78 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 2!, 1886. 
The Double White Rocket. —Another plant among old favourites 
is the double White Rocket (Hesperis matronalis fl -pi.), with sturdy 
spikes of milky white flowers 2 feet or more high. The density of these 
fragrant spikes, combined with their massive appearance, render it one of 
of the best of our hardy flowering plants. Indeed, so freely does it 
flower that it is not uncommon for it to die in very hot seasons in exposed 
positions, and for this reason it must not be allowed to retain the flower 
stems too long, unless there is plenty of good plants in reserve. A word, 
by the way, as to planting it to insure success. Presuming good sized 
plants are preferred to quantity, it may be divided sufficiently for the 
purpose, the plants having been cut down as soon as the flowers commence 
fading will have the effect of hastening the young growths about the base 
of the plants. By the end of August these growths will have reached a 
good size with several leaves each, and at this time, with favourable 
weather, they may best be planted. By the appearance of frost they will 
have a good hold upon the soil. It is by planting in spring time that 
causes this Rocket too often to assume a puny miserable growth and pro¬ 
duce poor spikes of bloom in place of the giant massive spikes which at 
the present time make it so conspicuous.—J. H. E. 
(To be continued.) 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Strawberries. —Care should now be taken to induce runners to put 
forth roots freely, so as to have plenty of vigorous young plants for making 
new beds by the end of the month or early in August. Soil that is 
mellow, rich, and tolerably firm, but not hard, is the best for our purpose, 
and however rich we may have made the soil of the bed in which the old 
plants are established, it will have been trampled so much in the gathering 
of the fruit that the runner roots cannot easily lay hold of it. We have 
tried many plans in the preparation of runners for planting, and have loDg 
had strong reason to prefer the use of small pots filled with rich loam 
pressed firmly into them. The pots are then plunged to the rim in the 
soil between the old plants, and a strong runner pegged down so securely 
upon the soil in the pot that as the roots grow they must enter it. If the 
weather proves very hot and dry frequent waterings through the rose of 
a waterpot help the runners to become established in the pots quickly. 
When the roots have spread to the sides and bottoms of the pots the 
stolons bear separation from the old plants, and they are imme¬ 
diately taken to the new bed, turned out of the pots, and planted 
in permanent quarters. Deep rich soil, in which vegetables grow and 
thrive, answers well for Strawberries, but if the soil does not contain 
plenty of small stones it should have enough coal ashes mixed with it to 
insure porosity, a heavy soil very retentive of moisture often proving 
fatal to Strawberry roots in a cold wet winter, as we have found to our 
cost. Turn out the plants carefully, so as not to break the ball of soil, 
make a hole with a trowel, press the soil gently but securely around the 
roots, cover the top of the hall with a little fine soil, but do not bury the 
crown of the plant, and water well at once through a coarse rose to settle 
the plants well in the soil. The use of flower pots involves a little extra 
labour, but it prevents any check being given to the plants during the 
transplantation, and tends materially to insure success. By success we 
mean the formation of new beds which shall afford a supply of fine large 
early fruits the first season, instead of a few small fruit or none at all till 
the second year after planting. The fruit of new beds ripens early 
because it is not so much shaded by foliage as that of old beds. Two 
feet apart is the best distance for the plants, but in small gardens the 
rows should be 2 feet apart, and the plants a foot apart in the rows. We 
have made new beds with the plants and rows only a foot apart, and after 
the fruit was gathered the first season every alternate row was hoed up. 
Myth's method double the quantity of fruit is obtained in the first season 
and the permanent plants sustain no injury, a dressing of manure being 
dug in between the rows as the extra plants are cleared off. Do not 
forget to plant beds of early sorts both on sunny slopes and out in the 
open quarters of the garden, and the late sorts in the open and on north 
borders, so as to prolong the season of ripe fruit as much as possible. 
JNew sorts of Strawberries are introduced every year, and all which have 
reliable recommendations should be tried. Of sorts of proved excellence 
we recommend as being the most useful dozen sorts in general cultivation 
—Black Prince, Marguerite, Sir Joseph Paxton, James Veitch, Bicton 
Pine (white), Lucas, Dr. Hogar, President, Hammonia, Unzer Fritz, 
Frogmore Late Pine, and Loxford Hall Seedling, 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. Earliest Vines. —Ihe Vines will now require a dry atmo- 
sphere to thoroughly ripen the wood, but it will not be necessary to em- 
ploy artificial heat to insure the requisite warmth, as that can be effected 
by regulating the ventilators according to the weather, but avoiding a 
close atmosphere, especially at night, which would have the effect orin- 
ducing lateral growths that must now be restrained, keeping the laterals 
and all late growths well in hand, and seek complete rest by keeping the 
border cool and dry. To effect this cover the outside border with dry 
bracken or litter, and in case of heavy rain use tarpaulin, and keep the 
inside border dry. 
Vines in Pots for Early Foreing. —Those for next season’s early fruit¬ 
ing will have completed their growth, and cannot have too much light. 
The watering should not be more than necessary to keep the leaves fresh. 
