374 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 21, 1888. 
laterals, well thinning the old foliage, 60 that the fruit may have the 
full benefit of the autumn sun. Do not allow flagging for want of water, 
but keep the foliage healthy until the fruit is ripe, as the quality is in 
proportion to the health of the plants. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
StepJuinotis floribunda .—Plants that have completed their growth 
should be kept moderately cool for the next month or six weeks. 
If the night temperature ranges from 50° to 55° this plant will rest 
thoroughly, provided the atmosphere is kept dry. The soil about the 
roots should also be kept rather dry, for they are certain to die back if too 
wet. The drier the roots and the atmosphere, the lower the temperature 
can be kept with safety, the more completely will the plant rest. This is 
a good time to take down the plants if trained upon wires under the roof 
to thoroughly clean them. If infested with mealy bug every endeavour 
should be made to free them during the season of inactivity. As soon as 
the wood and foliage becomes hardened by drier and cooler treatment 
they will bear a much stronger insecticide than at any time during the 
growing season. One of the best insecticides for this purpose is Fir tree 
oil, and if used at the strength recommended by the vendors it will prove 
effectual for mealy bug. As soon as the plant is started into growth it 
should be daily syringed with a weak solution. It is surprising, if per¬ 
sisted in, how this keeps bug from spreading. Plants that have not yet 
completed their growth should be in a temperature 65° at night, and the 
atmosphere moderately dry. Gfiowth must be brought to a standstill as 
early as possible and then thoroughly rested if a good supply of bloom is 
required next season. 
Clerodendrons .—The earliest plants of C. Balfourianum and such 
varieties have lost their foliage, should be kept perfectly dry at their 
roots. These plants will do well under the same conditions as advised above, 
but the temperature should not be allowed to fall below 55°. If placed in 
too low a temperature these are very liable to go off instead of starting 
into growth when desired. No advan‘age is gained by subjecting these 
plants to a long period of rest; it is much better to keep them under stove 
treatment, and supply water to the roots in sufficient quantities to pre¬ 
vent their going to rest as early as would be the case if water was with¬ 
held. PlaLts to bloom profusely in July and August next should be 
encouraged to grow until the end of the year, or they will naturally start 
into growth and flower before they are required. 
Allamandas .—The earliest plants are resting, and although they will 
bear a low temperature for a time, they will be injured if allowed to 
remain in a cool house too long. To insure safety do not have a lower 
temperature than 50°. Successional plants may be rested by withholding 
water until the foliage flags. When this has taken place two or three 
times the branches may be pruned to within a yard of the main stems. 
Those intended to supply flowers until Christmas must continue growing, 
or else they will cease flowering in a very short time. Feed the plants 
with weak stimulants every time they require water. A rich top-dressing 
will also prove beneficial. Rest Bougainvilleas, and the treatment advised 
for Allamandas will suit these plants well. 
Winter-flowering Plants .—With Poinsettias, Euphorbias, Plumbagos, 
Linum trigynum, and other plants that have been removed from cold 
frames to a light structure where heat can be supplied them, care must be 
taken that they do not commt nee fresh growth. Too much heat and too close 
a temperature will bring about this state of things, and destroy to a very 
large extent the plants for flowering profusely. The temperature for the 
present should not exceed 55° to 60°, and a good circulation of air should 
be maintained whenever the weather will allow of this being done. If a 
close system of treatment is followed the lowest temperature named 
must not be exceeded. As soon as it can be seen that the plants have 
not been excited into fresh growth they should receive a little artificial 
manure applied to the surface of the soil. This may be practised at 
intervals of two or three weeks until they bloom. 
Tydceas .—These and Gesneras should have a light position close to the 
glass, a shelf in a warm house is a capital place for them. Care must be 
taken that water does not lodge on their foliage, or it will be browned 
and the beauty of the plants destroyed. When arranged on stages with 
other plants it is almost impossible to keep water off their foliage when 
syringing, but as a rule they are safe when placed on a shelf. A little 
clear soot water should be given them every time they require water, 
which will bring the beautiful markings of their foliage out to perfection. 
Medinilla magnified ,.—When growth has been fully developed and 
brought to a standstill a cooler and drier atmosphere should be given, or 
else this plant will start again into growth. A light, moderately airy 
temperature of 55° will suit them well, less water being given from this 
date until the end of the year. Well-ripened wood and a good rest is 
essential if plenty of bloom is expected. 
Begonias .—Such Begonias as B. Ingrami, B. nitida, and others in very 
small pots may now be placed into 4 and 5-inch pots. These will make 
useful plants for flowering in the stove during the early months of the 
year. The shoots of the first-named should be pinched once or twice 
after they are established in the new soil; such kinds as the last named 
will be better grown on without pinching. These plants may be placed 
close to the glass and grown on steadily in an intermediate temperature. 
Begonias of the manicata section should have a moderately dry posiiion, 
for their large fleshy leaves are liable to suffer if too much moistui e is 
maintained about them. They may be divided into two batches, keeping 
half cooler than the remainder, so that they will form a successim. If 
this is done they will maintain a supply of flowering plants for the con¬ 
servatory until the end of April or into the following month. 
