melon ground with its many objects of interest, we 
were shown through the forcing and plant houses. Tne first of these, a 
lean-to greenh >use, was furnished with a good selection of Tuberous 
Begonias, Vallotis, Pelargoniums, and a choice collection of cool Orchids. 
The roof was partly covered by a large plant of Lapageria alba, which 
grows vigorously and flowers freely, the flowers lasting for a long time in 
perfection before fading. Next to this is an Orchid house, which contains 
a rich collection of well-grown plants, clean and healthy. Mr. Llewelyn 
is a good orchidist, and perhaps it would not be too much to say that he 
inherits his love for them from his late father, who was deeply interested 
in their introduction and cultivation, that he and another gentleman em¬ 
ployed a collector of Orchids between them long before Orchidese became 
so common in this country. The following are a few of the varieties that 
were in fl >wer or throwing up spikes at tne time of my visit—Cypri- 
pedium barbatum, C. Lowi, C. niveum, C. caudatum, C. Pearcei. C. super- 
biens, C. Lawrencianum, C. Parishi, C. concolor, C. hirsutissimum, C. 
venustum, C. purpuratum, and C. Stonei. In close proximity to the latter 
wasalarge plantof Peristeria elata throwing tip five spikesof great strength, 
and five large clumps of Dendrobium nobile in 14-inch pots, each pot having 
a little forest of pseudo-bulbs. Besides these, there were fine pieces of 
L. Dalhou-ianum, D. Wardianum, D. maeropbyllum, D. pulcheliurn, and 
others growing in boxes 2 feet square. There were also good pieces of 
Aerides odoratum, A. crispum, and a large plant of A. odoratum purpu- 
rascens, with seventy spikes, Phalaenopsis grandiflora, Vanda Cathcarii, 
Phaius ma'ulatus, Dendiochilnm filiforme, Oncidium ampliatum, with 
strong spikes 2 feet long. Besides these, there were large batches of 
Calanthes and other winter flowering varieties, some large plants of 
Eucharis strong and healthy, and a few specimen Pitcher Plants. 
The next range consists of three lean-to vineries, each about 50 feet in 
length. The first of these was filled with a Black Hamburgh Vine some 
eighty years old. It is planted in an inside border and produces heavy 
crops of medium-sized bunches yearly. The second division is planted 
with Lady Downe’s Seedling and Black Hamburgh, which were carrying 
heavy crops of large bunches. The third division is planted with late 
varieties, which prolong the supply of Grapes to the end of March. The 
Vines in all the divisions were clean and healthy, and showed signs of 
good culture throughout. 
In conclusion, I have to thank Mr. Llewelyn and his courteous 
gardener for my enjoyable visit to Penllergare.—A. Pettigeew, Cardiff j 
VIOLETS IN POTS. 
I There are various methods of growing Violets in pots which will be 
treated of separately, each having- its par'icular advantages. 
I. Plants Geown Outdoors and Lifted in Late Summer. 
— These afford the largest plants, the largest blooms, and are most 
useful for general purposes. The plants are treated in every respect 
the same as for lifting to plant in frames. Select the most pro¬ 
mising— i.e., those plants wi'h strong central crowns, sturdy habit, 
and hold persistent f diage, clean and healthy. Lift carefully about 
the middle of September, preserving all the roots possible, and 
with the hand reduce the ball to a size that will allow of its being 
placed in the pots with a couple of inches clear space all ar und, and 
preserving xhe roots. The large-growing varieties will require pits 
8 or 9 inches in diameter, and the medium growers 6 or 7 inches, the 
small growers being accommodated in 5 or 6-inch pots. Place one large 
crock or an oyster shell at the bottom of the pot, and two or three of 
larger size over it, and then some rough leaf soil and lumpy loam to raise 
it to the required height, so that the neck of the plant will be just level 
with the rim of the pot. Use turfy loam, with a fourth of ra her roug h 
leaf soil, and a quart of soot to a bushel of compost for potting. The 
compost is best rongh so as to admit of the plants rootiag freely through 
it, and the air that is taken down through using the rough soil and 
frequent watering seems to exert a beneficial effect upon the roots, and 
with these feeding can be practised largely. In a close soil there is 
danger of its becoming sodden, the roots are sparse, and the flowers are 
poor. Work the soil in amongst the roots, and make it moderately firm, 
leaving about an inch space below the rim of the pot for holding water in 
the larger size, and less in those of smaller size. Stand on a north 
border on a bed of ashes, and sprinkle them morning and evening with 
water from a rose pot. a good supply being given directly the plants are 
placed in position after potting, and the soil being moist when potted, 
they will not require any water but the sprinklings overhead for a week, 
when roots being emitted, supplies will be required at intervals. The 
soil must not be made too wet, and it must not be allowed to become 
too dry. 