Keeping the soil too dry will induce premature ripening. If they do not 
ripen freely keep them rather warm during the day, and ventilate freely 
at night. 
Young Vines. —Vines of this season’s planting should, if the light is 
not too much obstructed, he allowed to grow unchecked, it being pre¬ 
sumed they will be cut back to the bottom of the trellis, or to three or 
four eyes at the winter pruning. Any supernumeraries intended for next 
year’s fruiting should be regularly stopped at a length of 7 or 8 feet, 
removing the laterals from the buds intended to give fruit next year, 
preserving the old leaves, and encouraging lateral extension above the 
part it is intended to prune to, so as to stimulate root-action, and pre¬ 
vent the eyes starting from an excess of sap. If required for starting 
early the wood must bo tborougly ripened, admitting a free circula¬ 
tion of air, and if the weather should prove wet and cold gentle fire heat 
will be necessary. 
Scalding. —At this period when scalding occurs we may repeat our 
advice to afford increased night temperature and abundant ventilation 
by day, so as to reduce the atmospheric moisture until the critical 
stage is past. After then fire heat may be economised by closing 
early, so as to admit of the sun raising the temperature to 90° or 95° on 
fine afternoons. 
Regulating Growths. —Keep these so disposed that light and air will 
have access to the foliage equally. Adopt the extension rather than the 
restrictive system where there is room for it wiihout crowding, keeping 
gross laterals stopped so as to cause an equal flow of sap throughout the 
Vines. Avoid large reductions of foliage at a time, it only tends to check 
root-action, and has an evil effect on the fruit, very often resulting in 
canker and other ills. 
Grapes Ripening. —Houses in which the Grapes are ripening should 
have a free circulation of air constantly, less of course at night than 
during the day, and pr vide less moisture in the atmosphere. A minimum 
temperature of 70° to 75° will be necessary for Muscats, and 5° less for 
other varieties, air being given freely whenever the weather admits. 
Late Grapes. —The bunches must have a final examination, removing 
all the small seedless berries, and thinning where likely to he too crowded, 
and small berries and lack of symmetry are great defects, often spoiling 
the appearance of an otherwise fine bunch. Allow a liberal extension of 
the laterals, but permit no more foliage to form than can have full exposure 
to light. 
Watering. —Vines with the Grapes swelling will require water fre¬ 
quently, inside borders not more distantly than once a fortnight, and 
where they are somewhat restricted and well drained it may be given once 
a week, as it is scarcely possible to overwater Vines in full growth, pro¬ 
vided they are in well-drained borders of porous material and are not too 
luxuriant in growth. Outside borders will scarcely require any water as 
yet, hut they must not be allowed to get too dry, or the roots will descend 
in quest of moisture, and so be seeking it at the drainage when it should 
be provided for them at the surface. 
Feeding. —Besides water it will be necessary to give a stimulant of 
some kind, especially where the crops are heavy, than which nothing 
answers better than the liquid from manure tanks, the drainings of 
stables, manure heaps, &c. This diluted when too strong with tepid: 
water will make a wonderful difference in the size of the Grapes, and we 
may mention sulphate of ammonia as a capital stimulant for weakly 
Vines, applying it at the rate of 1 lb. to 30 gallons of water. Guano is 
also good, 1 lb. to 20 gallons of water. The best mulch is fresh horse 
droppings scattered rather thinly, and renewed from time to time, 
especially for inside borders, on account of the ammonia supplied to the 
atmosphere. Care should be taken not to give an overdose, as it is highly 
inimical to the foliage when powerful. A slight sprinkling once a week is 
sufficient. 
Cucumbers. —Pot the seedlings for autumn fruiting as they become 
ready, pinching out the growing point above the second rough leaf of such 
plants as are required for growing in pits, but for trelliswork place a 
small stick to each plant as they advance. Prepare fermenting materials 
to afford bottom heat to plants in pits, and have the structure thoroughly 
cleaned, especially houses, cleansing the woodwork with hot water, soap, 
and a brush, the glass with clear water, and limewash the walls. All old 
soil must be removed, and all made as clean and sweet as possible- 
Nothing answers better than light turfy loam stacked until the grass is 
dead, and if at all strong add an equal quantity of fibrous peat, a tenth 
part of charcoal, and a sixth of old mortar rubbish thoroughly incorporated- 
Although fire heat is not at this time of year necessary, especially in 
bright weather, yet in prolonged dull periods of dull damp weather the 
nights are cold, and the low temperature induces stunted yellow fruits, 
canker at the collar, and mildew oa the foliage. In such weather employ 
gentle fire heat at night, and by day if dull and cold. Sulphur dusted 
freely about the foliage is the best cure for mildew, and against canker 
there is nothing better than quicklime tubbed well into the affected parts 
until dry. Upon a return to bright weather after a dull period shade Irom 
bright Bun, so as to prevent flagging, which if allowed wastes the energies 
of the plants, resulting in ill-shaped stunted fruits, and offers a Btrong in¬ 
ducement to red spider. Keep the growths regularly attended to twice a 
week, and keep up a succession of bearing wood by removing exhausted 
growths and replacing with young fruitful growths. Close early, running 
up to 90° to 100°. 
