462 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 18, 1886. 
pruned back ; the trusses of bloom will not be so large as from young 
■vigorous plants, but they will be of moderate size and numerous, and 
therefore equally effective for various decorative purposes. For autumn, 
winter, and spring flower no variety surpasses White Lady. Young 
plants in 3-inch pots should have their shoots pinched at once, or as soon 
as they are ready, and must occupy a light position where a temperature 
of 50° can be maintained. 
Mignonette .— Some of the most forward plants that are showing 
flowers must be allowed to develops to form a succession to those already 
in full beauty. The remainder, that are trained either as standards or 
pyramids, should be tied to the trellis from time to time and all flowers 
removed as they appear. A little artificial manure applied to the surface 
of the soil will keep their roots active and assist in the production of 
dwarf sturdy growth. These plants must not be kept in a close confined 
atmosphere, or fine spikes of bloom cannot be secured, for they will grow 
too quickly, and the shoots will be weak and incapable of producing such 
spikes as are desired. Plenty of air must be admitted to successional 
plant*, and the whole watered carefully, at the same time never allowing 
the plants to suffer by an insufficient supply. 
Tea Roses .—Those in pots that had broken into new growth and were 
housed towards the close of September should now be yielding a bountiful 
supply of delicate buds. Up to the present time these have been kept 
cool, if previous directions have been attended to, but from the present 
time keep the ventilators closed to prevent the admission of cold draughts. 
These, if allowed to strike upon their tender foliage, will quickly result 
in an attack of mildew. The temperature from the present time should 
also be prevented from falling below 60° at night; it may safely rise 5° 
higher on all mild occasions. This will keep the plants steadily growing 
and producing buds. These plants will yield a welcome supply until 
Christmas, when they should enjoy a short rest, and they will flower 
freely enough in spring. Other plants may be seleoted that have made 
1 or 2 inches of new growth. These, if brought on steadily, will continue 
the supply of blooms into the spring. Those planted out for yielding a 
supply of flowers will be on the move if the house in which they are 
growing has been kept moderately close during the past fortnight. If 
the blooms from these are wanted by Christmas, beep the house perfectly 
close and maintain the same temperature as advised above. Syringe the 
plants well during the morning of fine days with a weak solution of 
softsoap. None of the plants, whether planted out or grown in pots, 
should be allowed to suffer by the want of water at their roots. On the 
other hand they must not be overwatered, and that applied must be of 
the same temperature as the house, or a few degrees warmer. If aphides 
appsar fumigate lightly at once with tobacco, or syringe the plants with 
a weak solution of Fir tree oil. 
Hybrid Perpetuals intended for very early flowering may now be 
pruned back and sheltered in a cold frame or in a Peach house or vinery 
at rest. The remainder of the stock may Btill be kept outside. 
Greenhouse Rhododendrons .— These must not be stood upon dry 
shelves or staging, for such treatment is detrimental to the well-being 
of these plants. They should be kept perfectly cool, and stood upon some 
moisture-holding material, or they will be certain to lose a good per¬ 
centage of foliage, and probably attacked with thrips, which quickly 
injures them. They must also be kept in a moderately moist state at 
their roots, for it is contrary to their nature to be kept dry. Dryness at 
their roots will soon result in the ruin of the plants, for their fine silk-like 
roots soon wither and die. The soil should be kept in an intermediate 
state for moisture as near as possible. 
Helleborus niger .—Good clumps may now be lifted and placed in pots 
or boxes and sheltered in a cool house for a few weeks before pushing 
them into bloom. This is rather a ruinous system, for Hellebores do not 
like disturbing, and those lifted and forced will take two or three years 
before they are thoroughly recovered. The best plan is to cover the 
clumps where they are growing with handlights or a frame. The first 
system has been given up, and this adopted for some years with much 
better results. After the plants are covered the frame or handlights are 
not ventilated ; in fact the lights are only opened to gather the flowers. 
Good clumps yield a supply of pure white blooms with good stems for a 
long period. After the whole of the blooms are gathered the lights are 
tilted and left in this condition until genial weather in spring, when the 
frames or handlights are removed. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 
Breaking up the Beds .—It is not often that the summer occupants of 
the flower beds have of necessity to be removed before they are dis¬ 
figured by frosts ; yet this is what we are doiog this season, ia order that 
the beds may be replanted for the winter. If delayed any longer the 
chances are very wet or very cold weather may seriously impede the work ; 
and besides, the Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots, Silenes, and other biennials 
intended for the spring display are growing much too strongly and trans¬ 
planting will check this, thereby rendering them hardier. If it can 
possibly be avoided the work of preparing and replanting the beds should 
not be d"ne in wet weather, and on no account ought they to be dug long 
before they are replanted, as one heavy rain would completely saturate the 
newly loosened soil, aud plants do not thrive when puddled in. We 
rarely dig our beds, but simply clear over the surface and replant at once. 