In a fortnight remove them to a pit or frame with a sunny aspect. If 
frost can be kept out, stand oa ashos, otherwise plunge the pots in ashes 
to the rim. The plants should not be crowded, but have space every way, 
and n it more than 6 inches clear of the glass. Here they will need water 
when necessary, a th rough supply when the soil is getting dry and before 
the foliage flags. Air should be admitted as advised for Violets in frames. 
Fiom the frames the plants can be taken to the greenhouse for accelerating 
the flowerin/ preparatory to use in the house, &c. Assign a position near 
the glass and near the ventilators, the temperature artificially not exceed¬ 
ing 45° to 50°. Afford weak liquid manure, and clear, every time water is 
required. 
Varieties for the Lifting System of Pot Culture. —Victoria Regina, 
September to spring. Princess of Prussia, September to spring. This is 
the finest shaped of all single Violets ; purple ; flowers of great sub¬ 
stance, very sweet. Raised by Mr. G. Lee, and not sent out by him. I 
have, however, grown it many years. Prince Consort, September to 
spring. Foliage large, round or cordate; bluish purple; large flowers, 
footstalks very long, the longest in Violets. Not in commerce ; raised by 
Lee. White Czar, September to spring. Those have all large foliage 
and flowers, and require ihe largest size pots. In those that are useful for 
dec irative purposes we have D mble Pink, September to spring; New York, 
September to spring ; White Neapolitan, September to spring ; De Parme, 
September to spring. Those suitable for the second size pets are— 
Patrie, September to spring ; and Russian, winter, only given because a 
great favourite with many. These are suitable for the lesser sized pots. 
If a light one be wanted, Parmaensis plena may be added. The spring 
b'oomers are omitted. N B.—The very best for pots are New York, 
White Neapolitan, Di Parme, and Patrie, a quartette of gems, flowering 
from September to March inclusive. 
II. Peemanent Pot Cultivation of Violets. — This may be 
annual or perennial. We take the lirst as best. Early runners or suckers 
are taken in spring from plants in frames or otherwise, and rooted in 
gentle heat as advised previously, and instead of planting them out they 
are pitted, first into 3-inch pots, and plunged in ashes duly watered and 
attended to. When the plants are established, and have filled the pots 
with roots, they are shifted into their largest pots before they become 
much root-bound, or early in June. Five and six-inch pots are most suit- 
atde. The pots should be clean, have a large crock over he h le, and 
then a few balf-inch bones. The soil may consist of turfy loam of 
medium texture, torn up with the hand into moderately small portions, 
four parts, one part leaf soil or thoroughly decayed manure, h ilf a part 
old mortar rubbish, and a similar proportion of charcoal broken so as to 
pass a half-inch sieve. Mix, and add a quart of soot to every bushel of 
soil, and a similar quanuty of Amies’, Clay’s, Beeson’s, Jensen’s, or other 
artificial manure. Pot moderately firm. Stand on ashes, and plunge in the 
same in a i-beltered situation. Water as necessary, not over-watering so 
as to sodden the soil, Hnd do not withhold it so as to cripple ihe growth. 
Feed with liquid manure so soon as the pots are filled with roots. Sprinkle 
the foliage in the evening of hot days. Keep the plants clear of all 
runners and weeds, stirring ihe surface of the sod if it becomes green with 
a label pointed so as to form a spud. Remove the loose soil an I surface- 
dress with leaf soil or decayed cowdung, and repeat as necessary. If red 
spider attack the plants dipthecu in asolution of S' ftsoap, 2 ozs.to the gallon, 
commencing with its first appearance. It is equally efficacious against 
aphides. Remove to cold frames in October, and to the greenhouse as 
required. In a cool house they will flower through the winter, or a cord¬ 
ing to the variety. Frames erected against the sides of greenhouses are 
the mi st euiab e, and should be of a kind that will afford a free circula¬ 
tion of air in favmnahle wea'ber. 
Varieties for Pots Flowering in Autumn. —Neapolitan, New York, 
Marie Louise, VVbi'e Neap titan, De Parme, Patrie, Tree (Viola odorata 
arborea plena, doutile, bluish purple, and var. aloa), Double Pink, Par¬ 
maensis plena, and lilandy ana, purple, striped white, aud Duchess of 
Edinburgh, a Neapolitan of very variable character, but when in con lition 
lovely. 
Varieties for Pots Flowering in Early Spring. —King of Violets, 
Douole Purple or Scotch, D mble White or Compacta, Q ieeu of Violets, 
Double Russian, an l Empress, double blue, a form of Belle lie Chatenay 
or Queen of Violets, very closely allied to the variety of the latter mmed 
ccerulea plena. Very fine. Single varieties:—Neapolitan, lavender, 
white eye, very sweet, flowering with the double varieties ; Russian or 
Scotch; rubia, Spring; and Devoniensis, winter. The singles are not so 
much valued in pots as the doubles. 
All Violets maybe kept many years in pots. After hardening the 