Lilacs .—The variety known as Charles X. is decidedly the best for 
forcing in pots in a small state. To grow these plants well those that 
were budded in 1885, and have made one season’s growth, should be 
selected for placing in 7-inch pots at the present time. The soil advised 
above will be suitable, and the plants should be plunged outside the same 
as advised for Guelder Roses. If lifted at once while the foliage is upon 
them they will become partially established before winter, and will start 
freely into growth next spring. In early spring they should be pruned 
back to within 4 or 6 inches of the union of the scion and stock, and the 
results will be growths 1 foot or more in length during the season studded 
with hold flower buds in autumn. 
Prunus .—The variety known as P. sinensis flore-pleno is decidedly a 
more profuse flowerer than P. triloba, and does well on its own roots, while 
the last named must be budded, or it frequently fails to give satisfac¬ 
tion. We invariably grow our stock in pots, but if we have surplus 
plants they are planted outside, and such plants often prove serviceable 
for lifting and potting at this season of the year. These, if lifted at 
once, should be given the same treatment until spring as the Deutzias, 
when they may be introduced into a vinery or Peach house to make 
their growth. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Shrubs and Conifers in Masses .—Where there are several large beds 
to be filled, the centres of these to within 3 or 4 feet of the edges may well 
be filled with ornamental shrubs and Conifer®. Several of the leading 
nurserymen prepare a number of plants specially for this purpose, and 
very pretty and effective they are when properly grouped. Some of the 
best of these are Aucuba japonica, Berberises aquifolium, Darwini, and 
Jamesoni, Biotas aurea, elegantissima, Variegated Box, Cupressuses 
minima, lutea, Lawsoniana, alba spica nana, minima, and argentea, 
erecta viridis, gracilis, Euonymuses japor.ica in variety, and radicans alba 
marginata, gold and silver variegated Hollies, Junipers chinensis aurea, 
feemina variegata, and tamariscifolia, round and Myrtle-leaved Laurels, 
Osmanthus ilicifolius, all the Retinosporas, notably those above named ; 
Taxus baccata and elegantissima, Thujas occidentalis aurea and Ver- 
vrnana, and Thuiopsis dolahrata variegata and laste virens. These 
are all supplied at a cheap rate, and as they move well they are 
available for several years. They are most effective in panels or circles 
divided by the more erect growers, though they also look well in 
mixture, due regard being paid to their respective heights so as to have a 
gradual slope to the edges. 
Bulbs in Beds .—The various kinds of bulbs suitable for the flower 
beds can now be purchased very cheaply, and this is very fortunate, as 
they are seldom to be relied upon a second time. The most popular are 
Hyacinths, Narcissuses, Tulips, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Anemones, and 
Ranunculuses. In some instances they are solely depended upon to 
brighten the garden in Maroh, April, and May, according to the season. 
Others intermingle them among flowering and foliaged plants, and seeing 
that the bulbs are the first to bloom in quantity they materially prolong 
the display. When planted in masses Hyacinths ought to be about 
9 inches apart, but if intermingled with other plants they may be from 
12 inches to 15 inches apart, and in any case not less than 3 inches deep. 
They may be planted at once, or not later than the first week in November, 
and the latter remarks, including the depth of planting, apply to all with 
the exception of the Anemones and Ranunculuses. The Narcissus may be 
planted the same distances apart as the Hyacinths, but the Tulips should 
be from 4 inches to 9 inches apart, the small Due Van Thols being given the 
lesser distance. Crocuses, Snowdrops, and Scillas to be about 2 inches 
apart, and are most effective in double or trebled lines near the edges. 
Anemones, including appennina, nemorosa flore pleno, vernalis, 
coronaria, and varieties, may be planted now for early flowering, or in 
February and March to flower late in spring. They are best planted in 
drills 2^ inches deep and about 5 inches apart each way, covering the 
roots with good sandy soil. Planted more thinly they will not cover the 
ground. The Turban varieties of Ranunculus are be9t for bedding out. 
Late in January or early in February are good times for planting them, 
and they should have a rich, deep, and well-worked soil. They may be 
lanted 6 inches to 9 inches apart and 2 inches deep. Beds containing 
ulbs only ought to be either mulched with leaf soil or cocoa-nut fibre, or 
they may be covered with neat branches of evergreens, such as Hollies, 
Aucubas, tree Ivy, Laurels, Arbor Vitas, and Box. Many of these being 
variegated, they can be made to brighten the beds somewhat, but the 
work should be done neatly. The ends being thrust into the ground, 
these branches will remain fresh for many weeks, and are certainly pre¬ 
ferable to bare beds. 
Sf 
Si 
HI 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
STIMULATIVE FEEDING IN AUTUMN. 
Stimulative feeding in autumn is disastrous to the bees 
and the sure precursor of ruin. This is my verdict upon a 
practice which it is hardly possible to condemn too strongly. 
It is antagonistic to every natural law and contrary to all 
economical management; it destroys the vital energy ot 
the queen and enervates the stock; it taxes to the utmost 
capacity the strength of the workers and demands from the 
