414 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 4, 1886. 
Piince Alfred, Fair Maid of Guernsey, &c. Belle Paule has done well 
here, all the growers having been able to set crown buds. I have one 
plant with three fair sized crown blooms three parts expanded and two 
plants with a number of terminal buds, but not suitable for show purp ses. 
■Only two plants of incurved sorts with me show scaly centres. These 
were set early in August, all the rest were not set until after 1st September 
and have perfect centres, though most are only of moderate size.—T. P., 
JJlonmel. 
SULPHIDE OF POTASSIUM FOR MILDEW. 
This preparation, as made especially for destroying mildew 
on Roses, was strongly recommended last winter, and 1 have 
been hoping that some of those rosarians who have made notes 
in the Journal on the past season would give us their opinions 
on its use. None such, however, having appeared, I venture to 
give my own experience. 
I purchased a Is. bottle from the firm recommended, but 
as this makes 32 gallons of solution, it ought to suffice as a 
sample. I made the solution of the required strength, and applied 
the whole of it at different times by syringing, sponging, and 
•dipping. I am happy to say I believe it will destroy mildew, but 
am not prepared to recommend it. It is, I think, in one of 
Dickens’ works that a Cheap Jack is represented as selling an 
insect-destroying powder On a purchaser inquiring how it was 
to be used, he was told that the F sharp or B flat was to be 
■caught and held between the finger and thumb of the left hand 
in such a position as to force its mouth open, and that then a 
few grains of the powder were to be put down its throat, which 
would presently cause the insect to expire Now, sulphide of 
potassium is not so bad as that, but I did find a difficulty in the 
application of it. Those preparations for mildew which have 
softsoap in them may be induced to remain on the plant, but 
there being no such soapy or greasy matter in the solution of 
sulphide of potassium, it runs off the leaves like water off a duck’s 
back. Possibly spraying it might result in its remaining better 
■on the leaves, but the solution stains badly, and you could not 
spray it where any blooms were opening. 
A most serious objection, also, is its horrible smell. Mr. 
Fish, in the “ Rosarian’s Year Book,” objects to “compounds 
of paraffin and sulphur as simply abominably incongruous among 
fragrant Roses.” What must he have thought of the sulphide 
of potassium he there recommends when he came to try it? 
With these two strong objections against it, I could not find any 
point about it better than any other preparation, except, perhaps, 
that it can be prepared rather more quickly and easily. I do not 
find that it or any other remedy will prevent mildew coming 
again as bad as ever even in two or three days if there his been 
rain in the interval. It is a great business to dip every shoot; 
the stiff ones cannot be dipped. Nothing but dipping or spray¬ 
ing will reach the under sides of the leaves where the mildew is 
worst, and spraying will not do when the Roses are in bloom. 
Let us have a gold medal, or a gold cup for the matter of 
that, at the next National Rose Show for a really efficacious 
destroyer and preventive of mildew. It will be more valuable 
than any new Rose.— W. R. Raillem. 
METHYLATED SPIRITS v. INSECTS. 
On different occasions I have received plants infested with mealy 
bug, scale, and woolly aphides, but at the present time my plants are free 
from them. I keep a bottle of methylated spirit and a good sized camel 
hair brush, frequently examining all plants for some time after their 
arrival, and if any vermin are detected I give a thorough dressing of the 
spirit, which dries very rapidly and destroys the enemies and their eggs. 
About two years since I bought a dozen choice Cacti, which unfortunately 
were all infested with mealy bug, but by constant dressings, especially 
into the joints where the eggs were deposited, the bugs were all destroyed, 
and the sickly plants soon assumed a healthy appearance. Bouvardias 
are subject to scale, but the pests soon relax their hold upon the plants, 
and can be observed after a good dressing dried up on the brush. The 
spirit is used at its full strength, and I have never found it injure a plant, 
although I have even applied it to Cinerarias to destroy mildew, which it 
has successfully accomplished.—W. G., Mmdale, Sutton. 
CARNATION SOUVENIR DE LA MALMAISON. 
This beautiful Clove is being grown extensively in some establish¬ 
ments, and as a few words on the subject may be of service to intending 
cultivators I have forwarded some remarks for the readers of the Journal. 
I he plants should be layered about the beginning of August, or as soon 
after flowering as possibie. Devote a frame to the purpose if possible ; 
but if not they can be layered outside. In either case use good leaf 
soil and sand liberally to layer them in, which will cause them to lift with 
good balls of soil. If layered in a frame, a slight shading will be useful 
for a day or two, and if well attended to as regards water they will soon 
be rooted. In layering the old plants should be carefully turned out of 
the pots, and planted firmly in the bed, or if the pots can be spared for the 
three or four weeks the layers take to root, they would be better plunged, 
which would prevent any disturbance of the roots. In three or four 
weeks’ time from layering they will be ready for placing in 7 and 8-inch 
po s. See that all the pots are thoroughly clean and Tvell drained, pot 
moderately firm ; they may then be well watered and stood in a cool 
house or frame. The soil should be light—say three parts loam, one of 
leaf mould, one of peat, one of dried cow dung, a good addition of sand 
and charcoal, and a small quantity of soot. 
