396 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
I October 28, 1886. 
WORK foathe WE EK.. Oi 
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HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Profitable Fruit. —In planting fruit for market avoid a large 
collection of sort?, and plant only such as are well known to be very 
prolific of fruit, come into bearing early, yield fruit which commands a 
prompt and brisk sale, and which are found to answer in most kinds of 
soil and situation. 
Dessert Apples. —Devonshire Quarrenden, Kerry Pippin, Margil, 
Yellow Ingestrie, Worcester Pearmain, Kentish Pippin, Sugarloaf Pippin, 
Red Astrachan, King of Pippins, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Wyken PippiD, 
Sturmer Pippin, Count Pendu Plat, and Lord Burghley. 
Kitchen Apples. —Duchess of Oldenburgh, Early Julyan, Keswick 
Codlin, Manx Codlin, Cellini, Lord Suffield, New Hawthornden, Cox’s 
Pomona, Warner’s King, Grenadier, Stirling Castle, Small’s Admir¬ 
able, Ecklinville, Golden Noble, Lord Derby, Queen Caroline, Dumelow’s 
Seedling, Northern Greening, Smart’s Prince Albert. 
Pears.— Summer Doyenn4, Lammas, Jargonelle, Williams’ Bon 
Chretien, Colmar d’Et6, Hessle, Beurre Capiaumont, Beurrd Clairgeau, 
Aston Town,Fertility, Eyewood, Bishop’s Thumb, Broompark, Louise Bonne 
of Jersey, Duchesse d’Angouleme, Beurrd Hardy, Doyenne du Comice. 
Plums. —Rivers’ Early Prolific, Victoria, Early Orleans, The Czar, 
Mitchelson’s, Prince Englebert, Belgian Purple, Denbigh, Pershore, White 
Magnum B inum, Pond’s Seedling, The Sultan, Green Gage, Autumn 
Compote, Belle de Septembre, Prince of Wales, Grand Duke, Goliath, 
Cooper’s Large or La Delicieuse, Corse’s Nota Bene. Damsons.—Crit¬ 
tenden’s, Rivers’ Early. 
Cherries. —Frogmore Early, Elton, Governor Wood, Adam’s Crown, 
Bigarreau Napoleon, Werder’s Early Black, Black Bigarreau, Black 
Tartarian, Belle Magnifique. 
Bush Fruits. —Gooseberries.—Whitesmith, Early Sulphur, Red 
Warrington, Rifleman, Crown Bob, Lancashire Lad. 
Black Currants. —Lee’s Prolific, Black Naples, Black Champion. 
Red Currants.—Knight’s Large Red, Red Dutch, Raby Castle. Rasp¬ 
berries.—Prince of Wales, Carter’s Prolific, Fastolf. 
There are certain kinds of fruit which may be planted by the acre 
with a feeling of certainty that the return upon our outlay will be quick 
and abundant. Of such we would take such Apples as Margil, Keswick 
Codlin, Duchess of Oldenburgh, Warner’s King, and such Pears as 
Williams’ Bon Chretien, Bourn.: Clairgeau, and Louise Bonne of Jersey. 
Rivers’ Early Prolific Plum, and Crittenden Damson, and Red Warrington 
Gooseberry should also be planted extensively. For the assistance of 
those of our readers who may be planting a collection of hardy fruit 
we append additional lists of really fine sorts of Apples and Pears new 
and old. 
Apples. —Striped Beefing, Scarlet Pearmain, Reinette Van Mods, 
Pine Golden Pippin, Pine Apple Russet, Pearson’s Plate, Norfolk Beefing, 
Nonesuch, Nonpareil, Mannington’s Pearmain, Irish Peach, Hubbard’s 
Pearmain, Hambledon Deux Ans, Gravenstein, Gooseberry Apple, Golden 
Russet, Golden Reinette, Golden Pippin, Golden Harvey, Adam’s Pear¬ 
main, Alfriston, Api, Ashmead’s Kernel, Barcelona Pearmain, Beauty of 
Kent, Bedfordshire Foundling, Bess Pool, Brabant Bellefleur, Calville 
Malingre, Claygate Pearmain, Coe’s Golden Drop, Court of Wick, Dr. 
