1 16 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE HARDER ER. 
[ i ngost 12, If}-6. 
Agricultural Society’s silver medal. — W. M’Nally. 2, R. M'Nally. 3 
S. Roberts, Dumfries. Two Supers above 20 lbs.—1, J. Townsley, Dum¬ 
fries. 2, R. Anderson, Stevenston. 3, J. Anderson, Dairy. Super above 
12 lbs. and under 20.—1, J. Smith, Dumfries. 2, Annie Anderson, Dairy. 
3, Jas. Anderson, Dairy. Super of Honey not being sectional Supers. 
The Super to be of wood, straw, or of wood in combination with glass or 
straw.—1, W. M'Nally. 2, W. Templeton. 3, J. Briggs, Laurieknowe, 
Maxwelltown. Twelve 6-lb. sections of Comb Honey — R. M'Nally. 
Twenty-four 1-lb. sections of Comb Honey.—1, S. Roebuck, Dumfries. 2, 
J. Townsley. 3, Rev. F. Taylor, Cumberland. Twelve 2-lb. sections of 
Comb Honey.—1 (no name). 2, W. H. M'Donald, Kirkcowan. 3, Rev. F. 
Taylor. Twelve 1-lb. sections of Comb Honey.—1, S. Roebuck, Dumfries. 
2, Rev. F. Taylor. 3, W. H. M'Donald. Run or extracted Honey, in twelve 
1-lb. glass jars.—1, S. Roebuck. 2, J. Templeton. 3, R. M’Nally. Heather 
Honey, in Comb or otherwise.—1 and 2, E. M'Nally, Rutherglen. 3, R. 
M'Nally. Best design in Pure Honeyoomb worked by Bees.— 1, W. 
M'Nally. 2, R. M'Nally. 
Special Prizes for Ladies. —Super above 10 lbs. and under 20 lbs.— 
1, Mrs. S. Roebuck. 2, Miss Fraser. 3, Mrs. R. M'Nally. Glass Super 
of Honeycomb.— 1, Miss Anderson, Stevenston. 2, Miss Templeton. 
Twelve 2-lb. sections of Honeycomb—Mrs. S. Roebuck. Run or extracted 
Honey in glass jars, not less than 12 lbs.—1, Mrs. Townsley, Dumfries. 
2, Mrs. E. M'Nally. 3, Mrs. Roebuck. 
Comestibles. — Cake made with Honey. — 1, R. M'Nally. 2, J. D. 
M'Nally, Glasgow. 3, E. M'Nally. Collection of different articles made 
from Honey as Food and Liqueurs—R. M'Nally. 
Miscellaneous. — Collection of Hives, Bee Furniture, Bee Gear, for 
general use.—1, W. M’Nally. 2, R. Steel. Honey Extracter.—1 and 3, 
W. Young, Perth. 2, W. M'Nally. Extractor, or Press, for Heather Honey. 
—2, R. M’Nally (one entry). Best and most interesting collection of 
Natural Objects, Models, or Diagrams connected with Apiculture, and 
illustrating the Natural History and Economy of the Honey Bee.—1 and 2, 
E. M'Nally. Best and largest display of Honey-producing Plants, stating 
particulars calculated to be of interest to bee-keepers.—1, E. M’Nally. 2, 
H. Dobbie, Norwich. 3, Miss Nicholson, Glenluce. 
Special Prizes. —Model Apiary—Lanarkshire Hive (given by Mr. Wm. 
M'Nally)—E. M’Nally. Bar-frame Hive (by Mr. Ebenezer M'Nally, Ruther- 
f len)—R. M'Nally. Straw Hive stocked with Bees—1, 2, and 3, James 
ohnstone, Slirling. 
