September 16, 1886, ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
253 
to all engaged in fruit culture against walls, as it keeps the fruit tree 
roots under control, so that the trees can be fed by watering and mulchmg 
without interfering with the vegetable crops, and vice versa. 
As regards the trees, we may best convey our meaning by commencing 
with a maiden tree. This is headed at 9 inches from the ground, or not 
nearer than 6 inches, it being essential that the tree have a stem of that 
length. This will give rise to side growths ; two of the best of these 
are selected, and as nearly on a level as possible, and taken to the right 
and left t f the stem respectively, with a curve upwards. All other buds 
are rubbed off after the two main shoots are secured. The point is to get 
the shoots of as near equal vigour as possible, which may be effected by 
depressing that taking the lead. Laterals should be pinched at the 
first joint, and to every succeeding one afterwards as it is made. In 
the autumn, after heading, we have two strong shoots, and if they do 
not ripen kindly, cut the roots by passing a spade down 18 inches from 
the stem all round. This may be done at the close of September, and in 
November we plant it against the wall with others 5 feet apart, the end 
tree, of course, 2 feet 6 inches from the end of the wall. The growths 
are loosely secured to the wall. In February, the weather being mild, 
the shoots are brought down and secured to the wall, so that we get 
2 feet 6 inches between the two branches, which are taken upright, and 
headed so as to get a strong shoot from each, as well as a side growth 
above the bend ; the bar across the shoots at Din the tree A shows what is 
intended. 
The heading will give rise to several shoots. One is trained upright 
from each main as a leader, and three on each branch are retained as 
bearing shoots for next year, shown at E, and all other shoots are rubbed 
growths being trained 9 inches apart, on the same principle as Peach trees „ 
the fruit being taken on last year’s wood as in Peaches, and another 
secured in the current to supplant that fruiting, giving fruit in the fol¬ 
lowing. It is the best way of all in training Morello Cherries ; in fact, 
I think the sooner we make a departure from our present system of 
growing choice fruit on spurs the better. It is clear we have all the 
finest fruit on the young wood. 
In the case of Plums annual shoots would not answer, or only with a 
few kinds, but I see no reason why the “ U ” system of training should 
not be applicable to Plums, Pears, and Apples, originating the side shoots 
as in the case of Peaches, the current year’s growth would be thoroughly 
solidified, the next season it would form spurs its full length except at 
the base. We could take a shoot from that point and train it in, and the 
following year another shoot from it, so that we should have a shoot of 
the current year to stimulate root-action, another shoot forming spurs or 
fruit buds, and a shoot carrying an ahundance of the finest fruit, because 
borne by the best shoots ; and it could be cut away after fruiting, and the 
shoot a year younger would tike its place bristling with fruit buds. It is- 
the only way to allow of the extension system being practised in limited 
space and to keep up a succession of young fruitful growths. In fact, 
instead of cutting away heaps of breastwood, it would be much better to 
cut away the branches that are masses of elongated barren spurs, and 
train shoots in their place, which in the third year at farthest will give 
fruit equal to any that the tree ever produced. The tree3 become 
rejuvenated by the fresh growth, no matter how old, and is a practice, 
whether it be effected by grafting or the encouraging of young shoots, 
vastly superior in results to keeping the shoots closely pinched. The way 
Fig. 36. 
off, or they may be pinched at two leaves, and to one afterwards, which 
causes them to form spurs. The side shoots ate stopped at 15 to 18 
inches length, if they are likely to much exceed that length, and the 
laterals pinched at the first joint, and to one afterwards. The upright 
shoots F are not stopped, only the laterals are pinched, and they are cut 
back to the bar G, or about 3 feet from their origin. 
In the following year we have the bearing s u ots E of the previous 
year’s formation, and we take a shoot from the base of each, as shown by 
the dotted lineq and these t ke the placr of those now fruiting for next 
year’s crop. On the uprights we take shoots at every foot distance, and 
get five on each at H. These are trained at an angle of 15° with the 
uprights. We also get the continuation of the uprights of the tree B — 
V.Z., J, which are cut back to the bars K in early spring. The bearing 
shoots E have a growth retained on a level with or above the fruit, and it 
is kept pinched to three, and afterwards to a joint of growth, and after 
the fruit is gathered these are cut out, and those shown by the dotted 
lines take their place. 
C shows the trees advanced a stage, the routine being the same as in 
b, only extended ; D shows the trees a year more advanced, and the 
complete tree is shown in E. The dotted lines in all cases show the current 
year’s growth, and the other the bearing wood. The trees are shown 
5 feet apart, the uprights 2 feet 6 inches asunder, and the shoots 12 inches 
apart. This is not too much space to allow of all the growths being 
properly exposed to light and air. 
In addition to Peaches and Nectarines, to which the “ U ” system 
appears espscially applicable, Morello Cherries are amenable, the side 
to have fruit is to get fresh wood and keep it. It is Nature’s plan, and 
never fails.—G. Abbey. 
A SEPTEMBER CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOW. 
The first public Exhibition of Chrysanthemums in September was held 
in the Westminster Aquarium on the 9th and 10th inst., under the auspices 
of the National Chrysanthemum Society. ThiB was not, however, the first 
Chrysanthemum Show of 1886, for a very good one was held in January. 
We have seen blooms of Chrysanthemums during every month of the year, 
but what may be termed the “ out of season ” examples bear no comparison 
in intrinsic merit with the magnificent specimens of the great Chrysanthe¬ 
mum month—November; still varieties that flower freely, and so to say in 
a “ natural ” manner, both before and after the orthodox period, are undoubt¬ 
edly valuable for decorative purposes. At the Show in question th“re was 
no lack of “ naturally ” early and profuse bloomers, which are suitable alike 
for border and pot culture; but there were stands of blooms of large- 
flowering varieties for which prizes were awarded that do not come under 
that category, for they were from early buds of naturally later-flowering 
sorts, and the great majority of the blooms consequently inferior examples 
of the same varieties as seen fully developed at a more seasonable time. We 
are not suggesting that the Judges erred in their awards in respect to these 
blooms, they had no option but to grant them ; nevertheless, and this is 
the point and gist of the matter, if the vast majority of gardeners and Chrys¬ 
anthemum-loving amateurs who cannot visit early shows, simply order 
those varieties that are named as being arranged in the winning stands, 
under the impression that the plants will bloom as freely in September as 