Hogg, Downton Pippin, Early Harvest, Early Joe, Emperor Alexander, 
Fairy, Lemon Pippin, Fearn’s Pippin. 
^ Pears. —Beurr6 Sterkmans, Beurr6 d’Amanlis, Beurrfi Ranee, Duchesse 
d’Orleans, Red Doyennd, Van Mons Leon Leclerc, Dr. Trousseau, Gansel’s 
Bergamot, Pitmaston Duchess, Dr. Hogg Bergamot, Summer Beurre 
d’Aremberg, Brown Beurr6, Beurr4 Hardy, Beurr4 Diel, Beurr6 d’Anjou, 
Bergamotte Esperen, Belle Julie, Baronne de Mello, Autumn Bergamot, 
Althorp Crassanne, Doyenn4.Defay, Emile d’Heyst, Hampden’s Bergamot, 
Napoleon, Passe Colmar, Suffolk Thom. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Vines. —Those for affording fruit in April must now 
be started, whether they be in pots or planted out. Vines in pots are 
unquestionably the best for this early forcing, and with good culture they 
afford fruit little inferior to that from permanently planted Vines. In 
the case of those in pots we advise the pots to be stood on pillars of loose 
bricks, and a bed of leaves or litter should be sweetened as advised in a 
former calendar and placed so that the heat about the pots will not at 
any time exceed a temperature of 70° to 75°, and at the commence¬ 
ment 65°. 'J'he canes should be suspended over the fermenting materials 
in a horizontal position to insure a regular break. Syringe three times a 
day, keeping every part of the house moist by sprinkling in bright 
weather. In order to insure regularity of starting Bomewhat higher tem¬ 
perature is necessary at this than later in the season— 50° to 55° at night 
and 60° to 65° by day is not too high to begin with. Those planted out 
should have the inside border thoroughly soaked with water at a tempe¬ 
rature of 90° ; and in the case of weakly Vines a soaking of tepid liquid 
manure is beneficial, alike from enriching the soil as from the food sup¬ 
plied being conducive of a good break. The border or floor of the house 
should be covered with leaves and litter in a state of fermentation, occa¬ 
sionally turning the material and adding fresh. The ammonia-charged 
atmosphere is very beneficial to the Vines, and it makes a considerable 
difference in the fuel used. The outside border must have a covering of 
leaves, litter, or fern sloping from the house outwards, and be covered 
with shutters, tarpaulin, or thatch, so as to throw off the rain or snow. 
Fermenting material is not indispensable, nor is bottom heat for those in 
pots ; but it accelerates forcing operations considerably, and is a great aid 
in maintaining a moist geniil atmosphere. 
Vines for Starting in December .—The house should be prepared 
without delay for a start. Give the Vines early and complete rest, 
nothing contributing so much to this as pruning. In pruning two eyes 
are ample for affording useful bunches, but if the Vines are wanted to 
give large bunches longer pruning may be practised, also when the eyes 
at the base of the shoots are not plump ; but what is gained in size of 
bunch is lost in compactness, size of berry, and high finish. Large 
bunches are generally loose, uneven in size of berry, and do not finish 
satisfactorily. The Vines should be stripped of the loose bark, and be 
washed with softsoap and warm water. A solution 4 ozs. to the gallon 
is strong enough, and if there is not any scale or mealy bug it will be all 
that is necessary. If, however, there has been any scale or mealy bug a 
dressing of some insecticide must follow, and it should be repeated before 
the Vines are started. The woodwork must be thoroughly cleansed, and 
the walls limewashed. The surface soil should be removed down to the 
roots and fresh lumpy loam supplied, with some half-inoh bones—about 
a twentieth, and a similar proportion of wood ashes. Keep the house 
cool, admitting air freely except when frost prevails. 
