November 25, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
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COMING EVENTS 
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Birmingham Chrysanthemum Show (second day). 
Sale of Orchids in the Cheapside Rooms. 
1st Sunday in Advent. 
S.ile of Bulbs at Mr. Stevens's Rooms. 
EPIPHYLLUMS. 
^NLY a few years ago these were popular plants 
for winter decoration, but fashion and the 
demand for abundance of flowers suitable for 
cutting has left them practically unrecognised. 
This is to be regretted, for no more effective 
plant than the Epiphyllum when profusely flowered 
can be grown. In private establishments their 
attractions have not generally been seen to ad¬ 
vantage, they have been kept too long until their 
heads or branches have become heavy, and they need 
liberal support to prevent breaking. The beauty of such 
specimens is destroyed, for they cannot be used in any arrange¬ 
ment or group when the object is to present a telling effect. 
Epiphyllums can, however, be grown to present a very 
pleasing and picturesque appearance when grouped suitably 
with other plants. To accomplish this result old plants that 
require much support must be discarded, and young ones 
grown for the purpose. It may not perhaps b9 known that 
they can be grown in about twelve months with heads 1 foot 
to 18 inches across as easily as a Croton, Poinsettia, Plum¬ 
bago, or a Primula. To keep on hand a creditable stock of Epi¬ 
phyllums most suitable for decorative purposes,they should not 
be retained more than three years, two years being better for 
the purpose in view; for if they are retained longer the heads 
become large and heavy, the pots are too large for many 
purposes, and if the roots are confined they have a checked, 
stunted appearance. One great objection to keeping large 
or old plants is the amount of room they occupy the whole 
year, which is not the case with young ones grown on 
annually or every second year. The well-grown shapely 
specimens produced by the trade to meet the demand a few 
years ago are very similar to the plants, perhaps scarcely bo 
large, that I advise to be grown as the most suitable for the 
various forms of decoration. 
The first matter of importance in raising a quantity of 
these plants is the stock upon which they are worked. The 
one used is Pereskia aculeata, but for plants with tall stems 
P. Bleo is said to be the most suitable on account of its 
stronger growth. Epiphyllums with tall stems are not, as a 
rule, so ornamental as those about 9 inches or 1 foot above the 
surfaco of the soil; a few tall plants can occasionally be 
utilised in grouping with admirable effect, but on the whole 
they are less serviceable than those on shorter stems. Many 
strike the cuttings of Pereskia, and then grow them on in 
pots until they are strong enough for grafting ; but the best 
system in the preparation of Btocks is to plant a vigorous 
young Pereskia in the corner of a warm house, where the 
night temperature will not fall below 60°. It will grow in 
any ordinary soil, and just to show that it is not particular 
in this respect, it may be stated that our stock plant is 
growing amongst cocoa nut fibre refuse. "When planted out 
it should be trained upright until it reaches a wire, and then 
under the roof of the house until it attains some yards in 
length, which it will do in a very short time after it is once 
established. The greater the length the growth is allowed to 
the thicker will be the stem. As the plant grows all 
No. 335. — Vol. XIII., Third Series. 
side shoots should be carefully removed. When it has 
extended about 14 feet it will make a dozen stout stocks that 
will be 9 inches above the surface of the soil, these and others 
1 foot in length are of a very useful size. This shoot should 
be cut into lengths according to the length of stock required, 
allowing from 2 to 8 inches for inserting into the soil. When 
cut into lengths every eye from the axil of the leaves should 
be carefully removed, and the cuttings inserted in sandy soil 
in 8-inch pots. Let the leaves remain upon these stocks or cut¬ 
tings. Split the top of the stock down the centre, and insert 
the scion at once, the scion consisting of a strong piece of 
Epiphyllum that will branch three ways if possible; small 
pieces with one or two joints should not be used. Bemove 
the bark on each side of the scion, just the width of the stock, 
and then carefully insert it, making the two secure with 
matting. If the scion have a tendency to slip out when 
tying it, place a small pin through it and the stock; with care 
they can be tied without. A good watering should be given, 
and the pots stood or plunged in a close propagating frame. 
If shaded from the sun in a close moist frame the stock will 
be thoroughly rooted, and the scion and stock united in three 
w<eks, when they may be gradually exposed in any warm 
house. 
The best time for grafting is early in the spring or 
autumn ; if done during the former season the plants, if 
grown on rapidly, will now average 1 foot across the heads. 
These plants will have to be well ripened after October, and 
will be later coming into flower than those worked in early 
autumn. Those grafted during the latter season will have 
filled the 3-inch pots with roots by spring, ready for placing 
in others 2 or 3 inches larger. In these fine heads 18 inches 
in diameter will be developed, and by Not ember the following 
year they will be studded with flower buds. If two dozen 
plants are raised annually half the number should be grafted 
in autumn, and the others in spring. This will insure two 
sizes, and the plants will come into bloom at different 
times, thus naturally forming a succession. The Pereskia 
when once established and cut down in autumn for stocks 
will start again vigorously into growth, and produce equally 
good wood for stocks in the spring. 
When plants with large stems are required, the best plan 
perhaps is to strike cuttings and then grow them singly 
in pots. Be-pot the stocks from time to time as they 
require root room until they are sufficiently strong for 
grafting at the desired height. The top portion can be cut 
into lengths for shorter stems. 
Epiphyllums are very beautiful in baskets, and the best 
method of producing them is to insert four strong cuttings 
in a 5-inch pot, grafting them when inserted the same as 
advised for those placed into 3 inch pots. The length of these 
cuttings will entirely depend upon the size of baskets 
employed. The tallest should be in the centre, and the three 
lower ones at equal distances round the sides of the pots. 
Those at the side should be sufficiently long to reach the 
edge of the basket, so that the stock can be secured to it. 
One plant will fill a basket, but four fill it in much less 
time ; in fact, in one season it will be well furnished by this 
method. 
After the plants are worked keep them until the spring 
in a night temperature of 60°, in which progress will be slow, 
but in spring they will commence active growth with increased 
heat and moisture. During the growing season they delight 
in a warm close atmosphere, where they can be shaded from 
strong sun. Our plants grew particularly well last year in a 
house that never had the ventilators open. They must also 
be liberally supplied with water at their roots during the 
growing season. When the soil is kept moist about the 
roots they extend with great rapidity, but when allowed to 
become dry their fine silk-like roots quickly perish. 
A general practice is to pot Epiphyllums with a certain 
amount of lime rubbish in the soil; in fact, many failures 
have arisen from the poor soil given to the plants. Lime 
No. 1991 --Vol. LXXV., Cld Series. 
