120 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDEHER. 
[ Angu t P, 1886. 
a spare piece of ground in the soil yard. A raised bed is made of leaf 
mould and coal ashes, in which the runners root freely, and the plants are 
subsequently transplanted with a large mass of roots and soil. Old beds, 
when the fruit is all gathered, should have all the runners cut off and 
cleared away with any weeds or rubbish ; a dressing of old stable or farm¬ 
yard manure is then dug in among the plants without loss of time, our 
object being to promote a strong growth of roots, foliage, and crowns, and 
thus lay the foundation of a fine crop of fruit next season. Exhausted 
beds should be hoed up at once, and the space turned to account for 
vegetable culture. We may mention that there is no reason why Straw¬ 
berries may not be grown in the same place for an indefinite period if 
the soil is porous, well drained, and has an annual dressing of manure. 
Peaches and Nectarines —The fruit is now swelling fast, the 
crop is a full one, and we take care to give the whole of the border a 
thorough drenching with sewage every week to promote the growth of 
fruit, foliage, and wood. A close watch is kept upon the foliage, and 
syringing with clean water is resorted to to keep down red spider, especial 
care being taken to force the water well among and underneath the 
leaves. Sub-lateral growth is now carefully kept down by judicious 
pinching, but we do not remove foliage which covers fruit till the fruit is 
fully grown, then full exposure to sun and air for a week or two imparts 
both colour and flavour. The fruit of Early Beatrice Peach is exposed 
fully to the sun sooner than that of most other sorts, for we have found 
attention to this matter well repaid by colour so beautiful and flavour so 
excellent as renders this Peach worthy of a place among the best sorts. 
Grown under glass its fruit is insipid and altogether inferior, but from 
the open wall it is quite delicious. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —Preparing Houses for Plants .— Houses as they become 
vacant should be thoroughly cleansed before being re-occupied with 
plants. The first thing to be seen to is the bed. If the bottom heat is 
furnished by hot-water pipes there will still be the plunging material, and 
if tan or leaves be employed for bottom heat they should be removed, or 
part of them, at least once a year, for predatory vermin, particularly 
woodlice, incease rapidly, and are a source of much annoyance. Some¬ 
times tan with hot-water pipes beneath is provided for bottom heat. In 
any case everything should be placed into thorough order. Brush brick¬ 
work with hot lime, the wood aud iron work with soap and water, keeping 
the soapy water as much as possible from the glass, which ought to be 
cleansed with water only. Any necessary repairs should be eff cted, and 
the wood and iron work painted. Beds that are chambered— ie., the 
hot-water pipes covered with slates or other material, are much in advance 
of those surrouuded and passing through rubble. The beds composed of 
the latter must be turned over, and any dirt or small parts removed to 
allow the heat given off by the pipes to penetrate the whole and diffuse 
uniform temperature to the bed. New material will be required for beds. 
Provide fresh tan, of which 3 feet in depth is ample, where there are 
pipes placed beneath. If wet turn it a few times, especially on fine 
sunny days. 
Potting Rooted Suclters .—Plants started as suckers in June will soon 
have filled the pots with roots, and should be shifted into larger pots 
before the roots become very closely matted. Queens should have 9 and 
10-inch pots, and varieties of stronger growth 11-inch pots. There is no 
belter comp >st than rather strong turfy loam stacked long enough to 
destroy vegetation. This, torn with the hand, and a quart of soot added 
to each bushel of compost, will grow Pines exceeding well. Pot firmly, 
and keep the plants well down. Supply water immediately after potting, 
and plunge in a bed having a temperature of 90° to 95° at the base of 
the pots. Allow the plants plenty of room, there not being a greater 
mistake in Pine-growing than crowding young plants. The plants, when 
crowded, become drawn and weakly instead of being sturdy. 
Re arranged Plants .—Look to the bottom heat of beds that have 
been recently upset by the removal of plants, not allowing the he it to 
exceed 95° at the base of the pots without immediately raising them, 
as too much bottom heat will disastrously effect plants with fruit, or those 
having the pots filled with roots. Water the plants about twice a week, 
and maintain a moist, genial, well-ventilated atmosphere. The weather 
is now so favo rable that Pine plants grow luxuriantly, therefore dis¬ 
continue auy shading such as may have been employed for an hour or two 
at mid-day when the sun was powerful through the months of May, June, 
and July, the plants after this having the benefit of every ray of light, 
admitting air plentifully when the temperature reaches 85°, but not to 
lower if, but keep it between 85° and 95°, affording fruiting plants a 
night temperature of 70° to 75°, and succession 65° to 70°. Reserve, 
if possible, suckers on the stools for starting at the commencement of 
September. 
Cucumbers. —Any frames at liberty may yet be filled with young 
plants upon a bed of fermenting materials, which will give a supply of 
fruit in September, and continue it to near Christmas if due regard be 
paid to lining the bed and to protecting the plants by mats over the lights 
in cold weather. Let plants in frames or bouses be cut regularly once 
or twice a week, removing exhausted growths to make room for young 
bearing shoots. Keep the shoots stopped to one joint beyond the fruit, 
or, if the plants are vigorous and showing no signs of exhaustion, stop at 
the fruit. Enfeebled plants must have the young growth encouraged, 
lightly cropped, and a‘sist root-action by a surface dressing of fresh loam 
and a mulcting of short manure. Afford liquid manure twice a week to 
plants carry ng full crops, and water as necessary, being guided by the 
state of the soil, over-watering making the soil sodden and soar, 
and too little causing a stunted growth. SyriDge in the af'ernoon of 
bright days, and close early, but avoid late syringing, having the foliage 
fairly dry before sunset, and commence ventilating early in the morning, 
keeping through the day at 85° to 95°, 75° by artificial means, and 65° to 
70° at night. Preparation must be made for getting out the autumn 
fruiters without delay. 
