Sap'emcer 16, 1386. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
259 
is where it cannot be had in sufficient quantity to keep itself clear. 
Muddy impure water is at all times objectionable, but it is questionable 
whether the plan of removing and destroying everything of a vegetable 
kind that exists in water is good; on the contrary, stagnant water is 
rendered more pure by the vegetation'which is supported by it. Many a 
pond in an undisturbed corner is entirely covered over with duckweed, 
presenting a pale green surface completely hiding the water, and yet no 
hurtful effluvia arise. Nature in this case, as in many others when she 
is not hindered by officious hands, provides the antidote as well as the 
poison ; and it is not until the ditch, pond, or watercourse is disturbed 
that any noxious vapours are diffused. A rank coarse herbage of other 
plants often accomplishes the same object, the rankness and vigour being 
in proportion with the quantity and quality of the food ; so that our 
country friends living near stagnant pools have less canse to be alarmed 
in summer than they may expect. The vapours arising from wet, marshy, 
undrained land are quite different. The more exposed sheets of water 
are to the action of the wind the purer and better they will be, the moving 
mass being less likely to pass into a state of impurity than when it is less 
agitated. In many places of note the most impor'ant feature is water, 
and in some tbe duties water is made to perform differ in reality but little 
from those of the modern flower bed. 
Water may be considered scarcely less necessary than trees and shrubt 
in a complete place, and I advise all who can command its services to do 
so.—N. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Koot-pruning —Apple, Pear, and Plum tree3 having a vigorous 
wood growth but no fruit, and which are practically barren, should now 
have all or part of the roots pruned to check such wasteful growth and to 
induce a free formation r f fruit buds. All the leading roots of young 
trees may be pruned, but old trees with very big roots should have only 
half the roots pruned this autumn, and the other half next autumn, in 
order to avoid the ritk of killing the trees, which there certainly would 
be if all tbe roots were severed. The size and age of each tree must 
therefore be our guide to its particular treatment. The distance from the 
stem at which we should sever the roots is from 2 to 6 feet. A circle being 
described around the stem at a distance proportionate to its size, a trench 
is opened outside the circle and half way round it, downwards in the soil 
till a point is reached immediately beneath the stem itself. The trench 
is only made wide enough to enable the workman to get at the roots. 
When they are cut the trench is refilled with turfy loam, and the other 
half of tbe circle is done if the tree is a young one. A3 each tree is done 
it is at once made fast with stout tarred string and pegs driven securely 
into the ground to avoid all risk of the tree being loosened in the soil by 
wind; a band of some soft substance, such as old sacking, garden mat, or 
hay, is first put carefully round the stem to prevent injury from string or 
wire. Particular attention is given to prevention of injury to the bark of 
the tree in the manner indicated, and in occasional but regular subsequent 
examinations of all supports and fastenings. Not lightly or hastily should 
root-pruning be decided upon. Barrenness in young trees is almost 
always owing to rampant growth, but in old trees it may either be caused 
by the roots having gone down into a cold wet subsoil, or to hard tissue 
and sluggish sap action in the branches. In the latter case it answers 
best to leave the roots alone, and instead of turning to root-pruning as our 
remedy, to shorten the branches sufficiently to get rid of all the parts 
that should have borne fruit, and to regraft, not tbe stem but each arm of 
every branch. The effect of this process is remarkable, for the tree is 
soon clothed with a fine head of frn Pul though vigorous growth. 
Mention is made of the grafting as an important specific for barrenness 
now, because it ought to influence our decision about tbe treatment of 
barren trees. By barrenness we do not mean the accident of a season, 
but a chronic condition, which an examination of the branches shows to 
us. If we find wood buds only upon the branches we know that we can 
expect no fruit, and the tree requires special treatment to bring it into a 
fruitful condition as speedily as possible. A fruit grower should live 
among his trees and should make their condition his special study, 
especially during the season of growth, in order that he may know what 
shou’d be done to them in autumn and winter. 
Preparations for Planting. —Early planting is sure planting, 
and we would urge upon our readers the great importance of making 
ready for this work to be done in October or as early as possible in 
November. Tbe trees are then nicely established in the soil before 
winter sets in, some root growth is made, and we are able to render an 
early strong spring growth a certainty. Do not be satisfied with any¬ 
thing short i f this. There can be no worse practice than the late planting 
which is almost invariably followed by a season of stagnation. This note 
of warning must suffice this week, but we hope to give detailed directions 
for the preparation of stations, and for the entire process of autumnal 
fruit tiee planting. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Cucumbers.— The Autumn Fruiters.— Give every attention to these, 
affording copious suppltes of tepid liquid manure ; remove superfluous 
laterals so as to guard against an overcrowded growth, take off male 
bloss ims and tendrils, avoiding overcropping, and do not allow the fruit 
to hang on the plants after it becomes fit for use. Maintain a genial 
atmosphere by damping available surfaces other than the plants in the 
morning, afternoon, and evening ; but the plants may be syringed in the 
afternoon of bright days. Pinch out the points of the shoots one or two 
joints beyond the show of fruit, looking over the plants twice a week for 
that pumose, and retain no more foliage than can be fully exposed to 
light. Earth up the ro its as the plants advance in growth, only just 
covering up the roots each time of their showing at the sides of the 
hillocks or ridges, the soil being placed in the house some t un previously 
to be warmed before use. All waterings should be of the sams tempera¬ 
ture as the house. 
