November 18, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
463 
Becond one I attempted, but the Carniolians in this case made 
the attack, and I could not induce the Syrians to remain in¬ 
side along with their antagonists. A third one, both Syrians, 
joined peaceably, and remain so. A fourth one is similar, but 
a striking peculiarity with these bees is that, although they 
sometimes return to their old site, the moment they find 
their old hive closed agamst them they return at once to their 
new hive, and do not cluster at the entrance as other varieties 
do. This peculiarity in the Syrians is exemplified and 
amusing when they are engaged in a robbing expedition. If 
shut out of their own hive they immediately return with their 
booty to the hive it was taken from, thereafter start a 
marauding expedition 'on some other hive, but shortly after 
their own hive is opened they fly back to it with their 
spoil. 
Moving bees short distances is sometimes necessary, but 
this should never be attempted unless on a fine day when 
the bees are abroad, and they should not be moved forward, 
but always backward. The reason for this is, that when 
moved forward the bees fly over the hive, but when moved 
backward the bees flying to the old site, and their heads being 
directed towards their hive, soon discover it. When the hive 
is not in position to allow the proper shift to be made, turn 
the hive round gradually on fine days before moving. 
Outside cases would be unfinished without a corner bead 
or square block of wood chamfered on the outer corner, 
which should be as thick as the two lining boards. When 
the boards are accurately cut, and the corner piece nailed 
firmly, it gives a complete finish and fine appearance tc the 
whole. The above was omitted in my description of an 
outside case in the number for October 28th. Amongst 
my outside cases I have one with hive, minus stand of 
iron for roof (the latter may be had from 6d. to 9d.), and 
fromes, made from two old soap boxes which cost me only 
4d., and about Id. for nails. To those who have a hanker¬ 
ing after old boxes to make hives, in addition to these 
soap boxes, some Orange boxes answer the purpose 
well. 
Feeders, too, may be had both cheap and serviceable. 
A good underfeeder may be had for a few pence. The tray 
or trough to be pushed in beneath the perforated zinc may 
be of any length or width to suit the hive and fancy of the 
bee-keeper, but not more than three-eighths of an inch deep. 
To support this tray a little bracket is nailed inside, and at 
the back of the stand, as it is best to feed where the bees 
do not annoy you, and to support it outside a piece of tin 
or zinc is so bent as to form another bracket to be suspended 
at the back underneath the tray; two round holes are punched 
in the back, and running upward from them oblong holes, so 
that the round holes admit the heads of screws nearly flush 
with the wood, then when the bracket is pushed over these 
it slides down, and is held in its place by screw-heads. 
To complete this feeder an old mustard or other tin or 
bottle answers the purpose well. To make it, pierce a hole 
in the lid so that a fair sized marble will go nearly through 
without doing so, then solder on two pieces of tin crosswise 
and U shaped to form a cage to keep the marble in its place, 
and of sufficient depth to let it fall out of the way when the tin 
is being filled, after which solder all tight. Now a little ring 
of tin, one-eighth of an inch]deep, must be soldered round the 
orifice, or the tin must be let down the same distance, so that 
the outlet will be below the upper edge of the tray and prevent 
the syrup overflowing. The tin must be so placed that none 
of the syrup is exposed; there are different ways of doing 
that which will suggest itself to the bee-keeper. If a bottle 
is used, put a bung of wood in the mouth, having a hole on 
the same principle as tin, and two wires crosswise will keep 
the marble or ball in its place; now take a block of wood, 
having a hole sufficient in size to let the bottle neck pass 
one eighth of an inch beyond the level, place this block 
upon the projecting part of the tray, fill your bottle, and let 
down; the moment the marble touches the bottom the syrup 
flows.—A Lanakkshire Bee keeper. 
THE COTTAGER’S STRAW SKEP—HOW TO GET 
HONEY FROM IT. 
The next question is that of sections. These are now very cheap, 
some firms advertising them as low as 25s. per 1000. They, of course, 
are a little more than that in smaller quantities ; but when there are two 
or three cottagers who can lay their heads together and get a 500 case or 
a 1000 case between them it is worth doing so, even if they do not 
require them all in one season. They will keep. Those who are members 
of county bee-keepers’ associations will find the means of getting them 
in small quantities through that medium with advantage. And tbe same 
may be said of comb-foundation, the use of which is a necessary part of 
the system. Having got sections and foundation, the next thing is to 
fold them and fix the foundation in them. There are various ways of 
accomplishing this, but the following simple plan will answer the cottager’s 
purpose :—Take a piece of 1-inch deal, 3i inches wide, and cut it into 
3J-inch lengths, cutting them perfectly square. The upper side should 
be dressed quite smooth and one of the corners chamfered off, as shown 
at a, fig. G5. Nail these—there should be two or three of them—on to 
two narrow pieces of wood, as shown, leaving about three-quarters of an 
inch distance between them. 
Comb-foundation is made in sheets 12 inches by 8 inches. Sometimes 
these sheets will come to hand cut into two, lengthwise. Cut these down 
the centre again, using a straight-edge and a sharp-pointed knife, the 
latter to be pressed very lightly. Next cut these into triangle-shaped 
pieces about 2 inches wide at the base, and put them on a plate ready for 
use. Place the poker in the fire and get hot; arrange your sections, 
comb-foundation, and boxes conveniently. Take the sections, gently 
bind each corner and fit the dovetail ends together, and press them home 
with the thumbs. Place each on the blocks as it is done, with the dove¬ 
tail corners all one way, as at b. Take the hot poker from the fire, prop it 
up in a convenient position, place your thumb of the left hand on the 
top side of the section at c, grasp the lath under the block and hold it 
in a slanting direction ; take a piece of foundation between the forefinger 
and thumb of the right hand, just touch the hot poker with it, and at 
once place it in position as at d, pressing it against the section. By the 
time the last one is thus fixed the first will be ready to lift off and be 
placed in the boxes, as shown at fig. 66, with a tin separator (a, fig. 66), 
about 3£ inches wide between each. Having put in the last two place in 
front of them a piece of glass (5 fig. 66) of a similar size, wedge all up 
tight, and it is ready for placing on the hive. This getting boxes and 
sections ready should be a winter’s job ; it should not be left till they are 
wanted, and if I had written these notes when I was myself busy with 
them they would, perhaps, be more in season. However, there is still a 
few weeks in which to make preparation. Some advise sections to be 
filled with comb-foundation. I do not approve of that. No doubt it is 
a saving to the bees and trade for the makers, but it is not an acquisition 
when placed on the breakfast table. A knife does not cut it so freely as 
it does the comb, and consequently the lower side of the honey gets all 
crushed ; the honey runs out into the dish, giving it anything but an 
attractive appearance, and the pieces of foundation stick in your teeth, 
which most people do not like.—A Cottage Bee-keeper. 
ABOVE OR UNDER?—WHERE TO PLACE THE 
EMPTY SUPER. 
There are two distinct methods of “ tiering up ” supers. Each 
may be used occasionally with more advantage than the other, but 
it requires no superficial knowledge of localities, the usual length 
of the honey flow, and the time of its occurrence, on the part of 
