380 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 
[ Oobobar 28, 1F86. 
class for “ colour and finish." When the writer saw the 
Grapes growing at Mount Melville, a paper shield was placed 
over every bunch, and if they did not benefit from that slight 
shade and subdued sun, it is very certain they did not suffer. 
The covering may have been provided to prevent dust settling 
on the bunches, or it may not; be that as it may, it was 
there, and not long afterwards the first-prize card was 
attached to some of them in very severe competition. 
^ It is not possible to give specific instructions that can be 
safely and rigidly followed by all persons in all places and 
under all circumstances. Judgment must be exercised on 
the question of admitting the sun to Muscat Grapes, paying 
due regard to the moisture in, or its comparative absence 
from, the soil and the atmosphere. If the evaporation is 
disproportionate to and greatly in excess of absorption ripe 
Muscats will shrivel just as White Currants will “wizen” 
if exposed to the direct action of hot sun in summer, when 
the bushes at the same time are suffering by drought at the 
roots ; and late ripened or imperfectly ripened Muscats often 
remain firm, because evaporation from the berries is neces¬ 
sarily less during dull and cool weather than in the exhausting 
days of summer, or an exceptionally dry early autumn like 
that of the present year. —Experientia docet. 
In the Journal for October 7th, page 330, in your reply to corre¬ 
spondents you give two causes for this—first, a cheek in ripening, or 
rather I should say in the growing season, and then (what to my 
mind is of the first importance) starting the Vines too late. This 
reply has been brought under my notice, and I should now like to 
give my experience on some points in Grape culture, also my opinion 
on the fruit shrivelling. I feel rather reluctant in thus putting my 
thoughts on paper, more especially as so far I have done nothing 
wonderful in growing Muscats, though we have a good crop. 
I will take three kinds of shrivelling. First, the most common— 
namely, shanking; second, the shrivelling of stoneless or imperfect 
berries when over-ripe ; and lastly, the shrivelling of berries on un¬ 
ripened wood, chiefly on young rods, this latter deserving particular 
attention. Shanking, though I do not personally complain, is very 
prevalent this year, due, I think, as much to a low or fluctuating 
temperature and want of sun in this very changeable season as to 
anything else. Of course, faulty borders, low and undrained, which 
are cold, aggravate the evil, which is also, on the other hand, incited 
by a scarcity of water. A raised—thus a warmer—border is one 
great step towards preventing shanking. This is very clearly shown 
here, where Muscats are never so good or free from shanking as in a 
raised bed. I have never grown a Muscat in a pot, but should not 
expect to see shanking if I did. 
Nothing surprises visitors here, including experienced men and 
good practical gardeners, so much as a house 80 feet long of Muscats, 
growing in what was three years since a Cucumber bed. The Vines 
are planted 4 feet apart in a border 3 feet wide, with soil not more 
than 15 inches deep, and the rods are now carrying from 10 to 20 lbs. 
of Grapes each—Grapes, too, that I hope to have in good condition 
in March. 
I have satisfied myself that an excess of water early in the season 
will cause shanking, even though the border is well drained ; and 
again, I have found that a border kept too dry, though it does not 
cause shanking and sour berries so soon, still the evil is apparent 
later on. A low temperature at swelling time is a fruitful source of 
shanking, and though some good growers close their houses at 90° or 
100° I do not believe in it, as this temperature may be down to G0 Q 
in the morning, and this extreme or sudden change from heat to cold 
cannot be good. Old Vines in poor or exhausted borders with roots 
running at random shank more or less. The remedy in such cases is 
root-pruning, lifting, and better soil. 
The second kind of shrivelling I will deal with is with either 
stoneless berries or Grapes containing less than the normal number 
of seeds. If Muscats of this kind are ripened early no man can 
keep them ; but if ripened late, though of course the colour is not 
good, I have proved they will keep far into the spring. This wi 1, I 
suspect, lead to some writing to the contrary, but still I record a fact 
If early Muscats are to be kept on the Vine after ripe shading will 
benefit them immensely. I have put sheets of paper over each bunch 
with great advantage, for if the sun be allowed to shine fully on the 
bunches after fully ripe a few berries, especially near the top of the 
bunches, will shrivel and also become discoloured. I know that 
distance from the glass has great influence, also the size of the house, 
the Grapes in a large house enduring much more sun than those in a 
smaller one. 
