504 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 2, 1886. 
a deep fertile soil have no conception of the difficulties of others who have 
to deal with soils only a few inches deep. Probably in more than half 
the gardens here devoted to pleasure grounds the depth of fertile soil 
does not exceed 6 inches, yet Roses may be said to do well, but the soil 
has been deepened by the removal of the red and black hungry sand that 
underlies the surface, fresh soil being added. 
When the soil is light and poor very heavy dressings of decayed manure 
must be added. On such soils Roses require a much greater quantity of 
manure than many people suppose. Heavy tenacious land may be 
rendered sour by the addition of too much manure, but light soils will 
stand almost any quantity. To very poor land nearly one-third of 
manure may be added without doing harm, but the reverse, but on mode¬ 
rately fertile loams about one-seventh will prove ample. Upon the former 
very liberal applications of manure will be needed to grow Brussels 
Sprouts to perfection, and if the amount for them can be estimated no less 
should be used for Roses, but rather more. Soils vary so much in fertility 
and texture that it would be impossible to lay down any hard-and-fast 
rules for applying manure. Rather, however, than incorporate a third of 
manure with the natural soil I should prefer to mix it with equal 
quantities of fibry loam if it could be obtained in the neighbourhood, 
selecting the heaviest I could procure. To this would be added bonemeal 
and half-inch bones at the rate of a 6-inch potful to each barrowful of 
soil, and about one-seventh of manure. However, if this could not be 
done, rather than employ too much manure in the soil when preparing 
the beds, to be washed away by autumn and winter rains into the sub¬ 
soil beyond the reach of the roots, I should prefer to use the bones, a fair 
quantity of manure, and make up the deficiency by mulching in early 
spring with moderately fresh cow manure. To render poor shallow soils 
thoroughly fertile without a certain amount of waste in early autumn is 
more diffi ,'ult than is the case with land of a heavier nature. In light 
soils much of the manure will be washed away before the roots have a 
chance of taking possession of them. I do not like digging in manure on 
light land in autumn, because the loss is great, and how to avoid this I 
have failed to discover when preparing it early for Roses. The Iobs can 
only be made up by heavy mulchings on the surface in spring. 
After the ground has once been rendered fertile manure can be applied 
in spring to the surface in the form of a mulching, and then no waste 
will be occasioned ; but, in spite of the little apparent waste that may 
follow the preparation of the beds at this season, it is more than counter¬ 
balanced by the luxuriant growth of the plants the following season than 
would be the case if the beds and bordeis were made ready later in the 
Season, and planting delayed in consequence.—W. B. 
POTATO TERCENTENARY EXHIBITION AND CONGRESS 
December 1st to 4th. 
To celebrate the third centenary of the introduction of the Potato it 
was proposed early in the present year that the International Show hitherto 
held at the Crystal Palace should be extended, and departments be devoted 
to the literature of Potato historv. Owing to the collapse of the Interna¬ 
tional Show the proposition was for some time in abeyance, but was subse¬ 
quently revived by Mr. W. E. Wood, and a competitive exhibition of Pota¬ 
toes, together with an exhibition of books, engravings, &c,, connected with 
the subject, and a conference on interesting topics relative to this important 
tuber was organised to be held in St. Stephen’s Hall, Westminster. No 
money prizes were offered, and there was only one class, gold, silver, and 
bronze medals constituting the prizes. Each exhibit was to comprise not 
less than six nor more than twelve varieties of Potatoes, and with these 
there were about thirty competitors, the majority showing twelve 
varieties, two dishes of each. The gold medal was awarded to Mr. E. Chop¬ 
ping, Periwinkle Mills, Milton, Sittingbourne, who had even, clean, hand¬ 
some tubers of White Elephant, Chancellor, Reading Russet, Reading Ruby, 
Village Blacksmith, Rufus, Sutton’s Abundance, Purple Perfection, The 
Belle, The Colonel, Adirondack, and Schoolmaster. The silver medal was 
obtained by Mr. Joseph H. Diver, Pitshill, Petworth, for good specimens of 
Washington Hero, International, Mr. Bresee, Vicar of Laleham, White 
Elephant, Snowflake, The Dean, Reading Giant, Adirondack, School¬ 
master, Purple Edgcote, Reading Russet. The bronze medal was adjudged 
to Mr. W. Kerr, Dargavel, Dumfries, N.B., for tubers very close in merit to 
the preceding, and representing White Elephant, Village Blacksmith, 
Eclipse, Adirondack, Chancellor, Queen of the Valley, Schoolmaster, Mr. 
Bresee, Snowdrop, Vicar of Laleham, and International. Two collections 
from Mr. J. Hughes, Eydon Hall, Byfield, and one from Mr. E. S. Wiles, 
Edgcote, Banbury, were highly commended. Non-competing collections 
are contributed by M-sers. Hooper & Co., Covent Garden, who also have an 
Irish Potato spade and a photograph of Ralegh’s house at Youghall, County 
Cork. MM. Vilmorin & Cie., Paris, show a collection of Potatoes, and Mr. 
John Watkins, Pomona Farm, Hereford, has numerous varieties of 
Potatoes. 