Houses of Ripe Grapes .—Remove dead and decayed foliage from the 
Vines where ripe Grapes are hanging, and look over the bunches fre¬ 
quently for the removal of decayed berries. A temperature of about SO* 
artificially will be the most suitable, losing no opportunity of admitting- 
air when the days are fine, turning on the heat so as to cause a gentle 
warmth in the pipes, and so insure a circulation of air and the expelling 
of damp, turning off the heat at midday or soon after, so as to allow the 
pipes to cool, and the temperature at night not kept above 50° or even less 
on cold nights. The fault of a low night temperature is that the succeed¬ 
ing day being bright, and the heat not being turned on in good time, the 
sun heats the atmosphere much quicker than the Grapes, and any moisture 
in the atmosphere is condensed on the berries, and which can only be 
avoided by turning on the heat and admitting air early. In dull damp 
weather it will be necessary to keep a gentle warmth in the pipes, but the 
house closed, in which case the moisture will be condensed on the glass 
instead of the Grapes. 
Ripening the Wood .—Any Vines not yet hard and brown in the wood 
should be kept closely stopped, fire heat being still applied accompanied 
with free ventilation. The laterals should by degrees be brought down to 
the principal buds, which will have a tendency to cause rest, especially if 
air is freely admitted at night, the house being kept rather warm, but nit 
close, by day, as that would have a tendency to induce growth. 
Cucumbers. —Maintain a temperature of 70°, falling 5° on cold 
nights, 70° by 75° by day, artificially, advancing to 80° and 85° with sun 
heat. Admit a little air at the top of the house whenever the weather is 
favourable, but it must be done without lowering the temperature, it being 
better to shut off the top heat for an hour or two when the sun is power¬ 
ful than admit air when the wind is very cold. Except on very fine days 
the syringe should be laid aside, using it chiefly for damping the paths, 
walls, and other surfaces in the morning and afternoon in warm bright 
weather, keeping the evaporation troughs filled with liquid manure. The 
water given to the roots must be of the same temperature as the house, as 
also must the soil that is used for covering the roots. 
The autumn fruiters being now in full bearing must not be over¬ 
cropped, therefore remove the fruit when it attains a useable size, also all 
deformed fruit. Examine the plants at least once a week for the removal 
of bad leaves, and for stopping and cutting away the superfluous growths. 
Let the winter fruiters advance well up the trellis before stopping them, 
training the side growths right and left of the stem, and not too closely, 
so as to insure well developed foliage. Allow few or no male blossoms, 
but remove them with tendrils as they appear, and add fresh warmed 
soil as often as the roots have fairly covered the surface of the bed. 
Pines. —Liberal ventilation should be afforded to houses or pits con¬ 
taining young plants whenever the weather is favourable, and avoid too 
much moisture, as over-damping, keeping the houses constantly saturated, 
is more injurious than otherwise. Water will not now be often required, 
yet the plants should be examined every week or ten days, watering such 
as require it, as too great dryness is very pernicious, causing a stunted 
growth, which is not easily if ever made free. In the fruiting department 
lose no opportunity of closing the house at 85°, keeping the night 
temperature at 70°, or a few degrees l -ss in cold weather. Remove all 
the superfluous suckers, retaining one only, the best on each plant. 
Suckers that appear on successional plants before the fruit is visible 
should be removed, except an increase of stock is urgent, and then the 
fruit is more or less sacrificed to the suckers. 
At this time of the year it is usual to make new beds and prepare 
them for the young plants. Tan is the best material, retaining its heat 
longer than any other. In forming beds of it place lightly together. Oak 
or Beech leaves are a good substitute for tan, which should now be col¬ 
lected and as dry as possible. In forming beds of leaves they should be 
firmly preserved, so that they may not sink much, and also to regulate 
the heat, and preventing it from becoming too violent and soon spent. 
PI,ANT HOUSES. 
Epiphyllums .—Plants that have their flower buds in a forward state 
are very effective, when in bloom, t r anged with Adiantum cuneatum. 