Strawberries for Forcing. —The plants will by this time have 
been rooted in small pot=. or layered in the large pots, both systems 
having their advocates. If layered in small pots they should be trans¬ 
ferred into the larger sizes as soon as they become well rooted, 5-in-h 
being most suitable for early forcing, aud 6-ineh for midseasou and late 
work. Good turfy loam with a fifth of well-decayed manure and a quart 
of soot, or any of the advertised fertilisers, to each bushel of compost, 
will grow them well. Drain efficiently, and pot firmly. Stand them on a 
base impervious to worms, and keep them duly supplied with water, 
removing all runners. Tney should have an open situation, but if 
possible, sheltered from winds. Good for early forcing are La Grosse 
Sucrde and Yicomtesse Hericart de Thury ; for mid“eason, Sir Harry, 
B ithwell Bank Prolific, and President; for late, Sir Charles Napier and 
Dr. Hogg. 
Vines. — Late Grapes. —To insure these keeping well the Vines need 
to be started early and thoroughly ripened. The Grapes in houses started 
in February will now be colouring. Good Colman and Gros Guillaume 
take a longer time t > ripen than most others, and they should have a house 
to themselves, where they can be given plenty of heat and abundant 
supplies of water. Muscats and Lady Downe’s cannot stand the direct 
ravs of the sun through large panes of glass, but there is a considerable 
difference in their requirements—viz,, Muscats must have plenty of light 
to give them the golden colour that denotes high finish ; Lady Downe’s 
finishes well under foliage ; inde d, black Grapes colour in proportion to 
the foliage, but white Grapes appear to require more light and the shoots 
thinner. A night temperature of 70° should be maintained, with a little 
ventilation at the upper part of the house, and very free ventilation by day 
until all danger from scalding is past. When the colouring commences 
fire hea' will be nece c sary to induce a minimum temperature of 70?, aud 85 & 
in the daytime, with moderate ventilation at night and in dull weather, so as 
to secure a circulation of rather dry warm air, proportionately increased 
on fine days. The roots must not be neglected in the supply of water, 
but if they have been too dry during the swelling period an excess of 
water will only accelerate shanking—indeed, neglect of water in swelling 
and mulching, so as to keep the roots active near the surface, are prolific 
of disaster, as Vines carrying heavy crops afford a plentiful hardest of 
shanked berries. Let the borders in-ide and out have a good soaking with 
liquid manure in a tepid state, or water as may be considered advisable, 
for the roots will require a good supply of nutriment for some time yet. 
Regulating Growths. —Although we advise the extension system in 
preference to the restrictive, it is not desirable to allow the laterals to be 
crowded before pinching them, as it gives a severe check, large reductions 
of foliage at a time often resulting in shanking through loss of roots ; 
therefore keep the laterals well in hand, and do Dot allow more foliage to 
be made than can have exposure to light to elaborate the sap and feed 
the buds at their ba«e. 
Young Vines. —Keep these in full growth by maintaining a moist 
atmosphere, and encourage all the growth practicable, subject to the part 
that is to be retained for next year’s fruiting having the principal leaves 
fully exposed to light, the laterals being stepped, so as to con -entrate the 
force of the Vines in the buds that will be reserved for fruiting next 
season. Supernumeraries should have the laterals stopped to about 
8 feet up the canes, above which lateral extension may be allowed. Close 
early with plenty of sun heat, a id keep the surface of the border moist 
and mulched, so as to keep the roots active near the surface. 
Ripe Grapes. —In order t > preserve black Grapes at this season as 
long as possible it it essential that the Vines have good f liage, so as to 
prevent the sun taking the colout out of them, or if the foliage be thin a 
slight shading will be necessary. Examine the bunches occasionally for 
shanked or decayed berries, and keep the house cool, well ventilated, and 
moderately dry, slight moisture not being injurious to the Grapes. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Hybrid Perpetual Roses.— All plants intended for early forcing next 
season may with safety be repotted. Young planis pot'ed last au umn 
in 7 and 8-inch pots may be transferred into others 2 and 3 inches larger. 
The drainage from these need only be removed, and loose soil from the 
surface of the ball unless the soil is sour or has become saturated. If in 
this state shake the whole from the ro its, and return the plants to the 
same size pots in which 'hey have been growing. Plants in 10-inch 
pots should have their roots reduced about one-third, and then be returned 
into the same size pols, or smaller, according to their condition. It the 
stock upon which the youngest plants are worked was not completely 
buried when they were first potted, they should be placed as low tu their 
pots as possible. The soil should be pressed firmly roun i the roots. 
Before potting be careful that the roo's of the plants are in an intermediate 
state for moisture. These varieties do well in fibry loam, one-seventh of 
decayed manure, one 6-ineh potful of bonemeal, and the same quanti y of 
soot to each barrowful of sni 1 . If the loam is light, dry some clay, and 
then reduce it to powder, and add one-seventh to the loam bef re the 
other ingredients are incorporated. Alter potting plunge the pots and 
ccver the surface of the soil to prevent, evaporation. If this is done, and 
the plants liberally syringed twice daily during dry weather, they will 
need no water at their roots. The roots will have filled the pots before 
it becomes necessary to place them under cover in autumn. 
Tea Varieties. —Tnose that ere planted out under gla^s, and icteade 