The literature department comprises a number of the old Herbals and 
works on geography or the travels of the early navigators, including refer¬ 
ences to the Potai o as it was first observed in America. Old maps, plans, 
photographs, die., are also included, many of a highly interesting character. 
It is announced that papers will be read on various subjects connected with 
the history and culture of the Potato on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, 
to be followed on each occasion by a discussion, that on Friday night being 
specially reserved for a consideration of the railway charges in the convey¬ 
ance of Potatoes to market towns. 
ROSE GLOIRE DE DIJON. 
The majority of your readers know this Rose well, and I need say 
little in introducing it, but I would like to ask many of them if they 
think they grow it in sufficient quantity. I am inclined to think if its 
many excellent qualities are taken into consideration the reply will be in 
the negative, and the present is a good time to consider the matter with 
the view of introducing more. As a long and constant bloomer the 
“ Gloire ” is unique. Its first blossoms open almost as soon in the open 
as they do in a greenhouse. Here on a south wall it begins to bloom early 
in April, and never ceases until November, the large huff blooms being 
both showy and delightfully fragrant. In the latter respect they are not 
surpassed by any other Rose, and it is impossible to have too many of 
them. They are suitable for all kinds of choice decoration, and perhaps 
they are never more pleasing than when a quantity of them are arranged 
by themselves in a dish or glass. In this way they are peculiarly artistic, 
and in drawing rooms or cottage windows, or indeed anywhere, they are 
most attractive. They are never out of place, and a dinner table 
decorated with “ Gloire ” blossoms and leaves and nothing else is 
delightful. 
It is impossible to make a mistake in planting them, as they grow 
freely as climbers on walls, arbours, hedges, against churches, mansions, 
cottages, and in short everywhere, and never fail to make a great deal of 
wood and flower profusely. They succeed, too, as bushes in borders and 
beds, but not so well as they do climbing; and in localities where soil and 
climate are unfavourable to the growth of Roses the “ Gloire ” is the one 
above all others to plant, as it has a fine constitution. The present is a 
good time to plant it, and with a deep rich soil to work in, it will grow 
away freely next spring and bloom throughout the whole summer. Some 
Roses will only grow on a certain stock, and others will barely succeed on 
anything, but my experience of the one in question leads me to say it 
will succeed on any or every kind of stock on which Roses have been 
tried.—J. M. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Forcing Vegetables.— The Rhubarb we recommended to be covered 
up four weeks ago has now produced many fine growths that are now 
be so much valued as in seasons when the Apples are scarce, but for all 
ready for use. As Apples are plentiful with us the Rhubarb may not 
that Rhubarb tarts and Rhubarb cream are delicacies in December. Some 
more roots should be covered. Two or three may be enough to cover at 
once in most cases. A small quantity of hot material will soon ihduce 
growth, and if the heat is decliuing in the manure that was placed on 
some time ago, take it off, mix with a quantity of fresh material, and 
place it back against the box or cask which covers the Rhubarb. The 
first batch of Asparagus is also ready for cutting, and as the roots will 
only give a supply for about a fortnight, others should be put in for 
cutting at Christmas. A bottom heat of 70° or 75° will soon induce 
strong growth. The Seakale does not move so fast as the above two roots, 
and it will be some weeks before the first heads are ready for cutting, but 
as other vegetables are still plentiful we are in no hurry to cut Seakale. 
Sow Mustard and Cress weekly in small quantities. Keep a temperature 
of 70° for French Beans, but they are most difficult to grow at this season, 
and since we f rnnd that Runner Beans salted in September give so much 
satisfaction in December and January, we have almost ceased to force 
Beans in those months. 
Mushrooms. —For some weeks past we have been gathering quantities 
daily from beds in cool sheds. Our first idea of this system was gained 
from Wright’s “ Mushrooms for the Million,” and the plan has answered 
soadmirably that we now practise no other in the winter months. The 
Mushrooms invariably appear within six weeks of the time of spawn¬ 
ing. The beds bear an uncommonly long time, as they are neither 
excited with intense heat nor checked by severe cold, and the quality of 
the Mushrooms is first-rate, as they grow in quite a natural way. Bsds 
may still be formed in any shed or outhouse ; indeed they may be made 
up in succession from now until March. Little beds 4 or 5 feet in length 
and 3 feet in width furnish many dishes, and a succession of small beds 
will be found more satisfactory than a large one, or two formed at long 
intervals. As the weather becomes colder, increase the covering of hay 
on the surface, and during severe frost this may be about 1 foot in 
thickness. Those who grow their Mushrooms in special houses should 
see that a succession is kept up, and the temperature should not exceed 
65°. A very dry atmosphere is not favourable to the growth of 
Mushrooms, and moisture must always be kept in the air in a moderate 
degree. Steam is injurious to them, and should never be created. When 
the beds become so dry on the surface that the Mushrooms cease to 
appear, a watering on the suiface will generally bring a new crop. As 
the water does not penetrate freely, the surface must be sprinkled every 
half hour until it has become quite wet for a few inches down, and the 
water be heated to 85° or 90°. Where woodhee or any other vermin are 
troublesome place down saucers of treacle to trap them. Many cooks are 
particularly fond of “ button ” Mushrooms. This is the term applied t > 
them when quite small and before they have opened, but we do not agree 
with the use of buttons to any great extent, as the Mushrooms become so 
