October II, 1886. 1 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
335 
we have found very beneficial in its results consists in clearing off 
all the surface soil until the upper layer of roots is uncovered, then 
place over and work among the roots a good dressing of soil from 
the compost heap formed by the decayed rubbish brought from the 
garden. A slight layer of soil is then placed over this surface, and 
if a good set of fruit is secured the following summer a mulching of 
dung will be found of great benefit. 
Older trees of over-strong growth, and which produce large 
soft fruits, may be brought back to a better state of health by 
digging well under the roots from one side, cutting all the strong 
roots which are met with, especially taking care to get any which 
may be growing downwards. Provided the check is sufficient to 
increase at once the fruitfulness and improve the quality of the 
fruit the trees should be left for two years, when the other half of 
the trees should be done in the same way. However, if the check 
to growth has been insufficient, in the following autumn the trees 
should be root-pruned all round and underneath. 
As to preparing ground for young trees, it may be of interest to 
state that our finest fruits, both as regards size and colour, are 
grown on the poorest and shallowest part of the garden. Warner’s 
King and Stirling Castle are about double the size of specimens 
from other parts of the garden. King of the Pippins is also double 
in size and better coloured. Kerry Pippin is much finer in quality 
and appearance, and it is much the same with others. The dressing 
given to the ground consisted merely of a very thick coating of 
decayed rubbish-compost, which was well worked through among 
the soil. Our experience gained with Apples has led to this some¬ 
what despised material being employed for other fruits, notably 
Apricots, the same good result following with these. 
Just a few words of warning to beginners. The present is a 
test season with Apples. In many gardens there are very few 
Apples, and the reason is simple and apparent. Only a few varie¬ 
ties have borne fruit this year, and although these invariably carry 
crops, gardeners when planting overlook this fact and fritter away 
their means on a greater or less number of sorts, many of which 
never pay their way. By the simple process of increasing a few 
sorts which were found to bear well in all seasons we have not 
only a sufficient quantity of Apples with which to provide a large 
household, but some hundredweights to dispose of. As young 
trees advance, and unprofitable croppers are removed, we hope to 
be able to secure crops from all our trees, and that we shall be able 
to crop sufficiently light to secure the very best fruits without in 
any way burdening the trees in any season.—B. 
THE AMBUEY OE CABBAGE DI3EASE. 
I believe the name ambury is the original and proper name, 
but in some localities it is known by others, the most common of 
which is clubbing ; but whichever it is known by, there is no 
question about its being a most annoying and destructive disease 
which for many years has affected the Cabbage family. This 
season it is more prevalent than I have seen or known before. 
Plantations of acres have in some instances quite one-half of the 
plants rendered worthless, while in the gardens of the amateur and 
cottager nearly the whole have suffered severely. It matters little 
whether on light or heavy land, all seem to be affected alike. 
It is somewhat singular that up to now the disease seems to 
have baffled all attempts to eradicate it—that is, if any attempts 
have really been made. I, however, am afraid that many culti¬ 
vators have trusted to chance rather than experiment upon a crop 
they think common, and must therefore take care of itself. Such 
neglect has this season proved very costly. During more than 
twenty years’ experience I have been little troubled with the 
disease, for the means I adopt, I think I remember reading in the 
numbers of the Cottage Gardener and afterwards published in the 
“ Cottage Gardeners’ Dictionary,” but as many do not see that 
work I will endeavour to reach them through the Journal. That 
account states that the disease is caused by a weevil too small to be 
seen with the naked eye, and that the disease originates in the seed 
bed, which is quite true ; therefore the allotted space for the seed 
bed should have a special preparation by first working down the 
soil very fine, at the same time working in a fair quantity of quick¬ 
lime and soot in equal proportions, thoroughly mixing it with the 
soil ; then sow the seed, working it in with the rake, which will 
cover it sufficiently. As soon as the plants are large enough to pick 
out, as that process goes on, examine every plant at the root, when 
some of the most forward plants, if attacked, will show a small 
lump at the side of the stem just above the root. This may not be 
larger than a pin’s head, but it should be cut out. It is not, how- 
e per, at this time that the disease can be fully discovered, but it is 
when the plants are larger and about to be transferred to their final 
quarters, when a close examination ought to be made ; the eruption 
is then larger, and nearly every plant affected can be picked out 
Take the lump off with a sharp knife, and the plants will not b e 
injured ; but as an extra precaution I make it a rule for the plants 
to be puddled or dipped in a mixture of soot and quicklime of equal 
quantities, making it the thickness of paint by the addition of water 
and finely sifted soil, and then finally planted, but not watered for 
two or three days, or the value of the remedy is weakened. I am 
aware that all do not raise their own plants ; but, at all events, if 
people will take the trouble to examine those they purchase and 
treat them as I advise the ravages of the disease wiil be reduced to 
a minimum. Plants should not stand too long in the seed bed. I 
have seen several hundreds of plants that have been sent by rail 
during the summer, and on an examination the number of those 
attacked ranged from 20 to 46 per cent. No wonder at failure if 
such were planted out. A change of position for the seed beds, or 
if not a change of soil, has proved a check to the inroads of the 
disease. —Thomas Record. 
PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS. 
When is the proper time to plant trees and shrubs ? is a question that 
even experienced planters often ask. They have perhaps planted exten¬ 
sively and seen the work of others with probably many failures. Wise¬ 
acres of course have a knack of knowing all about it, particularly when 
free of responsibility, hut instead of being prepared with anything definite 
are as tantalising by their solutions as the result is vexatious to the 
operator and disastrous to the proprietor. Trees may be planted in 
similar soil and climate at a similar time with no apparent difference in 
the plants or variety, but there is a great difference in the success. It is 
admittedly wrong to plant a tree or shrub when making growth, as 
transplanting in its full sense means loss of the younger and more active 
feeders or roots, so that the tree or shrub must suffer a considerable 
diminution of support, and there is considerably greater risk of injury to 
the growth from the loss by evaporation, therefore it is not advisable to 
move a tree when it is in active growth. It is not judicious to move a 
tree or shrub after it has commenced growing until the growth is completed 
and firm, so that it will suffer least from loss of roots in support. Plant¬ 
ing trees at the dead of winter is inadvisable for several reasons. 1, The 
exposure of the roots to cold and frost or cutting winds. 2, The cold wet 
condition of the soil is not favourable to securing the plant firmly in the 
soil, whilst in heavy soils the lossened soil is little better than a mud hole 
during the winter. 3, The plants cannot be properly secured in the 
ground, Happily the weather prevents planting operations in winter to 
a large extent. The right time to plant most trees and shrubs is in mild 
weather, the air calm and moist, and the ground in good working order. 
There is not a wrong time, from when the leaves of deciduous trees are 
turning yellow and falling until the buds begin to swell, provided the 
conditions just enumerated prevail. Such at least is my experience. 
With evergreens it also holds good. The whole art of transplanting rests 
upon a few plain facts—viz., 1st, Carefully rearing the plants intended 
for moving so as to secure a sturdy, well furnished, thoroughly hardy 
plant with abundance of roots close to the stem. 2nd, Careful lifting, 
preserving all the roots practicable, and if the soil must be removed doing 
it with as little violence as is necessary in order to prevent injury— 
skinning, bruising or breaking the roots. 3rd, Keeping the roots out of 
the sun and from the drying influences of the air as much as possible, and 
above all other things from frost. 4th, Keeping them thin when out of the 
ground, so that the top can have air, instead of that reprehensible practice 
of tying in large bundles that may and do heat in the middle, or piling in 
heaps, in trucks or otherwise. These are matters that belong to the 
nurseryman—the rearer and vendor. That this part is done well redounds 
much to the credit of the established firms, but there is room for improve¬ 
ment. If the trees are not properly reared no planter can make them 
grow, yet much of the blame that should attach to the vendor is put on 
the customer. Thickly grown and infrequently transplanted tree3 are 
dear at a gift. 
On the part of the planter the art of transplantation consists of—1st, 
Preparing the ground, it may only be moor land that only needs clearing 
of coarse scrub, draining wet places by open ditches, and the accompany¬ 
ing lesser grips or woods that demand similar attention, or more preten¬ 
tious groups of ornamental trees that require the ground for a speedy 
growth and cleanliness to be trenched after draining, primary considera¬ 
tions that are not sometimes seen until the failure or ill-success of the 
plantings claim attention. 2nd, In receiving the plants, lay them in 
the soil in a convenient position and suitable site, not selecting a spot 
where water will lodge in the trench, or on the other hand devoid of 
moisture, undoing the bundles, and laying them in thinly, so that the 
plants can have air and light and the roots the needful moisture—not the 
mere outside of the bundles damp whilst the inside is dry—and the soil 
not put on the roots in great spitfuls, but broken fine, so that it will close 
about the roots, and enough of it put over them to exclude drought, cold, 
and frost. 3rd, In planting, the operator must form a hole large enough 
to admit the roots without having to twist them into a corkscrew to cram 
and double them in, nor have the hole so shallow that the tree must be 
placed on the hard bottom or “ pan,” but so that it will have some loose 
good soil for the roots to rest on. If not deep enough sink it, and if too 
deep put in soil to raise it, so that the tree will be planted as deeply as 
it was before, or if anything slightly deeper. Cover the roots with fine 
good soil, spreading them out in layers, giving a gentle shake, so as to 
draw and fix the soil about the roots and amongst them. Firm the soil 
well about the roots, not leaving any interstices by putting in great chunks, 
have the tree as erect as possible, and the soil disposed on the it.'- 