I will now refer to shrivelling which is not shanking, because 
shanked berries are sour, not filled with saccharine matter, while the 
shrivelled berries under notice are sweet and eatable, and shall trace 
the cause to immature wood. I have never found this kind of shrivel¬ 
ling except on young canes or rods, which rods if considered ripe 
were certainly not so. Two Vines of Muscats in my oldest house 
speak volumes to a thinking man. One rod five years old is now 
perfect, with a good crop of useful bunches, not large, but fair-sized 
berries, of good colour. On the same Vine is a rod of last year, 
which at pruning time I left the full length of the rafter to match 
the old Vine, allowing a space of 3 feet 6 inches between the rods. 
Now what is the result ? The largest bunches are on the young 
canes, but the Grapes are not ripe, or at least not coloured ; they are 
also shrivelling, and to prevent waste I must cut and sell them. 
When the sun is shining on them the difference in colour and plump¬ 
ness of the Grapes on the two rods of the same Vine is very appa¬ 
rent, and equally so by candlelight. These young canes—I have two 
of them—have taught me a lesson, and I conclude that unripened 
wood is often a cause of failure in Muscats. One of these young 
rods will be cut away as soon as the fruit is cleared, but the other 
will be left for another year’s experiment. Late Muscats must of 
necessity be more liable to this form of shrivelling than is fruit 
ripened early. By early ripened I mean Muscats that are at their 
best in August or September, and I cannot think that these are 
improved by hanging on the Vine. This, however, will depend to a 
great extent on the amount and quality of the foliage. 
I am seeking information as to the best time for starting Muscats. 
I think March is too late, especially in this cold marshy district, and 
believe February (if hard firing is not resorted to) would be better. 
A very experienced grower informed me the other day he began before 
Christmas, and this, too, with the Grapes now hanging. If the Vines 
require rest I would ask, When are they to have it ? Seven months I 
find is the time it takes me to grow and finish Muscats, but unfoitu- 
nately I have overweighted the crop this year, and have no doubt 
with a lighter crop six months would suffice. A bad season must 
retard the ripening of Muscats much more than black Grapes. I 
hope some of our successful Grape growers will favour us with their 
experience on early and late ripening for keeping purposes. Here at 
the warmest end of the house nearest the boiler Muscats always do 
the best. This I think due, not so much to the higher temperature 
of the fruiting season, as to the fact of this wood being so much 
earlier ripened the previous summer. I have dealt with this matter 
rather freely, and hope to be pardoned if in going out of the beaten 
path new light is put on this great question of the shrivelling of 
Muscats. If grown under favourable conditions they will not be so 
liable to any of the three kinds of shrivelling, and the larger the 
berries the better they will keep. 
So far I have confined my remarks to the white Muscats : now 
for a line on the black. Madresfield Court, the only black Muscat I 
grow, never shrivels here. True, the end of November sees the end 
of these, as this is not a keeper. Lady Downe’s, though it is a dis¬ 
puted point as to its having a touch of Muscat (I think it has) is 
often subject to shrivel, though the shrivelled berries are uniformly 
faulty in stones. Very great stress is laid upon this variety being 
the best keeping Grape. I, however, do not fully endorse this. I 
will give in to its being the best flavoured of all the late blacks ; 
but speaking of flavour in black Grapes, where does it lie ? Why, 
in the skin. Take all the pulp out of a berry each of the Black 
Hamburgh, Alicante, Madresfield Court, and Gros Maroc—then 
what? It would be a very difficult matter to say which is 
which ! Take the skins and suck them well, then you will tell one 
from the other. Lady Downe’s under this test will stand well, the 
Muscat aroma coming out more or less according to ripeness. 
Muscat of Alexandria if well grown even the pulp is scented more or 
less. —Stephen Castle, West Lynn. 
SPRING BEDDING. 
(Continued from page 357 .) 
Cuttings of Iberis corifolia should be inserted in sandy soil 
at the end of August or early in September in a cold frame. 
Do not admit air until roots are formed, when they must be gra¬ 
dually hardened. It is well for them to have the protection of the 
frame until early in April, when they should be planted in rows 
in an open space. Pinch the point out of each plant, which induces 
side shoots to grow freely, keeping them dwarf. If the weather 
be dry during summer supply water freely, and by October they 
will be stout plants. Year-old plants may be retained another 
year by placing them deeply in the beds, and they may be made to 
render good service once more. The position in the beds must be 
determined by circumstances, either in masses or as an edging. 
Cheirantiius alpinus.— A plant not commonly used for 
spring bedding, but it is charming for the purpose. Its delicate 
lemon-coloured flowers are so distinct from any other plant that it 
