September 3), 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
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Sale of Orchids at Stevens’ Rooms. 
Sale of Orchids at Protheroe and Morris’ Rooms. 
l'TH Sunday after Trinity. 
Sa’e of stock at the Kmg’s Acre Nurseries, Hereford. 
BULBOUS PLANTS. 
KOM the want of proper attention at the right 
moment it has too frequently happened that a 
season’s bloom has been sacrificed, and many 
bulbous-rooted plants considerably weakened, by 
remaining in the same soil for several years. It 
has often been urged that to dry a bulb, tuber, 
or corm has a tendency to weaken it, and that it 
is not consistent with the conditions under 
which they exist in their native habitats. There 
is much truth in this statement: still, there are exceptions. 
In the first instance we have not to regard the plant as in 
its native haunts, for even there we do not find them uni¬ 
formly distributed over any given area ; on the contrary, we 
find some gathered in colonies, as though giving preference 
to certain localities and conditions of soil. We have then to 
deal with plants under cultivation for the most part as 
foreigners, and as existing under very opposite conditions to 
those under which they are found in a wild state. 
Some plants and bulbs seem to take to our climate most 
readily, while others are not so well adapted to it. Some 
plants, too, lose all or the majcrity of their roots annually, 
and it is here where the line slit uld be drawn as regards the 
beneficial results or otherwise of the drying-off process. For 
example, the Liliums taken as a whole commence to put 
forth new roots immediately on the ripening of the flower 
stem of the current season, so that if any new plantations of 
these are anticipated it should be done at that particular 
time. The common white garden Lily, L. candidum, it will 
be observed, at flowering time, and especially during hot 
seasons, is rendered leafless, and as soon as flowering is com¬ 
pleted is the best time for its removal, as by carrying out the 
work at this time we do not sacrifice any new roots, which 
speedily form and which it is so important should be retained. 
I have known repeated instances where even gigantic bulbs 
of this particular species have been transplanted in full leaf 
and with new roots attached have taken a whole season to 
recover. The members of the genus Lilium are by no means 
benefited by the lifting and drying process, nor, indeed, are 
any bulbous or tuberous-rooted plants, provided the condi¬ 
tions under which they exist are such as they require; but at 
certain seasons it becomes an absolute necessity to adopt 
some means of protecting and preserving them. 
Take for another example the genus Narcissus. There 
we have one entirely opposed to the Lilium family, inasmuch 
as it will endure a great amount of hardship, and provided 
the bulbs are lifted and dried at the proper time no amount of 
sun will injure them; indeed, in some species it is most 
beneficial to them, and becomes a primary condition in their 
successful culture. Among those that are benefited by a 
thorough periodical baking or drying may be mentioned 
monophyllus, citrinus, triandrus, and others. This drying 
may of course be accomplished without lifting the bulbs by 
simply placing lights over them, so that no rain may reach 
them, and this with a scorching sun overhead will have the 
desired effect. With the great multitude of Narcissus, how- 
No. 327. — Vol, XIII., Thibd Series. 
ever, this is not indispensable, for where soil and situation 
suit them they may remain for years undisturbed. 
The species of Ohionodoxa which lose their roots annually 
do not appear to be influenced oneway or the other by lifting 
and drying, beyond the fact that those lifted come a little 
later in flower, I prefer to leave these undisturbed, for 
nothing can surpass, in the darkest days of spring, the lovely 
gem which during the past few years has been occupying such 
a prominent position among our earliest flowers, I. have had 
occasion recently to lift a small bed of it, which have been 
only a season planted, and the remarkable progress made 
surprised me. This was more noticeable in 0. Luciliie than 
in 0. sardensis, though all were similar when planted, and 
have been grown under precisely the same conditions. 
At the present time plantings may be made of Gladiolus 
Colvilli The Bride, but those destined for early work in pots 
should have been planted earlier ; the flowering is now some 
time past, the growths decaying, and the corms well matured. 
This is a most valuable pot plant, and indispensable to the 
bouquetist, as by successional plantings and introducing into 
warmth the earlier batches they may be had from February 
till June, in which latter month they flower naturally in the 
open ground. In all cases where this is grown, whether it 
may be in pots or in the open ground, a light sandy soil 
should be used; in cold, clayey, and retentive soils it soon 
deteriorates, and in fact should never be planted in them; in 
light sandy soils it grows freely and increases rapidly, and 
we cannot have too much of so lovely flowers. Too often thia 
is left to be ordered with the general bulbs, such as Hyacinths, 
Tulips, &c., and in consequence time is lost. Those potted 
should be placed five in a 5-inch pot, for the corps are not 
any larger than a good sized Crocus, and these will be ready 
for introduction into slight heat by the middle of November, 
and by being brought on gradually will flower early in the 
year, and I am of opinion that its flowering period may be 
very much extended by adopting special meaus in its culture ; 
at any rate, I mean to experiment in this direction, and shall 
have pleasure in recording the results hereafter. 
All Scillas, Muscaris, Triteleias, Alliums, Brodifeas, Snow¬ 
drops, and similar bulbs, should be lifted at once if not already 
done, if any new plantings are to be carried out, as if left in 
the soil too long they will make new roots, especially if the 
weather continues showery. While speaking of Scillas I may 
mention that S. sibirica (which has found a most formidable 
opponent in Ohionodoxa Lucilife) is sometimes very much 
damaged on cold stiff soils by a grub which bores into the 
bulb, and unfits it for flowering. In such a case it is better 
lifted and thoroughly examined, laid in the sun to dry for a 
fortnight, and, protected from rain, they will be benefited 
thereby. When replanting them use a fair amount of sharp 
grit about the bulbs. 
I wonder if any readers of the Journal have experienced 
difficulty in flowering Anemone fulgens after the first year; 
if so a complete and thorough baking in full sun is the best 
cure. They undergo a complete rest, they shrivel, but as soon 
as they are again planted they rapidly swell and push forth 
roots in an incredibly short space of time. This is the cure for 
Anemone fulgens that will not flower, but which rarely occurs 
on other than stiff holding soils. On light sandy soils they do 
remarkably well, their increase is rapid, and the number oi 
flowers increase in the same proportion as the size of the 
tuber. A three-months rest is not too much for them.. It 
is also a noteworthy fact that not only is this scarlet Wind¬ 
flower benefited by a thorough drying,_ but also all similar 
tuberous species and varieties, by which I mean Anemone 
stellata, coronaria, and the like. These may be kept dry 
for months without vitality being impaired, and as soon as 
they are again placed in the soil they commence swe.hng 
immediately. As an example of the quick manner in which 
these Anemones answer to the soil, I may state that in the 
spring of the present year, about the end of March, I planted 
some 500 tubers of Anemone fulgens, dry, shrivelled scraps 
No. 1983.—Yol. LXXV., Ore Series 
