August 5, 1886, ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
107 
leaves also and wash the pots clean, so that no more moisture need 
be given after housing than is absolutely required in watering. 
Plants arranged in a clean manner as to leaves and pots have a 
much better appearance than when put away in a dirty state. 
Varieties requiring housing early (September 10th).—Boule 
d’Or, Meg Merrilees, Mabel Ward, Eve, Duchess of Albany, Gran- 
diflora, Golden Dragon, Sarnia, Cherub. 
If a grower fails to get buds at the time he requires of some 
varieties he then takes the next buds : this makes the late bud slow 
in developing, aud he should house the said plants at the early date 
to make up for lost time in “ taking ” the buds. 
Varieties requiring a short time to develops :—Beverley, George 
Rundle, Mrs. Dixon, George Glenny, Mr. Bunn, Prince Alfred, 
Lord Wolseley, Refulgence, Bouquet Fait, Madame Berthie Ren- 
datler, and Elaine. 
ARRANGING THE PLANTS. 
The manner in which the plants are arranged when placed inside 
must depend upon circumstances, such as the means at the command 
of the cultivator and personal taste. Where practicable an effective 
manner of grouping them is much the best, in this way considerable 
pleasure is derived in examining them and comparing varieties. 
Some growers simply place them on the floor of the house in any 
fashion, this is a slovenly manner. No position suits them better 
than vineries or Peach houses after the fruit has been gathered ; 
the leaves about the time the Chrysanthemums are placed under 
cover will he falling, thus admitting more light to the plants. A 
span-roofed greenhouse is a capital place for them, but it is seldom 
that such a house can be devoted to the purpose. Nowhere are 
they more effective than in a large conservatory, where Palms are 
the chief inmates. Some of the tallest plants of Japanese Chrys¬ 
anthemums standing amongst the green foliage of the Palms are 
very effective, but where the convenience is limited to Vine and 
Peach houses the most must be made of the means at command by 
effectively grouping the plants, arranging the colours according to 
taste. A long sloping bank arrangement is the best in such a 
position, both for observation, convenience, and the welfare of the 
plants. With the object of exhibiting as the chief point to consider 
it is wise to place the Japanese varieties in a house by themselves, 
so that more fire heat can be given to them during the time the 
blooms are developing. The flowers are improved, the colours are 
brighter, and the florets come out cleaner and more regularly than 
they do where no fire heat is employed. When all sections are 
arranged together this additional heat cannot be given without 
detriment to others which do not require extra heat. In all cases 
place the plants as near to the glass as possible, so that they may 
have the full benefit of all available light. The colours of each are 
by this means brought out more in their true characters than they 
can be where light is diffused. The flower stems do not either 
become drawn weakly, as they do when the plants are far from the 
glass. The strength of the flower stem is a good indication of what 
is to follow in the shape of large blooms. The plants may be stood 
quite close together. The leaves of one may touch its neighbour, as 
seldom it is that space can be given to each plant to stand clear, 
though it is much more satisfactory where this can be done. When 
arranged in a solid bank the bottom leaves of the inside plants will 
quickly turn yellow and fall, but I do not know that so much harm 
can happen to the plants in consequence, because by the time that 
takes place the bottom leaves of the plants will have carried out 
their functions. The back walls of any cool houses which are bare 
in the winter may be utilised by training some of the tallest plants 
upon them. Often it is difficult to dispose of the very tall-growing 
varieties, but in such a manner it is easily done, and the plants 
always seem to thrive well when so placed. 
AUTUMN TREATMENT UNDER GLASS. 
Under this head the chief details consist of watering the plants 
and ventilating in a proper manner. Feeding the plants should 
continue as previously directed. It is seldom that they will require 
water more than once a day, and not always that. The pots being 
placed closer together air does not pass among them so freely, and 
the sun does not so readily reach them, therefore the soil does not 
dry so quickly as when the plants are outside. A dry atmosphere 
prevents the spread of mildew more than a close damp one. 
Whatever watering is required should be done in the morning, so 
that the paths and floors of the house will have time to become dry 
before night. In damp or foggy weather less air may be admitted, 
and the hot water pipes should be warmed during the day, when 
air can be freely given to prevent the atmosphere becoming stagnant. 