Winter Fruiters. —Pot off or shift into large pots, plunging in a 
bottom heat of 80° or 90° until the plants are established, then raise 
them near the glass, maint lining a temperature of 70° at night, 75° by 
day, with an advance from sun heat of 10° to 15°. The fermenting 
materials, if such are used for bottom heat, must be in preparation, 
throwiag into a heap, applying water and turning the heap over t > iuduce 
fermentation and dissipate noxious gases before making up the beds. 
For producing fruit in February, plants not being raised previously, a 
sowing may be made at the beginning of next month ; but they will not 
be necessary where there are other plants. 
In pits and frames the temperature must be maintained by renovating 
the linings as necessary, and night coverings applied to prevent too great 
diminution of temperature. Give water very carefully, aud spriukle the 
plants only on bright days. Keep the foliage thin by removing bad 
leaves and exhausted growths, aud close early with as much suu heat a3 
possible. 
Young Vines. —These must hive every encouragement in keeping 
the foliage clem, removing all laterals, a3 growth produced after the date 
is of no value, and maintain a warm well ventilated atmosphere until the 
canes are ripe. The ripening of the wool may be accelerated by keeping 
the house rather close in the day, so as to get a temperature of 85° to 90° 
from sun he it, opening the ventilators at night. Any supernumeraries 
intended to fruit noxt season should have the laterals cut away to the 
principal buds, leaving, however, an outlet for any excess of sap by a few 
laterals at the top of the cane, an 1 be carefnl not to injure the principal 
leaves. 
Late, Houses. —Muscats and other late Grapes still require fire heat, as 
they are late this season, accompanied with a free circulation of air, con¬ 
tinuing it until they are thoroughly finishei. Muscats should have the 
foliage rather thin, indeed the leaves may be tied aside, as it is necessary 
the fruit have abundance of light and air, so e sential for thorough ripening 
and putting on the amber colour so characteristic of good quality and 
finish. The night temperature should be kept at 65° to 70° wuh a fall of 
5° through the night, and the heat should be turned on in go id time in 
the morning so as to allow of an increase of ventilation, aud the tem¬ 
perature be raised to 70° to 75° so as to insure to 'he Grapes a long 
ripening day, the temperature being kept at 80° to 85° from sun and with 
a free circulation of air 90° to 95°. The heat should be kept up by 
reducing the ventilation w.th the declining sun, and the temperature 
allowed to gradually decline at night, only keeping warmth in the pipes 
to allow the top and bottom ventilators to be left open to a slight extent 
so as to insure a circulation of air and prevent the deposition of moisture 
on the berries during the night. This should be continued until the 
Grapes are thoroughly ripe and finished, when a graiuil reduction of 
temperature must take place, otherwise the fruit will shrivel ; this must 
further be guarded against by not allowing the bord -r, especially inside, 
to become dry. If there is any fear of this a good watering should be 
given on a fine morning when air can be freely given, and the border 
should be covered with dry material to keep down moisture. A temperature 
of 50° to 55° is necessary for the keeping of Muscats in go d condition 
after they are rip q and other houses of late thick-skinned varieties will 
require a similar temperature some time longer, or after they are finished, 
for the benefit of the Vines, and that the conditioning quality s > essential 
to use, especially in such varieties as Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, &c., 
may be effected. 
Late Houses of Hamburgks .—The Grapss will be well advanced in 
colour and ripening. A gentle warmth in the pipes is necessary, so as to 
admit of a free circulation of air, and to maintain the night temperature 
at 60° to 65°. A little artificial heat during the day will also be of benefit 
in allowing of free ventilation and making the most of suu heat. 
Hamburghs colour and finish best beneath a good spread of foliage, but it 
is well not to encourage lateral growth now, at tbe same time the tendency 
to shank ng is accelerated by large reductions of foliage, and equally so 
by sudden fluctuations of temperature. A little air should be left on top 
and bottom until the Grapes are ripe. If there is any d fi -iency of 
moisture in the borders it will be better to give a supply now than put it 
off until a later period, covering with some dry material so as to prevent 
damp rising. Outside borders will in most instances be sufficiently moist, 
if not they must be watered, and unless the weather set in wet they need 
not be covered at present, but light shutters or tarpaulin should be in 
readiness for placing over them, so as to throw off heavy rains. 
Early -forced and Pot Vines. —There must be nnv further delay in 
b e pruning of Vines intanisd to ripen their fruit by the end of April or 
WOHK.foiItheWEEK.. 