The twelve-monthf-old plants that are intended to be grown on should 
have all loose soil taken off them, and if possible the ball reduced a little, 
and given a slight shift, after which their treatment will be the same as 
the younger plants. They are rather subject to attacks of green fly, and 
should be fumigated occasionally. The house or frame in which they are 
placed must never be kept close, except in frosty weather, when frost 
must be excluded. 
Careful watering is necessary, as a plant overwatered, or not supplied 
with sufficient, soon shows the neglect by turning yellow, and no after 
care will restore it to health. The two-year-old plants certainly produce 
a great quantity of flowers, a well-grown two-year-old plant carrying from 
sixty to seventy useful flowers, but for size and quality the young plants 
produce the best. 
As soon as the spikes begin to rise they shou'd be neatly staked, and 
the pots being by that time getting full of roots the plants should be 
assisted with a little liquid manure once or twice a week, giving it oftener 
as the plants require more water. To some this may appear too much 
trouble to spend on Carnations, but taking into consideration their fine 
effect when in full flower, their usefulness for general decorative purposes, 
and also that at the time of their flowering many people have houses un¬ 
occupied, any extra trouble is well repaid by their great beauty and 
sweetness.—J. 
MUSTARD AND CRESS. 
Me. L. Castle's account of the Mustard and Cress trade in your 
issue of October 14th, is a wonderful example of what can be done with 
so simple an article. Perhaps the most astonishing part of the business 
is the substantial balance in favour of the grower, when the heavy items 
of expense are placed against the very low price received for the produce. 
The production of Mustard and Cress by the vanload for market with 
special convenience, and the supply of a private family when no special 
provision is made, are two very different things. I have, for the last 
few years, had to produce a daily supply throughout the year, and it may 
be of service to some if I describe how we do so during the winter 
months. We grow it in shallow boxes, 2 feet by 1 foot, and to have a 
constant supply seven boxes are required. A box of each is sown every 
week. As Cress takes a week longer to grow than Mustard, four boxes 
are necessary to keep up the succession instead of three as for Mustard. 
The soil generally used is old waste potting soil from under the potting 
bench, with which is mixed nearly an equal quantity of fresh but slightly 
dried horse droppings. The soil is made moderately firm and smooth on 
the surface, is then soaked with liquid manure from the stable tank, to 
which has been added warm water sufficient to make it lukewarm. The 
seed is then sprinkled on the top but not covered with soil. The boxes 
are then placed where there is a little warmth from pipes, and covered over 
with a sheet of thick brown paper. In three or four days the seed will 
have germinated, when the paper must be removed, and when the seed- 
leaves assume a green colour the boxes must be moved to a light airy 
place near the glass. In about ten days the Mustard leaves will be fully 
developed and fit for use. Two points here are of importance. Thoroughly 
soak the soil in the boxes before sowing the seeds, and stand them on a 
moist base it possible, so that they require no more water while it is 
growing. Avoid flabby leaf mould in the soil, as it is apt to “ lift” with 
the young plants and is difficult to wash out of it, and never cover the 
seeds with any soil if you would avoid “grit,” so objectionable in the 
salad bowl.—A Working Gardener. 
LAYATERA ARBOREA VARIEGATA. 
Being the discoverer of the above-named plant, I was very much 
pleased to read Mr. Record’s note, p. 371, and to learn that it appears to 
be gaining favour with many cultivators. 
My object in now writing is to advise anyone who may have well- 
grown plants from 2 to 4 feet high to lilt and pot a few of them. Much 
depends on the texture of the soil as to their lifting well or badly. If, 
however, they are cut round with a sharp spade and loosened, then the 
balls made firm by treading and allowed to remain for a fortnight, there 
will be no difficulty in getting them safely into pots. After potting they 
should have a good soaking of water, and they may stand out until 
winterly weather sets in, at which time an unheated Peach house will 
afford sufficient protection. Some time in April a portion of the plants 
thus treated may be planted out in suitable positions, a few may be kept 
in their pots for the conservatory. 
This plant a tains its highest degree of beauty from the time growth 
commences in the spring until after blooming. The shoot you figured in 
the Journal, vol. ii., p. 467, is an excellent representation of this spring 
growth. The beauty cf the plant from which it was taken is still fresh 
in my memory. It would appear from Mr. Record’s note that some are 
taking a good deal of trouble with it. With me the difficulty is to keep 
it in moderate numbers, hundreds have fallen under the Dutch hoe during 
the past summer. Mr. R’cord is right with r gard to soil influeniin • f e 