Thus treated the beds are warmer, because drier, and the frost a are less 
likely to heave the plants out of the ground. Spring-flowering plants are 
bad exhausters of the soil, but in few cases is it advisable to attempt 
manuring tte beds at the present time, as this can be done mote cleanly 
and effectually just prior to putting out the summer bedding plants. 
Replanting the Beds .—In many gardens much more is seen by the 
propiietors and their friends of the winter bedding than of the summer, 
and for this reason alone extra pains should be taken to complete it in as 
effective a manner as materials at hand will permit. Various nurserymen 
supply nearly or quite everything that is suitable, but if we except bulbs, 
the bulk of the plants used are best prepared on the spot, drawing on the 
nurseryman for what may be required to make good deficiencies. Masses 
of Wallflowers in one colour only, edged with Myosotis, Silenes, Daisies, 
or Violas, are very effective, and for the smaller beds two distinct kinds of 
plants, such as Alyssum saxatile in the centre, with an edging of Silene 
compacta; Saponaria calabrica edged with Arabia mollis; Collinsia 
bicolor edged with Silenes; Limnanthes Douglassi edged with red 
Daisies; Myosotis dissitiflora edged with common Primroses; blue 
Violas edged with white Daisies; and Silene pendula edged with 
Golden Pyrethrum. Various other combinations will suggest themselves 
to intelligent planters, but the more simple the arrangements the more 
showy and effective are the beds when in flower. None of the plants 
makes much progress after being placed out, and for this reason they 
ought to be disposed rather thickly, the beds being really covered without 
actual crowding. They ought also to be planted firmly, especially if the 
state of the ground is at all loose and dry. Where various hardy plants 
are included with the summer bedding plants these need not be disturbed, 
the beds being planted to harmonise with these. Carpet beds having a 
groundwork of hardy trailing plants may have the figures filled in with 
other hardy plants, such as Golden Pyrethrum, Ajuga reptans, small 
selected Beet, Silene compacta, red and white Daisies, and Primroses ; 
neat little Conifers, such as Cupressus erecta viridis, C. Lawsoniana alba 
spica nana, Biota aurea, Retinospora obtusa nana aurea, R. plumosa 
argentea and aurea, Thuia occidentalis aurea, as well as neat plants of 
Yucca filamentosa and recurva, and clumps of Iris foetidissima variegata, 
akming good ‘‘ dot ” plants. 
HINTS TO BEE-KEEPERS. 
Whether bees consume more food in a low temperature or 
a high one during winter is a subject that has engaged the 
attention of bee-keepers for a long time, but without any 
satisfactory result. The subject is one of importance, but 
for the present I do not intend to discuss it at much length. 
I simply wish to impress bee-keepers with the fact that, owing 
to the very mild October, bees were continually on the wing 
during the daytime, consequently much food was con¬ 
sumed, and at the present moment many hives of bees that 
were considered to be of sufficient weight to stand the winter 
during September are almost in want, and unless fed now 
will assuredly succumb before the new year. It will there¬ 
fore be wise for bee-keepers to see to the state of their hives 
before it is too late. During the whole of my bee-keeping 
life I have never before known so much food to be consumed 
during October as this year, especially where the bees were 
numerous. In one strong hive of Syrians I had occasion to 
manipulate the other day, there was not more than three 
pounds of honey, yet it had in it during August not less than 
forty pounds, while all other strong hives are reduced in pro¬ 
portion, and the nows is the same from every quarter. If 
bees could be kept quiet at a temperature of 55°, less food 
would be consumed ; but it is the activity of the bees during- 
mild weather that causes them to consume so much or more 
than when quiet at a low temperature, when in reality it is 
then that most food is required to sustain life. 
Syrian bees have been engaging my attention a good deal 
during the past week. Their eagerness to work together, 
with their peculiar habits, are both alike interesting to me. 
Some years ago I joined some bees of a different breed to a 
handful of Cyprians ; the latter at once attacked the others 
and killed every one, but not until three weeks had elapsed 
did they accomplish their murderous design. 
Owing to a number of queens being unfertilised I was- 
under the necessity of joining the surplus bees to the best 
advantage I could. The first one was a hive of Syrians of 
full strength, which, after the usual precautions, except 
scenting, which, owing to its queenless state, I did not deem 
advisable, I joined to a fair quantity of Carniolians—success¬ 
fully I thought—and for two days no disturbance took place. 
After that time the Syrians attacked the Carniolians in a 
deliberate manner, killing them slowly but surely. It is now 
a week since they were joined, and they are still killing. A 