It is perhaps a fitting time at the present to say something about the 
honey presser for heather honey. There are as yet few who thoroughly 
understand how to manage heather honey, and have given their experience 
in writing how it should be done and what the machine for that purpose 
should be like. As yet the only machine fit for the purpose in the market 
is the Lanarkshire Presser. Bat to bring out the best possible machine at 
the cheapest rate suitable for its work and the pockets of the bee-keeping 
fraternity, Mr. Bennett, with his usual liberality, has purchased a combined 
machine and placed it in the hands of a competent person to improve, so that 
it will press honey in addition to the other work it does at present. When 
completed I expect it will not cost more than 10s. for the small- st size, and 
large ones at less than £1, which the Society will supply to all who wish 
them at little more than cost price.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Waite, Nash & Co., 79, Southwark Street, London, S.E .—Wholesale 
Catalogue of Flower Boots for 1886. 
W. Cutbush & Son, Highgate, and Barnet, Herts .—Catalogue of Bulbs for 
1886. 
*,* All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
UNANSWERED LETTERS.—We find it necessary to state that letters 
to which replies are expected in this Journal should be addressed to 
the “Editor of the JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE,” and in NO 
OTHER WAY, to insure attention. 
Books (W■ C.). —The price of the “ Garden Manual” is Is. 9d., “ Green¬ 
house Manual” 10d., “Primroses and Cowslips” 6£d., all post free. The 
other work you mention is out of print. 
Matricaria inodora fl.-pl. (Argus). —Yes, this plant is perennial in most 
situations, and sometimes increases to a rather troublesome extent. 
Sugar Refuse ( G. C. <J Son ).—No doubt it contains manurial properties. 
The only way we can suggest of finding a market for it is by advertising. 
Covering the Back Wall of a Conservatory (M. D .).—The Rhyncho- 
spermum jasminoides would answer for planting in the recess, hut it will be | 
a long time in covering a wall 14 feet high, and certainly is not sufficient 
for so large a space. If you want flowering plants the Habrothamnuses are 
excellent for the purpose, especially fasciculatus, and Ce.-trum auran’iacum. 
They would thrive well in boxes. Lapagerias rosea and alba would also 
succeed. 
Valves on Hot-water Pipes (W. Hosier ).—We do not see anything 
wrong with the position of the valves. They are, we presume, iutended to 
shut off the heat from the vinery or regulate it as required, and in that case 
are in the proper place. You do not want the water to flow and return to 
the boiler when heat is not wanted in the vinery. You have a connecting 
piece, which leads to the conclusion that you want heat up to that point, 
and for which we see no necessity; therefore we should leave the valves 
where they are. There is a flow and return to the Cucumber house, so that 
you can heat both separately or together. 
Eucalyptus ( Mrs. Saunders).—' The Eucalyptus would be best cut down, 
but it is late for the operation. It would have been best to have cut it down 
in spring, and have kept the roots rather dry until it had pushed afresh, 
when water could have been given more freely. It will be best to defer the 
operation now until next year. It does not require a large quantity of 
water, only giving it when the soil becomes dry, but before the leaves flag, 
and then a thorough supply, repeating when occasion tequires. It would 
be preferable to raise young plants from seed sown next March in a hotbed, 
which if well grown make good plants the same season. 
Vine Leaves Scorched (Ignorant). —It is curious you should ignore our 
request as to addressing letters. We do not think your Vines are attacked 
with the Oidium, nor could we find any tfcrips on the leaves, but there are 
signs of the attacks of those insects which eat the cuticle of both the 
berries and stems, and the parts so ‘ nibbled ” turn black. The insects you 
have seen are no doubt yellow thrips, and though they may he destroyed by 
fumigation, this does not destroy the eggs. You had better examine the 
Vines carefully and apply a sponge saturated with a solution of soft9oap 
and tobacco water to all the parts (except the berries) on which there is a 
faint suspicion of the presence of insects. We do not consider your Vines 
in “ perfect strength.” The leaves are too soft, lacking substance as if 
grown in a needlessly high night temperature, and the roots of the Vines 
in a somewhat loose and unduly rich border. A firmer rooting medium and 
a good dressing of lime would probably be beneficial. It is better to shade 
very lightly than allow the leaves to be scorched. The leaves before us are 
very different from the foliage of Vines that are in first-class condition. 
