376 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 21, 1886. 
London, W., and writes them on the subect, he will get full particulars 
concerning everything: necessary for bee-keeping. The be6t instruction 
for beginners is in the Journal of Horticulture. The best breets of 
bees are, as a rule, crosses. My experience proves the Cyprian crosses t > 
be the best honey gatherers. In addition to the many instances of success 
with these bees that I have mentioned in this Journal, I have just had 
notice of one I parted with a year since, which has this year given its 
owner 80 lbs. of super honey. The Carniolian, for its mild temper, hardi¬ 
ness, and assiduity, are favourites with me. They are a little trouble¬ 
some when swarming, often flying a long time before settling ; also 
liable to send off many after casts. This latter can be easily prevented 
by excising all royal cells but one the eighth day after throwing its first 
swarm. The former annoyance can be obviated if artificial swarming is 
performed at the right time. 
The main object, however, with beginners is to secure a healthy hive 
of bees, having a young queen and new combs, and this is as good a time 
as any. Never mind what sort of hive it is, but let it be of a sufficient 
size, so that there will be a chance of the swarm or swarms being large 
enough to gather plenty of honey when the opportunity occurs. The 
swarms, of course, should be put into proper hives, and you will find no 
better than I have described in previous numbers. Upon the manage¬ 
ment of bees in these or other hives we shall be always glad to advise 
you. In an early number I will give directions how to make a cheap and 
useful hive in four or five hours’ time, and at a cost of three or four 
shillings. This hive is similar to those I had in use between the years 
1850 and 1860, and similar to those being adopted by bee-keepers gene¬ 
rally. No other hive gave me such good returns, and none is better 
adapted for bee-keeping generally. 
Good stocks of bees now 1 can be had for about 15s. and upwards. 
Those having bees to dispose of and those wishing bees or other things 
could find it to their advantage to advertise.— Lanarkshire Bee¬ 
keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
L. Spath, Berlin.— Catalogue of Plants. 
William Dean, 134, Sandwell Street, Walsall.— Catalogue of Violas and 
Pansies. 
James Walters, Exeter .—Catalogue of Poses for 1886-7. 
J. Cheal & Sons, Crawley, Sussex .—Catalogue of Trees and Shrubs. 
Thomas Rivers & Son, Sawbridge worth .—Catalogue of Fruit Trees, 1886-7. 
* w * All correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor ” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
NAMING FRUITS. —In consequence of the absence of our fruit referee 
from London fruits cannot be named by him during the month of October. 
Begonias ( B. Owen ).—We have received a box of flowers, but no letter 
referring to them. Presuming them to be seedlings of this year grown in 
the open air, they are very good and diversified in colour. 
Kew Gardens (Le Qargon ).—Write to the Curator, Mr. G. Nicholson, 
and the necessary forms will be forwarded to you. It is necessary to have 
had at least five years’ experience in gardens. The wages are 18s. per week. 
House Glazed without Putty ( Ferndale ).—The system of gltzingyou 
describe is certainly a ventilating one, and not calculated to retain heat. 
This is more particularly the case during windy weather, when the wind is 
driven in with such force as to cause a sudden or rapid depression of tem¬ 
perature. We do not advise such an open system of glazing for early fruit 
houses or vineries. It is not economical, and an excess of air is admitted 
just when it is least wanted. With proper means of ventilation, as you seem 
to have provided, the squares pressed on a bed of putty, and secured in 
position with sprigs, a great saving of fuel would be effected, and more 
equable temperature by artificial means, and good Grapes produced under 
good management. Economy is of importance, especially when it is had 
with efficiency. 
Chrysanthemums (W. Nicols ).—The quotation to which you refer was 
taken from the Journal of Horticulture, and the author of it was duly credited. 
If the old authors of properties of flowers were to be strictly followed, in¬ 
curved blooms would be disqualified, because one condition states the florets 
“ must not show their under sides.” This, of course, refers to the reflexed 
varieties, which are older than the incurved. Certainly authors should be 
credited with their own work, and if you will send an exact copy of the 
definitions to which you allude, we are willing to publish them if space 
permits. 
Tomatoes in Frame ( Constant Beader). —It is very doubtful that the 
cultivation of Tomatoes iu the frame during the winter would be profitable 
or equal to your expectation, apirt from the possibility of over-heating the 
vinery in supplying the requisite heat, 60° at night, for the Tomatoes. 
With free venti ation the temperature of the vinery might probably be kept 
down to 45° or thereabouts, and the Vines would then rest in a dry house, 
but in that case Tomatoes could only be had, and perhaps light crops too, 
with what would be practically a great waste of fuel. We do not advise 
you to carry out the project, though, ot course, you can try the experiment 
if you desire to do so. 
Cankered Apple Trees ( A Bray Subscriber). —We have known cankered 
Apple trees cut down and grafted with other varieties and healthy trees 
result; but as those most likely to succeed are more or less robust in growth 
they might be too large for your restricted space, and therefore we think 
your second suggestion the better—namely, to plant young trees on Paradise 
stocks, and keep the roots near the surface by refraining from digging 
amoDgst them, and mulching in the summer to prevent the soil drying and 
the roots striking downwards in search of moisture. You may then exp=ct 
fruitful trees, and no canker if overcrowding of the growths be prevented in 
the summer. 