If mildew shows signs of spreading, dust the parts affected with 
sulphur at once. When they are housed ventilate abundantly both 
night and day until the florets are unfolding ; then at that stage it 
is wise to decrease the supply. If any plants are backward in 
growth so much that they cannot be fully in flower at an appointed 
time they should be placed in the warmest part of the house, or, 
what is better, have a house to themselves where special treatment 
can be given to them as is required. The glass in the roof of the 
house should be kept as clean as possible that the plants may receive 
the full benefit of whatever light there is, which is often scarce at 
this season of the year. By constantly removing the dead leaves 
from the plants and keeping all sweet and clean the risks of damping 
among the petals is reduced to aminimum. 
“TIMING” THE BLOOMS. 
Where it is the intention of a cultivator to exhibit cut blooms 
of Chrysanthemums, “ timing ” them is an important matter to 
study, for without considerable forethought it is next to impossible 
to achieve the object in view. “ Timing ” the blooms means having 
all in perfection at any given date. An experienced exhibitor 
knows well it is of no use whatever to have some varieties past 
their best and many others not expanded. What is required is 
that all varieties, or nearly so, should be in full perfection at the 
time appointed, so that a good selection can be made, for indeed it 
is seldom that too many varieties are available. Three weeks pre¬ 
vious to the date which they are required great watchfulness is 
necessary, and very much labour in moving the plants about from 
place to place to hasten or retard others. This requires doing in 
a systematic manner, simple as it appears to be, for without care 
much damage may be done to the tender florets. The best way to 
carry a tall plant when in bloom is this : One person takes the pot 
and a second manages the branches and flowers, which are carried 
in a horizontal manner. The blooms hanging down and being held 
securely, the gentle swinging does not harm them in the least. It 
is difficult laying down any guide as to how long each variety 
requires to reach a certain stage of development; but as a rule the 
large-flowering varieties, such as the Queen family, require from 
a fortnight to three weeks, according to the size of each flower, to 
develope thoroughly after they are, say, one-quarter out. Such 
flowers are very deceptive in appearance. Buds which at opening 
look thin and promise to be only small flowers often develope into 
very fine deep blooms—that is, if the buds were set at the proper 
time ; taking then any of the Queen type in the stage which I have 
named, if the plants are in an ordinary cool house with a little 
fire heat occasionally to dry the air they will not require moving ; 
but if they are more forward, say three parts developed at the 
same date, such plants must be kept quite cool and be shaded from 
bright sun, which is best done by hanging newspapers over them 
during the day. It would not be wise, perhaps, to shade the whole 
house from the outside, as some varieties will require the full sun’s 
rays to develope them in time. When blooms of any sort are 
thought to be backward and it is feared they will not be expanded 
in time, remove the plants at once into a gentle heat where there 
is not much atmospheric moisture, and give such plants an extra 
supply or two of sulphate of ammonia : this forces them into 
bloom quicker than ordinary treatment. It is far better to remove 
such plants into gentle heat in good time, when it is seen that they 
cannot be fully out as needed, than to defer their removal till the 
last few days and then be compelled to place the plants into a 
strong heat in the vain hope of bringing them out, which is next 
to impossible ; even if it were the blooms would suffer in colour, 
particularly the dark varieties. Chrysanthemums being hardy 
plants, it is more natural for the flowers to expand in a cool place 
than in a strong heat. Let all beginners bear this in mind, that 
the colour of each variety, if it is in its proper character, has a 
much better effect than when they are “ washed out,” so to speak, 
by being subjected to undue heat, and that, perhaps, owing to not 
commencing soon enough to assist development. 
As before stated the Japanese varieties, as a rule, take rather 
longer to unfold their florets than do the Incurved and other 
sections ; they are also assisted by giving more fire heat, they 
develope more freely under such conditions. So quaint-looking are 
they that they seem to require a little aid to unravel their peculiar 
florets, and this is best done with the aid of enough fire heat to 
keep the air of the house warm, ventilating night and day.— 
E. Molyneux. 
MADRESFIELD COURT GRAPE CRACKING. 
In reply to “ S. C., West Lynn ,” we have growing here a Vine under 
nearly the same conditions as ilie one he refers to, only it is planted in a 
late house with Mrs. Pince, Lady DowneV, and Black Alicante. Its 
position is the west end, and there are ins de and t uts de borders. I 
treat this variety in the following manner. A< soon as the berries are 
stoned I let the laterals grow without stopping much longer than any of 
the others, which answers two purpo-es—v z., to shield the berries 
from the strong roys of the afternoon sun, which are most felt at that end 
of the house, and also helps to uso up the sap from the bunch; for 
it is my opinion that it is a strong fl )W of sap which causes the berries of 
this Grape to split, the skin being thinner aud of less strength than in 