Mildew on Onions (Onions). —Onions are occasionally attacked with a 
form of mildew peculiar to the crop and it is very destructive. We should 
try the effect of syringing them with a solution of soft-soap and sulphur, 
dissolving the soap at the rate of 2 ozs. to a gallon of water, then heat some 
sulphur into a paste and mix it in the solution till of the consistency of thin 
cream, yet not so thick that it cannot pass readily through the nozzle of a 
syringe. If that does not check the mildew and the tops wither the bulbs 
had better be pulled up, dried, and stored, burning the tops. It will be 
advisable to have your Onion bed in another part of the garden next year. 
Melons—Raspberries—Red Spider—Heating (Kittie). —For ensuring a 
regular set and good crop of Melons the flowers should be artificially 
fertilised; bees are not to be trusted to do what you desire. Ra9pbt rries 
grow and fruit admirably in good soil on borders having a north aspect in 
the southern and midland counties. If you syringe your Peach trees very 
forcibly just before the fruit changes the red spider will do little injury if 
the work is done well; the water must of course be directed to the under 
sides of the leaves. Amateurs as a rule use the syringe very ineffectively 
and as if they were afraid of disturbing the insects on their trees. The 
method of arranging the pipes under the roof of your low pit, one pipe 
along the front and the other half way up, is good for wintering Pelar¬ 
goniums. Our reply is founded ou experience. 
Mushrooms (Amateur). —The manure Bhould be collected fresh from the 
stables and only the long, clean litter forked out, the remainder consisting of 
droppings and short stained straw shaken together and thrown in a heap to 
ferment. In reply to your inquiry on the point, the fourth edition of 
“ Mushrooms for the Million,” with supplement, is now re idy and can be had 
post free from this office for Is. 2d. You will, perhaps, find all the informa¬ 
tion you need in the work, as the supplement is devoted to the solution of 
difficulties that have been experienced by amateurs. The present is the 
exact time for collecting materials for outdoor Mushroom beds. 
Chrysanthemums (E. W .).—You had better take the crown buds as 
soon as they form by removing with great care the surrounding growths ; 
but if the slightest injury is done to the buds it will show itself more and 
more as the buds swell, and the bloom will be imperfect. All the axillary 
growths should be removed from the stems of the plants, and suckers from 
the roots. 
Carnation—Gaillardia—Chrysanthemums (S. L. B.). —If your Pride 
of Penshurst Carnation is not spindling for bloom we should layer all the 
growths at once, tongueing and pegging them into light sandy soil, and 
this being kept moist you would soon have a healthy stock of young plants 
for potting. These, with good management, would be certain to flower 
freely next year, either in pots or planted out as you may prefer. This will 
be a much better plan than taking up the old plant. Gaillardia cuttings 
st;ike freely in pots of -sandy soil kept moist, close, and shaded, to prevent 
the leaves flagging. A frame is a suitable position for them, and the 
present a good time for insertion. The cuttings should he made of crisp 
portions of young shoots, those very soft or hard not striking freely, and 
flower buds must be picked off. Perhaps more money was made by cut 
blooms of Madame Desgrange last year iu London than of any other early 
Chrysanthemum, the buds being thinned in good, time for the development 
of fine flowers. 
Young Growths of Peach Trees Dying (H. S.). —The growths are 
weak, long-jointed, and soft, so much so that the bark is liable to injury 
from moisture and sun. Moisture from syringing lodging on the shoots 
decomposes the tissue or epidermis, and sun acting powerfully upon them 
whilst wet or even dry after a dull period causes the parts exposed to its 
influence to decay. Such growths as your trees exhibit are very unsatis¬ 
factory. They form fruit buds late in the season, and are scantily furnished 
with them. The shoots sent are devoid of fruit buds forming, and this in a 
cool house in August! The cause is roots in a cold wet soil. It may b • too 
rich and loose. We should early in October take a trench out one-third the 