Taro or Tara ( J. E., Belgium). —The word Taro is employed to signify the 
rhizomes of several species of Caladium and CalocaBia, but especially of 
C. esculentum, which is cultivated in many tropical countries, including 
India, where its farinaceous rhizomes are consumed by the natives. In the 
South Sea Islands, particularly in Fiji, it is also largely grown, and one 
variety, named by the natives Kurilagi, has been mentioned by Seeman as 
being formerly much used iu the canibalistic feasts once so common in those 
islands. Colocasia macrorhiza has a similarly farinaceous rhizome, and 
numerous other members of the Aroid family are remarkable for the 
quantity of starch contained in the rootstocks. 
Florida (A. P.). —In recent years considerable attention has been given 
to the cultivation of Oranges in Florida, which is said to prove remunerative. 
In this Journal for May 6ih, May 13th, and May 27th, 1885, articles were 
published giving full details respecting Orange culture in Florida. Most 
crops can be satisfactorily grown in that State, but you will find the in¬ 
formation you appear to require in a manual published at 30, Fleet Street, 
entitled “ Sunny Florida,” which gives many particulars concerning its 
resources. 
Roses for Market ( C. C. B.). —It is not possible for anyone to say which 
are the “best” varieties for all soils and districts. Those you name are 
good, but Climbing Devoniensis, Isabella Sprunt, and Celine Forestier are 
not equally floriferous in differing soils and positions. We Bhonld not 
plant great numbers of those before proving their suitability, and we should 
add a few of several others, as the probability is that some of them would 
be found specially adapted for your soil and purpose. A. K. Williams is a 
beautiful Rose, though in some soils it is the reverse of a vigorous grower. 
Dwarf Roses may be planted 3 feet apart, or perhaps rows 4 feet asunder 
would be more convenient in extensive culture; and at that distance— 
4 by 3 feet—an acre would take 3630 plants. 
Grapes for Wall (.4 West Surrey Amateur). —The two very best Grapes 
for outdoor culture are Chasselas Vibert and Esperione, the former being 
decidedly earlier than Royal Muscadine. Both are good growers and free 
bearers. Two Vines will be sufficient for covering the space, and the Vines 
planted 7 feet 6 inches from each end, taking a cane right and left at a foot 
distance from the ground, and on these originating the uprights 15 inches 
from the ends of the alloted space and 15 inches on each side of the stem and 
one midway of those, so that each Vine will have six uprights, allowing a 
space of 2 feet 6 inches between each. Ferdinand de Lesseps is not nearly 
so good as Chasselas Vibert for outdoor cultivation. 
Gooseberry and Pear for Confined Space (Idem). —Neither of the 
Gorseberries you name is of upright growth, but spreading. Whitesmith, 
Red Champagne, and Whinham’s Industry might suit you, these being hardy 
and great croppers and of good quality. Of upright-growing Bears to 
come in in October there is none more compact, free in bearing, or better 
in quality than Comte de Lamy, Fondante d’Automne, and Louise Bonne 
of Jersey. 
Destroying Ants (4 Buffed Gardener). —Try sponges clean and dry, 
held tightly between the fingers and thumb and dipped so held in honey 
or syrup, relaxing the pressure when dipped so as to allow the honey and 
syrup to enter the sponge, and then withdraw, giving a gentle squeeze so as 
to cause some of the juice to exude or drip ; all that is wanted is to get some 
of the sweetness into the interior of the sponge. Baits of this kind will 
be eagerly sought after. The ants will pass into the sponge in quest of the 
honey or syrup, and when they are at work in goodly numbers the pieces of 
sponge can be dropped into boiling water. Wash the sponges, dry, and 
repeat. We have never known this fail when persevered in. Or bait with 
honey in saucers and then change to others in which arsenic has been 
thoroughly mixed. If not thoroughly mixed, the ants will take the honey 
and leave the arsenic. The poisoned honey must be kept from animals. 
Crotons (Constant Beader). —Perhaps your plants do not flourish because 
they have not sufficient heat. They require a very high temperature and 
moist genial atmosphere. They should seldom be kept below 65° even in 
winter. They grow well under suitable conditions in a mixture of two- 
thirds turfy loam and one-third turfy peat, adding sand and a little crushed 
charcoal to render the compost porous. It is quite impossible for us to say 
whether your plants need repotting or not, as you neither indicate their size 
nor the size of the pot3 ; but as a rule spring is the best time for repotting 
Crotons. Nor can we advise you satisfactorily about the Gloxinias, because 
you say not a word about their condition; probably the pots are large 
enough, and if the plants are strong they may flower towards Christmas in 
a suitable temperature, and with good attention as regards watering. 
Hydrangeas should be kept cool and rather dry in the winter, and pruned 
to the boldest buds in the spring. You ought to have described the size and 
condition of the plants. It will be soon enough to answer your question 
about Roses in a future issu". 
